single speed/fixie chain length
10-30-23, 11:16 AM
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single speed/fixie chain length
First time putting a single speed chain on a new bike. I followed the Park Tools video instructions, and this is where I am. It's not all the way to the end but it's a bit close. Should I shorten it? Their reasoning for the extra links was to allow removal of the wheel.
10-30-23, 12:58 PM
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To test, loosen your axle limit screws to the desired depth, move the wheel forward, and see if you can double a section of chain. My eyeball estimate says, yes, you can safely remove one pair of links.
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10-30-23, 01:37 PM
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A pair of links will move the wheel 1/2". You can do that easily. But you will also see why I far prefer bike frames with old-school horizontal road dropouts. Far easier to remove the rear wheel with it not mattering at all where the hub is in the dropout. And limit screws on a steel frame and good toothed track nuts are rarely needed, even for the gorillas out there. (I've never seen them in the photos I've found of Nelson Vails, a rather formidable pure track sprinter. Those limit screws do however slow ever wheel removal until you get tired of them and remove 'em. (Now, if you always run the same cog and chainwheel, the equivalent screws on road dropouts are wonderful. Set them for correct chain slack and you do not have to think at all to put the wheel back in. Slide it back until you hit the screws. Done. Chain slack is perfect.)
Where you have the wheel placed now is just fine. Plenty of clamping. Eventually the chain will "stretch" and put the wheel about an 1/8" further back. That will be a little marginal.
Where you have the wheel placed now is just fine. Plenty of clamping. Eventually the chain will "stretch" and put the wheel about an 1/8" further back. That will be a little marginal.
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10-30-23, 04:06 PM
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While people speak about adjusting chain tension, it's really about adjusting for proper slack.
There must always be b some slack, and because sprockets are rarely concentric, the slack will vary. Turn the cranks and watch to find the tightest position, then position the wheel so there's at least 1/8" of sag at the middle.
There must always be b some slack, and because sprockets are rarely concentric, the slack will vary. Turn the cranks and watch to find the tightest position, then position the wheel so there's at least 1/8" of sag at the middle.
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10-30-23, 08:18 PM
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agree with your assessment. Had a Bianchi track bike, no screws. My eyeball says the same.
10-30-23, 08:30 PM
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the how long subject is settled...
the adjusting screws can make wheel removal a bit tricky...
i tend to derail the chain off the chainring, then derail it off the rear sprocket,... the wheel is then easily removed.
this leaves the axle position adjusters where they need to be... installation is the opposite of removal.. slip axle into dropouts, rear on, front on, finger tighten nuts, TEST/check for proper everything, tighten.
the adjusting screws can make wheel removal a bit tricky...
i tend to derail the chain off the chainring, then derail it off the rear sprocket,... the wheel is then easily removed.
this leaves the axle position adjusters where they need to be... installation is the opposite of removal.. slip axle into dropouts, rear on, front on, finger tighten nuts, TEST/check for proper everything, tighten.
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10-30-23, 10:12 PM
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A pair of links will move the wheel 1/2". You can do that easily. But you will also see why I far prefer bike frames with old-school horizontal road dropouts. Far easier to remove the rear wheel with it not mattering at all where the hub is in the dropout. And limit screws on a steel frame and good toothed track nuts are rarely needed, even for the gorillas out there. (I've never seen them in the photos I've found of Nelson Vails, a rather formidable pure track sprinter.
10-31-23, 10:54 AM
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10-31-23, 03:09 PM
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Maybe some brand manager will read this thread and get around to making a single-speed bike with forward-facing horizontal dropouts.
