FL_Gator

I’m starting to contemplate a new Spec Roubaix when the new models release but I am annoyed by the process of changing bar widths, stems, crank lengths, and cassette ratios on a brand new bike to match my needs. From a purely financial perspective is it less expensive to buy stock and make these changes, selling the removed stock parts on eBay.. or would building up a frame set ultimately prove out similar cost with less buy/sell hassle?
I’m not new to a complete frame up build, it’s just a money question.

Steve B.

Always cheaper to buy complete. New bar, cassette and crank might be $200-$300 extra, maybe talk with the shop to negotiate swapping some parts.

jaxgtr

I think depending on what your looking to build and what parts you already have, it might be cheaper to build a frame. If you are not under a time constraint, then you can find your parts and then build it as you go. I have a bunch of parts in my bin and would not need too much to build a bike, on the other hand, if you don't and are just going to replace maybe tires, wheels, or maybe a cassette, I would go complete bike.

FL_Gator

This is exactly what I was wondering, I thought you would likely be getting a reasonable discount on the components when purchased complete vs buying separately. Thanks for the feedback!

Steve B.

The OP doesn’t actually mention owning key parts, that then becomes a math question for of what ya got vs. what you need to buy

FL_Gator

The only thing I have that I would consider using on a new build is a great set of wheels. Everything else would be new.

Mtracer

Assuming buying a new bike or new components, not using left over things you already have or buying used parts, a full bike seems like it is always the better deal. It is possible to spec a new bike from some sources. I happen to be picking up a new Trek Domane Project One bike tomorrow that allows for spec'ing all the things and various sizes etc. But, this is only offered on the most high-end, stupid expensive models.

I have a friend that had a custom build done by a bike shop. I'm pretty sure it was a lot less expensive than if he had bought the parts at full retail. But of course he had to pay them to build it. It's at least worth a conversation with some of the LBS's in your area.

The other thing though, while building the bike yourself is actually the most expensive way to go, it also would be fun itself. So, maybe just having that experience makes it worth it. It shouldn't always be about what gets you the least expensive bike. It might be for some people, but doesn't have to be for all.

PeteHski

You could always buy a complete bike and then strip it down and rebuild it just for fun.

Mtracer

I like how you think.

Maybe take it a step further and take it apart and rebuild it blindfolded. Like you see people do with guns in the movies!

FL_Gator

Great points and I completely agree. I just did a frame up build about 18 months ago, fun to do but I’m good on that for a while. Just looking at cost vs frustration this go around, not in a hurry. I’ll talk to my LBS about swapping parts but if they won’t it sounds like buying stock and selling the takeoffs might be the best route. Thanks for all the advice.

jaxgtr

Ok, then, the next question would be, of the bikes you are considering, how many parts would you actually change? If you are really considering changing all of the stuff in your original post, I would go definitely go with frame build and get exactly what you want up front. Why waste time and money and the hassle of all of that and then the hassle of selling the take off's. I don't consider saddles\tires in this model as I generally always swap those for what I like.

So for me, if I buy a new bike, I know I am going to change the saddle, tires and stem. Bike manufacturers seem to think a 90mm stem is appropriate for a 54cm , but I know each person is built differently, and I ride a 120mm stem. Short arms, legs, but a longer torso. I can deal with either the 170 or 172.5 crank length, I prefer 170, but I am not going to replace 2.5mm, I can adjust the saddle position for that.

I am thinking if you have concerns that many items on the stock build, then I would choose frame build or even go with one of the shops where you can pick your parts and they will build it up for you like Wrench Science, you can pick exactly the parts your want, even if you want a different pulley on the rear mech.

Steve B.

Having a wheelset changes the equation greatly as that’s a minimum $500 cost on a build up. It still comes down to the math of frame and needed components vs, new production bike, but I think it might be cheaper at that point to do a build up. As well can you source the components you need ?

FL_Gator

Yes, I’ve got a set of $2k wheels I love but they are on a bike I would sell, so I would still get some value out of the takeoff wheels on a new buy so I don’t have to try and sell a bike with no wheels.. so that probably still works out.

tomato coupe

If you want a current model frame, it's almost certainly going to cost more to build it yourself.

mstateglfr 

If all you are changing is bar tape and/or bars and/or saddle- buy new.
If you are changing bar tape, saddle, bars, stem, tires, and cassette- I don't know why you would buy new. Even if it costs a bit more to spec a frame build, you won't have all that stuff to work on offloading.

If you also want different wheels and seatpost- well then just get a frame for sure.


