Suggestions for my night commute,Please?
#1
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Suggestions for my night commute,Please?
I work 4:00pm to anywhere from 12:30am to 4:00am.
Want to start commuting and Have almost everything but the lighting system.
I want to see and be seen and know that's not going to be cheap.
For the front I'm looking for duel lights for the handle bar and
maybe a couple of running lights for the front rack.
What's a good set up for the back? Two flashing lights and running lights on both sides of the rear rack?
As you can tell from my ride wieght is not that big of an issue,
but I would like the lights easily removed/installed so if my $40.00 Trek/$140.00 Jannd racks
were stolen,at least they wouldn't get my $150.00-$300.00 lights.
Suggestions Please?
JM
Want to start commuting and Have almost everything but the lighting system.
I want to see and be seen and know that's not going to be cheap.
For the front I'm looking for duel lights for the handle bar and
maybe a couple of running lights for the front rack.
What's a good set up for the back? Two flashing lights and running lights on both sides of the rear rack?
As you can tell from my ride wieght is not that big of an issue,
but I would like the lights easily removed/installed so if my $40.00 Trek/$140.00 Jannd racks
were stolen,at least they wouldn't get my $150.00-$300.00 lights.
Suggestions Please?
JM
#2
Arrogant Safety Nanny
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My minimum is 2 Fenix flashlights up front, one on handlebars and one on helmet ($60 or so each) and 2 Dinotte 140L AA taillights out back ($105 each on sale). I ride a 2 lane 55mph road with no shoulder and no street lights so I figured the investment in the rear lights was worth it to make sure motorists know they're approaching something unusual from as far away as possible, and nobody can ever say they didn't see me if they hit me from behind, heh. I also recently purchased a couple of cheap little amber valve stem LED lights to enhance side visibility...I don't know how well they work under the street lights in town (low pressure sodium, about the same color as the LEDs) but in the area with no street lighting they're definitely visible.
#3
Junior Member
Just got a basic 3W Dinotte from Peter White Cycles. It's pretty bright and seems to be well-made. The neat thing is it runs on 4 AA's in series. That's just about 6V. You could use a small motorcycle battery (that oughta be good for a week or so) or make up your own battery pack based on four D cell NiMH's.
#4
Arrogant Safety Nanny
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I would not buy that 3W Dinotte at Peter White. That's a discontinued model and puts out 65 lumens vs. the current model that puts out 200 lumens with the same runtime on the same batteries (that's how quickly LED technology has progressed in the last few years)...if you're going to go the Dinotte route definitely get the current model, especially considering it's triple the output for only $30 more. https://store.dinottelighting.com/sha...t=products.asp
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For the back, two of these. Ordinarily, I prefer the Flashpoints, but the mount for these are like a hose clamp, so they are easier to cinch down on something thin like a rack. Leave one on steady, the other on blinking.
For the front, two of either: Inova Bolt 2AA or Coleman MAX 2AA lights on lockblocks. Hell, get 3.
Then put plenty of reflective tape all around. I prefer DOT Conspicuity tape (the same stuff you see on semi trailers) but they don't conform well to round surfaces - but I met a guy who used zip ties to keep it wrapped around his bike. How effective was it?
I was standing at least 100' away from his bike when I took this pic with a little point n' shoot digicam. Nobody with headlights is gonna mistake who you are!
All told, about $100 - $120 for lights and lockblocks. About $50 should get you plenty of reflective tape to make yourself conspicuous (assuming you don't wrap the whole bike)
For the front, two of either: Inova Bolt 2AA or Coleman MAX 2AA lights on lockblocks. Hell, get 3.
Then put plenty of reflective tape all around. I prefer DOT Conspicuity tape (the same stuff you see on semi trailers) but they don't conform well to round surfaces - but I met a guy who used zip ties to keep it wrapped around his bike. How effective was it?
I was standing at least 100' away from his bike when I took this pic with a little point n' shoot digicam. Nobody with headlights is gonna mistake who you are!
All told, about $100 - $120 for lights and lockblocks. About $50 should get you plenty of reflective tape to make yourself conspicuous (assuming you don't wrap the whole bike)
#6
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If you can solder wire and drill precision holes you might want to build your own LED headlight and use a dynamo to power it. The latest Cree XR-E power LED will produce 220 lumen from a dynamo before you add optics. Hook up two is series with a bridge rectifier and quality Fraen optics and you have a headlight that will rival older automobile sealed beam headlights. Here is a link that shows how to make LED headlights and the very simple circuits involved for both dynamo and battery powered headlights and taillights.
https://pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/...lectronics.htm
https://pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/...lectronics.htm
#7
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Check out this thread.
#8
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Commercial lights fall into 1 of 3 categories.
1. Expensive systems with okay light but...damn
2. Cheap systems with poor light that shout 'Why bother?'
3. Repurposed flashlights that may or may not have the optics you need.
Lots of people like the Fenix lights. I have one on my key chain and it is indeed a bright light. Better than the cheap lights. It's a pretty good 'it'll do light'. The tiny size has the advantage of weight but tiny also means easily lost.
