Front wheel goes off kilter
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Front wheel goes off kilter
Hello Bike Forum folks!
I just purchased a new-to-me 2018 Blix Komfort Prima ebike. I have only ridden the bike a few miles yesterday and today, but both days the front wheel started centered in the fork and then went off-kilter. The first day the wheel got completely loose before I noticed what was going on. Today, I kept checking the wheel and stopped once I saw it was no longer centered in the fork.
Things I have tried so far: tightening the quick release and checking that both centering springs are on the skewer and oriented with the smaller sides facing one another.
For context, I am nervous about going too fast, but live in a hilly area so I end up riding the hydraulic disc brakes a lot. I purchased the bike online and had it packed up by an LBS and shipped to me via FedEx. The front wheel was removed for that journey from CA to WA.
Thanks in advance for helping me to diagnose this problem. I live in the boondocks so it would be great if I could get this sorted out without having to trek to the big city.
Kermit
I just purchased a new-to-me 2018 Blix Komfort Prima ebike. I have only ridden the bike a few miles yesterday and today, but both days the front wheel started centered in the fork and then went off-kilter. The first day the wheel got completely loose before I noticed what was going on. Today, I kept checking the wheel and stopped once I saw it was no longer centered in the fork.
Things I have tried so far: tightening the quick release and checking that both centering springs are on the skewer and oriented with the smaller sides facing one another.
For context, I am nervous about going too fast, but live in a hilly area so I end up riding the hydraulic disc brakes a lot. I purchased the bike online and had it packed up by an LBS and shipped to me via FedEx. The front wheel was removed for that journey from CA to WA.
Thanks in advance for helping me to diagnose this problem. I live in the boondocks so it would be great if I could get this sorted out without having to trek to the big city.
Kermit
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18377 Post(s)
Liked 4,512 Times
in
3,354 Posts
How do you tighten the quick release?
Is it a standard quick release with thumb nut on one end thin spindle, and a lever on the other end?
The lever tightens/loosens the QR. Flip the lever to "OPEN", tighten till you can flip the lever about halfway with minimal tension, then flip it into closed/lock position. I like to tighten mine to about as tight as I can get it, but perhaps am over-tensioning a bit.
Generally people put the lever on the left side for both front and rear, although I like to have my rear on the right because I tow trailers a lot.
When you lock the lever, find a "safe place" for it. A few different methods. May people like the lever to come out just behind the fork, or in the middle of the rear triangle. Or straight back so it can't snag anything.
Is it a standard quick release with thumb nut on one end thin spindle, and a lever on the other end?
The lever tightens/loosens the QR. Flip the lever to "OPEN", tighten till you can flip the lever about halfway with minimal tension, then flip it into closed/lock position. I like to tighten mine to about as tight as I can get it, but perhaps am over-tensioning a bit.
Generally people put the lever on the left side for both front and rear, although I like to have my rear on the right because I tow trailers a lot.
When you lock the lever, find a "safe place" for it. A few different methods. May people like the lever to come out just behind the fork, or in the middle of the rear triangle. Or straight back so it can't snag anything.
Likes For CliffordK:
#3
Droid on a mission
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 1,005
Bikes: Diamondback Wildwood Classic
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 317 Post(s)
Liked 280 Times
in
195 Posts
Also check the faces of the quick-release and thumb nut where it comes against the fork, there should be some serrations to help "lock" it in place, if worn, replace the quick release assembly
__________________
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com
Likes For alcjphil:
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times
in
723 Posts
How do you tighten the quick release?
Is it a standard quick release with thumb nut on one end thin spindle, and a lever on the other end?
The lever tightens/loosens the QR. Flip the lever to "OPEN", tighten till you can flip the lever about halfway with minimal tension, then flip it into closed/lock position. I like to tighten mine to about as tight as I can get it, but perhaps am over-tensioning a bit.
Generally people put the lever on the left side for both front and rear, although I like to have my rear on the right because I tow trailers a lot.
When you lock the lever, find a "safe place" for it. A few different methods. May people like the lever to come out just behind the fork, or in the middle of the rear triangle. Or straight back so it can't snag anything.
