Applications for 3D Printing in C&V?
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Applications for 3D Printing in C&V?
Out of my element here, but was just pondering what applications there might be for 3D printing in the restoration of classic and vintage bicycle. What with some parts becoming like "hen's teeth", is it feasible to fabricate parts through the printing process? Or perhaps CNC machining?
Costs surely would come into play, but if something is otherwise unobtainium, might it be a viable route to go?
Costs surely would come into play, but if something is otherwise unobtainium, might it be a viable route to go?
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I don't know what materials 3D printers use, but brake hoods would possibly be something. Crank arm dust caps too. And while many people eschew reflectors, the spoke clips for Cat-Eye wheel reflectors are weak after all these years. But I don't know that any of those would be in such demand that it would be feasible to do economically.
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I had my BIL print me up some cannondale cable guides. I've walked away from several dirt cheap frames over the years because they were missing, now I'm ready if I see another.
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Yup. Cable guides. My Look KG96 is missing one.
Can 3D printers print rubber or silicone pieces? Most of the brake hoods and older brifter hoods are long out of production and impossible to find.
Can 3D printers print rubber or silicone pieces? Most of the brake hoods and older brifter hoods are long out of production and impossible to find.
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My son and I have found quite a few things to print on thingiverse.com, mostly stuff like phone mounts, bottle cages, etc. The cool thing is to be able to pull the models up in something like onshape and modify them to my specific needs. I am also debating some more specific needs, like broken shifter hoods that I just can't seem to locate. Fun stuff!
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Is rubber an option for 3D printing? Brake hood replacement requests are probably one of the main requests I see on these boards.
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Sturmey archer S-5 top tube plastic shift levers
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I had one of my co-workers print up some feet for my Zefal HP pump. We found the file on thingiverse.com. He played around with the file on a CAD program to make the final result better. The part that slides into the pump body was too thin. It's not perfect, but I didn't want to complain too much when he was doing me a favor.
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I've heard of 3D printed powder metal titanium lugs with a honeycomb internal structure being used in the fabrication of titanium bike frames. The same for fork and rear triangle drop outs. This type of technology could be used for classic and vintage applications to make frame repair parts or even disc brake mounts to convert vintage frames over to flat disc mounts.
As far as obsolete tech that is worthy of being re-created, I have been asking someone to come up with some re-manufactured Uniglide freewheel and or cassette cogs. Also, SunTour Accushift cassette cogs to make an 8 speed road cassette would be really great.
Lastly, there is a HUGE need for matched triple chainring sets for Ultegra or Dura Ace triple cranks. Especially the 7703 (nine speed era) cranks and 7803 (10 speed era) cranks. The deal breaker for 3D printing such a thing is whether or not such a thing could have equivalent strength to a cold forged or CNC milled part.
As far as obsolete tech that is worthy of being re-created, I have been asking someone to come up with some re-manufactured Uniglide freewheel and or cassette cogs. Also, SunTour Accushift cassette cogs to make an 8 speed road cassette would be really great.
Lastly, there is a HUGE need for matched triple chainring sets for Ultegra or Dura Ace triple cranks. Especially the 7703 (nine speed era) cranks and 7803 (10 speed era) cranks. The deal breaker for 3D printing such a thing is whether or not such a thing could have equivalent strength to a cold forged or CNC milled part.
Last edited by masi61; 08-10-22 at 03:09 PM.
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Oh yeah- the black plastic top cap for Silca pumps. They sell just about every replacement part needed to rebuild your Silca Pump but somehow don't sell this top cap, which is held on with two sheet metal screws and predictably strips out with repeated opening.
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I don’t think rubber items can be printed. If you’re talking printing metal items, the world is your oyster but that’s pretty expensive. I’d heard Teschner, an Australian builder, was exploring 3D printing titanium frame sets.
Cassette and freewheel spacers come to mind. Other bits and bobs for rack mounts. Washers and disks for downtube shifters. In some cases the common plastic extruded material might not be durable enough for reliable load bearing bike use, but that’s just a layman’s guess.
Cassette and freewheel spacers come to mind. Other bits and bobs for rack mounts. Washers and disks for downtube shifters. In some cases the common plastic extruded material might not be durable enough for reliable load bearing bike use, but that’s just a layman’s guess.
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Glad I started this topic. Seems that there are applications and materials which work. Thanks for sharing your expertise everyone.
This article seems to provide a comprehensive listing of materials which can be 3d printed:
https://www.sharrettsplating.com/blo...d-3d-printing/
This article seems to provide a comprehensive listing of materials which can be 3d printed:
https://www.sharrettsplating.com/blo...d-3d-printing/
#14
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3D printers are so cheap now if you’re at all maker-inclined you’d be nuts not to have one.
I use mine for making tools and jigs regularly. Like the black bit for aligning the mandrel on this press
Or this anvil set that puts a perfect 1” diameter indent at exactly 73 degrees in a 50mm fender.
I’ve also made headset press adapters, star nut setters, and a useful travel-sized headset wrench. Sure, I could buy some of these things, but it’s often more fun and faster to just design and print them. Especially for tools I may only need once or twice, I just make them.
While I think tool making is 3D printing’a most useful application, it’s party trick is making parts fit together.
