Find a vintage Peugeot bike- will be fun to practice cleaning/tune up
#1
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Find a vintage Peugeot bike- will be fun to practice cleaning/tune up
Hello everyone,
I found a vintage Peugeot road bike. I am not sure about the model. It would be fun for me to practise cleaning, to put new grease and enjoy riding.
It s probably a basic model, and I like it.
The front wheel seems original ( not the tire). It does not have the rear wheel, also the rear derailleur pulleys broke. I replace it with a Shimano rear derailleur (that I have) and borrow a wheel from a C.itoh bike.
It has some rusted the chainring and cranks.
I put new brake cable and cable housing, then test riding(before re-grease), it feels smooth.
Next step would be cleaning and greasing bottom bracket, headset. I may have many questions when doing a tune up.
I would love to hear some thought on this bike from Peugeot bike owners/lovers.
Thank you.
I am sharing some photos of it. ( bike series number on bottom bracket: 1925361)
I found a vintage Peugeot road bike. I am not sure about the model. It would be fun for me to practise cleaning, to put new grease and enjoy riding.
It s probably a basic model, and I like it.
The front wheel seems original ( not the tire). It does not have the rear wheel, also the rear derailleur pulleys broke. I replace it with a Shimano rear derailleur (that I have) and borrow a wheel from a C.itoh bike.
It has some rusted the chainring and cranks.
I put new brake cable and cable housing, then test riding(before re-grease), it feels smooth.
Next step would be cleaning and greasing bottom bracket, headset. I may have many questions when doing a tune up.
I would love to hear some thought on this bike from Peugeot bike owners/lovers.
Thank you.
I am sharing some photos of it. ( bike series number on bottom bracket: 1925361)
Last edited by yesterbik; 09-02-22 at 07:07 PM. Reason: add more details
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#2
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That’s a pretty clean bike. The rear derailleur is a replacement that purists will hate but whatever. The crankset will be a bear to service but that’s all part of the fun, right. 🙂
Best wishes and keep us posted.
Best wishes and keep us posted.
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model: U08
year: 1971
you may discover a date marking on the front wheel rim inside a small diamond symbol -
also there may be a date marking on the underside of the machine's Simplex Prestige front gear mech -
[image courtesy of member T-Mar]
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model: U08
year: 1971
you may discover a date marking on the front wheel rim inside a small diamond symbol -
also there may be a date marking on the underside of the machine's Simplex Prestige front gear mech -
[image courtesy of member T-Mar]
-----
#4
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I will look to find these info.
Attached photo is the front rim/ wheel.
#5
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It's an interesting mix of components. Shimano SIS rear derailleur, Simplex front derailleur and if I'm not mistaken, those may be Suntour downtube levers?
That being said, it's all friction shifting so I don't expect the mismatch to cause any issues.
Be careful when servicing that Simplex - the plastic gets brittle and over torquing the bolt could easily split it (guess how I learned that?)
But most of all, enjoy! Cleaning up a bike and doing your own wrenching is a rewarding experience.
That being said, it's all friction shifting so I don't expect the mismatch to cause any issues.
Be careful when servicing that Simplex - the plastic gets brittle and over torquing the bolt could easily split it (guess how I learned that?)
But most of all, enjoy! Cleaning up a bike and doing your own wrenching is a rewarding experience.
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Very nice specimen. I had a UO-8 almost 50 years ago and now ride a PA-10E. Welcome to the club. Read up on all the methods of removing crank cotters before you attempt it. I used a 2x4 brace with a hole to accept the hammered out pin and was lucky to be able to reuse the pins. Your saddle looks great. I think you are correct: all original except for rear wheel and Shimano rear derailleur. After you rebuild what you have, fun would be finding a Simplex rear derailleur, alloy rims and Kool-Stop brake pads for better braking.
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It's an interesting mix of components. Shimano SIS rear derailleur, Simplex front derailleur and if I'm not mistaken, those may be Suntour downtube levers?