Is it a standard quick release with thumb nut on one end thin spindle, and a lever on the other end?
The lever tightens/loosens the QR. Flip the lever to "OPEN", tighten till you can flip the lever about halfway with minimal tension, then flip it into closed/lock position. I like to tighten mine to about as tight as I can get it, but perhaps am over-tensioning a bit.
Generally people put the lever on the left side for both front and rear, although I like to have my rear on the right because I tow trailers a lot.
When you lock the lever, find a "safe place" for it. A few different methods. May people like the lever to come out just behind the fork, or in the middle of the rear triangle. Or straight back so it can't snag anything.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18377 Post(s)
Liked 4,512 Times
in
3,354 Posts
Most new bikes have some kind of a provision to help prevent the front wheel from falling off. But, in general it is not a good idea to ride with a loose front wheel.
If you lose the wheel on a bump while going fast, then you could do significant damage to your bike, as well as risking personal injury.
If you lose the wheel on a bump while going fast, then you could do significant damage to your bike, as well as risking personal injury.
Last edited by CliffordK; 06-19-21 at 11:38 AM.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,092
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4207 Post(s)
Liked 3,874 Times
in
2,314 Posts
I wonder if the brake's reaction is causing the left side axle end to migrate down in the drop out slot. If so then the rim/tire will gradually move closer to the left side's fork blade. I also suspect that the OEM Q/R is the cheap and low clamping force "open cam" type and that replacing the QR with a all metal "enclosed cam" type will make some difference. I also suspect that the drop out slots are configured like most bikes have been for decades. The slot opens toward the ground and not forwards, which is the better direction for a disk brake bike. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Many thanks
Thanks all for all the good information and suggestions.
The QR brand is Quando - would that make it open or closed cam?
I checked the serrations on both ends and they look to still have plenty of "teeth" on them.
I was also careful to follow the guidance regarding how to correctly tighten and close the QR correctly.
I would include photos but can't do that until I have made 10 posts on the forums (two down...)
I definitely don't want this to be a recurring issue given the 500 ft altitude drop between my house and the grocery store. Any specific brand recommendations for replacement QRs?
Thanks again for everyone's help,
Kermit
The QR brand is Quando - would that make it open or closed cam?
I checked the serrations on both ends and they look to still have plenty of "teeth" on them.
I was also careful to follow the guidance regarding how to correctly tighten and close the QR correctly.
I would include photos but can't do that until I have made 10 posts on the forums (two down...)
I definitely don't want this to be a recurring issue given the 500 ft altitude drop between my house and the grocery store. Any specific brand recommendations for replacement QRs?
Thanks again for everyone's help,
Kermit
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,092
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4207 Post(s)
Liked 3,874 Times
in
2,314 Posts
The single search for "quando quick release" shows only open cam skewers. Shimano uses only enclosed cam skewers, as example.
Are you near a LBS? most shops have a used QR skewer box. We see so few customers who want a new skewer that we don't stock much unused ones and instead sell many used for a bunch less. Andy
Are you near a LBS? most shops have a used QR skewer box. We see so few customers who want a new skewer that we don't stock much unused ones and instead sell many used for a bunch less. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18377 Post(s)
Liked 4,512 Times
in
3,354 Posts
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,674
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 839 Post(s)
Liked 1,061 Times
in
745 Posts
The photos look like the dropouts aren't bent from the looks of the wear at least. As mentioned I would suspect the skewer needs to be replaced with a higher quality piece such as Shimano's or others.
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
1000 words
Clifford - thanks for posting my photos (I had no idea they went into an album!)
The first picture is similar to the Quando QR on the Blix. I have read up some more on QR design and now understand that this indeed an open cam QR. I'll call around to the nearest LBS to see if they might have a replacement QR with the right length and diameter. Anything else I should request?
Is it an issue that the left dropout would appear to be barely on the hub axle (please do correct me if I'm using the wrong terms)? Does this confirm Andrew's theory?
Thanks again for keeping me safe! I had a bad bike wreck many years ago on a faulty rental bike. I am hoping to rebuild my confidence so I can manage the hills all around.
