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Opinion on Dodgy Head Tube Cut

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Old 03-09-23, 04:55 PM
  #51  
Jeff Neese
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Originally Posted by smd4
I still don’t think it would be a problem, but up to $495 + shipping seem steep for damaged goods.
I was thinking that $495 is insane for any aluminum frame.
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Old 03-09-23, 05:07 PM
  #52  
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decided to dig a bit deeper into this type of frame... it seems they have some history surrounding the thin head tubes and Cracks..... and one of the best in frame repairs passed on doing a repair.....
https://www.roadbikereview.com/threa...-repair.25047/
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Old 03-09-23, 05:51 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by maddog34
That is a Colnago in it's proper glory
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Old 03-09-23, 06:04 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by CW Zing
It looks to me like the front of the head tube has been hogged out some.

I like the idea above about milling the tube down to the bottom of the crack which should help clean up the seat for the headset.

A couple of years ago the Colnago Dream frames were significantly less than either the steel or carbon fiber frames. Whew, prices seem to have bounced up quite a bit.

Before you purchase, look at Colnago forks. I can't tell if it is 1" or 1 1/8".

Colnago frequently used black (carbon) or silver (chrome steel) forks on their frames.

That may be a Colnago Flash fork (black carbon fork + steel steer tube, I think), but verify steer tube size.

If I was purchasing the frame, I'd give myself an allowance of $200 for the missing fork.

So, you get:

$495 + $60 shipping + $200 fork = $755. Plus the cost of repairs. So, consider you're into it about $800 or so.
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Old 03-09-23, 07:30 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
That is a Colnago in it's proper glory
Man that’s perfect, thanks for posting!
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Old 03-09-23, 07:48 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
That is a Colnago in it's proper glory
other than those zebra stripe stem spacers...
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Old 03-09-23, 08:02 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by maddog34
other than those zebra stripe stem spacers...
And triple chainrings and straight fork…
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Old 03-09-23, 08:11 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by CliffordK
It looks to me like the front of the head tube has been hogged out some.

I like the idea above about milling the tube down to the bottom of the crack which should help clean up the seat for the headset.

A couple of years ago the Colnago Dream frames were significantly less than either the steel or carbon fiber frames. Whew, prices seem to have bounced up quite a bit.

Before you purchase, look at Colnago forks. I can't tell if it is 1" or 1 1/8".

Colnago frequently used black (carbon) or silver (chrome steel) forks on their frames.

That may be a Colnago Flash fork (black carbon fork + steel steer tube, I think), but verify steer tube size.

If I was purchasing the frame, I'd give myself an allowance of $200 for the missing fork.

So, you get:

$495 + $60 shipping + $200 fork = $755. Plus the cost of repairs. So, consider you're into it about $800 or so.
The Correct fork is most likely a 1 1/8" Look Carbon with Colnago decals added.. most of the frames shown were equipped like that. Most shown also had even worse weld finishing too. The box store "Schwinn" Prelude II i have here has better weld finishing.
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Old 03-09-23, 08:52 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by smd4
Obviously, the cut was ACROSS the top of the head tube. And doesn't go deep enough to cut through a race. If one was cutting out a race (highly unlikely, unless you're an incompetent home mechanic who saws stuff out of your bike), you would cut the race vertically, to relieve the entire length of the race.
Obviously, it wasn't cut ACROSS the top of the head tube because it is cut only on one side.

I think what you're missing is that the top race would have to be cut where it sits on top of the head tube and down inside. Done properly you'd have to cut level and straight down and you wouldn't have much of mark on either surface, but clearly someone wasn't paying attention, probably as they transitioned between the two. I would bet that what we can't see is that the cut is slightly lower inside the tube than out.
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Old 03-09-23, 08:54 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by maddog34
I got that "idea" from hard work and Experience.

Geez, get over yourself.
Just not in the bike industry - where head tubes are never notched by framebuilders.
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Old 03-09-23, 10:22 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
....

I would bet that what we can't see is that the cut is slightly lower inside the tube than out.
I'd take that bet.

Under normal circumstances, angled cuts, accross a tube (like this one)would be HIGHER on the inside so the sloping blade clears the opposite side.

The only ways for it to be lower on the inside would be if one used a keyhole saw and limited himself to 1" strokes, OR ran a hack saw blade through the tube and cut front the inside out. In that case, there would be a long shallow angle cut extending down the ID for a half inch or so.

Too bad we weren't betting, I would have enjoyed the beer.



(Didn't BF used to have a beers emoji?)

Last edited by FBinNY; 03-09-23 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 03-09-23, 10:38 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
I'd take that bet.

