Convert old road bike to upright
#1
One knee is enough
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: East Central Illinois
Posts: 281
Bikes: 1978 Fuji - now fixed and pegged. 1980s Cannondale Touring - pegged with 18 speeds. 2001 Cannondale CADD 3 - not being ridden
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Convert old road bike to upright
I've got an early 80's vintage mid-range Fuji road bike that I need to convert to a commuter for someone who wants to sit up and ride rather than bend over and use the drops. Money is a factor.
I found a nice extension stem and upright handlebars on the Rivendell site, but they want real money for them. I'm also not sure what I have to do to change the friction six speed shifters from the downtube to the bars or what kind of brake levers I need that will fit on an upright bar, but work with the old side pulls.
I'm also looking for a source of moderately wide 27" commuting tires.
Ideas?
I found a nice extension stem and upright handlebars on the Rivendell site, but they want real money for them. I'm also not sure what I have to do to change the friction six speed shifters from the downtube to the bars or what kind of brake levers I need that will fit on an upright bar, but work with the old side pulls.
I'm also looking for a source of moderately wide 27" commuting tires.
Ideas?
#2
TDI Guy
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle
Posts: 22
Bikes: Novara Corsa
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You can try this. but for me, it didn't work.
I had a 1983 Novara Strada that I road for years, until the early 90's when I decided it would be fun to convert it to a flat-bar instead of drop-bars... It (for me) was a disaster. I think it depends on the overall geometry, but the bike was too squirrely for me and I ended up going back to drop-bars.
That said, I now have a 2007 Diamondback Century flat-bar road bike that handles well and that I really like. But, though based on road bike geometry, I believe it's still different from that erly Strada and its ilk.
YMMV.
Tony
I had a 1983 Novara Strada that I road for years, until the early 90's when I decided it would be fun to convert it to a flat-bar instead of drop-bars... It (for me) was a disaster. I think it depends on the overall geometry, but the bike was too squirrely for me and I ended up going back to drop-bars.
That said, I now have a 2007 Diamondback Century flat-bar road bike that handles well and that I really like. But, though based on road bike geometry, I believe it's still different from that erly Strada and its ilk.
YMMV.
Tony
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,132
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
JUST DID THAT.. I took a 17 pound Titanium to a cool 20 pound "up-right" commuter. Total cost, $300. Don't bother with that site,they have an excellant approach but it's over-kill in your case,given your $$$ Starting with the shifters, Barcons, I call them bar-end shifters, were desireable to not interfere with luggage, not relavent,STAY with the down-tubes. I used mustache bars costing $30. My stem had been a quill,I preffered to keep it as such but the LBS uesd an adapter and a threadless stem. Make SURE that you get the very highest rise (not longest) stem that's available,the most important aspect of possition.I was able to use the original side-pulls without changing ANY possition of cables. The levers fit on the forward curves of the bars,a natural,obvious choice. I donated the ultra-lite tubular rims to a member here as I did the racy bars and stem. I bought Sun rims M13II very low priced,they're light enough.Suns have never failed me,niether have Weinmans I've used them. You may get Weinmans cheap if you need new ones. I needed rims,you may not. I used top-notch 28cm tires,you can't. You CAN find 1 1/4' 27" tires,they may seem skinny on paper but they're fine, Tourers have used them for forty years. Nashbar has them, buy them,don't search for cheap tires,you're apt to only find 1' or 1/8' anyway.My cost was three,your's will be LESS than two at a shop,not a bad idea,wrapping the bars and other tings can be tricky.I had an LBS do it, My head-set was bad and alum.head tube lugs like to burst so he did it all, my price included other parts as well. PM me if you like.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 1,602
Bikes: Pugsley, fixie commuter, track bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
This website has a link to the QBP catalog. aebike If you can find what you need here nearly any bike shop can get it for you. I have had good luck with the occasional from aebike if you'd rather not deal with an LBS.
There are several brands of inexpensive high rise quill style stems available. I prefer Northroad or moustache style bars but flat or riser bars will work also.
Its not necessary to change the down tube shifters but if you want more convenient shifters grip shifters come in indexed 6-speed versions that will likely work with your current system.
I believe you need to look for brake levers designed for BMX style bikes and not v-brakes. There are still a number of cheaper levers available for canti and caliper brakes that should work with your side-pulls.
Schwalbe Marathons are available in 27" but may be more than you wanted to spend.
Your best resource is probably your LBS. I've had good luck with small stores where the owner is usually working in the store. They should be able to order anything you need and make sure the parts will work with what you have. Don't be afraid to say no, and take the bike else where if you feel they are spending more than you want.
