RoadWearier

Good news is that the frame is steel but no braze-ons at all.
I found these three on Amazon...


I can see already that the cheapest one will wiggle from side to side. The other 2 look good but I'd like to find a cheaper alternative since I'll have to also.buy panniers as well. Any suggestions?

flangehead

I know I could not install a rack like “Universal” on my road bike due to lack of both braze-on and threads at rear dropout.

I have used a product similar to “ThreeH” for a light load on top, but I can’t hang a pannier since there is no lateral support.

The “ROCKBROS” might overcome that problem but I don’t have any direct experience with that configuration.

pdlamb

I may get flamed for being non-responsive, but here goes anyway. Pay up front and get some good racks and good panniers. The racks don't have to be Tubus, but don't be afraid to spend some money to get good bracing (with p-clamps since you don't have braze-ons). I've been commuting for most of the last 15 years with Ortlieb panniers. Amortized over that time, the cost per year isn't too bad. If you're worried about cost, figure out what you're paying for gas and parking. I've cut my gas cost by 2/3 bike commuting (one fill-up per month instead of three), and that savings adds up pretty fast.

Your second rack (seat post mount) may be OK with a rack-top bag, but, depending on streets and traffic, you may have problems with bag sway. I've had good luck with one that looks like your first option, although I don't know anything about the materials or metallurgy of that rack. I'd feel more confident buying a rack from REI with its return policy than from Amazon.

RoadWearier

I can get this one for $20. Hard to pass up. I'm going to ride t the sellers house and put it on then and there. So if there is missing hardware or it doesn't fit I won't be out money

RCMoeur 

Seatpost-clamp beam racks don't typically work with panniers for two reasons: there's nothing to stop the pannier from swinging into the rear wheel, and if the pannier uses a lower hook to stay on the rack there's nothing for it to hook onto. They also generally weigh a metric ton, relatively speaking. But they're good for racktop bags on rear-suspension bikes, as I have on my GT.

You say your frame has no "braze-ons"; e.g. eyelets for rack mounting. I presume this means none on the seatstays or the dropouts. As for the dropouts, Blackburn made a adapter to use the center cutout in most older road bike dropouts into an eyelet - an eBay search should readily turn some up. Mounting to the seatstays simply uses P-clamps as other have mentioned.

Colorado Kid

I think your heading down the right path but you have to be looking at a better rack. The weight of a pannier and it bouncing around (With a load.) can and will wreck havoc with it. If money is tight, go to E-bay for a good deal on top rated racks and panniers.

RoadWearier

Sorry here's the one I can get for $20. Mounts on the seat tube and seat stays.

soyabean

A pannier rack is NEVER supposed to mount on a seatpost and dropouts at the same time.

It's one or the other.

Your LBS will have proper name brand racks and will help you choose the one that fits the bike's geometry.

I have an Axiom DLX that does 50kg.

RoadWearier

Wow. You seem to feel strongly about this. Why can't a luggage rack mount to a seat post and dropouts?

soyabean

Because it's just gripped onto the seatpost by tension.

Bikes with rear suspensions can only use pannier racks that grip onto seatposts, nowhere else, and thus, are made for extremely light loads. Any trauma to this kind of rack usually just safely twists it out of position, no harm here.

However, I've seen the haphazard chinese rack that clamps to both the seatpost and fastens the axle... on a rear suspension bike. The rider has essentially turned their rear suspension bike into a hardtail at the mercy of the haphazard rack to hold up, plus the rider is given false confidence to carry a heavier load that will succumb to catastrophic failure. Pull a stunt like this in the automotive world and you can expect lawsuits to follow.

For the bikes that don't have any bosses for the front of the pannier racks, there are seatpost clamps that add bosses for rack to properly fasten to.

Go visit your LBS and see if they'll sell you any haphazard racks. I know Axiom, Thule, Filzer don't make any for these explained reasons.

RoadWearier

I appreciate the advice, but the seatpost end has a clamp on it. And you know this is for a road bike, right? No rear suspension.

groovestew

FWIW, In my limited experience, a seatpost rack raises the weight of the load you're putting on it (compared to a "normal" rack) and noticeably changes the handling of the bike. It's a viable solution, but when I tried a seatpost rack, I hated it.

RoadWearier

Ok. Maybe I'll bag the whole idea and just see how I do with a largish backpack.

spdntrxi

I have the one with the little mud fender on my ebike. Slight rattle or rough stuff ( curbs, light gravel) but otherwise I like it for the price. Got some cheap panniers from Public which are good enough for a grocery run.

Korina

Have you considered a front rack and basket? A pic of the bike would really help.

RoadWearier

It's a 1982 (I think) Medici Pro Strada. Basically an old steel road bike. Not sure but I think the bars are too narrow for a front basket.

I still don't understand what is mechanically wrong with the rack that mounts to seat post and seat stays

Darth Lefty 

It's definitely a racing/training bike. A nice example. The people who made it so long ago did not intend for racks and panniers. You are supposed to use a saddlebag. The more expensive it was, the thinner the tubing for the stays. So people are worrying on your behalf those will be crushed or bent or just scratched or otherwise assaulted. Or that by clamping something to them you will somehow spoil the ride by reinforcing things that are supposed to be springy.

I've had a couple of old steel road bikes with a top bag on the rear, and they would get head shake / tank slapping if I sat up straight riding hands off, especially at higher speed.

Although not everyone will agree, I say backpack.

RoadWearier

Ok. Sounds good. I really just wanted something I could put on for light grocery shopping (bread at the bread store, tomatoes at the farmers market). I can probably just pull that off with the backpack I have. There are messenger bags for sale near me but I'm not convinced of the advantages.

tFUnK

How about something like this?

Polaris OBark

Nothing (for a road bike or a hard-tail), but a seat post clamp that allows for rack mounting is a bit better, because it sits lower and you can move the seat post without issue.





Does your fork by any chance include low rider mounts? If so, you might be better off with the load low and in the front.

Polaris OBark

I have 2 or 3 of those. I got them for about $35 on Amazon. They work great (although I haven't had to mount them in the way the OP will require).

rekmeyata

The best quality one is the Rock Bros, they claim it can hold 110 pounds securely.

The others on your list are poorly made ones, they may claim X amount of weight, but like generic headlights that claim 20,000 lumens when the reality is they only do 200 lumens, these generic racks will be the same sort of thing.

RoadWearier

FWIW...thought I'd follow up. Found a Topeak Gtx(?) Bag and accompanying rack for $40! Quite a deal. Went straight to Home Depot for P clamps for $2.

Pros...Very slick. Very easy on and off for the bags.
P clamps...worked well but a little fiddly to get on. Definitely tighten a little bit at a time. And use nylon nuts!

Cons..As mentioned on here before. The bags definitely rattle when on the bike but I think it's a fair trade off.
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tFUnK

Glad you found something that worked.

I recently played around with my road bike. Not sure if it would have made an impact on your decision.

Axiom Streamliner rear rack, mounted to the rear brake bolt and rear QR.

cyccommute 

Dump the P-clamps. They are terrible. Measure your stays and get the proper size of these clamps from Tubus. Much easier to install and much stronger. I’ve used them for both the upper and lower attachments without issues.