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Too tight or too loose?

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Old 09-01-21, 08:46 AM
  #1  
Deetox
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Too tight or too loose?

I’m trying to fix up an old abandoned bike I found with the intention of using it as a beater but I’ve ran into a snag while overhauling the BB. Unfortunately the previous owner had it adjusted too loose with a considerable amount of play and after adding new grease/bearings and attempting to readjust it myself it’s become clear I have no chance of getting it perfect.

The non-drive side spindle cone is still in great shape but the drive side cone has some uneven looking wear and some pitting which is obviously the reason for this trouble. I know it’s not optimal to keep using it in that condition but I've ridden other bikes with pitted BB spindles before and it honestly didn't bother me too much. The rest of the drivetrain is also fairly worn so I’d like to see how much more life I can get out of everything before I consider any replacements.

Anyway when I adjust the preload to the point where there is no play it feels too tight and very rough/grindy and the only way I can get it to spin somewhat smoother without much resistance is to leave it adjusted a tad loose with a small amount of play.

So my question is which adjustment would theoretically last me longer and cause the least amount of additional damage/wear to the spindle? Tight/rough feeling with no play or slightly loose/smoother with a bit of play? I’m guessing most likely the latter but some confirmation would be appreciated.
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Old 09-01-21, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Deetox
So my question is which adjustment would theoretically last me longer and cause the least amount of additional damage/wear to the spindle? Tight/rough feeling with no play or slightly loose/smoother with a bit of play? I’m guessing most likely the latter but some confirmation would be appreciated.
Either way the assembly is already compromised. It’s probably going to plummet to useless quickly either way. Why throw all your hard work down the drain? Buy new parts…or at least obtain used parts that aren’t compromised. Seriously consider a sealed BB.

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Old 09-01-21, 09:16 AM
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Theoretically a cup and cone bearing should have a little preload for longer life. It should not be loose at all. But worn parts probably throw that theory out the window.
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Old 09-01-21, 09:29 AM
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In the end, BB's with pitted parts are a waste of effort. It's going to go bad pretty fast. If you have access to a bike co-op, I would bring the bike in and you might luck into a works-great BB for not much trouble. Donuts and beer might help.
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Old 09-01-21, 09:31 AM
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Hmm ok looking through my parts I do have a 127mm cartridge BB I had forgotten about. Would that be a suitable replacement for the 124mm spindle? (asymmetrical)
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Old 09-01-21, 09:46 AM
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It'll be perfect if it fits and everything lines up.
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Old 09-01-21, 10:32 AM
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Well scratch that idea. I had assumed the BB shell width was 68mm but I just measured it only to discover it's actually 70mm! What the heck?? The bike is a Supercycle Hooligan from 2007 I believe. I know it's a low end Canadian Tire bike but why on Earth would they choose such a rare measurement for the shell?

Guess I have no choice but to use the pitted spindle now.
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Old 09-01-21, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Deetox
I’m trying to fix up an old abandoned bike I found with the intention of using it as a beater but I’ve ran into a snag while overhauling the BB. Unfortunately the previous owner had it adjusted too loose with a considerable amount of play and after adding new grease/bearings and attempting to readjust it myself it’s become clear I have no chance of getting it perfect.

The non-drive side spindle cone is still in great shape but the drive side cone has some uneven looking wear and some pitting which is obviously the reason for this trouble. I know it’s not optimal to keep using it in that condition but I've ridden other bikes with pitted BB spindles before and it honestly didn't bother me too much. The rest of the drivetrain is also fairly worn so I’d like to see how much more life I can get out of everything before I consider any replacements.

Anyway when I adjust the preload to the point where there is no play it feels too tight and very rough/grindy and the only way I can get it to spin somewhat smoother without much resistance is to leave it adjusted a tad loose with a small amount of play.

So my question is which adjustment would theoretically last me longer and cause the least amount of additional damage/wear to the spindle? Tight/rough feeling with no play or slightly loose/smoother with a bit of play? I’m guessing most likely the latter but some confirmation would be appreciated.
​​​​​​I would leave it a hair loose. It wil likely run like that for a very long time with no issues.
Make sure lockrings are tight.
No need to buy new parts till you actually need them.
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Old 09-01-21, 10:52 AM
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I have never done this but it certainly looks plausible...

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Old 09-01-21, 11:19 AM
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So buying a new BB isn't an option?
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Old 09-01-21, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by blamester
​​​​​​I would leave it a hair loose. It wil likely run like that for a very long time with no issues.
Make sure lockrings are tight.
No need to buy new parts till you actually need them.
That's kind of what I originally thought/hoped. Like I said I've ridden bikes with pitted cones before (BB's and wheels) and most of the time I couldn't even notice it. I've also taken apart dozens of other ditched bikes with pitted cones that must have been ridden for many years like that. Obviously not ideal but is it really that huge of a problem all the time?

Maybe I'll just try riding with it for awhile and see how it goes. if it doesn't work out it appears I can in fact use a 68mm cartridge BB in a 70mm shell with the only drawback being 1mm of error on each side.

Last edited by Deetox; 09-01-21 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 09-01-21, 11:35 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by zandoval
I have never done this but it certainly looks plausible...

https://youtu.be/7teBpbzMEcc
What a great idea I might have to give that a shot some day.
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Old 09-02-21, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Deetox
Well scratch that idea. I had assumed the BB shell width was 68mm but I just measured it only to discover it's actually 70mm! What the heck?? The bike is a Supercycle Hooligan from 2007 I believe. I know it's a low end Canadian Tire bike but why on Earth would they choose such a rare measurement for the shell?

Guess I have no choice but to use the pitted spindle now.
Some bikes were like that. As long as the bottom bracket shell is English-threaded, you can still use a regular "68mm" cartridge unit like the Shimano UN300. The left-side cup will thread all the way into the shell and disappear as it makes contact with the rest of the bottom bracket.
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Old 09-02-21, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Deetox
I’ve ran into a snag.
*run

Are you using new loose balls, 11 on each side?
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Old 09-02-21, 12:33 PM
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*ran....i ran so far away
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