Cone Wrenches vs Slim Wrenches
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Cone Wrenches vs Slim Wrenches
Has anyone tried using slim wrenches instead of cone wrenches. I'm curious if I should get a specific cone wrench or set of cone wrenches (Park) for rebuilding hubs vs a slim wrench/wrench set that would also double as automotive slim wrenches. I was looking at these Capri wrenches https://capritools.com/shop/super-th...enches-metric/.
I assume someone has been down this road before. Maybe it is better to have bike specific tools where they make sense (ex. Park cassette tool, BB tools), and automotive tools for everything else (Ex. ratchets and sockets and normal wrenches from a automotive tool company).
I assume someone has been down this road before. Maybe it is better to have bike specific tools where they make sense (ex. Park cassette tool, BB tools), and automotive tools for everything else (Ex. ratchets and sockets and normal wrenches from a automotive tool company).
Likes For OldBike876:
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,489 Posts
Get cone wrenches for working on hubs. Those 'slim' wrenches get thicker as they go up in size and I'm betting the sizes needed for most hubs (15-17mm) are probably too thick.
Likes For cxwrench:
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,551
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 980 Post(s)
Liked 582 Times
in
399 Posts
Those "thin wrenches" are 2.2 to 4.6mm thick, and it doesn't say how thick the ones are that would be most likely used for bearing cones (13-15mm).
Park Tools cone wrenches are all 2.0mm thick. FWIW.
EDIT: D'oh... CXWrench beat me to it!
Park Tools cone wrenches are all 2.0mm thick. FWIW.
EDIT: D'oh... CXWrench beat me to it!
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 17
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
There is a chart if you scroll down a bit, which has the thickness of each wrench in hundredths of an inch (lol ya not great for metric). Sounds like bike specific stuff makes sense in this application.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Likes For mind_guy:
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: GMT-5
Posts: 941
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 539 Post(s)
Liked 416 Times
in
274 Posts
Cone wrenches are bike specific and are the only things that can fit in wheel hubs.
It's ok that cone wrenches are stamped from flat steel because hub nuts are of low torque.
Automotive slim wrenches will not fit into hub nuts at all, and are better suited for axle nuts which are at the ends anyways, and also pedals that don't have the hex allen.
Under no circumstances do you use cone wrenchs for pedals.
It's ok that cone wrenches are stamped from flat steel because hub nuts are of low torque.
Automotive slim wrenches will not fit into hub nuts at all, and are better suited for axle nuts which are at the ends anyways, and also pedals that don't have the hex allen.
Under no circumstances do you use cone wrenchs for pedals.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,551
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 980 Post(s)
Liked 582 Times
in
399 Posts
MKS quick-release pedals have couplers with wrench flats too thin for regular wrenches. Cone wrenches work nicely for these and, IME, don't get damaged. Park Tools cone wrenches are pretty sturdy.
Otherwise, I agree with you completely.
Otherwise, I agree with you completely.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Posts: 8,904
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2604 Post(s)
Liked 1,933 Times
in
1,213 Posts
If it helps, you really only need a couple 15 mm cone wrenches for most hubs. I use a standard metric wrench or even a Crescent adjustable wrench for the outside nuts (they're easier to keep on the nut flats than the skinny 17 mm cone wrench).
Likes For pdlamb:
#9
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,987
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6193 Post(s)
Liked 4,810 Times
in
3,318 Posts
You might could find a thin tappet wrench set. But then you'll have to buy two of them so you can have a pair of the sizes you need.
Just get the cone wrenches and be done with it!.
Just get the cone wrenches and be done with it!.
Likes For Iride01:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: GMT-5
Posts: 941
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 539 Post(s)
Liked 416 Times
in
274 Posts
The MKS quick-release couplers appear to have ample space to justify a proper pedal wrench, whereas a hub nut has only enough space for only a cone wrench.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,551
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 980 Post(s)
Liked 582 Times
in
399 Posts
A pedal wrench, Park Tool or compatible, is still the proper tool for these, because a proper pedal wrench is about 2x-3x thicker than a cone wrench.
The MKS quick-release couplers appear to have ample space to justify a proper pedal wrench, whereas a hub nut has only enough space for only a cone wrench.
The MKS quick-release couplers appear to have ample space to justify a proper pedal wrench, whereas a hub nut has only enough space for only a cone wrench.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2022
Location: GMT-5
Posts: 941
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 539 Post(s)
Liked 416 Times
in
274 Posts
I understand, please bear in mind you created a fringe point to which very few or no one at all will ever have these specific pedals.
I've seen too many people use cone wrenches in an attempt to remove pedals to which they messed up their cheap tool and scarred pedals badly.
