Shimano 600 7-speed cassette (?) tool
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Shimano 600 7-speed cassette (?) tool
I'm overhauling a 1989 Miyata 1400 and was surprised to find what I think is a cassette-style rear hub rather than a thread-on freewheel--none of my freewheel tools are even a close fit. Can someone help me figure out what tool I need to remove this?
I have a 13-21 thread-on freewheel that I was looking forward to installing but I guess that's not going to work here: are these cassettes readily available in different sizes?
I have a 13-21 thread-on freewheel that I was looking forward to installing but I guess that's not going to work here: are these cassettes readily available in different sizes?
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you can use any Hyperglide cassette on that Uniglide freehub body, but you will need to use the existing 13t threaded cog to retain it, and you will need to shorten each of the HG cog's longest internal splines (most easily by using a chainsaw file and with the cog held in a vise).
A small-sized Uniglide 7s cassette in the 13-23t size would be more easily sourced than a larger one, if you want to keep things all-stock.
Perhaps just buying the 23t cog and deleting the 16t cog would net you a proper 13-23t cassette(?).
A small-sized Uniglide 7s cassette in the 13-23t size would be more easily sourced than a larger one, if you want to keep things all-stock.
Perhaps just buying the 23t cog and deleting the 16t cog would net you a proper 13-23t cassette(?).
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I think you need two chain whips to remove it. One to hold the cassette in place and the other to turn the smallest cog loose and then you can just spin it off.
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"To remove a Uniglide cassette, you use two chain whips, one to hold the cassette, the other to unscrew the smallest sprocket. Turn the smallest sprocket counterclockwise with a chain whip, while holding the cluster from turning backwards with another chain whip.A neat trick: it is also possible in an emergency to remove the smallest Uniglide sprocket without any special tools. This is covered in our article on repair tricks." Sheldon Brown
"But if you want to remove the sprockets from a freewheel or an old Uniglde Freehub, you can pace the chain on the smallest front sprocket, and remove the chain from the rear derailer. A chain with a SRAM PowerLink or other removable and replaceable link can easily be disconnected. With another chain, you may have to remove the lower (tension) pulley of the rear derailer to extract the chain, or disconnect the chain using a chain tool-- see our article on chains.With the right pedal behind top position (around 10 o'clock), wrap the lower of chain around the the outermost sprocket, starting at the bottom, and the upper run around an inner sprocket, starting at the top. The closer the two sprockets are in size the better this works. Get as much slack out of the chain as you can. If you haven't disconnected the chain, shape it into a figure-8 behind the sprockets.
Now step down on the right pedal, backpedaling. Because the outer sprocket is smaller, it will turn faster and unscrew. You may have to reposition the chain once or twice before the sprocket is completely loose.
Repeat as necessary to remove additional sprockets until you reach a splined sprocket and can lift the rest of the sprockets off. Be sure to keep all sprockets and spacers in order for replacement." Sheldon Brown
"But if you want to remove the sprockets from a freewheel or an old Uniglde Freehub, you can pace the chain on the smallest front sprocket, and remove the chain from the rear derailer. A chain with a SRAM PowerLink or other removable and replaceable link can easily be disconnected. With another chain, you may have to remove the lower (tension) pulley of the rear derailer to extract the chain, or disconnect the chain using a chain tool-- see our article on chains.With the right pedal behind top position (around 10 o'clock), wrap the lower of chain around the the outermost sprocket, starting at the bottom, and the upper run around an inner sprocket, starting at the top. The closer the two sprockets are in size the better this works. Get as much slack out of the chain as you can. If you haven't disconnected the chain, shape it into a figure-8 behind the sprockets.
Now step down on the right pedal, backpedaling. Because the outer sprocket is smaller, it will turn faster and unscrew. You may have to reposition the chain once or twice before the sprocket is completely loose.
Repeat as necessary to remove additional sprockets until you reach a splined sprocket and can lift the rest of the sprockets off. Be sure to keep all sprockets and spacers in order for replacement." Sheldon Brown
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Chain whips remove the cassette.
