Too tight or too loose?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Too tight or too loose?
I’m trying to fix up an old abandoned bike I found with the intention of using it as a beater but I’ve ran into a snag while overhauling the BB. Unfortunately the previous owner had it adjusted too loose with a considerable amount of play and after adding new grease/bearings and attempting to readjust it myself it’s become clear I have no chance of getting it perfect.
The non-drive side spindle cone is still in great shape but the drive side cone has some uneven looking wear and some pitting which is obviously the reason for this trouble. I know it’s not optimal to keep using it in that condition but I've ridden other bikes with pitted BB spindles before and it honestly didn't bother me too much. The rest of the drivetrain is also fairly worn so I’d like to see how much more life I can get out of everything before I consider any replacements.
Anyway when I adjust the preload to the point where there is no play it feels too tight and very rough/grindy and the only way I can get it to spin somewhat smoother without much resistance is to leave it adjusted a tad loose with a small amount of play.
So my question is which adjustment would theoretically last me longer and cause the least amount of additional damage/wear to the spindle? Tight/rough feeling with no play or slightly loose/smoother with a bit of play? I’m guessing most likely the latter but some confirmation would be appreciated.
The non-drive side spindle cone is still in great shape but the drive side cone has some uneven looking wear and some pitting which is obviously the reason for this trouble. I know it’s not optimal to keep using it in that condition but I've ridden other bikes with pitted BB spindles before and it honestly didn't bother me too much. The rest of the drivetrain is also fairly worn so I’d like to see how much more life I can get out of everything before I consider any replacements.
Anyway when I adjust the preload to the point where there is no play it feels too tight and very rough/grindy and the only way I can get it to spin somewhat smoother without much resistance is to leave it adjusted a tad loose with a small amount of play.
So my question is which adjustment would theoretically last me longer and cause the least amount of additional damage/wear to the spindle? Tight/rough feeling with no play or slightly loose/smoother with a bit of play? I’m guessing most likely the latter but some confirmation would be appreciated.
#2
Sr Member on Sr bikes
So my question is which adjustment would theoretically last me longer and cause the least amount of additional damage/wear to the spindle? Tight/rough feeling with no play or slightly loose/smoother with a bit of play? I’m guessing most likely the latter but some confirmation would be appreciated.
Dan
Likes For _ForceD_:
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,837
Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 676 Post(s)
Liked 741 Times
in
430 Posts
Theoretically a cup and cone bearing should have a little preload for longer life. It should not be loose at all. But worn parts probably throw that theory out the window.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 712
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked 262 Times
in
164 Posts
In the end, BB's with pitted parts are a waste of effort. It's going to go bad pretty fast. If you have access to a bike co-op, I would bring the bike in and you might luck into a works-great BB for not much trouble. Donuts and beer might help.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hmm ok looking through my parts I do have a 127mm cartridge BB I had forgotten about. Would that be a suitable replacement for the 124mm spindle? (asymmetrical)
#6
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,987
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6193 Post(s)
Liked 4,809 Times
in
3,317 Posts
It'll be perfect if it fits and everything lines up.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Well scratch that idea. I had assumed the BB shell width was 68mm but I just measured it only to discover it's actually 70mm! What the heck?? The bike is a Supercycle Hooligan from 2007 I believe. I know it's a low end Canadian Tire bike but why on Earth would they choose such a rare measurement for the shell?
Guess I have no choice but to use the pitted spindle now.
Guess I have no choice but to use the pitted spindle now.
#8
Blamester
I’m trying to fix up an old abandoned bike I found with the intention of using it as a beater but I’ve ran into a snag while overhauling the BB. Unfortunately the previous owner had it adjusted too loose with a considerable amount of play and after adding new grease/bearings and attempting to readjust it myself it’s become clear I have no chance of getting it perfect.
The non-drive side spindle cone is still in great shape but the drive side cone has some uneven looking wear and some pitting which is obviously the reason for this trouble. I know it’s not optimal to keep using it in that condition but I've ridden other bikes with pitted BB spindles before and it honestly didn't bother me too much. The rest of the drivetrain is also fairly worn so I’d like to see how much more life I can get out of everything before I consider any replacements.
Anyway when I adjust the preload to the point where there is no play it feels too tight and very rough/grindy and the only way I can get it to spin somewhat smoother without much resistance is to leave it adjusted a tad loose with a small amount of play.
So my question is which adjustment would theoretically last me longer and cause the least amount of additional damage/wear to the spindle? Tight/rough feeling with no play or slightly loose/smoother with a bit of play? I’m guessing most likely the latter but some confirmation would be appreciated.
The non-drive side spindle cone is still in great shape but the drive side cone has some uneven looking wear and some pitting which is obviously the reason for this trouble. I know it’s not optimal to keep using it in that condition but I've ridden other bikes with pitted BB spindles before and it honestly didn't bother me too much. The rest of the drivetrain is also fairly worn so I’d like to see how much more life I can get out of everything before I consider any replacements.
Anyway when I adjust the preload to the point where there is no play it feels too tight and very rough/grindy and the only way I can get it to spin somewhat smoother without much resistance is to leave it adjusted a tad loose with a small amount of play.
So my question is which adjustment would theoretically last me longer and cause the least amount of additional damage/wear to the spindle? Tight/rough feeling with no play or slightly loose/smoother with a bit of play? I’m guessing most likely the latter but some confirmation would be appreciated.
Make sure lockrings are tight.
No need to buy new parts till you actually need them.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,479
Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 966 Post(s)
Liked 1,629 Times
in
1,045 Posts
I have never done this but it certainly looks plausible...
__________________
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
#10
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,987
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6193 Post(s)
Liked 4,809 Times
in
3,317 Posts
So buying a new BB isn't an option?
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Maybe I'll just try riding with it for awhile and see how it goes. if it doesn't work out it appears I can in fact use a 68mm cartridge BB in a 70mm shell with the only drawback being 1mm of error on each side.
Last edited by Deetox; 09-01-21 at 11:41 AM.
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#13
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,629
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3871 Post(s)
Liked 2,568 Times
in
1,579 Posts
Well scratch that idea. I had assumed the BB shell width was 68mm but I just measured it only to discover it's actually 70mm! What the heck?? The bike is a Supercycle Hooligan from 2007 I believe. I know it's a low end Canadian Tire bike but why on Earth would they choose such a rare measurement for the shell?
Guess I have no choice but to use the pitted spindle now.
Guess I have no choice but to use the pitted spindle now.
#14
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,626
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3888 Post(s)
Liked 6,484 Times
in
3,208 Posts
#15
(rhymes with spook)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Winslow, AR
Posts: 2,788
Bikes: '83 univega gran turismo x2, '85 schwinn super le tour,'89 miyata triple cross, '91 GT tequesta, '90 yokota grizzly peak, '94 GT backwoods, '95'ish scott tampico, '98 bonty privateer, '93 mongoose crossway 625, '98 parkpre ariel, 2k'ish giant fcr3
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 919 Post(s)
Liked 745 Times
in
546 Posts
*ran....i ran so far away