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So I have been trying to change a tire...

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Old 01-07-09, 09:21 PM
  #1  
otakux
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So I have been trying to change a tire...

So for the last couple of days I have been trying to put on a tire on my wheel. Today in frustration I decided to go to the LBS and have them do it for me. The guy there just put on the tire like it was a piece of cake. Is there any sort of trick on putting on tires or do I just need need like super strong finger muscles?
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Old 01-07-09, 09:27 PM
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Warm the tire in the sun first.

Keep any installed portion in the valley of the rim.

Just kind of "roll" the tire on with your hands and fingers.

Only do one side at a time.
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Old 01-07-09, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Wanderer
Keep any installed portion in the valley of the rim.
That's the trick. It works when you're removing the tire from the rim too.
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Old 01-07-09, 11:30 PM
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Also, roll just that portion right at the edge of the uninstalled part. That is, work it on a little at a time.
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Old 01-08-09, 12:05 AM
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The bead in the valley thing is key. Also, make sure that 1) The base of the stem is inside the tire, not between the bead and the rim and 2) The tube is not pinched between the tire bead and rim anywhere. Either of those two things will make a by hand tire install nearly impossible even with tire levers. Also, some brands of tire (Continental among others) go on a bit harder new. Once you've done it a couple of times it gets much easier so take your tire and practice a bit. It's something you'll want to have figured out before you get a flat somewhere.
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Old 01-08-09, 11:40 AM
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what is the valley?
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Old 01-08-09, 11:46 AM
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the valley is deepest center part of the rim, in other words it where you see the heads of the spoke's nipples in the rim.
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Old 01-08-09, 11:57 AM
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There are a couple of good videos on the Net. Google.
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Old 01-08-09, 12:04 PM
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I do not espouse the non use of levers. I use levers. That said, the following link has some good tips in it. Also, if you can warm the tire a bit, it really helps them go on easier. I will fold my tires a bit and secure theem with a big zip tie, and then set them on the drying rack in the clothes drier to warm prior to installation.

https://www.teamestrogen.com/content.ep?file=asa_levers
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Old 01-08-09, 12:26 PM
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Take care with positioning the valve, it should point to the hub. I use the nut to hold it in place.
Once you have as much of the tyre on as possible (and in the valley if you have one), you need to squeeze the slack around to the difficult sector (DF). Grab with both hands opposite the DF, massage the tyre in both directions towards the DF and you will get another portion mounted. I use levers very carefully, avoiding pinching the inner.
Once you have popped the tyre on you need to push the valve stem in to seat the tyre. Undo the outer nut if you tightened it earlier. Push the stem in gently a few mm, seat the tyre and pull the stem out.
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Old 01-08-09, 02:20 PM
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The mechanic might just be a lot stronger than you since he does this for a living. Do you use tire levers? I can't put on new tires without levers.
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Old 01-08-09, 02:37 PM
  #12  
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Don't try to install 650 tires onto 700 wheels.
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Old 01-08-09, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Garfield Cat
Don't try to install 650 tires onto 700 wheels.
Is that experience talking?
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Old 01-09-09, 06:22 PM
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Garfield Cat
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Actually yes. I had a stack of tubes still in the cartons and just grabbed one without looking. Luckily I was in the garage and not out on the road.
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Old 01-09-09, 06:45 PM
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1. Enough air in tube to hold some shape, insert tube into tire.
2. Put valve stem into hole (moisten to get through rim strip if nec) and mount one bead/side onto rim.
3. STARTING AT FURTHEST POINT FROM VALVE start mounting 2nd bead, pushing in both directions around toward valve stem. Check to make sure you can't see tube under bead of tire, if so just roll tire back and forth in that area.
4. When it starts getting difficult set wheel on ground (valve down) and go back to beginning, pushing bead toward center of valley and "scrubbing" toward valve again.
5. Using thumbs and palm push bead over rim until mounted.
6. Push valve up into tire and then push tire down to seat. Check again for tube under bead.
7. Pump to about 30-40lbs and check bead line (raised ridge near bead) to make sure it is the same distance from the rim all the way around. Deflate and recheck until OK.
8. Inflate to full pressure.

Optional but helpful to you and mechanics - mount the tire so that the label showing correct air pressure is at the valve, on the right side of the bike.

I have taught literally hundreds of people to mount tires in mechanic courses and consumer clinics using this method. Even though I had been a mechanic for several years I did not do the "valve stem last" until John Forrester (Effective Cycling) explained the advantages and I saw for myself how much easier it is. Almost never requires levers, even for an amateur.

Got to get this on Utube some time.

Last edited by cny-bikeman; 01-09-09 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 01-09-09, 09:44 PM
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The most important thing is to push down and slide both hands along the tire trying to stretch the "slack" to the other end. It should go in very easily without any tools.
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Old 01-10-09, 09:24 AM
  #17  
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+1 on this site...Levers? Levers? We Don't Need No Stinking Levers!.

I have rarely used levers since I read these directions and my hands are not very strong.
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Old 01-10-09, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by gmcttr
+1 on this site...Levers? Levers? We Don't Need No Stinking Levers!.

I have rarely used levers since I read these directions and my hands are not very strong.
Good instructions except that as I noted above it's easier if the area near the valve is mounted last (not right at the valve sometimes is better). The reason for this is that otherwise the valve will prevent the bead from sitting in the rim valley when you are trying to finish the mounting.
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Old 05-03-16, 09:23 AM
  #19  
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Every time I change a Continental Gatorskin I wonder whether I will need to get help from the mechanic at my bike shop. Next time I will mount the area near the valve last. I hope that makes it easier.
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Old 05-08-16, 05:54 PM
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What a long-lived thread! I have found Marathon Plus tires only possible to get on Rhyno-Lite Sun rims with the help of a Kool-Stop bead jack. Fortunately, the Marathon Plus doesn't get punctured readily and wears like... forever. So, this operation isn't done enough for me to have a lot of skill. But, most other tire and rim combinations are easy for me to mount without tools.
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Old 05-08-16, 06:04 PM
  #21  
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Does a Kool-Stop bead jack work as easily as this video shows?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtbT8EOgtKM

I just bought one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYML7K/...l_3z2rvad015_e

Thank you, dunelt_1954!

Last edited by johnlink; 05-08-16 at 06:19 PM.
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Old 05-08-16, 07:20 PM
  #22  
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do press ups on your thumbs
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Old 05-09-16, 07:30 AM
  #23  
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I have arthritis in my hands and am sensitive to this issue. Most of the above is helpful. A few things to add and highlight:
Veloplugs of thick tape like Velox does not help, this tape can.
The new "Tubeless Ready" rims coming out can have shallow center channel and be very difficult.
Soapy water as lube is your friend.
Some wire bead tires (Gatorskins) can be difficult.
Unless the tire is loose were you need to mount the value area first to hold it in place mounting that area last so as not to obstruct the center channel is valuable.
I carry a Kool-Stop tire jack with a shortened handle in my jersey until tires are worn in a little and afterward Continental levers.
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Old 05-09-16, 10:07 AM
  #24  
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I think folding tires are easier than wire beads.
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Old 05-09-16, 10:58 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Garfield Cat
Don't try to install 650 tires onto 700 wheels.
Or 700 tires onto 27" wheels - those are close enough it seems like they should work while you're doing it, too. I was replacing both tires and the back wheel was 700C and the front was 27"........
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