You can remove the freehub body with a large 6-point Allen Wrench. Is that 10mm?
With a little work, you may be able to install a 7-speed hyperglide freehub body.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/32484454096...kAAOSwoANhcamI
Type "B".
You may also be able to install a 8/9/10 speed freehub body, Type "D" above.
You can remove the freehub body with a large 6-point Allen Wrench. Is that 10mm?
With a little work, you may be able to install a 7-speed hyperglide freehub body.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/32484454096...kAAOSwoANhcamI
Type "B".
You may also be able to install a 8/9/10 speed freehub body, Type "D" above.
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Never purchase a different freehub body that doesn't come with ALL of the drive-side axle hardware and sealing pieces. This will of course only be possible with a used-part purchase since the freehub bodies are only sold new either without any hardware, or with a complete hub attached!
In other words, don't assume that a new freehub body will work with any or all of your existing drive-side axle hardware.
Additionally, a new freehub body often sits either too far out or too far in on the old hubshell (meaning not compatible).
The only way I source such replacement freehub bodies is from a discarded wheel or hub, so that 1) I will have the correct axle hardware, and 2) I can compare the new and old hubshell's for the freehub body mounting position relative to the spoke flange.
In other words, don't assume that a new freehub body will work with any or all of your existing drive-side axle hardware.
Additionally, a new freehub body often sits either too far out or too far in on the old hubshell (meaning not compatible).
The only way I source such replacement freehub bodies is from a discarded wheel or hub, so that 1) I will have the correct axle hardware, and 2) I can compare the new and old hubshell's for the freehub body mounting position relative to the spoke flange.
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So what is that, a 12-23 7-speed? And you want 13-21 7-speed? You might be able to find the needed Uniglide cassette cogs to make a 13-21 at loosescrews.com. Just make sure the 13 threaded is NOT Dura-Ace since that threading is different.
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$50 for that was a steal!
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$50 was a steal
It's dropped from $100 when I first saw it two months back and it's still there.
It's dropped from $100 when I first saw it two months back and it's still there.
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When I considered keeping a UG hub bike, I found that racing cog sets like a 13/21 were plentiful.
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Great advice from various members about how to deal with old UG cassettes. Let me add my 2 cents to the mix:
OP, if you purchase a 9 speed HG cassette and modify the sprockets to fit your UG freehub body, you can use the 9 speed HG spacers (no modification needed) and should be able to fit a total of 8 sprockets on your 7 speed UG freehub (13T UG threaded plus 7 HG sprockets). Switch your 7-speed indexed shifter to friction. Friction shifting on HG sprockets is amazing.
Just another piece of information to consider.
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Poor impulse control strikes again... I contacted the seller and it looks like their headed my way. If it all works out I might be amendable to some horse trading.
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89 Miyata 1400....my first really nice bike and last bike i bought new.
Closely inspect around the the internal brake cable holes in the top tube for cracking, this is a known, real issues with this frame. I happened to mine
Closely inspect around the the internal brake cable holes in the top tube for cracking, this is a known, real issues with this frame. I happened to mine
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Progress ...
Wow, thanks for the great advice, everyone. I've got the cassette off:
It had 12t-22t 7-speed (I'm guessing this is how they came from the factory), so I ordered a 13t (threaded non-dura ace), 16t, and 21t from loosescrews in order to get to: 13-14-15-16-17-19-21.
Here's the bike, otherwise completely overhauled (with the wrong wheels on it):
I'll post an update when I've got the cassette reassembled and the hub reubilt.
Here's the bike, otherwise completely overhauled (with the wrong wheels on it):
I'll post an update when I've got the cassette reassembled and the hub reubilt.
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when you get this wonderful collection, would you be willing to post a clear photo of the bottom right corner of the parts diagram? That is the part that shows the two tools? I have one of the tools illustrated. I picked it up somewhere and have no idea of what it’s used for and can’t read the diagram. Thanks!
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Wow, thanks for the great advice, everyone. I've got the cassette off:
It had 12t-22t 7-speed (I'm guessing this is how they came from the factory), so I ordered a 13t (threaded non-dura ace), 16t, and 21t from loosescrews in order to get to: 13-14-15-16-17-19-21.