I am almost certain MKS themselves may have a specific tool for them as anything to do with a pedal on a crank requires a PROPER tool that is both hardened enough and sufficient length to provide necessary torque that a thin short and soft cone wrench can not provide, ever.
Again, NEVER use a cone wrench for pedals, period.
I've seen too many people use cone wrenches in an attempt to remove pedals to which they messed up their cheap tool and scarred pedals badly.
I am almost certain MKS themselves may have a specific tool for them as anything to do with a pedal on a crank requires a PROPER tool that is both hardened enough and sufficient length to provide necessary torque that a thin short and soft cone wrench can not provide, ever.
Again, NEVER use a cone wrench for pedals, period.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,551
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 980 Post(s)
Liked 582 Times
in
399 Posts
I am almost certain MKS themselves may have a specific tool for them as anything to do with a pedal on a crank requires a PROPER tool that is both hardened enough and sufficient length to provide necessary torque that a thin short and soft cone wrench can not provide, ever.
"Never" is a pretty strong word; there's almost always an "off-label" use for things. How 'bout we agree that no one should use a cone wrench for removing a pedal unless it's the only tool that will work?
(Notice that I'm not asking who made you the Grand Poobah of Appropriate Tool Application! )
#14
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,519
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4355 Post(s)
Liked 3,994 Times
in
2,665 Posts
There is a reason why they make cone wrenches. If you have cones you need to tighten or loosen you the proper tool for the job. Cheap wrenches designed for other purposes are certainly not a good thing to use and in general cheap tools are only for really rich people who can afford to buy new ones or replace parts they break or strip.
#15
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,515
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2747 Post(s)
Liked 3,395 Times
in
2,056 Posts
I don't need the $60 sockets for Dana 44 and GM 14 bolt spindle nuts when the $14 ones work for the few times in my life I need to work on them.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,551
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 980 Post(s)
Liked 582 Times
in
399 Posts
Here are some images of the Park Tools pedal and cone wrenches showing their relative thicknesses and the relationship of the pedal wrench to the MKS pedal coupler.
While I agree that cone wrenches generally should not be used for other high-torque applications such as pedals or pedal couplers, there is at least one example of use of a cone wrench being successfully used for pedals. It is possible that there exists a pedal wrench slightly thinner, which would be suitable for these pedals.
On the left is the Park Tools cone wrench, next to its thicker cousin, the pedal wrench. They both seem to be made of the same hard, high-quality steel.
Park Tools pedal wrench thickness: about 4.75mm.
Park Tools cone wrench thickness: a bit over 2mm.
Here is the Park Tools pedal wrench on the flats of an MKS pedal coupler. It is clearly too thick for this application.
While I agree that cone wrenches generally should not be used for other high-torque applications such as pedals or pedal couplers, there is at least one example of use of a cone wrench being successfully used for pedals. It is possible that there exists a pedal wrench slightly thinner, which would be suitable for these pedals.
On the left is the Park Tools cone wrench, next to its thicker cousin, the pedal wrench. They both seem to be made of the same hard, high-quality steel.
Park Tools pedal wrench thickness: about 4.75mm.
Park Tools cone wrench thickness: a bit over 2mm.
Here is the Park Tools pedal wrench on the flats of an MKS pedal coupler. It is clearly too thick for this application.
Likes For sweeks:
#17
Junior Member
I understand, please bear in mind you created a fringe point to which very few or no one at all will ever have these specific pedals.
I've seen too many people use cone wrenches in an attempt to remove pedals to which they messed up their cheap tool and scarred pedals badly.
I am almost certain MKS themselves may have a specific tool for them as anything to do with a pedal on a crank requires a PROPER tool that is both hardened enough and sufficient length to provide necessary torque that a thin short and soft cone wrench can not provide, ever.
Again, NEVER use a cone wrench for pedals, period.
I've seen too many people use cone wrenches in an attempt to remove pedals to which they messed up their cheap tool and scarred pedals badly.
I am almost certain MKS themselves may have a specific tool for them as anything to do with a pedal on a crank requires a PROPER tool that is both hardened enough and sufficient length to provide necessary torque that a thin short and soft cone wrench can not provide, ever.
Again, NEVER use a cone wrench for pedals, period.
Thanks for the reminder not to use a cone wrench on my pedals that ONLY use hex fittings! Period. And reminding me that I am another "no one" with my several pair of MKS-EZ pedals.
