For the love of English 3 speeds...
09-04-18, 07:09 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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The local co-op moved and I went to the new location. A step down from the previous place and I hope they survive. There's a dumpster out back with detritus from the move. I may have to go diving.
How it looked at the old place.
How it looked at the old place.
09-04-18, 07:38 PM
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A dl-1 with one crank arm and missing the seat stays. Well, at least the price is right. It could be a project. Any 28" wheels in there? Fenders?
I see that you already have a DL-1 so, that frees you up to get creative. The seat stays can be fabricated. This can even be a point of creativity. Polished Aluminum perhaps?
Did you grab it? Is this a project for you then? If so, keep us up to date on the plans and how things are going.
I see that you already have a DL-1 so, that frees you up to get creative. The seat stays can be fabricated. This can even be a point of creativity. Polished Aluminum perhaps?
Did you grab it? Is this a project for you then? If so, keep us up to date on the plans and how things are going.
09-04-18, 09:27 PM
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I have a chainguard and a non Raleigh 28" rear fender that would fit. I also have a roll of heavy galvanized wire that chainstays could be made from.
09-04-18, 10:52 PM
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I have one on my customized Rudge. It is an aluminum rim. The hub is steel with that modern chrome that you see these days. I can vouch for it. It's a good wheel for the price and whoever laced it up did a good job. Here it is on my Rudge. I'm also using Tektro R559 brakes.
09-04-18, 11:07 PM
Senior Member
Hello all,
So I finally forked over the cash for a BIKESMITH press I'm overhauling the bottom bracket on my 1979 Sport. First cotter pin was tight and ended up bending and needing to be punched out a bit, second one came out perfect.
Cleaning the parts tonight, tomorrow I'm going to repack it.
My question is this, when adjusting the bottom bracket how smooth should it be? I know I should adjust for no binding and no play, I'm sure it will not be super smooth like a modern bottom bracket when spinning. The reason I ask is on the Superbe I have, when I repacked that bottom bracket it didn't spin super smooth, it would bind in some places. I made sure to check the bottom bracket on the 1980 Sport and it was also not smooth, im sure that was because the grease was old.
So any help would be appreciated.
So I finally forked over the cash for a BIKESMITH press I'm overhauling the bottom bracket on my 1979 Sport. First cotter pin was tight and ended up bending and needing to be punched out a bit, second one came out perfect.
Cleaning the parts tonight, tomorrow I'm going to repack it.
My question is this, when adjusting the bottom bracket how smooth should it be? I know I should adjust for no binding and no play, I'm sure it will not be super smooth like a modern bottom bracket when spinning. The reason I ask is on the Superbe I have, when I repacked that bottom bracket it didn't spin super smooth, it would bind in some places. I made sure to check the bottom bracket on the 1980 Sport and it was also not smooth, im sure that was because the grease was old.
So any help would be appreciated.
09-05-18, 04:51 AM
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I was thinking that the axle diameter was the goofy thing about Raleigh forks that might cause a problem, but reflecting on it, I think it's the OLD that can be a problem. The Raleigh Sports bikes were spaced for 90 mm OLD (or about that) and most hubs are about 100 mm. I put a modern Shimano generator hub on a Sports some years ago and it was not an easy fit to get that sucker in there. Is the Rudge spaced for 90 mm, like the Raleighs and was the hub compatible?
09-05-18, 05:15 AM
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Hello all,
So I finally forked over the cash for a BIKESMITH press I'm overhauling the bottom bracket on my 1979 Sport. First cotter pin was tight and ended up bending and needing to be punched out a bit, second one came out perfect.
Cleaning the parts tonight, tomorrow I'm going to repack it.
My question is this, when adjusting the bottom bracket how smooth should it be? I know I should adjust for no binding and no play, I'm sure it will not be super smooth like a modern bottom bracket when spinning. The reason I ask is on the Superbe I have, when I repacked that bottom bracket it didn't spin super smooth, it would bind in some places. I made sure to check the bottom bracket on the 1980 Sport and it was also not smooth, im sure that was because the grease was old.
So any help would be appreciated.
So I finally forked over the cash for a BIKESMITH press I'm overhauling the bottom bracket on my 1979 Sport. First cotter pin was tight and ended up bending and needing to be punched out a bit, second one came out perfect.
Cleaning the parts tonight, tomorrow I'm going to repack it.
My question is this, when adjusting the bottom bracket how smooth should it be? I know I should adjust for no binding and no play, I'm sure it will not be super smooth like a modern bottom bracket when spinning. The reason I ask is on the Superbe I have, when I repacked that bottom bracket it didn't spin super smooth, it would bind in some places. I made sure to check the bottom bracket on the 1980 Sport and it was also not smooth, im sure that was because the grease was old.
So any help would be appreciated.
