The Cult of CAAD...
#4976
King Hoternot
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 5,255
Bikes: 2015 Cannondale Evo Hi mod
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First, welcome. Second, copy and paste the last "key" with photo bucket to display image.
#4977
Senior Member
esurek, nice bike, congrats. don't worry about upgrades just ride it for now. after a while you will know exactly what you want. as for cages you can get cheap black cages that are light honestly. I got some off ebay that are 20g each and they got to me in three days.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Carbon-F...item48465f76e7
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Carbon-F...item48465f76e7
#4979
Beer >> Sanity
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,449
Bikes: 2014 Evo DA2, 2010 Caad9-4, 2011 Synapse-4, 2013 CaadX-disc
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Going to bike shop tomorrow or Tuesday to pick up my new ride. Narrowed it down to CAAD 10 5 or Supersix 5. Scott CR1 might also be in the running. But as for the two cannondales, would going aluminum with 105s be a bad move if I can swing the supersix? The supersix would max out budget whereas the caad 10 5 would perhaps allow me to upgrade wheels and seat. I already have clothes, helmet, shoes.
Can't speak to a SS but I'd get the caad, upgrade the wheels and bars, stem, seatpost, etc. depending on what you feel is important.
#4980
Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter
#4981
Senior Member
There's one relatively cheap upgrade you can do immediately which will make a big difference to the way the bike feels: Get Continental GP 4000 S tires on there. I believe they can be found for around $120 a pair if you scratch around, and they will give you the biggest bang for the buck by far.
THEN ...
Cranks (SRAM Force)
Wheels (Soul, Williams, Boyd, etc. - take yer pick - they're all quite inexpensive and very good)
THEN ...
Bars, stem, seatpost.
That said - I haven't made all of those upgrades yet, But I'm spending $150 on a professional fitting tomorrow afternoon, almost 2 years after getting the bike. That will probably give me a better return than any bike parts. I'll be fitted using Cannondale's (er - Dorel's) Guru fitting system. Details here:
https://www.bikerumor.com/2012/09/19/...il-experience/
#4983
moth -----> flame
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 5,916
Bikes: 11 CAAD 10-4, 07 Specialized Roubaix Comp, 98 Peugeot Horizon
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There's one relatively cheap upgrade you can do immediately which will make a big difference to the way the bike feels: Get Continental GP 4000 S tires on there. I believe they can be found for around $120 a pair if you scratch around, and they will give you the biggest bang for the buck
I'd also think about wheels as a bigger upgrade before cranks.
I wouldn't get too hung up on that. Latex tubes are nice and plush, but I think you should be fine with a regular butyl tube, whatever your LBS carries.
__________________
BF, in a nutshell
BF, in a nutshell
#4984
Beer >> Sanity
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,449
Bikes: 2014 Evo DA2, 2010 Caad9-4, 2011 Synapse-4, 2013 CaadX-disc
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Out of curiosity, would anyone sell off a caad9 to get a caad10? I like my 9 a lot and have been thinking of upgrading the group but the 10-2 would get me more or less what I'm looking for and I like the black/silver scheme (although the red on the wheels is annoying).
#4986
King Hoternot
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 5,255
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-Esurek-my recommendation would be to swap out tires first as DG said, but after that I would do a fitting. Doesn't have to be some $500 fitting with lasers and levels, but a general fitting. For you, the only difference between a $10 fitting and a $500 fitting is $490 out of your pocket AND a better GUESS of where you need to be. All said and done a fitting is a rule of thumb and gets your body where scientifically you should be. Nobody can tell you what your body can though. That being said, you probably wont know what feels right or feels wrong for a while. That comes with experience. So, get a general fitting done which will get your body in the general correct position and then you can make minor adjustments after that if needed.
After you have some riding experience, I would invest in wheels if you want to make some upgrades. A wheelset is your contact point to the road, so stiffer, lighter or aero will effect your climbing, descending and flat road riding more than cranks will.
Then:
Brake calipers-stiffer and brake calipers with minimal flex will make a huge difference when combined with good brake pads.
Cranks-you have several choices, but a good start would be FSA slk light cranks or the Sram Force. FSA gossamer cranks are bottom of the line and HEAVY
Seatpost, stem, bars-those are all personal preference i.e shape, weight and material.
THEN after that, you can start to upgrade other parts.....
-cages, seatpost clamp, Tubes, expander plugs, Top caps,rear derailleur, Front derailleur, Cables, Ti bolt kits, ti spindle pedals, gearing (chainrings and cassettes), chain, skewers, bartapes....etc
After you have some riding experience, I would invest in wheels if you want to make some upgrades. A wheelset is your contact point to the road, so stiffer, lighter or aero will effect your climbing, descending and flat road riding more than cranks will.
Then:
Brake calipers-stiffer and brake calipers with minimal flex will make a huge difference when combined with good brake pads.
Cranks-you have several choices, but a good start would be FSA slk light cranks or the Sram Force. FSA gossamer cranks are bottom of the line and HEAVY
Seatpost, stem, bars-those are all personal preference i.e shape, weight and material.
THEN after that, you can start to upgrade other parts.....
-cages, seatpost clamp, Tubes, expander plugs, Top caps,rear derailleur, Front derailleur, Cables, Ti bolt kits, ti spindle pedals, gearing (chainrings and cassettes), chain, skewers, bartapes....etc
#4987
Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter
Should I replace my Sram Rival crankset with an FSA SL-K Light crankset? I can get one from a buddy for super cheap.
#4988
King Hoternot
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Oregon City, OR
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What color is the "K"?
The red "K" might look good with combination to your soul wheels. I like the white "K" SLK's best though
The red "K" might look good with combination to your soul wheels. I like the white "K" SLK's best though
#4990
Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter
Red K.
I really like how it would look. A few pages ago somebody said throwing an FSA crank on here would be sacrilege.
I really like how it would look. A few pages ago somebody said throwing an FSA crank on here would be sacrilege.
#4991
AngelmanSyndrome.org
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Plant City, FL
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#4992
AngelmanSyndrome.org
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Plant City, FL
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#4993
Member
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I just took my caad out for the first time in a couple months. Been riding my carbon synapse most of the winter. As I'm riding over chip-seal on one of my regular routes I found myself wondering why the caad was so much smoother than the synapse. Both have nice wheels with 25mm GP 4000s tires, alloy bars and stem, caad has alloy seatpost and synapse carbon. All things considered the synapse should be the better ride but it's not.
Can't speak to a SS but I'd get the caad, upgrade the wheels and bars, stem, seatpost, etc. depending on what you feel is important.
Can't speak to a SS but I'd get the caad, upgrade the wheels and bars, stem, seatpost, etc. depending on what you feel is important.
My current research is on pedals. What do you use?
#4994
King Hoternot
Join Date: Jun 2010
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Here ya go jaytron...I can do a red SLK if you want also. took me like 2 min so its no trouble.
#4995
Senior Member
#4996
Brown Bear, Sqrl Hunter
Oh well ****, HAHA. I feel like an idiot.
#4999
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 325
Bikes: 2013 CAAD 8 6 Black/Red
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I like the red better. Subtle little accents like that are just.... /does french kissy finger thing
#5000
Senior Member