oneclick 

When it came off, did it turn easily after it was unstuck, or was it tight all the way?

If the latter, check the threads; I'd be worried about it being a metric FW forced onto an imperial hub.

pastorbobnlnh 

YES! Congratulations! In instances similar to ljr , IMO, the pipe wrench or bench vise are the best solutions for final removal of a ruined inner freewheel body. The hub is less likely to be damaged, thus avoiding a wheel and freewheel replacement.

BTW, ljr, you are now at 10 posts and can add your own pictures. Time to show us your entire bike(s). Welcome aboard at C&V.

thumpism 

Too late to the thread for a solution, but the wheel I fixed last month required my 18" pipe wrench and a cheater pipe on the end for additional leverage. Find yourself a nice hunk of 2" pipe to keep on hand for such occasions. Also works on lug wrenches.

CroMo Mike 

ljr now you should check to see that all your brute force has not bent the axle. That happens sometimes.

bwilli88 

Where are you living in Asia, it is a big place. Posting from Cambodia.

oneclick 

Won't happen if you cut the fw off with a dremel.

ljr

You maybe correct, seems either the axle or the inner hub has bent a little bit. I noticed a 1~2mm shifting on the wheel, looks like it came from the center. well....I'll live with it. this is even harder to fix.

ljr

Shanghai China

ljr

It has not finished yet. I'll show the final product when the job is done.
So, I received the replacement freewheel today. It's a 7-speed Regina Extra Synchro, 12-19t. Seems this model is pretty rare, I couldn't find another one online. Now I am facing the same dilemma again The inner body of the 7-speed has approx 0.5~1mm play, I can hear and feel movement of bearings and inner body when I shake the freewheel. I guess this probably means it needs a new set of bearings. I managed to demount the top cog, but the second and the top cone are pretty tight. Tried and failed. Should I stop right here or risk breaking another freewheel...Damn!!
Before the new freewheel adaptor(parktool FR-4, specifically for this Regina fw) arrives I'm not going to mount it on the hub


here comes few photos

ljr

It come off easily after it was unstuck, many rust on the threads tho.
The threads are fine, thanks for your concern. The hub is 1.375'' ISO standard, the freewheel probably is Italian standard, should be compatible.
​​​​​​​

branko_76 

The bearings may be dry, I've used Phil Tenacious Oil

pastorbobnlnh 

Beautiful frameset! Stunning!

"...the second and the top cone are pretty tight...."

I want to make certain we're on the same page here. By "second" you mean the next smallest sprocket, which I'm guessing is a 13T. I have found that frequently on 7 speed models, the second and third sprockets, which thread together, are difficult to impossible to separate. The third sprocket threads to the freewheel body. Attempt to remove it with the 13T remaining in place.

By "cone" do you mean the outer bearing race/retaining ring which is stamped "REGINA-EXTRA SYNCRO"? If so, in this model, the second and third sprocket combo need to be removed before you can disassemble the freewheel for service.

"I can hear and feel movement of bearings and inner body when I shake the freewheel. I guess this probably means it needs a new set of bearings...."
Not necessarily. What it definitely means is that the bearings have no lubrication. You can attempt the "dribble" method of service as branko_76 has suggested, but this is only a temporary (should be repeated frequently), and usually messy solution (the oil seeps out onto the drivetrain parts which retains dirt and can shorten their life).

Also, the "dribble" method rules out a proper inspection. You can't determine if the bearings, pawls, or spring are corroded and need replacement. You can't fully flush out other contaminants or remove corrosion on the internal halves of the freewheel body.

Based on what you've described, I'd recommend a full service on your vintage Regina freewheel. It needs proper inspection and cleaning, new grease in the races, and quality oil on pawl pivots and ratchet teeth. I can coach you through the process if you are interested.

ljr

Yes, by saying "second" I mean the 13T cog, "cone" refers to the retaining ring which stamped "Regina extra synchro".I agree a full service is necessary sooner or later, better be now.
I shall mount it to my wheel, loose the 14T+13T with 2 freewheel wrenches(the one with a chain on it) then loose the top retaining ring using a hammer and a center pin, and lastly demount the freewheel. I will start the process once I have the FR-4 adapter and the second fw wrench, good luck to me!

ljr

Here is the final product!
BTW, can anybody identify the year of made and model of this bike?