Like this light mount to attach a b&m dynamo tail light to a Gilles Berthoud saddle
Or this one to attach a battery tail light to a seat tube shifter boss
Or maybe put a Spurcycle bell on a bar end?
How about a removable horizontal diffuser for this flashlight so it can be used as a headlight on a bike, as well as a camp torch.
For awhile during the pandemic you couldn’t get pannier hardware. So I made some with 3d printed hooks and old aluminum tent poles. It’s been on many tours now, and has held up great, though I did print, and do carry, spare parts.
I’m not sure if a printer is worth having just to print stuff from thingiverse, but if you’re willing to learn the basics of 3D design, they’re very very useful.
I use mine for making tools and jigs regularly. Like the black bit for aligning the mandrel on this press
Or this anvil set that puts a perfect 1” diameter indent at exactly 73 degrees in a 50mm fender.
I’ve also made headset press adapters, star nut setters, and a useful travel-sized headset wrench. Sure, I could buy some of these things, but it’s often more fun and faster to just design and print them. Especially for tools I may only need once or twice, I just make them.
While I think tool making is 3D printing’a most useful application, it’s party trick is making parts fit together.
Like this light mount to attach a b&m dynamo tail light to a Gilles Berthoud saddle
Or this one to attach a battery tail light to a seat tube shifter boss
Or maybe put a Spurcycle bell on a bar end?
How about a removable horizontal diffuser for this flashlight so it can be used as a headlight on a bike, as well as a camp torch.
For awhile during the pandemic you couldn’t get pannier hardware. So I made some with 3d printed hooks and old aluminum tent poles. It’s been on many tours now, and has held up great, though I did print, and do carry, spare parts.
I’m not sure if a printer is worth having just to print stuff from thingiverse, but if you’re willing to learn the basics of 3D design, they’re very very useful.
Last edited by fliplap; 12-26-22 at 08:41 AM.
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Shimano PD-64 cleats for the Dura-Ace PD-7400 and 600 tri-color PD-6400 pedals.
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Top joint for my Strida Mark I, amongst other Strida parts, thanks to the inventor Mark Sanders. I had that printed in ASA which is basically UV-stable ABS.
Seat sliders for my BikeE (now defunct company) recumbent from the early 1990s.
Just two things off the top of my head.
Seat sliders for my BikeE (now defunct company) recumbent from the early 1990s.
Just two things off the top of my head.
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How about Campagnolo ERGO rebuild parts like 8, 9, 10 speed index parts. That part that typically breaks for the spring retention.
Or equivalent parts for DT index shifting.
diameter adaptors for handlebars to mount what you want on what you want.
That piece on the DA FD which provides resistance to the limit screws. Mine broke. Probably easier to find a piece of plastic the right thickness and make one.
Been out ot the ME environment for a long while. What are the mechanical properties limitations? Material options?
Or equivalent parts for DT index shifting.
diameter adaptors for handlebars to mount what you want on what you want.
That piece on the DA FD which provides resistance to the limit screws. Mine broke. Probably easier to find a piece of plastic the right thickness and make one.
Been out ot the ME environment for a long while. What are the mechanical properties limitations? Material options?
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A cable stop that will fit onto the aero dt shifter braze-on?
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Rubber, no. What's used in printing has no shear strength, tears very easily.
Plastic bits under compression work great.
Metal parts are actually really cheap. 7 years ago a headtube lug was around $400. Today, $40-$60.
Plastic bits under compression work great.
Metal parts are actually really cheap. 7 years ago a headtube lug was around $400. Today, $40-$60.
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Actually you can print rubber, well rubber like material. TPU - thermoplastic polyurethane can be printed on a FDM printer. There are also flexible resins for resin printers. Making brake hoods is doable. I would probably print brake hoods using a resin printer. Simply 3D scan the brake lever and create the outer profile. It wouldn't be that hard.
While the shear strength is weaker by about 50% compared to the other orientation, it can still be incredibly high. I printed a 1"x2"x12" block with PLA+ at work to be tested on the Instron tensile testing machine. It was printed in the weakest direction for the test. We bolted it to the table with 2 bolts at 10" apart and pulled in the middle. It broke at 1300 lbs. The reason we did the test was we needed to build a complex geometry to attach an aircraft part for structural testing.
While the shear strength is weaker by about 50% compared to the other orientation, it can still be incredibly high. I printed a 1"x2"x12" block with PLA+ at work to be tested on the Instron tensile testing machine. It was printed in the weakest direction for the test. We bolted it to the table with 2 bolts at 10" apart and pulled in the middle. It broke at 1300 lbs. The reason we did the test was we needed to build a complex geometry to attach an aircraft part for structural testing.
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Could a 3D printer make this little upper body bushing, part #2, for Campanutella derailleurs? This pic is the first Gen Athena.
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It's worse than that, especially when you are in the 35-40 Shore A materials. There is no way a printed hood won't tear when you try to put it on the lever. Then, as a bonus, UV will trash it in 12 months.
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Pedal dust caps. Oil port clips. Top tube cable guides (C'dales).
I'm very impressed with fliplap 's photos above. Wow.
I'm very impressed with fliplap 's photos above. Wow.