It's Here!!! (Kind of anyway)
10-30-08, 01:03 PM
#26
slow up hills
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you know you can mount it anyway, right? Then when you get the computer working (I'd do as waterrockets suggests, personally), you just turn it on.
10-30-08, 02:45 PM
#27
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SportTracks is good for data logging and the power info plugin shows the TSS, NP, IF, etc, but it doesn't really have the whole performance manager concept and the whole CTL/ATL concept is not all there yet. I use it at work to view my data after my rides but I use WKO+ at home for all the real analysis and SportTracks only for the logs.
10-30-08, 05:21 PM
#28
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how long did you leave it plugged in before you gave up? i once had to leave mine for a while before it came back to life. Now i make sure to charge it every one in a while even if i am not using it.
10-30-08, 05:56 PM
#29
Batüwü Creakcreak
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Yessir, why?
I've seen schematics of people changing the battery on the SRM crank itself, but I've never seen a schematic of the head unit. I can't afford to buy a new 850 dollar powercontrol, so I'm just going to spend the 100 bucks to get the battery replaced...
I don't think it's as easy as just opening the unit, popping out a battery and popping it back in. If it was, I would have done it myself.
I would try the link, except my unit doesn't show ANYTHING on the screen (i.e. totally toast). My computer won't even detect the unit.
I plugged it in for a few hours yesterday and a few hours today. I tried what they said about pressing the mode button a few times at different intervals and times and the unit just didn't feel like starting up. So back it goes.
I paid nothing for the SRM thanks to the generosity of a friend. I would have spent 600-800 on a powertap. So for the next 4-5 years, I should just break even on the usage of this thing. I'm more than okay with that. Maybe they'll come out with a user serviceable one by then.
Congrats!
Regarding the battery, I'd have a REALLY hard time sending it off for that. Get on the wattage forum and search around or ask. A quick dig found an old link: https://lists.topica.com/lists/wattag...=d&start=40525
Regarding the battery, I'd have a REALLY hard time sending it off for that. Get on the wattage forum and search around or ask. A quick dig found an old link: https://lists.topica.com/lists/wattag...=d&start=40525
I don't think it's as easy as just opening the unit, popping out a battery and popping it back in. If it was, I would have done it myself.
I would try the link, except my unit doesn't show ANYTHING on the screen (i.e. totally toast). My computer won't even detect the unit.
I paid nothing for the SRM thanks to the generosity of a friend. I would have spent 600-800 on a powertap. So for the next 4-5 years, I should just break even on the usage of this thing. I'm more than okay with that. Maybe they'll come out with a user serviceable one by then.
10-30-08, 06:25 PM
#30
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i have sent mine to SRM for battery replacement and it's pretty quick, that is if you willing to pay the $40 charge for them to ship it back 2nd day.
10-30-08, 06:52 PM
#31
Batüwü Creakcreak
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40 bucks for shipping for such a tiny unit is incredibly steep though...
I might just wait it out and just do the 15 dollar shipping, but that'll take another week to get here, but I could almost get a bottom bracket for the shipping cost difference!
10-30-08, 07:45 PM
#33
Senior Member
Cool! All aspects - SRM, quilt, letter.
My SRM powercontrol (V) goes blank whenever I leave it alone for a while (4-5 days). I charge it overnight, then another night, and try downloading data every now and then. It wakes up when you try and pull data from it, even though it doesn't respond when I push the various buttons on it. Give it charge and see how it goes. Nothing to lose. It took 2 days for the SRM to give up its data the last time it died on a ride, but I got all the data from both the ride (where it went blank - it still recorded valid ride data for 1+ hours when I thought it was dead) plus a prior ride (4-5 days prior, almost 5 hours of riding so a big drain on the battery).
At some point you'll need to replace the batt since they say about a year is normal for each. I think the guy told me 10k km on head and 25k km on cranks. The head is easy to tell. Crank batteries are going if you get weird data - like 3k avg wattage with a 5k watt peak, etc.
Since my cranks are on their original and the head is maybe 6 months, I may avoid the July panic of dead SRM batteries and do them both this winter sometime. I even have a few soldering irons (electric and butane), flux, and solder. So maybe during one of your quieter weeks we can set up shop somewhere and solder some batteries. I'll even go first
cdr
My SRM powercontrol (V) goes blank whenever I leave it alone for a while (4-5 days). I charge it overnight, then another night, and try downloading data every now and then. It wakes up when you try and pull data from it, even though it doesn't respond when I push the various buttons on it. Give it charge and see how it goes. Nothing to lose. It took 2 days for the SRM to give up its data the last time it died on a ride, but I got all the data from both the ride (where it went blank - it still recorded valid ride data for 1+ hours when I thought it was dead) plus a prior ride (4-5 days prior, almost 5 hours of riding so a big drain on the battery).