Under normal circumstances, angled cuts, accross a tube (like this one)would be HIGHER on the inside so the sloping blade clears the opposite side.

The only way for.it to be lower on the inside would be if one used a keyhole saw and limited himself to 1" strokes.

Too bad we weren't betting, I would have enjoyed the beer.



(Didn't BF used to have a beers emoji?)
Am I the only mechanic on earth that cut out a seatpost with one of these?



Or has ever used a Dremel 1" disc cutter? Or a Sawzall?


I have the most bizarre conversations with so-called mechanics on this forum. Mind numbing.
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Old 03-09-23, 11:29 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Am I the only mechanic on earth that cut out a seatpost with one of these?



Or has ever used a Dremel 1" disc cutter? Or a Sawzall?


I have the most bizarre conversations with so-called mechanics on this forum. Mind numbing.
Yes, that would be similar to either a keyhole saw, or a hack saw blade fed through the frame.

So, either a shallow.down angle with short strokes, or a long angle.

As I said, I would have taken the bet.

Last edited by FBinNY; 03-10-23 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 03-10-23, 12:41 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Just not in the bike industry - where head tubes are never notched by framebuilders.
hi troll.
I won't be responding to your garbage posts any longer.
good luck, #4
bye troll.

Last edited by maddog34; 03-10-23 at 02:45 AM.
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Old 03-10-23, 02:56 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by smd4
And triple chainrings and straight fork…
Ever been to Seattle? those triples would come in handy!

Last edited by maddog34; 03-10-23 at 03:02 AM.
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Old 03-10-23, 07:47 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by maddog34
hi troll.
I won't be responding to your garbage posts any longer.
good luck, #4
bye troll.
What a relief.
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Old 03-10-23, 07:57 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by maddog34
Ever been to Seattle? those triples would come in handy!
Then I'd get a hybrid or touring bike. Not a racing bike.
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Old 03-10-23, 10:32 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by maddog34
Ever been to Seattle? those triples would come in handy!
Originally Posted by smd4
Then I'd get a hybrid or touring bike. Not a racing bike.
If I had to hit steep hills regularly, it would be on the lightest bike I could find.

I've commuted over a pretty decent hill in the past. It wasn't that long of a ride, but 1/4 mile into the ride, straight up a hill. And done on the old Colnago road bike.
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Old 03-10-23, 11:17 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
I'd take that bet.

Under normal circumstances, angled cuts, accross a tube (like this one)would be HIGHER on the inside so the sloping blade clears the opposite side.



Too bad we weren't betting, I would have enjoyed the beer.



(Didn't BF used to have a beers emoji?)
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Old 03-10-23, 12:12 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by maddog34
Ever been to Seattle? those triples would come in handy!
I welcome triples in Shoreline, Seattle, LFP, etc. especially at 52 yrs of age!
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Old 03-10-23, 04:11 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
Thanks, the next one is on me.
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Old 03-15-23, 03:58 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
I would bet that what we can't see is that the cut is slightly lower inside the tube than out.
It looks to me as if there is some blue paint on the bottom of the slot. If so, the slot must have been present before the frame was painted.
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Old 03-15-23, 08:46 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by sweeks
It looks to me as if there is some blue paint on the bottom of the slot. If so, the slot must have been present before the frame was painted.
I would say you're reading alot into a blurry dark patch a few pixels wide..
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Old 03-16-23, 04:52 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
I would say you're reading alot into a blurry dark patch a few pixels wide..
Even the cut’s location doesn’t support your “theory.” Who would cut out the headset from directly in front of the top tube? You don’t think that position would be just a little awkward and difficult to do?

I have the most bizarre conversations with so-called mechanics on this forum. Mind numbing.
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Old 03-16-23, 06:39 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by smd4
Even the cut’s location doesn’t support your “theory.” Who would cut out the headset from directly in front of the top tube? You don’t think that position would be just a little awkward and difficult to do?

I have the most bizarre conversations with so-called mechanics on this forum. Mind numbing.
No, it isn't awkward if the frame is in a workstand. You take the fork out, rotate the front of the frame up to make the headtube horizontal and alternate between cutting inside the tube and down. Of if you are using a cut-off wheel you stand next to the right side of the bike, as it would be in a workstand, put the Dremel in your right hand and cut to the left for better control.

In any case, it is much easier to cut toward the frame because you can stabilize the frame with your off hand or knees, which you can't do if you stand in front of the headtube.

Have you used tools like this much? Have you ever had to cut something out of bike using a workstand? Ever worked as a mechanic? Ever used a Sawzall? Dremel? Ever cut out a seat post? Do any piping or metal fabrication?

Yeah, I didn't think so.
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