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Utrasonic Cleaner Recommendations?

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Old 12-08-23, 08:38 AM
  #26  
tiger1964 
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OK, this AM is my first use of the Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner (looks like the photo in post #1) my wife bought me six months ago. Reading about the Ball Jar approach, I liked that and we had two unused ones laying around. So, I dumped small parts into the small jars and added a solution of hotter water and Simple Green HD (supposed to be aluminum-safe) in the jars to cover the parts, filled the reservoir around them to the max marking, and set the longest time setting of 480 seconds and the “Heat” setting and off she goes. Noisy bugger, ain’t it? Annoying buzzing sounds.

So, is this overkill? Or underkill, if there’s such a word? Multiple 480-second sessions?

I need to do rather a lot. I am restoring three old bikes for friends, all at once. Right now I have 26 “red Solo” cups of small parts, as I disassembled each derailed and brake caliper as much as possible, and keeping each separate so I am nt trying to figure out what goes where later. Bigger stuff like cranksets, handlebars, etc. won’t fit.

First batch, a Campagnolo headset and a Campagnolo Nuovo Record RD, mostly pretty darn good after one 480 second session. That said, some items needed “wiping?” To remove grunge. A couple of items, like the headset bearing in cages, and the RD lower pivot spring, still has thick grease (everything got a cursory wipe down upon disassembly) and gets a second session. Expectations? After a second session, the headset bearing look and feel as-new, the RD pivot spring less so (and I see the RD pulleys have the infamous crack).

And how many sessions before replacing the fluid, I presume one determines visually by color of the remaining fluid. I was considering trying to filter the solution through coffee filters but I figure that adds hours to the process time, and it looks to be a lot of sessions.
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Old 12-08-23, 08:47 AM
  #27  
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About once a year I think about buying an ultrasonic cleaner and read up on them. So many opinions on them I end up feeling confused and never pull the trigger. I’m finally going through my stash of parts and have lots of stuff to clean so this may be the year I take the plunge. Lots of great info in this thread!
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Old 12-11-23, 07:04 PM
  #28  
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I usually leave the parts in until they are clean, Time varies. In my experience, heavy grease does not come off well without a prerinse and scrub in kerosine or something similar. I have found that a strong solution of regular simple green and water works well for around three heavy cycles and then seems to lose its potency. It is cheap enough; I just replace it. (but regular simple green is NOT aluminum safe)

I have a couple of cheap ultrasonic cleaners and they are noisy! I leave them in the garage. The high-end ones are tolerable in the house but $$$.

I once left one running that did not have a timer and when I remembered it, the solution was boiling!! I caught it in time, but if it had boiled dry, the least that would have happened would have been a ruined ultrasonic machine, the worst, a burned down house? Even though these are small machines, they are powerful at the chemistry and physics level. Use with care, they can and will ruin things. Keep your fingers out of them when they are running!

The Ball jar works well for small parts, so they do not get lost and are easy to retrieve, and as a hack, if you need to use some type of fluid that is more aggressive… just float the jar in water like a little coracle and Bob’s your uncle.
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Old 12-11-23, 11:36 PM
  #29  
Alan K
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Here’s one source that seems more affordable, from a general search:

https://www.vevor.com/ultrasonic-cle...hoCprsQAvD_BwE

They list a 22 liter unit for $210 (460 W) and a 10 liter unit for $125.

From specifications, it seems decent but I have never used this outfit and cannot vouch for their quality.

I saw some do it yourself plans for building one, if you are so inclined.
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Old 12-12-23, 06:08 AM
  #30  
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Another good cleaning tool is a disposable battery powered toothbrush. We keep them after the bristles are worn and then they go to the parts cleaning dungeon. Add a little Dawn and these things will buzz off grime like crazy.
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Old 12-13-23, 08:14 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BTinNYC
Another good cleaning tool is a disposable battery powered toothbrush. We keep them after the bristles are worn and then they go to the parts cleaning dungeon. Add a little Dawn and these things will buzz off grime like crazy.
Hmm, the Aldi grocery chain has electric toothbrushes on special this week at $4.99; I think I'll pick one up. Bonus: the next time my dentists asks "are you using an electric toothbrush", I can respond in the positive.
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Old 12-14-23, 07:43 AM
  #32  
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Harold, Calgary is large enough to have one or more industrial tool second hand shops. We found a used but nice condition ~ 2 gallon w/heater ultrasonic at one in 2010 at 1/5 the new cost. It has served our cycling family and my retirement work restoring trucks very well. You might do a quick check..
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Old 12-15-23, 04:57 PM
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happy owner of the $50 Harbor Freight cleaner - bought it used a decade ago and it's still going strong. well worth the money.
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Old 12-16-23, 03:36 PM
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Get a big one.
Get one with a heater.
Get one with a timer.
Get a bit of wood and some spring clamps and put your parts in ziplock bags with whatever solution you choose.
Fill the cleaner with water and hang the bags in the water by clamping them to the stick, which should bridge the two sides on the cleaner.
DON'T allow the bags to touch the sides or bottom - if a part inside the bag touches the side/bottom the vibrations may wear a hole in your ziplock.
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Old 12-26-23, 08:08 PM
  #35  
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I have posted this before and never got any feedback. Auto antifreeze in crockpot over night and parts come out like new. I started this over 20 years ago for model engines with backed on castor oil. Delrin parts should not go in for more than a hour. I started using it for bike parts when I got into flipping large amounts of bikes. You can use the fluid over and over as junk goes to bottom. I cleaned off antifreeze with tap water if needed. Frozen ballbearings in model engines spun like new.
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Old 03-27-24, 09:57 AM
  #36  
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Hi Folks,