Craig
There are several brands of inexpensive high rise quill style stems available. I prefer Northroad or moustache style bars but flat or riser bars will work also.
Its not necessary to change the down tube shifters but if you want more convenient shifters grip shifters come in indexed 6-speed versions that will likely work with your current system.
I believe you need to look for brake levers designed for BMX style bikes and not v-brakes. There are still a number of cheaper levers available for canti and caliper brakes that should work with your side-pulls.
Schwalbe Marathons are available in 27" but may be more than you wanted to spend.
Your best resource is probably your LBS. I've had good luck with small stores where the owner is usually working in the store. They should be able to order anything you need and make sure the parts will work with what you have. Don't be afraid to say no, and take the bike else where if you feel they are spending more than you want.
Craig
#5
Tornado of Teeth
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Astoria, NYC
Posts: 437
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Just flip the drops upside-down. Get some in-line brake levers (probably have to switch out the original dia compe brakes to do this) to go on the flat part and just get a higher stem. Not too expensive and quick and easy.
I think the Continental Ultra Gator skins come in 28mm
I think the Continental Ultra Gator skins come in 28mm
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 1,602
Bikes: Pugsley, fixie commuter, track bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My dad is looking for a bike path bicycle so I will probably do this to my current commuter, as I have a CrossCheck on order.
I'm thinking of using some cruiser bars I have lying around, getting some cheap brake levers, replacing the fixed gear cog with a larger freewheel and swapping the seat for something larger. Once I get this done I'll post some pics and let you know how it works out.
Craig
I'm thinking of using some cruiser bars I have lying around, getting some cheap brake levers, replacing the fixed gear cog with a larger freewheel and swapping the seat for something larger. Once I get this done I'll post some pics and let you know how it works out.
Craig
#7
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 47
Bikes: 1996 Trek 930, 198? Bianchi Giro, 1998 Cannondale RT300, 19?? Gary Fisher
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SchreiberBike
I Money is a factor.
Important note about bars. Road bars and mtn. bike bars are different diameters. If you change to a mtn. bike flat bar, you have to change everything else. There are adapters and some specialty items but those cost real money. Since you are starting with a road bike it will be least expensive to stick with road parts. There are several road compatible bars that don't have deep drops.
One possible low cost way:
Buy a used short high-rise stem.
Buy used brake levers that let you ride with your hands on the brake hoods.
Buy used barcons.
It may be cheaper to buy a used comfort bike and sell (or donate) the Fuji.
I'm also looking for a source of moderately wide 27" commuting tires.
Panaracer Pasela TG is a good choice. They come as wide as 27x1 1/4"
https://www.panaracer.com/eng/products/index_ur.html
Last edited by Andrew*Debbie; 05-17-07 at 07:40 AM.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Soviet of Oregon or Pensacola FL
Posts: 5,342
Bikes: Still have a few left!
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 467 Post(s)
Liked 532 Times
in
267 Posts
I did a conversion like this for my wife once. Just took a $5 steel bar from a Schwinn cruiser which still had its brake levers, cables & stem, then added a pair of thumb shifters from Recycled cycles for a total cost of $10 plus my time. No handling problems but eventually had to add a Brooks saddle for comfort sake.
#9
One knee is enough
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: East Central Illinois
Posts: 281
Bikes: 1978 Fuji - now fixed and pegged. 1980s Cannondale Touring - pegged with 18 speeds. 2001 Cannondale CADD 3 - not being ridden
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks a bunch folks. I'll be assembling over the weekend and I'll let you know how it rides.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Brooklyn USA
Posts: 98
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I like the primitive brake levers like this much better than any MTB style levers: https://www.bikepartsusa.com/product_...2&p=01%2D77814
I use this stem: https://www.bikepartsusa.com/product_...&p=01%2D134157
plus Nitto B-352 northroad/moustache handlebars and the generic tires from the LBS for $14 each
the only problem I'm having is that cheap stem is biting into the aluminum handlebars, denting them instead of clamping down hard enough to keep the bars in position, it's not a problem except when I have to jump up a curb or something
I use this stem: https://www.bikepartsusa.com/product_...&p=01%2D134157
plus Nitto B-352 northroad/moustache handlebars and the generic tires from the LBS for $14 each
the only problem I'm having is that cheap stem is biting into the aluminum handlebars, denting them instead of clamping down hard enough to keep the bars in position, it's not a problem except when I have to jump up a curb or something
#11
Really Old Senior Member
Most any Kroger type store will have 1 style 27x1-1/4" tire for $6-10. That's about the fattest you'll find.