09-05-18, 06:11 AM
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To me it seems like much more trouble and expense to convert the BB and replace the crank than it would to just service the existing crank. Besides, the heron crank is an important to the aesthetics of these vintage roadsters. A cotter press is $59 from Bikesmith and is an excellent quality tool. The only issue that could come up is if the cotter starts to bend before it breaks loose. This does happen, but for me it has been very rare. I've rebuilt many old Raleigh BBs and I'll say that 19 times out of 20, the press will pop the cotters loose and they'll be reusable. I do always remove the cotter nuts and washers a couple days before I plan on the rebuild and fill the wells around the threads with penetrating oil. In all these years I have only had to resort to plan B twice. Although I have had instances where the cotter broke free but bent slightly and didn't fall all the way out so I had to drive it through with a punch. Then I needed to replace the cotter. Again, Bikesmith is the place to go for Raleigh cotters.
edit...It's nice to have the spanners for the adjustable cup and lock ring, but you can get by fine with a hammer, punch and channel lock pliers. And a chopstick and rag works well for cleaning the still attached fixed cup.
New Crank Cotter Press
edit...It's nice to have the spanners for the adjustable cup and lock ring, but you can get by fine with a hammer, punch and channel lock pliers. And a chopstick and rag works well for cleaning the still attached fixed cup.
New Crank Cotter Press
09-05-18, 08:09 AM
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I'm planning to make one of these:
Looks pretty straightforward and about 1/10 the price of the tool from Bikesmith.
Looks pretty straightforward and about 1/10 the price of the tool from Bikesmith.
09-05-18, 09:46 AM
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Here's a good looking late 50s 21" Sports near Beantown at a reasonable asking price. Even has a usable looking non-orginal leather saddle.
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bi...687976698.html
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bi...687976698.html
09-05-18, 12:26 PM
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Here's a good looking late 50s 21" Sports near Beantown at a reasonable asking price. Even has a usable looking non-orginal leather saddle.
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bi...687976698.html
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bi...687976698.html
breaking apart or rusting out. If only we manufactured products today with that ethos.
09-05-18, 01:03 PM
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1950 Claud Butler
All British Cycle Event coming up...
Bronze-welded 'All-rounder' frame, Alloy AW hub, Chater Lea cranks, Weber pedals, Reynolds stem, GB Sport alloy brakes, Bayliss Wiley front hub and bottom bracket. Total weight with fenders about 24 pounds.
09-05-18, 08:46 PM
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Here's a good looking late 50s 21" Sports near Beantown at a reasonable asking price. Even has a usable looking non-orginal leather saddle.
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bi...687976698.html
https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bi...687976698.html
09-05-18, 09:26 PM
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Still working on this one - many kinks to work out. It started as a quadrant shifter - the rest of the bike followed. 
09-05-18, 09:48 PM
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09-06-18, 05:43 AM
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Wouldn't that be nice. Even looks possible to be an alloy shell. But, like you say, that shifter looks pretty original. This is the kind of bike I hate to pass up, but I have to until I unload some past projects. I can tell, even in these pictures that it would polish and clean up to one of those beautiful patinas. Pre TI, all there except for the saddle and grips, transfers look good, no bad rust and even a good later Brooks. It's a good one.
09-06-18, 05:45 AM
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Nice! Seeing this gets me thinking about super light roadster projects again.
09-06-18, 05:51 AM
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09-06-18, 06:03 AM
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A close-up of the hub shell would clarify this.
09-06-18, 09:42 PM
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I recently inherited a couple old cameras from my grandfather, one of which is an early 1950s Voigtländer Perkeo II in excellent working condition. I took it out for a test run a few days ago, and felt that my ANT roadster would be a good subject:
*
09-07-18, 04:51 AM
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09-07-18, 06:29 AM
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*
*Nice.
They go well together, the camera and bike that is. Looks to be 6x6 format?*
09-07-18, 06:35 AM
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Two questions:
1) What film did you use?
2) Did you develop and print this yourself?
I have toyed with the idea of getting another film camera, but digital is just so darned easy that it is hard to justify the expense.
Thanks for sharing that!
.
*
__________________
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
09-07-18, 09:36 AM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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I would get it for the parts. My own 22" Tourist is much rattier than this one and those rod brake pieces could come in handy someday if I ever take mine down off the hook and get it into the stand.
09-07-18, 09:40 AM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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A dl-1 with one crank arm and missing the seat stays. Well, at least the price is right. It could be a project. Any 28" wheels in there? Fenders?
I see that you already have a DL-1 so, that frees you up to get creative. The seat stays can be fabricated. This can even be a point of creativity. Polished Aluminum perhaps?
Did you grab it? Is this a project for you then? If so, keep us up to date on the plans and how things are going.
I see that you already have a DL-1 so, that frees you up to get creative. The seat stays can be fabricated. This can even be a point of creativity. Polished Aluminum perhaps?
Did you grab it? Is this a project for you then? If so, keep us up to date on the plans and how things are going.
