kroozer 

I have just discovered that there is not enough vertical space on my steering tube for the center-pull brake cable stop and my new VO decaleur mount: with both mounted on the headset there is almost no thread left for the locknut (the bike is a Motobecane Grand Record with a Stronglight Competition headset and Weinmann Vainqueur brakes). There are various work-arounds like using side-pull brakes or drilling a hole through the handlebar stem for a cable stop, but these would be last resorts. Any way to combine a cable stop with the decaleur? Some other kludge?

ThermionicScott 

You could have a few mm faced from the headtube...

icemilkcoffee 

A lot of MTB stems come with cable hangers. You don't have to drill your existing stem

https://www.ebay.com/p/1100172833?iid=374757817685

tyrion

Cable stop that mounts to fork?

nlerner

Nitto makes a cable stop that clamps to the stem. Not cheap and somewhat hard to find, unfortunately:

https://global.bluelug.com/fairweath...ll-thread.html

repechage

In the off-road group era, Campagnolo made an aluminum part that fit over the headset top nut and provided a cable stop, used a pinch bolt to secure to the top nut.
‘Styling.

ehcoplex 

Velo Orange sells a stop that (with a shim) will clamp to the stem. Currently out-of-stock, but they do seem to restock their stuff pretty frequently. I had the same issue trying to set up a decaleur on my PX-10, and I got one of the V-O stops, but didn't end up using either that or the decaleur, and I can't remember why, so it's possible it won't quite work.. (I think my issue was that I really needed the decaleur to be up higher, so what I probably really need is a decaleur that clamps to the stem, not a cable stop.....)

gugie 

Here's one way I've done it.

Nemosengineer 

That is a nice piece of hardware, I bought the Nitto.
P/N AS-11 Available on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/125765969214

Paul makes something similar...
https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/compon...-cable-hanger/

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

: Mike

kroozer 

Technically, that solves the problem very nicely, but then I'd end up with an MTB stem. The whole French handlebar bag thing is expensive and impractical compared to almost any other option, although the British saddlebag thing also vies for the title of Most-farting-around-and-spending-money-for-the-least-results. I'm doing it almost entirely for the look (although it does provide a small bit of carrying capacity), so it really needs to have a proper vintage road stem.

The Golden Boy 

I love that Nitto piece as well:

Nitto Cable Hangers, front and rear. by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr

Nitto Front by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr

JaccoW

Absolutely but having both a saddlebag and a rando bag does look very nice and is pretty aero as far as bags go.

unterhausen

I never liked those washer-based velo orange decaleurs anyway. Sure, a decaleur doesn't take a lot of load, but I have heard of that variety breaking, and it's really heavy. I've started putting a boss for decaleur mounting on my stems, gets it out of the way. That would drive up the cost a lot though.

As far as rando bags being impractical, once you have them set up they are incredibly useful. I even have one on my gravel bike, and it gets used all the time. I need a bigger bag on that bike because I always end up carrying stuff for my wife when we ride on rail trails. I need to put a front rack and bag on her bike, but she has a shimano headlight that is going to be difficult to move onto the rack.

ehcoplex 

That sounds interesting- do you have any photos?

Totally agree. Phone, snacks, camera, map, an extra layer, different glasses.... all immediately accessible without having to get off the bike. Sometimes without even having to stop! My 'racy' Holdsworth has just a saddle bag and it's way less quick and convenient when I need something.

Dfrost 

Another vote for a stem-mounted decaleur from @gugie with integrated cable stop. Had the same issue on the Miyata with Gugificazione!, solved beautifully. He did mine with tubes going up, since my frame and bag are both tall. Note the neat integrated Dia-Compe brake QR/straddle carrier found on eBay (Mark may now have a few of them also). BTW, I asked him to orient the decaleur clamp bolt “backwards” as shown. The exposed bolt head retains the bag top elastic cord very nicely, which I pull around the right side of the stem, away from the cables.


Dia-Compe QR/straddle carrier:

mpetry912 

that's a nice looking part ! Elegant solution to a complicated problem.

/markp

El Chaba

It is an elegant solution. As soon as the need or desire for a decaleur-based handlebar bag comes up, unless all of the stars fall into alignment, SOMETHING will have to be custom made. A whole bike could be designed around such a handlebar bag system, and from the original constructeurs and the newer ones practicing the same dark art it often dictated the top tube length of the frame. In my opinion, it is worth the trouble for the stability and to clear the handlebars of clutter. Also in my opinion, if you can make do with a smaller bag, a rack based bag without a decaleur provides all of the benefits without any of the hassles….but sometimes you just need the storage. I spent so many years racing and not carrying anything that couldn’t fit in my jersey pockets that even a small bag to carry the extra clothing, food, a bottle, etc. that always seems to be needed on a long ride-especially in changeable weather- seems a great luxury and is a huge improvement over grossly overstuffed jersey pockets.

79pmooney

+1 My first thought. There's no need for a fancy cast or forged part. This could be done in bent steel. With the right brakes (and headset/crown details), not a difficult home brew. I've considered making one since I like to run my canti straddle longer than the stops I've seen.

Imazagi

I had the same problem with my Capo and the VO decaleur. I was lucky to find a Nitto x Bluelug hanger at Sprockets.uk. Before this, I talked to a local frame builder to add a cable stop to the decaleur. If you find someone who can weld stainless, it shouldn't be too hard.