Here's the bike, otherwise completely overhauled (with the wrong wheels on it):
I'll post an update when I've got the cassette reassembled and the hub reubilt.
It had 12t-22t 7-speed (I'm guessing this is how they came from the factory), so I ordered a 13t (threaded non-dura ace), 16t, and 21t from loosescrews in order to get to: 13-14-15-16-17-19-21.
Here's the bike, otherwise completely overhauled (with the wrong wheels on it):
I'll post an update when I've got the cassette reassembled and the hub reubilt.
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when you get this wonderful collection, would you be willing to post a clear photo of the bottom right corner of the parts diagram? That is the part that shows the two tools? I have one of the tools illustrated. I picked it up somewhere and have no idea of what it’s used for and can’t read the diagram. Thanks!
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OP, if you purchase a 9 speed HG cassette and modify the sprockets to fit your UG freehub body, you can use the 9 speed HG spacers (no modification needed) and should be able to fit a total of 8 sprockets on your 7 speed UG freehub (13T UG threaded plus 7 HG sprockets). Switch your 7-speed indexed shifter to friction. Friction shifting on HG sprockets is amazing.
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Cool. The 13t from the original 12-22 probably has a built-in spacer but the 14t probably does not. So you may be short a spacer when making your 13-21.
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I don't recall the exact source, but I used some "Giant" grommets on my Koga Miyata. Their a little oversized but made out of rubber so I was able to coax them in well enough.
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Sorted!
Finally got this hub put back together:
You're right! The only spacer I could find came in a pack of six, which turned out to be very fortunate beacause the original spacers had little tabs that wouldn't fit under the new cogs. Like this:
Here's what the tabs look like:
The new ones I purchased didn't have the tabs:
The new spacer fits against the new cog.
Thanks, all, for the help with this! A few more pictures:
All done!
I don't know what happened to the rear skewer!
The Shimano 600 skewers are really nice: I assume the lever is aluminum?
The aforementioned buggered grommet.
I like to use JB Weld to finish the cables.
Bar wrap detail: went from top to bottom, and over the brake lever clamps. Picture perfect but we'll see how well it holds up.
Here's what the tabs look like:
The new ones I purchased didn't have the tabs:
The new spacer fits against the new cog.
Thanks, all, for the help with this! A few more pictures:
All done!
I don't know what happened to the rear skewer!
The Shimano 600 skewers are really nice: I assume the lever is aluminum?
The aforementioned buggered grommet.
I like to use JB Weld to finish the cables.
Bar wrap detail: went from top to bottom, and over the brake lever clamps. Picture perfect but we'll see how well it holds up.
Last edited by RaleighBikeGuy; 11-22-21 at 04:39 PM. Reason: error
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You're right! The only spacer I could find came in a pack of six, which turned out to be very fortunate beacause the original spacers had little tabs that wouldn't fit under the new cogs. Like this:
Here's what the tabs look like:
The new ones I purchased didn't have the tabs:
Here's what the tabs look like:
The new ones I purchased didn't have the tabs:
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As a related aside, I re-made the 7-speed cassette for my '82 Lotus Super Pro Aero over the weekend. It runs a Dura Ace AX Uniglide hub. I modified an 8-speed HG cassette and its spacers. I used the six largest HG sprockets (shortened the large tab) and the 13T UG threaded sprocket. I've not had a chance to road test yet, but it index shifts on the stand as expected.
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Last edited by pastorbobnlnh; 11-22-21 at 07:46 AM.
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Excellent choice of bar end plugs. Corks are the best. I to use wine corks that match the country of origin of the bike but that isn’t always possible.Not much wine is exported from the UK.
ps ..were you able to get a photo of that chart that shows the tools? Bottom right corner I think it was.Thanks
ps ..were you able to get a photo of that chart that shows the tools? Bottom right corner I think it was.Thanks
Last edited by Mr. Spadoni; 11-22-21 at 01:37 PM.