The expensive systems are just way too expensive for what you get. They tend to be a few generations back and it would be best to wait until next year or the next or...
One of the mistakes that first time night riders make is to underestimate how much light you'll need for urban riding. Your situation is particularly hazardous. People just don't expect to see cyclists out at that time of night. You need something that demands attention! Don't go with a light that you can just get by with.
n4zou has already chimed in with his idea. His lights are good however they are somewhat complicated. You'll need a dynamo hub or some kind of generator. It's not something you can take off if you don't want to carry it around all the time. You'll need some knowledge of electronics. (If you can make heads or tails of the link, especially the Dynamo LED page, you are a better man then I. What the hell is D1 to D4?)
If you know a little about electricity...like how a switch works and how to wire a very simple circuit, look at my lights. (I think I've linked to the Pond Scum light too which is an excellent light.) The light output of these lights are far above any commercial LED system or commercial HID systems. The run time isn't as long as the LED you can get (although close) and the weight is much higher but the results are spectacular for around a $200 investment.
1. Expensive systems with okay light but...damn
2. Cheap systems with poor light that shout 'Why bother?'
3. Repurposed flashlights that may or may not have the optics you need.
Lots of people like the Fenix lights. I have one on my key chain and it is indeed a bright light. Better than the cheap lights. It's a pretty good 'it'll do light'. The tiny size has the advantage of weight but tiny also means easily lost.
The expensive systems are just way too expensive for what you get. They tend to be a few generations back and it would be best to wait until next year or the next or...
One of the mistakes that first time night riders make is to underestimate how much light you'll need for urban riding. Your situation is particularly hazardous. People just don't expect to see cyclists out at that time of night. You need something that demands attention! Don't go with a light that you can just get by with.
n4zou has already chimed in with his idea. His lights are good however they are somewhat complicated. You'll need a dynamo hub or some kind of generator. It's not something you can take off if you don't want to carry it around all the time. You'll need some knowledge of electronics. (If you can make heads or tails of the link, especially the Dynamo LED page, you are a better man then I. What the hell is D1 to D4?)
If you know a little about electricity...like how a switch works and how to wire a very simple circuit, look at my lights. (I think I've linked to the Pond Scum light too which is an excellent light.) The light output of these lights are far above any commercial LED system or commercial HID systems. The run time isn't as long as the LED you can get (although close) and the weight is much higher but the results are spectacular for around a $200 investment.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#9
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Get yourself a Planet Bike Superflash for rear visibility (or Two) and the best front light you can afford.
Cygolite makes some decent LED lights for the money. The DualCross is quite good.
Cygolite makes some decent LED lights for the money. The DualCross is quite good.
#10
Scott
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n4zou has already chimed in with his idea. His lights are good however they are somewhat complicated. You'll need a dynamo hub or some kind of generator. It's not something you can take off if you don't want to carry it around all the time. You'll need some knowledge of electronics. (If you can make heads or tails of the link, especially the Dynamo LED page, you are a better man then I. What the hell is D1 to D4?)
Another suggestion if you can't DIY your own stuff is the purchase of a dynamo kit with everything you need and simply bolts on. If you can attach a blinkie and plug in a wire you can install a dynamo kit. These are not as bright as the latest generation of LED dynamo lights but they are quality German made lights with long life Halogen bulbs. Don't expect to get as much light as a cyccommute mr-16 halogen bulb and battery setup but one of those union dynamo kits will provide enough light for your commute and freedom from batteries.
https://www.yellowjersey.org/dynamos.html
#11
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D=Diode and there are 4 diodes of the same type.
Another suggestion if you can't DIY your own stuff is the purchase of a dynamo kit with everything you need and simply bolts on. If you can attach a blinkie and plug in a wire you can install a dynamo kit. These are not as bright as the latest generation of LED dynamo lights but they are quality German made lights with long life Halogen bulbs. Don't expect to get as much light as a cyccommute mr-16 halogen bulb and battery setup but one of those union dynamo kits will provide enough light for your commute and freedom from batteries.
Another suggestion if you can't DIY your own stuff is the purchase of a dynamo kit with everything you need and simply bolts on. If you can attach a blinkie and plug in a wire you can install a dynamo kit. These are not as bright as the latest generation of LED dynamo lights but they are quality German made lights with long life Halogen bulbs. Don't expect to get as much light as a cyccommute mr-16 halogen bulb and battery setup but one of those union dynamo kits will provide enough light for your commute and freedom from batteries.
As for dynamos, different strokes. I look at batteries as freedom from dynamos.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#12
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Front:
2 x UltraFire Cree C3 Flashlight with 2xAA
2 x Universal Bicycle Mount
Rear:
2 x Planet Bike Blinky Super Flash
Good light combo with very good run times (front lights) and use standard batteries (AA and AAA)
2 x UltraFire Cree C3 Flashlight with 2xAA
2 x Universal Bicycle Mount
Rear:
2 x Planet Bike Blinky Super Flash
Good light combo with very good run times (front lights) and use standard batteries (AA and AAA)