Kermit
The first picture is similar to the Quando QR on the Blix. I have read up some more on QR design and now understand that this indeed an open cam QR. I'll call around to the nearest LBS to see if they might have a replacement QR with the right length and diameter. Anything else I should request?
Is it an issue that the left dropout would appear to be barely on the hub axle (please do correct me if I'm using the wrong terms)? Does this confirm Andrew's theory?
Thanks again for keeping me safe! I had a bad bike wreck many years ago on a faulty rental bike. I am hoping to rebuild my confidence so I can manage the hills all around.
Kermit
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18377 Post(s)
Liked 4,512 Times
in
3,354 Posts
I don't see anything too out of place. Steel dropouts should be good.
I see the disc on the left, as well as a bit more wear on that side.
Both the locknut on the hub as well as the quick release skewer should be knurled.
First of all... open the quick release, and make sure the wheel sits properly in both dropouts when the bike is sitting on the floor, or even upside-down. I never fully install a front wheel in the air. It is always with the bike on the floor.
I wonder if @Andrew R Stewart; is onto something with respect to the disc brakes (one of the reasons that a lot of disc brake bikes have gone to through axles.
What I probably would do is to go to a local bike shop or bike coop and try to find a Shimano or similar quick release.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224478799340
Make sure you get it good and tight.
One issue I had with the rear QR on one bicycle was that the the QR spindle is smaller than the interior dimension of the axle (as it should be).
The wheel would pull forward that 1/32" or so which was just enough to cause me problems with chainstay clearance.
My solution was to pull the QR on the DS side back slightly as I was tightening it.
In the case of the OP, he could pull the brake side of the QR nut up (or in parallel to the brake disc) as it is being locked down.
I see the disc on the left, as well as a bit more wear on that side.
Both the locknut on the hub as well as the quick release skewer should be knurled.
First of all... open the quick release, and make sure the wheel sits properly in both dropouts when the bike is sitting on the floor, or even upside-down. I never fully install a front wheel in the air. It is always with the bike on the floor.
I wonder if @Andrew R Stewart; is onto something with respect to the disc brakes (one of the reasons that a lot of disc brake bikes have gone to through axles.
What I probably would do is to go to a local bike shop or bike coop and try to find a Shimano or similar quick release.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224478799340
Make sure you get it good and tight.
One issue I had with the rear QR on one bicycle was that the the QR spindle is smaller than the interior dimension of the axle (as it should be).
The wheel would pull forward that 1/32" or so which was just enough to cause me problems with chainstay clearance.
My solution was to pull the QR on the DS side back slightly as I was tightening it.
In the case of the OP, he could pull the brake side of the QR nut up (or in parallel to the brake disc) as it is being locked down.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18377 Post(s)
Liked 4,512 Times
in
3,354 Posts
Yours do look a little short.
The Over Locknut Dimension (OLD) of most modern front quick release hubs and forks is 100mm, with a few exceptions of folding bicycles.
I think 106mm is not uncommon for axle lengths. If threaded on the ends, you can recenter the axle (often requiring adjusting the axle cones). That gives you about 3mm of axle sticking out.
Wheels Manufacturing sells a replacement front axle that is 110mm long.
That gives you about 5mm of axle sticking out (hopefully shorter than your dropouts).
However, you don't need a lot of axle sticking out, and I'm not convinced that is your problem.
#15
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,992
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6195 Post(s)
Liked 4,810 Times
in
3,318 Posts
When you say the wheel is off kilter, is it because the axle and QR have moved in the drop outs? Or is there something else going on and the QR is just a red herring?
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,092
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4207 Post(s)
Liked 3,874 Times
in
2,314 Posts
Through axles with disk brakes have a few reasons to be. One is the inferred trapping of the axle, and no migration due to reaction forces. Another is repeatable reinstalling the wheel and maintaining the pad/rotor clearances. Well designed through axles control the axle seating into the drop out consistently. Last is with suspension forks there's less flex with a through axle's stiffer axle and larger axle/dropout surface contact area. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#17
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,992
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6195 Post(s)
Liked 4,810 Times
in
3,318 Posts
And looking at the op's pics of the fork ends just now, the axle doesn't seem to extend out of the bearing cone or spacer. It should extend out far enough so the fork end can securely rest on it.