At some point you'll need to replace the batt since they say about a year is normal for each. I think the guy told me 10k km on head and 25k km on cranks. The head is easy to tell. Crank batteries are going if you get weird data - like 3k avg wattage with a 5k watt peak, etc.
Since my cranks are on their original and the head is maybe 6 months, I may avoid the July panic of dead SRM batteries and do them both this winter sometime. I even have a few soldering irons (electric and butane), flux, and solder. So maybe during one of your quieter weeks we can set up shop somewhere and solder some batteries. I'll even go first
cdr
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10-30-08, 08:15 PM
#34
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Cool! All aspects - SRM, quilt, letter.
My SRM powercontrol (V) goes blank whenever I leave it alone for a while (4-5 days). I charge it overnight, then another night, and try downloading data every now and then. It wakes up when you try and pull data from it, even though it doesn't respond when I push the various buttons on it. Give it charge and see how it goes. Nothing to lose. It took 2 days for the SRM to give up its data the last time it died on a ride, but I got all the data from both the ride (where it went blank - it still recorded valid ride data for 1+ hours when I thought it was dead) plus a prior ride (4-5 days prior, almost 5 hours of riding so a big drain on the battery).
At some point you'll need to replace the batt since they say about a year is normal for each. I think the guy told me 10k km on head and 25k km on cranks. The head is easy to tell. Crank batteries are going if you get weird data - like 3k avg wattage with a 5k watt peak, etc.
Since my cranks are on their original and the head is maybe 6 months, I may avoid the July panic of dead SRM batteries and do them both this winter sometime. I even have a few soldering irons (electric and butane), flux, and solder. So maybe during one of your quieter weeks we can set up shop somewhere and solder some batteries. I'll even go first
cdr
My SRM powercontrol (V) goes blank whenever I leave it alone for a while (4-5 days). I charge it overnight, then another night, and try downloading data every now and then. It wakes up when you try and pull data from it, even though it doesn't respond when I push the various buttons on it. Give it charge and see how it goes. Nothing to lose. It took 2 days for the SRM to give up its data the last time it died on a ride, but I got all the data from both the ride (where it went blank - it still recorded valid ride data for 1+ hours when I thought it was dead) plus a prior ride (4-5 days prior, almost 5 hours of riding so a big drain on the battery).
At some point you'll need to replace the batt since they say about a year is normal for each. I think the guy told me 10k km on head and 25k km on cranks. The head is easy to tell. Crank batteries are going if you get weird data - like 3k avg wattage with a 5k watt peak, etc.
Since my cranks are on their original and the head is maybe 6 months, I may avoid the July panic of dead SRM batteries and do them both this winter sometime. I even have a few soldering irons (electric and butane), flux, and solder. So maybe during one of your quieter weeks we can set up shop somewhere and solder some batteries. I'll even go first
cdr
I texted you this the other day too, but anyway.
I got a Dura ace octalink bottom bracket for the SRM. Ultegra is sold out everywhere, and DA is what came with my crank. I'll use the DA till it dies, with some maintenance here and there since the crank arms aren't too hard to take off. Hopefully it'll last, if not I'll grab a 105 bb to hold onto.
10-31-08, 03:28 AM
#35
Quarq shill
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This is common for the SRM? You guys pay 2K for a PM and don't mind if it goes blank for a few days? That would drive me crazy.
10-31-08, 03:33 AM
#36
out walking the earth
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10-31-08, 04:42 AM
#37
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10-31-08, 06:49 AM
#39
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Not having user replaceable batteries is one of the reasons that the SRM kinda bothers me, but from what I've heard and seen, everything else makes it awesome.
10-31-08, 11:33 AM
#40
I am the cheese
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10-31-08, 12:36 PM
#41
Ninja don't wear flipflop
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I sent my SRM cranks for battery replacement on Tuesday, they got them Thursday and sent me the return tracking number today. Also, I think the PCV battery replacement is only $50.
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10-31-08, 02:26 PM
#42
Making a kilometer blurry
If I ever own an SRM, I'll post here after I figure out how to reliably replace the batteries myself.
10-31-08, 02:49 PM
#43
Batüwü Creakcreak
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Well, that's up for debate.
I'll get the PM working in the next 2ish weeks. Then I'll have finals in december, after which I'm going to have surgery (hopefully the last bit) for my face and possibly for my teeth (still missing 2 suckers so implants, and possibly wisdom teeth out). Winter break is going to be more recovery. Hopefully I can get on the trainer and crank out intervals every other day for break. That should see some gains, as long as I stay the same or get a little (hopefully a lot) stronger over winter, I'll be content.
I'll need help from you guys on here to figure out what I should be doing as intervals and stuff on the trainer go. I'll probably end up watching movies while doing 2x20's or doing spinnervals or something.
