Interesting Dawes frame on ebay with "very unique" threadless BB
#26
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don't tempt me
I'm headed up your way in early december to visit my brother in Johnson.
I'm headed up your way in early december to visit my brother in Johnson.
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Thought I'd seen the badge before, found it on a '51 with the same lugs and fork crown. The pics. are protected so here is the link if your interested
https://www.theoldbicycleshowroom.co....cle-1044-p.asp
https://www.theoldbicycleshowroom.co....cle-1044-p.asp
#28
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I had noticed that bike a few days ago and was also intrigued by the threadless bb. The close up picture of the inside does seem to show the remains of some bb threads. Funny. I recently acquired a 1980's English Dawes Lightning road bike. I remember the line up, somewhat, but have also been very frustrated going on line and trying to get any info at all on that era Dawes. I came up with basically nothing, and was just trying to find out what the original specs were. Almost all the info available is for the new made in china -bikes -with -the-Dawes-decals-plastered on. Amazing that there was no data, that I have yet to find, on the English road bikes of the 1970's, which I retailed, or of the 1980's era. Finally had to get a hold of a friend of mine who used to work for Dawes, in order to get some info. Interesting to see what this e bay Dawes will sell for.
#29
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here's a page of the 1939 Dawes Catalog https://www.flickr.com/photos/75395133@N00/3084460151/
I think that might be the bike.
Does anyone know anything about the Cyclo Derailleur and the rod that's going from the deraileur to just behind the chainwheel?
I think that might be the bike.
Does anyone know anything about the Cyclo Derailleur and the rod that's going from the deraileur to just behind the chainwheel?
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I'm going to guess it's a spring that keeps the chain tensioned. But that really is a guess.
#31
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Images courtesy of interwebs...
This is from a James:
ReneHearse:
Don't know:
For sale on internets:
This is from a James:
ReneHearse:
Don't know:
For sale on internets:
Last edited by Ivandarken; 11-22-10 at 08:10 AM.
#32
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thats the RD I'm talking about. No clue what that rod could be doing aside from immobilizing the derailleur front to back or possibly providing spring tension but I'd really love to figure out what model it is and mostly...why the rod?
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#34
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Perfect, thanks for the pics
Is this your bike in these pics or would you mind sharing the link where you found the pics?
I was looking at an old Cyclo ad last night for their 3 cog cassette for Sturmey Archer Hubs. They made a 16-19-22 that worked with this derailleur.
Is this your bike in these pics or would you mind sharing the link where you found the pics?
I was looking at an old Cyclo ad last night for their 3 cog cassette for Sturmey Archer Hubs. They made a 16-19-22 that worked with this derailleur.
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Last edited by Zaphod Beeblebrox; 11-22-10 at 11:41 AM.
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I saw it as well and thought it was older than advertised and repainted. Got my interest until I realized I'd never be able to assemble the correct parts for it. Way before my time, I know nothing!
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Cyclo made a 2 cog unit that fits on the 3-splined driver common to most SA hubs and other IGH's. I have one with 16T and 19T cogs. But I don't use it, it's a nice unit, but has no advantage over a pair of the common 3-splined cogs assembled back-to-back; if you use regular cogs you should grind the teeth of the larger cog down to the flat-topped shape typical of freewheel and cassette cogs. This is a much more flexible arrangement than a Cyclo 2-cog unit. As for the 3-cog units, I have no experience. Do they require the longer axle? someone else will fill us in, perhaps?
I'd like to hear from anyone who's used the 3-cog unit. Are 3 cogs better than 2? How? It seems to me the additional gears are mostly redundant.
I's also like to hear from anyone who's used the Standard Cyclo or Oppy derailleurs. I've used Cyclo Benelux, and found them to be reliable when adjustted right, but a real pain to adjust. It is very difficult to adjust the amount of lateral travel.
I'd like to hear from anyone who's used the 3-cog unit. Are 3 cogs better than 2? How? It seems to me the additional gears are mostly redundant.
I's also like to hear from anyone who's used the Standard Cyclo or Oppy derailleurs. I've used Cyclo Benelux, and found them to be reliable when adjustted right, but a real pain to adjust. It is very difficult to adjust the amount of lateral travel.
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well its in my hot little hands now. excuse the low res pics. The paint job is actually quite nice and I'll be keeping it for the time being. I threw a handy set of 700c wheels on just for kicks and to see the standover height. So far it looks like it should fit well.
A little something odd going on with the seatstays. look closely and you can see how it narrows in one spot. Its identical on the other seatstay. I'm not sure if some doof just really overtightened a rack clamp at one point or if it's made like that.
SO a question about wheels. I see in the catalog that original equipment is 26" x 1 1/4" rims and John Bull tires. What size 26" is that? 650A?
A little something odd going on with the seatstays. look closely and you can see how it narrows in one spot. Its identical on the other seatstay. I'm not sure if some doof just really overtightened a rack clamp at one point or if it's made like that.
SO a question about wheels. I see in the catalog that original equipment is 26" x 1 1/4" rims and John Bull tires. What size 26" is that? 650A?
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Nice score! That wheel size is EA1 or 597mm. It's hard to find, whether rims or tires. But a couple of bikes I own that called for that wheel size seem to fit 700c wheels and fenders with no problems. Given the clearances your pics show, you should also have no problem.
Neal
Neal
#40
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the widest spot on the indentations on the inside of the chainstays is about 13 1/4" from the middle of the rear dropout.
