Feet
#26
Banned.
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Home alone
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Down to about 20 F I can wear just about any shoes. I wear a wicking sock with a wool sock over it. IMPORTANT: Wear a shoe that is oversized. You need some air at the end of the shoe. I bought mine 1/2 to a whole size to large.
I would recommend getting a shoe that is at least one size too large.
Below 20 F I wear the same sock combo and a pair of Wolverine, Thinsulate lined hiking boots. My feet are never cold. (bought these oversized as well) I obviously use platform pedals.
I would recommend getting a shoe that is at least one size too large.
Below 20 F I wear the same sock combo and a pair of Wolverine, Thinsulate lined hiking boots. My feet are never cold. (bought these oversized as well) I obviously use platform pedals.
#27
Super Biker
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Originally Posted by bac
A pair of Lake MXZ300 shoes, AND toe warmers. I have cycled @ below zero Fahrenheit with this set-up, and my feet have never been even the least bit cold. The shoes are warm, but are also great for keeping the snow/slush out.
#28
One knee is enough
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A little involved, but check out this link ICEBIKE SHOE .
#29
Enjoy
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Originally Posted by SchreiberBike
A little involved, but check out this link ICEBIKE SHOE .
I have a pair of home-mades like this in the garage. Not finished because I used metal plate on both sides, it crinkles when I walk...and it's cold against the foot. Can't wait to get home and try it out!
#30
Long Live Long Rides
Join Date: Apr 2004
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Hey ChirsL, I was just cruizin' on IceBike and saw this. Maybe this helps. I will probably try the Campmor overboots and power grips this year. In MO it doesn't get THAT cold. But I do like to keep my feet cozy while snow biking!
From ICEBIKE:
Tony Torti from Fairbanks Alaska recommends a combination of cycling shoes with warm waterproof overboots:
"Clipless is fine but a stiff shoe is important for effective power transfer, plus the trails I ride call for the occasional wade through overflow (water ontop of ice) and absolute waterproofing is a must.
After years of trying different boots with Powers Grips I found what works for me. A overboot called N.E.O.S. (I found them in Campmor) with a bicycling road shoe inside has finally solved the problem. Very lightweight, waterproof, tough, and with different combinations of socks perfect for a wide range of temps. A thin pair of polypros or thermax inside the shoes and a heavy fleece sock over the shoes keeps my feet warm at -20F all day long. The socks and leather shoes breath so a little moisture will collect inside the overshoes but your feet stay dry.
Foam insoles under the riding shoes make a bed that the shoes sink into and besides adding warmth help keep you secure in the pedals. A well adjusted set of Power Grips keeps you hooked up to the pedals almost as well as Clipless. The N.E.O.S. comes in ankle and knee high sizes, I recommend the knee highs as they keep you dry even in a deep dunking and add warmth and protection.
For multi-day trips some sort of campbootie, tennis shoes or even your favorite slippers can be switched with the riding shoes for wood gathering, etc. These overboots are very well made and after 2 years of abuse show almost no signs of wear. They run about 60 bucks."
Power Grips:
Because many ICEBIKERS use winter boots or light hiking boots the subject of pedal retention often comes up, and power grips are often recommended.
Power grips by Eko Sport (formerly BPP) are pedals with a diagonal strap across the toe of your shoe. The natural position of your foot while pedaling locks your shoe to the pedal, but a simple heel-out rotation (just like Clipless pedals) loosens the strap for easy exit.
They come in various colors. There are two different configurations, one for around $20 works with most existing cage pedals that accept straps. A complete pedal replacement kit is available for about $30 and a delux set is around $66. Check with your LBS or the mail order companies. Eko Sport will also sell direct.
Because they are fairly adjustable, these have become a favorite of winter cyclists that need large boots for good cold weather foot protection.
Users report good retention and no problem extracting your foot in a hurry. The strap is flexible, but stiff enough to remain open for easy of entry.
These will accept larger winter boots than will toe-clips. Some users with large feet use these year around as they are easier to fit into than regular toeclips. The manufacturer even makes large size straps for winter boots. See posting at right.
From Power Grip:
We have extra long Power Grips for just such lunatics as yourself (actually started making 'em for Alaskans). Most dealers don't sell these specialty items, so we're glad to sell them direct If you'd like a set, call us at 800-999-8277. We can handle Visa, MasterCard, or prepayment.
Regards, Eko Sport.
Posted on the ICEBIKE Mailing list by Gordy Seppanen,
From ICEBIKE:
Tony Torti from Fairbanks Alaska recommends a combination of cycling shoes with warm waterproof overboots:
"Clipless is fine but a stiff shoe is important for effective power transfer, plus the trails I ride call for the occasional wade through overflow (water ontop of ice) and absolute waterproofing is a must.
After years of trying different boots with Powers Grips I found what works for me. A overboot called N.E.O.S. (I found them in Campmor) with a bicycling road shoe inside has finally solved the problem. Very lightweight, waterproof, tough, and with different combinations of socks perfect for a wide range of temps. A thin pair of polypros or thermax inside the shoes and a heavy fleece sock over the shoes keeps my feet warm at -20F all day long. The socks and leather shoes breath so a little moisture will collect inside the overshoes but your feet stay dry.
Foam insoles under the riding shoes make a bed that the shoes sink into and besides adding warmth help keep you secure in the pedals. A well adjusted set of Power Grips keeps you hooked up to the pedals almost as well as Clipless. The N.E.O.S. comes in ankle and knee high sizes, I recommend the knee highs as they keep you dry even in a deep dunking and add warmth and protection.
For multi-day trips some sort of campbootie, tennis shoes or even your favorite slippers can be switched with the riding shoes for wood gathering, etc. These overboots are very well made and after 2 years of abuse show almost no signs of wear. They run about 60 bucks."
Power Grips:
Because many ICEBIKERS use winter boots or light hiking boots the subject of pedal retention often comes up, and power grips are often recommended.
Power grips by Eko Sport (formerly BPP) are pedals with a diagonal strap across the toe of your shoe. The natural position of your foot while pedaling locks your shoe to the pedal, but a simple heel-out rotation (just like Clipless pedals) loosens the strap for easy exit.
They come in various colors. There are two different configurations, one for around $20 works with most existing cage pedals that accept straps. A complete pedal replacement kit is available for about $30 and a delux set is around $66. Check with your LBS or the mail order companies. Eko Sport will also sell direct.
Because they are fairly adjustable, these have become a favorite of winter cyclists that need large boots for good cold weather foot protection.
Users report good retention and no problem extracting your foot in a hurry. The strap is flexible, but stiff enough to remain open for easy of entry.
These will accept larger winter boots than will toe-clips. Some users with large feet use these year around as they are easier to fit into than regular toeclips. The manufacturer even makes large size straps for winter boots. See posting at right.
From Power Grip:
We have extra long Power Grips for just such lunatics as yourself (actually started making 'em for Alaskans). Most dealers don't sell these specialty items, so we're glad to sell them direct If you'd like a set, call us at 800-999-8277. We can handle Visa, MasterCard, or prepayment.
Regards, Eko Sport.
Posted on the ICEBIKE Mailing list by Gordy Seppanen,