That being said, it's all friction shifting so I don't expect the mismatch to cause any issues.
Be careful when servicing that Simplex - the plastic gets brittle and over torquing the bolt could easily split it (guess how I learned that?)
But most of all, enjoy! Cleaning up a bike and doing your own wrenching is a rewarding experience.
That being said, it's all friction shifting so I don't expect the mismatch to cause any issues.
Be careful when servicing that Simplex - the plastic gets brittle and over torquing the bolt could easily split it (guess how I learned that?)
But most of all, enjoy! Cleaning up a bike and doing your own wrenching is a rewarding experience.
-----
shift lever set worn by cycle is the OEM Juy model 2954 which was announced in 1970 but did not begin coming through on new cycles until the model year 1971
https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.a...104&AbsPos=269
---
the ADGA model 28A saddle is OEM
name a kind of acronym coming from company founder Adrian Gallet
https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.a...m=106&AbsPos=3
rear wheel and mech are the only non-original fittings on cycle
-----
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#8
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Maybe they are the Simplex shifters, I used to have that set on a bike a long time ago, it kind of looked to me like they had fatter tips in the on ends than the original Simplex, but maybe it was just the lighting that deceived me.
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Oh Bouy.... fun, Fun, FUN!!!
And remember, loose balls rule!
And remember, loose balls rule!
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#10
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Thank you all for the inputs.
It comes with a Simplex rear derailleur, however the two pulley wheels broke.
Shifter is a Simplex as well.
It comes with a Simplex rear derailleur, however the two pulley wheels broke.
Shifter is a Simplex as well.
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A Peugeot UO 8 is a fine bike. I like French bikes a lot but they do have different threading (bottom bracket and headset) and dimensions for the stem. None of that matters if you keep the original parts.
Although the UO 8 is a fine bike, some of the parts are good and others so-so. The brakes are good and the Ideale 39 saddle looks to be serviceable. The headset is good but you will want to be careful taking it apart to service it. The lower bearings are likely loose with the top having a race (that has been the case for the Peugeots I've serviced but that may not be the case here obviously). Also it adjusts a little differently than many headsets so keep an eye on the parts as you take it apart to service it.
The easiest way to deal with the crank to service it is to find or borrow a cotter press. If you don't have access to one, it will be harder but not impossible to service it.
The steel rim wheels are serviceable but if the bike is a keeper, it is worth installing aluminum alloy wheels as they are significantly lighter and breaking performance will improve in the wet. If you do go to the trouble of swapping out wheels, you may want to switch to 700c wheels rather than sticking with 27 inch.
Lastly, the front derailleur and shifters are not very good. The plastic used on them doesn't tend to hold up over time. I'd head to a bike co-op and find some decent aluminum replacements.
Have fun. Also I don't care what others say but keep the dork disc. It's cool in a sort of classic and vintage way.
Although the UO 8 is a fine bike, some of the parts are good and others so-so. The brakes are good and the Ideale 39 saddle looks to be serviceable. The headset is good but you will want to be careful taking it apart to service it. The lower bearings are likely loose with the top having a race (that has been the case for the Peugeots I've serviced but that may not be the case here obviously). Also it adjusts a little differently than many headsets so keep an eye on the parts as you take it apart to service it.
The easiest way to deal with the crank to service it is to find or borrow a cotter press. If you don't have access to one, it will be harder but not impossible to service it.
The steel rim wheels are serviceable but if the bike is a keeper, it is worth installing aluminum alloy wheels as they are significantly lighter and breaking performance will improve in the wet. If you do go to the trouble of swapping out wheels, you may want to switch to 700c wheels rather than sticking with 27 inch.
Lastly, the front derailleur and shifters are not very good. The plastic used on them doesn't tend to hold up over time. I'd head to a bike co-op and find some decent aluminum replacements.