A test fit with a modern 26" wheel confirms that it can also handle pretty fat, slightly smaller diameter tires like 26" or 650B. The rear brake bridge and the fork crown are both high enough to take 27"
A test fit with a modern 26" wheel confirms that it can also handle pretty fat, slightly smaller diameter tires like 26" or 650B. The rear brake bridge and the fork crown are both high enough to take 27"
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#41
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It looks a bit odd sitting on the 700's, seems like the BB is awfully high? no? Maybe just the picture? If you can find a Cyclo for the gearing than maybe it would be worthwhile looking for a set of EA1's? Is the BB face chewed up or was that just a bad ebay picture? Should be a fun project, can't wait to see it come together!
#42
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Looking at your photos, I just can't see that even an extra long reach caliper is going to reach an ISO 597 rim, let alone a 650B (ISO 584) rim. Add to that the only period correct calipers you're going to find won't have quite the reach as a modern Tektro.
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#43
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When choosing your rim size, you have to consider all the other variables --hubs and brakes-- at the same time. If you're contemplating a period-correct Sturmey Archer or something, they're easy to find in 40H; in which case I'd suggest 650A since you can get CR18's in the correct drillings. Finding a 32/40 pair of rims in any other size will be a real challenge. But the smaller wheels will give you brake reach issues.
Speaking of which, what brakes are you considering? With 700c you can use fairly modern aluminum sidepulls, centerpulls, whatever you want, and you'll have good anachronistic functionality. With 650A you can go period correct, which probably means chromed steel side pulls like what you find on a typical English three speed.
And what about fenders? Can you fit fenders over 700c or 27" tires?
I'm not advocating for one wheel size or another, just advocating to think the wheel size through before buying anything.
Edit? Ack! Justin beat me to it!
Speaking of which, what brakes are you considering? With 700c you can use fairly modern aluminum sidepulls, centerpulls, whatever you want, and you'll have good anachronistic functionality. With 650A you can go period correct, which probably means chromed steel side pulls like what you find on a typical English three speed.
And what about fenders? Can you fit fenders over 700c or 27" tires?
I'm not advocating for one wheel size or another, just advocating to think the wheel size through before buying anything.
Edit? Ack! Justin beat me to it!
Last edited by rhm; 12-01-10 at 09:25 AM.
#44
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Like the brakes on my Raleigh Sports? They don't look like they'd reach an ISO 597 rim on that frame. He'd need 12.5mm more reach than he would with the wheel pictured. That's a stretch (not to mention the braking efficiency would pretty much suck).
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#45
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Yeah, that's the ones I mean, though I'd avoid anything that says Raleigh on it (just 'cuz).
You may be right, I don't know; but not having seen either bike I suspect the distance from the brake mounting hole to the dropout on the Dawes is pretty close to that on your Sports, and the Sports' brakes (together with its fenders and wheels) would work on the Dawes. You could just as well mount 27" wheels on your sports, though with different brakes and no fenders. Period correct, man!
Actually, with orange coolstop pads and aluminum rims, I'd bet it wouldn't be that bad.
Actually, with orange coolstop pads and aluminum rims, I'd bet it wouldn't be that bad.
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#47
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I test fit a 26"x2.0" (ISO 559) just to see and It will fit a 2.0 tire which measured to 43mm on the rim.
It does seem pretty tall on 27 or 700c and I completely agree that even with the 700c rims in my pics its still a loooong reach for those brake calipers.
650A is high in the running. Panaracer makes a nice wide-ish 650A tire and there's a chance I could get caliper brakes to hit the rim.
650B is a consideration because I can run some fatty tires and the rim is only gonna drop another 5mm in terms of where the brakes hit. Although I'm gonna need all the brake reach I can get as it is. Maybe drum brakes should be on my mind. by the same token 26"(559mm) is also possible.
700c is in the running but It would be a tight fit for Panaracer 32mm Paselas because of clearance at the chainstay bridge...it could affect fender fitting. Of course brake reach would be improved.
I kinda dont think I'll bother with 597...tires choices suck as do rim choices.
there's a cyclo derailleur thats appears correct for this bike (correct model and look, not sure on the date) that's ending today. I'm hoping nobody else on earth has noticed it and i'll be the only bidder
It does seem pretty tall on 27 or 700c and I completely agree that even with the 700c rims in my pics its still a loooong reach for those brake calipers.
650A is high in the running. Panaracer makes a nice wide-ish 650A tire and there's a chance I could get caliper brakes to hit the rim.
650B is a consideration because I can run some fatty tires and the rim is only gonna drop another 5mm in terms of where the brakes hit. Although I'm gonna need all the brake reach I can get as it is. Maybe drum brakes should be on my mind. by the same token 26"(559mm) is also possible.
700c is in the running but It would be a tight fit for Panaracer 32mm Paselas because of clearance at the chainstay bridge...it could affect fender fitting. Of course brake reach would be improved.
I kinda dont think I'll bother with 597...tires choices suck as do rim choices.
there's a cyclo derailleur thats appears correct for this bike (correct model and look, not sure on the date) that's ending today. I'm hoping nobody else on earth has noticed it and i'll be the only bidder
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Last edited by Zaphod Beeblebrox; 12-01-10 at 09:31 AM.
#48
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#49
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very nice. are those original rims?
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#50
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Yes. They are the reason oxalic acid was invented.
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