An ultrasonic tip I saw on utube -
for smaller parts in larger ultrasonic tanks, when you need to use something stronger as a cleaner, like acetone,
put the part and acetone in a glass jar with a good lid, put water in the tank, put the glass jar in the water.
A plastic jar works, but a more rigid glass jar transfers more energy inside the jar.

Thanks and good health, Weogo
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Old 03-27-24, 09:59 AM
  #37  
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Hi Weogo. Thanks for the tip. I've been using the glass jar with a good lid (a tiny Mason works wonderfully) but instead of harsh chemicals, I just use another squirt or two of Dawn. Works every time!
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Old 03-28-24, 03:44 PM
  #38  
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I picked up a Vevor 10L unit from Amazon in February after returning the 6L version. The 10L has worked great for everything from square taper cranks, v brakes, brake handles, shifters, chains, cassettes, derailleurs, headsets, stems, and bearings. I use Dawn dish soap (don't know the ratio) and a splash of Park Tools chain cleaner for eveything and have not damaged any of the various finishes. Generally 1-1.5 hrs of cleaning will break the crud loose and then they get wiped down with an old t shirt. I had several old Alivio 7 spd derailleurs that worked great after the clean, dry, and lube. I tried putting the parts/cleaning solution in small plastic tubs and sitting those in the cleaner but it does not work as well as just in the basket in the tank.

I'd like a larger tank that would accept a Hollowtech II crank but cannot justify the price difference.
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Old 03-28-24, 10:34 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by EddyR
I have posted this before and never got any feedback. Auto antifreeze in crockpot over night and parts come out like new. I started this over 20 years ago for model engines with backed on castor oil. Delrin parts should not go in for more than a hour. I started using it for bike parts when I got into flipping large amounts of bikes. You can use the fluid over and over as junk goes to bottom. I cleaned off antifreeze with tap water if needed. Frozen ballbearings in model engines spun like new.
Ed
Hmmm, never thought of antifreeze. I’ll give it a try as I’ve been using some stuff that works great (Tyme, I think), but it’s pricey. Trying to figure out a way to filter out the gunk in the used solution
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Old 03-29-24, 07:04 AM
  #40  
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How does one properly dispose of antifreeze? Down the drain? Would the "safe" antifreeze work as well? I can't remember which is which. One is ethylene glycol, the other I think propylene glycol.
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Old 04-05-24, 08:58 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by smontanaro
How does one properly dispose of antifreeze? Down the drain? Would the "safe" antifreeze work as well? I can't remember which is which. One is ethylene glycol, the other I think propylene glycol.
Late to the party, but... Propylene is the animal-safe antifreeze. As for disposal, at least here in Wisconsin, most any auto service shop will take it and dispose of it as they would with anything removed from a vehicle they work on.

No idea how either would work in an ultrasonic, as I have plenty of other options.
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Old 04-06-24, 06:57 AM
  #42  
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I use one of two solvents in my Ultrasonic cleaner. Either Acetone or Tyme (a freon (legal) derivative). The acetone is used for the easy stuff as it's cheap and can be filtered and reused. The Tyme for the difficult stuff.
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Old 04-06-24, 03:07 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Propylene is the animal-safe antifreeze.
"Less-unsafe" would be a more accurate description; the ld50 for ethylene glycol is twice that of propylene, but it still won't take much - a half a cup will likely kill a small dog.
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Old 04-07-24, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by PromptCritical
I use one of two solvents in my Ultrasonic cleaner. Either Acetone or Tyme (a freon (legal) derivative). The acetone is used for the easy stuff as it's cheap and can be filtered and reused. The Tyme for the difficult stuff.
Do not put volatile or flammable solvents into an ultrasonic.

Ultrasonics lower the vapor pressure and greatly increase evaporation rates. (how room humidifiers work) This means that any fire or toxicity hazards are much worse.

There are safe ways to use flammable solvents in Ultrasonic, sometimes called the "double boiler" method. The manual that came with your machine should cover this.
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