Re-installed Bottom Bracket, now Front Derailleur (DI2) not shifting properly
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Re-installed Bottom Bracket, now Front Derailleur (DI2) not shifting properly
So, this is second time I've done BB maintenance....First time went smooth.
This time, just did a cleanup of grit and re-greasing. Re-installed - everything shifted OK in stand. Went out, and it was not shifting into big ring most shifts. Brought it back home, uninstalled pedal side...gave crank side a good smack a few times to make sure shaft was all the way though. Re-tightened, tested shifting...seemed better. Out on street..seemed OK, but then realized same issue.
Any ideas? Should I re-install the bottom bracket as well? Perhaps tighten more? Could the Derailler just have gotten mis-adjusted? Or perhaps you need to adjust the FD (DI2) sometimes after reinstalling a Crank?
Thanks in advance for help or guidance.
This time, just did a cleanup of grit and re-greasing. Re-installed - everything shifted OK in stand. Went out, and it was not shifting into big ring most shifts. Brought it back home, uninstalled pedal side...gave crank side a good smack a few times to make sure shaft was all the way though. Re-tightened, tested shifting...seemed better. Out on street..seemed OK, but then realized same issue.
Any ideas? Should I re-install the bottom bracket as well? Perhaps tighten more? Could the Derailler just have gotten mis-adjusted? Or perhaps you need to adjust the FD (DI2) sometimes after reinstalling a Crank?
Thanks in advance for help or guidance.
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You might tell us what bike you have or at least the crankset. It sounds like the crank isn't slid onto the BB spindle quite as far (or further; you haven't said how the shifts differ).
Press fits are not an exact science, I find I usually have to tweak the limit screws a little after taking off and re-mounting a crankset. And I would fully expect to need to also tweak the cable barrel adjust if I ran index. (Another reason I remove cranksets as seldom as possible.) I'll let the brifter/Di2 folk give you better advice but my dollar says they'll just repeat what I said with details.
Press fits are not an exact science, I find I usually have to tweak the limit screws a little after taking off and re-mounting a crankset. And I would fully expect to need to also tweak the cable barrel adjust if I ran index. (Another reason I remove cranksets as seldom as possible.) I'll let the brifter/Di2 folk give you better advice but my dollar says they'll just repeat what I said with details.
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Hi, the BB is threaded (Shimano Dura Ace)
Its a Dura-Ace standard crank
The difference in shifting is that it doesn't shift into the big ring. The derailler moves, but I assume not far enough...because perhaps the crank isn't properly re-installed?
Its a Dura-Ace standard crank
The difference in shifting is that it doesn't shift into the big ring. The derailler moves, but I assume not far enough...because perhaps the crank isn't properly re-installed?
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Just for haha's did you check whether the DR is still aligned while you had it in the stand and it shifted onto the large chainring? What you're describing sounds like the DR moved or you need to set the outer (H) stop to allow the cage to move farther out. Good luck.
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I micro adjusted top limit 2 steps and that seems ok in stand. I'll check on road
But should I be concerned but how to make an adjustment after maintenance? Is it possible my reinstallation wasn't exactly good? Even though I reinstalled it three times and I was still having that issue? I don't recall doing anything that would have misaligned the FD
But should I be concerned but how to make an adjustment after maintenance? Is it possible my reinstallation wasn't exactly good? Even though I reinstalled it three times and I was still having that issue? I don't recall doing anything that would have misaligned the FD
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So, went for a 20 mile ride.....shifting perfectly for 19 of those miles. Then at end, it started not shifting into the large ring again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What could be happening? Could the crank be loose somehow? Very strange.
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It sounds like the spindle is sliding around sideways between the bearings. Loosen the pinch bolts on the left crank, tap the drive side crank with a mallet, and re-tighten the side-load nut on the left.
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I think I may actually just reassemble the whole thing again
Maybe I'll do the mallet things first
If it fails just start all over
And if that fails....LBS!!! SIGH
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If you understand what the function of the stopper plate is on the left crankarm and you correctly used it during the installation of the crank arm, then your crank arm isn't the issue.
But since you jumped at the idea that you need to tap on it with a mallet, then you probably have overlooked the stopper plate use entirely. And the stopper plate may even be damaged now.
But since you jumped at the idea that you need to tap on it with a mallet, then you probably have overlooked the stopper plate use entirely. And the stopper plate may even be damaged now.
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If you understand what the function of the stopper plate is on the left crankarm and you correctly used it during the installation of the crank arm, then your crank arm isn't the issue.
But since you jumped at the idea that you need to tap on it with a mallet, then you probably have overlooked the stopper plate use entirely. And the stopper plate may even be damaged now.
But since you jumped at the idea that you need to tap on it with a mallet, then you probably have overlooked the stopper plate use entirely. And the stopper plate may even be damaged now.
thx again
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If you were able to push the stopper plate in, prior to tightening the bolts on the crank arm, then the crank is far enough on the spindle.