Lightweight vintage triple cranksets
#1
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Lightweight vintage triple cranksets
I have a question that I realize is probably an oxymoron.
Among vintage triple cranksets, are there any that are notably lightweight compared to other vintage triple cranks? I'm thinking square taper only, 90s or older. I like 110/74 BCD but it does not necessarily have to be that.
Normally I'm not a weight weenie but I am planning a build with a steel frame that's lighter and nicer than what I'm used to, so I'm trying to minimize weight where I can while still maintaining features that I like, such as a triple crank.
Thanks in advance.
Among vintage triple cranksets, are there any that are notably lightweight compared to other vintage triple cranks? I'm thinking square taper only, 90s or older. I like 110/74 BCD but it does not necessarily have to be that.
Normally I'm not a weight weenie but I am planning a build with a steel frame that's lighter and nicer than what I'm used to, so I'm trying to minimize weight where I can while still maintaining features that I like, such as a triple crank.
Thanks in advance.
#2
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The classic Spécialités T.A. Pro-5-Vis comes to mind as well as the Stronglight 107?
But I'm not much of a weight weeny myself so perhaps others can come up with some better options.
But I'm not much of a weight weeny myself so perhaps others can come up with some better options.
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I'm a fan of the Stronglight 99, but could not tell you its weight.
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Did Shimano incorporate Hollowtech in their octalink cranksets? Perhaps I should weigh one.
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here's a little weight info on the T.A. Cyclotouriste and Stronglight 99...
Any interest in a Sugino AT? It is a fine 110/74 crank that can be set up as a double or triple. I happen to have a set of bare crank arms sitting out at this time, and could toss them on the scale.
Steve in Peoria
Any interest in a Sugino AT? It is a fine 110/74 crank that can be set up as a double or triple. I happen to have a set of bare crank arms sitting out at this time, and could toss them on the scale.
Steve in Peoria
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Velobase lists this Deore XT set at 698 grams.
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano FC-M737, Deore XT M737
The same site lists the TA Cyclotouriste at 611 grams.
VeloBase.com - Component: Shimano FC-M737, Deore XT M737
The same site lists the TA Cyclotouriste at 611 grams.
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For a 90’s triple crank with 110-74 I would think an XTR M900 would be pretty light. Couple it to a titanium BB and your in business.
I’d guess the M950 with the spider system might be lighter, but I’m not a pure C&Ver and even I have a tough time looking at it, especially after a few years of riding.
John
I’d guess the M950 with the spider system might be lighter, but I’m not a pure C&Ver and even I have a tough time looking at it, especially after a few years of riding.
John
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I only ride triples and have a lot of them. Mostly 110/74, but a Stronglight 99 as well. Also have a 130/86 Takagi AD. I've got Suginos, Sakae/SRs, Shimanos, etc. Weight wise, not enough differences to matter. What does matter these days is finding the correct BB spindle. If you prefer a spindle that uses bolts, a 3U bolted spindle is very hard to find. You can find cheap, nutted 3U spindles if you can use those.
To summarize, make sure you can get a spindle that works before you get the crank. Otherwise, you might be looking for a long time.
To summarize, make sure you can get a spindle that works before you get the crank. Otherwise, you might be looking for a long time.
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...the old Avocet square taper cranks from the '70's were infamously light, but they were drilled in the crank spider to mount the small ring, so they had a tendency to self destruct after a while, I think they were made by Ofmega, maybe. Remember the old adage about light and durable being on two sides of a fine line. Build yourself some nice wheels, with lightweight modern rims and equip them with decent lightweight tyres (that have at least some puncture resistance and will inflate to 120 or 130). You won't notice whatever ounces you add on there for crank durability.
...the old Avocet square taper cranks from the '70's were infamously light, but they were drilled in the crank spider to mount the small ring, so they had a tendency to self destruct after a while, I think they were made by Ofmega, maybe. Remember the old adage about light and durable being on two sides of a fine line. Build yourself some nice wheels, with lightweight modern rims and equip them with decent lightweight tyres (that have at least some puncture resistance and will inflate to 120 or 130). You won't notice whatever ounces you add on there for crank durability.
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FWIW, since I’m certainly not a weight weenie, I weighed these three 110/74 cranks, all weighed as just the arms (length as noted), no rings or BB
Sugino AT, 170 arms: 480gm. BTW, I suspect 175’s would weigh the same, the pedal hole would just be 5mm farther out
Ritchey Logic (early 90’s version, made by Sugino) with “hidden fifth arm”, 175 arms: 475gm
Specialized “flag”, 170 arms: 465gm
If one is counting grams, the AT takes the longest BB at 127.5. Lots of steel there.
Might not be considered sufficiently “vintage” - wife’s custom ‘96 Erickson had a very light and pretty set with “”ball-shaped” ends at both the pedal and spindle, but the brand name escapes me. DS crank was swaged to the spider, which was a weak point, but never a problem for her. Also, the pedal threads were blind, so some pedals couldn’t be used. Photo below:
Sugino AT, 170 arms: 480gm. BTW, I suspect 175’s would weigh the same, the pedal hole would just be 5mm farther out
Ritchey Logic (early 90’s version, made by Sugino) with “hidden fifth arm”, 175 arms: 475gm
Specialized “flag”, 170 arms: 465gm
If one is counting grams, the AT takes the longest BB at 127.5. Lots of steel there.