Building from a frame, if the frame is new retail from a large brand, is rarely a good financial decision. Most every frame I see is purposely overpriced compared to full builds and it is not because of a lack of economies of scale or any other BS justification. It is purely to encourage people to buy the full bike.

urbanknight

One thing to think about: I have regretted not having the stock parts in the past since I could swap the saddle, stem, handlebar, cranks, etc. over to the next bike and sell the old one complete. Of course, this assumes all those parts are compatible with the next bike.

As was mentioned above, you can also usually negotiate a discount on the changed parts since the shop can keep (and swap or sell) the stock ones.

I have saved plenty of money by building up bikes, but they were mostly used or "take-off" parts (including the frame) and I wasn't too picky about the parts or the amount of time it took to acquire them.

jaxgtr

Amen.... This is where maybe finding a smaller brand for the frame or a custom build becomes a better option. I was looking at getting a Chapter2 frame a couple of years ago, but at the time I was looking, we were still having major supply issues and delays in shipping to the states so getting the frame was going to be close to 10 months, and I ended up getting a full bike in less than a month as I lucked into it being the right day and time. I still would love to get that frame, but at this point, just can't justify it.

mstateglfr 

Yeah, my old gravel frame was a Black Mountain Cycles MC frame that was like $580 with headset installed. That was 2016 though.
My current geavel frame from 2019 is a Fairlight Secan 853 frame with carbon fork and that was like $1250. Way better mix of cost and quality than the frames I see from large and well known brands(both 4 years ago and now).

SoSmellyAir

When I was pricing out my most recent bike, buying a complete bike (especially when on sale) is less than buying even just the frame and groupset (especially for electronic groupsets). So even if you have to swap out all cockpit components, the wheels and the cassette, buying a complete bike is still worth it. And doing so confers the advantage of having a working example to modify, rather than a pile of components to assemble.

Iride01 

I swapped out the bars, stem and cranks on my new Tarmac. I still think I came in way less than I could have built out a Tarmac from just a frame & fork. Possibly for a low tier model of a bike you might come in at the same costs. But for mid to high tier levels of a Roubaix or any other bike, IMO, you'll do better buying the entire bike. You won't get as good a deal on those components as Specialized or any other brand does.

Calsun

Always cheaper to buy the pre-built bike than to pay retail for individual components. With my new bikes I often needed to replace the handlebars which used to be 26mm in diameter, and change out the stem. I still change out the tires on most new bikes, road and mountain. A bike manufacturer is buy thousands of a given component as compared to a bike shop that sells a dozen or less and the bike shop pays a lot more to the distributor than the manufacturer pays buying direct.

I have noticed that with road bikes the larger frame sizes will have wider handlebars expecting the larger rider to have wider shoulders. The Specialize Roubaix bike for example has handlebar widths from 360mm to 440mm depending on the frame size. The crank length varies from 165mm to 175mm depending on the frame size.

FL_Gator

Exactly, on a 58 they come with 120mm stem, 44cm bars, and 175 cranks. None of which work for me, so I’ll just plan to buy new and swap those parts based on all the feedback here 👍🏼

Jrasero

IMO I would custom build. I am a smaller rider and basically very few if any bikes comes with the right size components kits stock. With this said I recently built up a Specialized Aethos and really built it to my spec, thus 165mm cranks, 38cm wide bars, 90mm stem and since I picked my parts I got to mix and match SRAM AXS parts thus saving me money and putting the money to the parts I valued more. I also didn't use Specialized parts for the handlebar, stem, and saddle and instead went with Prime Primavera carbon parts which are lighter and much cheaper. I didn't go with Roval wheels and instead with Elite Wheels Drive Series and then switched to some 9Velo LV wheels. My two wheelsets literally cost less than I would have paid for 1 set of the Roval Alpinist LX II. Now if you are a Specialized purist or believe groupsets shouldn't be mixed or matched than my build is pretty triggering to some but IMO I pretty much built a Aethos Pro for about $1785 less or if you count my spare wheelset $785 less

urbanknight

Just to reiterate, I suggest you keep the stock parts so you can throw them back on when you sell the bike and toss the "custom" parts on whatever you buy next (assuming compatibility)... unless you specifically want to buy newer stuff each time. I ride a 54cm bike but always swap to 170 cranks, 80mm stem, and 40cm bars (and the bars are on their 3rd bike). The stock 172.5, 100, and 42 are in my garage waiting.

nomadmax 

I build my bikes because I'm very particular about all the components, including Campagnolo. Few new bikes in the 5K range come stock with Campy. To be sure, it costs more, but I get what I want.