Likes For Ross200:
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
Apparently you haven't worked on very many hubs. Over the years I have accumulated every Park cone wrench size from 13mm through 22mm (except 18mm) and have used every one on one hub or another. I even have an older Dura Ace hub that requires two 14mm cone wrenches as the locknuts aren't the usual 17mm hex but flanged nuts with a cone wrench groove. The most needed sizes are 13, 14 and 15 cone wrenches and a 17mm regular box or open end but all the others have been needed.
Likes For HillRider:
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Posts: 8,904
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2604 Post(s)
Liked 1,933 Times
in
1,213 Posts
Apparently you haven't worked on very many hubs. Over the years I have accumulated every Park cone wrench size from 13mm through 22mm (except 18mm) and have used every one on one hub or another. I even have an older Dura Ace hub that requires two 14mm cone wrenches as the locknuts aren't the usual 17mm hex but flanged nuts with a cone wrench groove. The most needed sizes are 13, 14 and 15 cone wrenches and a 17mm regular box or open end but all the others have been needed.
#20
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
I understand, please bear in mind you created a fringe point to which very few or no one at all will ever have these specific pedals.
I've seen too many people use cone wrenches in an attempt to remove pedals to which they messed up their cheap tool and scarred pedals badly.
I am almost certain MKS themselves may have a specific tool for them as anything to do with a pedal on a crank requires a PROPER tool that is both hardened enough and sufficient length to provide necessary torque that a thin short and soft cone wrench can not provide, ever.
Again, NEVER use a cone wrench for pedals, period.
I've seen too many people use cone wrenches in an attempt to remove pedals to which they messed up their cheap tool and scarred pedals badly.
I am almost certain MKS themselves may have a specific tool for them as anything to do with a pedal on a crank requires a PROPER tool that is both hardened enough and sufficient length to provide necessary torque that a thin short and soft cone wrench can not provide, ever.
Again, NEVER use a cone wrench for pedals, period.
I can't post links, but just search "MKS pedal wrench 173."
That being said, I've used a cone wrench to install EZY pedals without damage to the wrench or pedal flats.
Likes For Gary Young:
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Menomonee Falls, WI
Posts: 1,834
Bikes: 1984 Schwinn Supersport, 1988 Trek 400T, 1977 Trek TX900, 1982 Bianchi Champione del Mondo, 1978 Raleigh Supercourse, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 1991 Waterford PDG OS Paramount, 1971 Schwinn Sports Tourer, 1985 Trek 670
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 604 Post(s)
Liked 1,064 Times
in
535 Posts
Thought about buying cone wrenches for hub rebuilding, and probably will eventually, but so far no issues using 2 small (4 in) adjustable wrenches, when rebuilding vintage hubs.
Tim
Tim
#22
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,515
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2747 Post(s)
Liked 3,395 Times
in
2,056 Posts
Likes For dedhed:
#23
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Thanks for the links. Just noticed this statement on the MKS product pages for EZY pedals:
"A thin pedal spanner (15 mm wrench flat with under 3.2 mm thickness) is required for initial attachment of the adapter.
For the installation of Ezy Superior, we recommend you to use dedicated MKS original PEDAL SPANNER or thin wheel hub spanner."
Again, I can't post a link, but that statement is near the bottom of MKS pages about EZY pedals. It seems MKS is okay with using cone wrenches to install their pedals.
"A thin pedal spanner (15 mm wrench flat with under 3.2 mm thickness) is required for initial attachment of the adapter.
For the installation of Ezy Superior, we recommend you to use dedicated MKS original PEDAL SPANNER or thin wheel hub spanner."
Again, I can't post a link, but that statement is near the bottom of MKS pages about EZY pedals. It seems MKS is okay with using cone wrenches to install their pedals.
Likes For Gary Young:
#24
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,626
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3888 Post(s)
Liked 6,485 Times
in
3,209 Posts
I was looking at these Capri wrenches https://capritools.com/shop/super-th...enches-metric/.
If you're trying to save money, buy the double-headed Park tools from eBay for around $9/ea (shipped) in the specific sizes you need for your particular bike(s).
I only have three Park wrenches: two 13/14mm (dcw-1) and one 15/16mm (dcw-2). Sometimes it would be handy to have an additional dcw-2. But I get by well enough with those three, an adjustable wrench, and my socket set.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bastrop Texas
Posts: 4,479
Bikes: Univega, Peu P6, Peu PR-10, Ted Williams, Peu UO-8, Peu UO-18 Mixte, Peu Dolomites
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 966 Post(s)
Liked 1,629 Times
in
1,045 Posts
I have used both and been satisfied. The best set I have is "Sunlite" but if you can afford it "Park" rules the roost. I would advise you to avoid the many Multi wrench types that have two different sizes in one.
__________________
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)