Might not be considered sufficiently “vintage” - wife’s custom ‘96 Erickson had a very light and pretty set with “”ball-shaped” ends at both the pedal and spindle, but the brand name escapes me. DS crank was swaged to the spider, which was a weak point, but never a problem for her. Also, the pedal threads were blind, so some pedals couldn’t be used. Photo below:
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The Sugino AT mentioned above is a very attractive crank. This one takes a 3U spindle. It took me a long time to find a bolted one. The Shimano 600 FC-6206 is a high quality, attractive crank. Somewhat hard to find in 170 crankarm size.
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The majority of Japanese JIS triples I have take a spindle in the 121-122.5 range.
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Any 110 bcd 5 bolt double (square taper) crank can be outfitted with an IRD triplizer mid ring (36 or 34 tooth I believe) to accept a 74 bcd inner ring. I'm sure there are high quality, lightweight 110 bcd doubles that are very lightweight that would be a trick set up with the IRD triplizer middle ring.
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I have a Takagi Tourney GS set in box 50-45-30 IIRC. Very nice and seems light, though don't have a scale and can't see a weight recorded online. If you can find one you'll be pleased.
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FWIW, since I’m certainly not a weight weenie, I weighed these three 110/74 cranks, all weighed as just the arms (length as noted), no rings or BB
Sugino AT, 170 arms: 480gm. BTW, I suspect 175’s would weigh the same, the pedal hole would just be 5mm farther out
Ritchey Logic (early 90’s version, made by Sugino) with “hidden fifth arm”, 175 arms: 475gm
Specialized “flag”, 170 arms: 465gm
If one is counting grams, the AT takes the longest BB at 127.5. Lots of steel there.
Might not be considered sufficiently “vintage” - wife’s custom ‘96 Erickson had a very light and pretty set with “”ball-shaped” ends at both the pedal and spindle, but the brand name escapes me. DS crank was swaged to the spider, which was a weak point, but never a problem for her. Also, the pedal threads were blind, so some pedals couldn’t be used. Photo below:
Sugino AT, 170 arms: 480gm. BTW, I suspect 175’s would weigh the same, the pedal hole would just be 5mm farther out
Ritchey Logic (early 90’s version, made by Sugino) with “hidden fifth arm”, 175 arms: 475gm
Specialized “flag”, 170 arms: 465gm
If one is counting grams, the AT takes the longest BB at 127.5. Lots of steel there.
Might not be considered sufficiently “vintage” - wife’s custom ‘96 Erickson had a very light and pretty set with “”ball-shaped” ends at both the pedal and spindle, but the brand name escapes me. DS crank was swaged to the spider, which was a weak point, but never a problem for her. Also, the pedal threads were blind, so some pedals couldn’t be used. Photo below:
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.......
Might not be considered sufficiently “vintage” - wife’s custom ‘96 Erickson had a very light and pretty set with “”ball-shaped” ends at both the pedal and spindle, but the brand name escapes me. DS crank was swaged to the spider, which was a weak point, but never a problem for her. Also, the pedal threads were blind, so some pedals couldn’t be used. Photo below:
Might not be considered sufficiently “vintage” - wife’s custom ‘96 Erickson had a very light and pretty set with “”ball-shaped” ends at both the pedal and spindle, but the brand name escapes me. DS crank was swaged to the spider, which was a weak point, but never a problem for her. Also, the pedal threads were blind, so some pedals couldn’t be used. Photo below:
I'm guessing Topline cranks....
but my second guess is Cook cranks....
Steve in Peoria
(haven't looked at the Bike Pro catalog in a looong time!)
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Specialized "flag" triple?
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I would have think that the lightest triple would be a cold forged crank given that's the strongest way to make alloy parts. The 1992 Bridgestone catalog has a good description of the various ways to make alloy parts. This is from that catalog:
"Cold-forged parts are typically thinner, lighter, stronger, more accurately made, and more expensive than cast parts."
"Cold-forged parts are typically thinner, lighter, stronger, more accurately made, and more expensive than cast parts."
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I had to have a black crank for the latest build. This one is part of the Suntour X1 MTB group. It was made by Sakae or Sugino, though. I did some weight weenieing before I got it. It beat out some of the other black cranks, including some Shimanos. All of the ID marks on the components have been blacked out with a Sharpie.
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The Shimano FC-1057 is a good crank with a relatively short spindle. Ramped/pinned also. The finish can look yea or nea depending on the bike.
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Here it is - note the small engraved flag marking near the crank bolt, hence the nickname. It’s a nice crank set. I’m using it on a 113mm UN-55 BB with a 3.0mm DS spacer for proper chainline.
And here’s the Velobase listing:
VeloBase.com - Component: Specialized Touring triple (flag emblem)
Thanks @merziac and @steelbikeguy for the memory jogs. Pretty sure hers was a Topline, but Cook Brothers was a good thought, too. Good idea to look in my old Bike Pro catalog next time! It’s a great resource for questions like this.
And here’s the Velobase listing:
VeloBase.com - Component: Specialized Touring triple (flag emblem)
Thanks @merziac and @steelbikeguy for the memory jogs. Pretty sure hers was a Topline, but Cook Brothers was a good thought, too. Good idea to look in my old Bike Pro catalog next time! It’s a great resource for questions like this.
Last edited by Dfrost; 07-27-21 at 12:04 AM. Reason: Added BB length
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They’re not vintage, but I believe the SunXCD cranks are lighter-weight.
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RaceFace Turbine LPs came in at about 460g for the arms IIRC. I used to have Toplines but they cracked on me twice. After swapping to these, my feet hurt at first from the improved stiffness. I still have them and many sets are still alive. Pictured is my red microdrive model, my black 110/74 is still in action.
Last edited by DorkDisk; 07-27-21 at 06:09 AM. Reason: Uses 113 spindle, is very Low Profile
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