I'll get the PM working in the next 2ish weeks. Then I'll have finals in december, after which I'm going to have surgery (hopefully the last bit) for my face and possibly for my teeth (still missing 2 suckers so implants, and possibly wisdom teeth out). Winter break is going to be more recovery. Hopefully I can get on the trainer and crank out intervals every other day for break. That should see some gains, as long as I stay the same or get a little (hopefully a lot) stronger over winter, I'll be content.
I'll need help from you guys on here to figure out what I should be doing as intervals and stuff on the trainer go. I'll probably end up watching movies while doing 2x20's or doing spinnervals or something.
10-31-08, 02:53 PM
#44
Knowing's half the battle
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waterrockets, I can't remember-- You train with power; is it a PowerTap wheel? I'm still considering building one up. I just can't remember what kind of meter you have; just knew that you liked it.
10-31-08, 02:54 PM
#45
Batüwü Creakcreak
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That really is ridiculous. Look how many water-resistant cyclocomputers there are out there with user-replaceable batteries. They should contract Cateye to make their case for them. Of course, if you can nab your customers for $50/year...
If I ever own an SRM, I'll post here after I figure out how to reliably replace the batteries myself.
If I ever own an SRM, I'll post here after I figure out how to reliably replace the batteries myself.
CDR and I are going to try to replace batteries on his crank, but I figure the crank should be sent in once every 2-3 years for calibration.
Here's the crank surgery:
https://birfield.com/~morgan/SRM_surgery.html
If you find something for the powercontrol, let me know. I'm out around 110 bucks for sending back the powercontrol for a new battery, even though it just got one in march.
10-31-08, 03:14 PM
#46
Batüwü Creakcreak
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Not really terrible for a once a year/every 2 years thing, if you swap the crank battery yourself. It does make it a necessity to own a backup bike if you're going to be taking apart the crank and you're in race season.
10-31-08, 03:48 PM
#48
Making a kilometer blurry
I'm not trying to encourage you to DIY, but if I could see a way into the case without damaging it, I'd be cracking the PCV open to see. Looking at the crank surgery, it looks REALLY simple. I'm assuming the PCV would be even simpler. You won't need a schematic to identify the battery...
10-31-08, 06:02 PM
#49
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I'm not trying to encourage you to DIY, but if I could see a way into the case without damaging it, I'd be cracking the PCV open to see. Looking at the crank surgery, it looks REALLY simple. I'm assuming the PCV would be even simpler. You won't need a schematic to identify the battery...
LINK
Another link
I guess CDR and I will have a go at it when he works on his since I'm probably going to go over and watch and learn. Plus, I talked to the guy who gave it to me and he really wanted me to send it in to get it swapped since he knows someone there. I don't really feel like the unit is mine yet, so I obliged.
Also, it needs a new seal upon opening, and I don't have one, though I suppose silicone sealant would do the trick.
Also, this is what someone who took apart the crank said (from weightweenies):
Hi... I've taken apart the SRM crankset... not too difficult. Search and ye shall find...
As for the Powercontrol... Gotta be careful with the screws. Tighten them too much and they'll poke through the face of the PCV... Learned that one the hard way.
I don't see why you'd need to replace the seal after opening it... Just wipe it clean and put some clean silicone sealant on it. I think the front piece of the casing can be removed from the back piece... There's a ribbon cable connected to the buttons on the faceplate. From what SRM have told me, the battery is actually glued onto the PCV casing so it's best to mail the PCV in if ya need a battery replacement.
As for the Powercontrol... Gotta be careful with the screws. Tighten them too much and they'll poke through the face of the PCV... Learned that one the hard way.
I don't see why you'd need to replace the seal after opening it... Just wipe it clean and put some clean silicone sealant on it. I think the front piece of the casing can be removed from the back piece... There's a ribbon cable connected to the buttons on the faceplate. From what SRM have told me, the battery is actually glued onto the PCV casing so it's best to mail the PCV in if ya need a battery replacement.
OK today i opened my powrecontrol. The battery inside is a Ni-Mh 3.6v 100mAh and it's not glued. But you need to be carefull if you are going to replace it because the batteries wires are to close to the screen. The batteries dimensions are: height 23mm and 15mm diameter.
I did a search at google so i can order one to change it but i was unlucky.
Does anyone help me find one?
Thanks
I did a search at google so i can order one to change it but i was unlucky.
Does anyone help me find one?
Thanks
My current crank setup is outboard bb's on the cannondale, and the SRM is octalink. Maybe I'll buy an octalink compact or double backup crank for the weekend I have to take the SRM off or just as a general backup.
Last edited by ridethecliche; 10-31-08 at 06:06 PM.
10-31-08, 07:28 PM
#50
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FWIW, If you keep it charged up and cycled you can get some pretty stupid hours out of the head unit. I've got 700 hours since '06 on the same battery, I've run it to blank a couple of times but follow their advice in trying to not let it discharge.