Buy new vs Build new
07-20-23, 05:06 PM
#26
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The only way to answer this is to work up a spreadsheet with all the components and their costs: Frame, Groupset, [Wheels], Stem, Bars, Seatpost, Saddle, [Pedals], Bar Tape. Then you start hunting around the internet for the best closeout deals, etc. Typically, buying a new complete bike is cheaper. However, if you can find good closeout deals on components and frame you want, it could be less expensive or comparable to build it yourself. I find that process kind of fun, and you end up with a more unique bike. But some people don't care about that or don't want to be bothered.
Don't forget to factor in the extra cost of purchasing any tools you don't already own that you need for a proper build (or the cost of paying a mechanic)
Don't forget to factor in the extra cost of purchasing any tools you don't already own that you need for a proper build (or the cost of paying a mechanic)
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07-20-23, 08:52 PM
#27
Newbie
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by urbanknight;[url=tel:22959048
22959048[/url]]Just to reiterate, I suggest you keep the stock parts so you can throw them back on when you sell the bike and toss the "custom" parts on whatever you buy next (assuming compatibility)... unless you specifically want to buy newer stuff each time. I ride a 54cm bike but always swap to 170 cranks, 80mm stem, and 40cm bars (and the bars are on their 3rd bike). The stock 172.5, 100, and 42 are in my garage waiting.
07-20-23, 10:27 PM
#28
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my considerations, wheels out of the equation
1. When buying NEW, do I have a clear idea of what parts I's swap put? Stems, bars, saddle, chain, even cassettes are relative most inexpensive parts and an easy swap.
2. Key is drivetrain & wheels (wheels not considered) is the drivetrain combination I'm wanting PROVEN to work well in the config That I'd buy? Better than the stock drivetrain?
3. Warrenty - buy a Complete bike from dealer comes with best, fullest consideration of warranty, with leasthassle. Buy a frame and build yourself, then it's only an individual warranty for frame, and each separate part... Doing warranty direct with multiple different companies (likely for the parts you pick) is way bigger hassle than bringing the entire bike to your dealer.
4. Do the Math - find the place/price of every component you need and price each item out, including all the necessary small crap, including tools you'll need to do the build properly. Then compare to price of the stock bike, and then consider time and frustration of the build. Some 'groove' on doing a build and making it perfect. Others, not so tolerant.
Stock bike is built, what you do is adjust to your setup likes...
how much difference? Is the difference worth everything you will go thru?
Buying stock, I think the biggest issue is deciding which shop, you Trust, to buy from.
Stock bikes are always among the top performers in their price/use categories (not Big Box stuff) , Individual builds not always.
Ride On
Yuri
1. When buying NEW, do I have a clear idea of what parts I's swap put? Stems, bars, saddle, chain, even cassettes are relative most inexpensive parts and an easy swap.
2. Key is drivetrain & wheels (wheels not considered) is the drivetrain combination I'm wanting PROVEN to work well in the config That I'd buy? Better than the stock drivetrain?
3. Warrenty - buy a Complete bike from dealer comes with best, fullest consideration of warranty, with leasthassle. Buy a frame and build yourself, then it's only an individual warranty for frame, and each separate part... Doing warranty direct with multiple different companies (likely for the parts you pick) is way bigger hassle than bringing the entire bike to your dealer.
4. Do the Math - find the place/price of every component you need and price each item out, including all the necessary small crap, including tools you'll need to do the build properly. Then compare to price of the stock bike, and then consider time and frustration of the build. Some 'groove' on doing a build and making it perfect. Others, not so tolerant.
Stock bike is built, what you do is adjust to your setup likes...
how much difference? Is the difference worth everything you will go thru?
Buying stock, I think the biggest issue is deciding which shop, you Trust, to buy from.
Stock bikes are always among the top performers in their price/use categories (not Big Box stuff) , Individual builds not always.
Ride On
Yuri
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07-24-23, 06:51 PM
#29
Newbie
IMO I would custom build. I am a smaller rider and basically very few if any bikes comes with the right size components kits stock. With this said I recently built up a Specialized Aethos and really built it to my spec, thus 165mm cranks, 38cm wide bars, 90mm stem and since I picked my parts I got to mix and match SRAM AXS parts thus saving me money and putting the money to the parts I valued more. I also didn't use Specialized parts for the handlebar, stem, and saddle and instead went with Prime Primavera carbon parts which are lighter and much cheaper. I didn't go with Roval wheels and instead with Elite Wheels Drive Series and then switched to some 9Velo LV wheels. My two wheelsets literally cost less than I would have paid for 1 set of the Roval Alpinist LX II. Now if you are a Specialized purist or believe groupsets shouldn't be mixed or matched than my build is pretty triggering to some but IMO I pretty much built a Aethos Pro for about $1785 less or if you count my spare wheelset $785 less
07-26-23, 09:26 PM
#30
Full Member
How light were you able to get that bike? You basically described my exact specs. Current bike has 165mm cranks and 38cm Prime Primavera Bars although I had to go 100mm stem for the bike. I keep going back and forth on building and what frame. Already have backup 38cm carbon bars on the way.
IMO the Primavera Carbon finishing kit is such an awesome deal with great performance. I got the carbon bars, stem, and saddle for $400 shipped which is less than what you would pay for the Roval Alpinist SL bars
If you are willing to not use Specialized/Roval parts and mix and match groupset levels yeah I would 100% recommend to build "custom" since it can be much cheaper and again for you can reuse some of your parts
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07-28-23, 11:57 AM
#31
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Build new, get exactly what you want 15.5 lbs with pedals and cages.
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__________________
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Shad
I knew where I was when I wrote this
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05 Gunnar Roadie Chorus/Record
67'er
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07-29-23, 05:19 AM
#32
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That's really only something you can answer. How much are you changing ? Just wheels? Get the whole bike, slap on your carbon wheel set and now you have your fast wheel set and training/rain wheel set.
If you are only keeping the frame set and you are good at selling stuff still get the whole bike. Your frame set will be much cheaper after you sell everything off. All your parts will be brand new. you can probably sell them for 70% of there new value.
If you hate the hassle of facebook/craigslist haggling over a few bucks for each item you are selling just buy the frame set.
I have enough parts laying around now if I can find a used frame set in my size and color at good price I would buy it.
If you are only keeping the frame set and you are good at selling stuff still get the whole bike. Your frame set will be much cheaper after you sell everything off. All your parts will be brand new. you can probably sell them for 70% of there new value.
If you hate the hassle of facebook/craigslist haggling over a few bucks for each item you are selling just buy the frame set.
I have enough parts laying around now if I can find a used frame set in my size and color at good price I would buy it.
08-02-23, 09:33 AM
#33
I like speed
I've found that the only advantage in building your own bike is that you're able to spec each part. I've built all the bikes from framesets in the last 3 years which has been 4. It's cheaper to buy a complete bike however changing contact points (saddle, handlebars, tape) is a given.