Have fun. Also I don't care what others say but keep the dork disc. It's cool in a sort of classic and vintage way.
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The stem needs to be lowered but before you do pull it and inspect it for cracks especially near the expansion plug. AVA aka the "death stem".
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My 1970 UO-8, built up from a bare frame when I worked at a Peugeot dealership. UO-8s are some of the best basic gas pipe frames out there, but I do recommend component upgrades.
I am partial to SunTour derailleurs and barcons, as well as the afore-mentioned aluminum rims. Since my aftermarket fork puts the front wheel a bit further back than stock, I use a 700Cx28 tire in front and 165mm crankset to minimize toe-to-tire overlap.
My UO-8 with barcon cables routed between the rack and the cylindrical Bellwether front bag.
I am partial to SunTour derailleurs and barcons, as well as the afore-mentioned aluminum rims. Since my aftermarket fork puts the front wheel a bit further back than stock, I use a 700Cx28 tire in front and 165mm crankset to minimize toe-to-tire overlap.
My UO-8 with barcon cables routed between the rack and the cylindrical Bellwether front bag.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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If you are going to go to a square tapper crank you will need a 5SB Bottom Bracket Spindle...
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#17
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#18
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@Novakane ; @bikemig ; @Classtime : You give me good advice. Today I put two 700x25C UKAI alloy wheels in (borrow from a Norco bike) to test ride. The wheels are lighter and I can feel the improvement when riding. Will wait for a chance to get a set of alloy rim for it.
@dmark : I have the same thought with you. I loosen the bolt, pull the stem out, it looks good, no cracks, then put it back, lower it a little.
The next challenge will be removing the cotter cranks. I will update the process.
Thank you all.
@dmark : I have the same thought with you. I loosen the bolt, pull the stem out, it looks good, no cracks, then put it back, lower it a little.
The next challenge will be removing the cotter cranks. I will update the process.
Thank you all.
Last edited by yesterbik; 09-03-22 at 01:31 PM.
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"The next challenge will be removing the cotter cranks."
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"The next challenge will be removing the cotter cranks."
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You could try casting your net a bit wider and look for Gitanes and Motobecanes as well. I live in a decent sized city (Des Moines) and there are certain models of bikes that just weren't sold in the area and so almost never pop up. Miyatas are nearly impossible to find locally but Fujis are common for example. Plus you have to be patient. It took me a long time to find a Peugeot PX 10 and as soon as I found it, I also picked up a Mercier 300 and a Motobecane Grand Record. Go figure but they all popped up around the same time locally.
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take care that all is in perfect alignment prior to exerting any pressure
if alignment slightly off stud will be bent
bent stud renders extraction more difficult
Peugeot wedgebolts are unique in the industry with a very heavy "cut" (flat area)
this means they have a greater contact area between the wedgebolt and the bottom bracket spindle so they require more pressure to remove
if you damage one or both replacements are available...
-----
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take care that all is in perfect alignment prior to exerting any pressure
if alignment slightly off stud will be bent
bent stud renders extraction more difficult
Peugeot wedgebolts are unique in the industry with a very heavy "cut" (flat area)
this means they have a greater contact area between the wedgebolt and the bottom bracket spindle so they require more pressure to remove
if you damage one or both replacements are available...
-----
take care that all is in perfect alignment prior to exerting any pressure
if alignment slightly off stud will be bent
bent stud renders extraction more difficult
Peugeot wedgebolts are unique in the industry with a very heavy "cut" (flat area)
this means they have a greater contact area between the wedgebolt and the bottom bracket spindle so they require more pressure to remove
if you damage one or both replacements are available...
-----
I also used to place additional washers between the cotter nut and the surface of the crank arm, leaving a gap of only about 1/4". That ensured that the threaded portion of the cotter pin would not bend sideways.
This approach works with both the C clamp method and the hammer method.
Last edited by Trakhak; 09-06-22 at 06:39 AM.