View Poll Results: Is this bike worth messing with?
Have some fun with this thing, it'll be worth it!
7
77.78%
Good grief, send that thing back!
2
22.22%
No one cares, lady!😂
0
0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 9. You may not vote on this poll
1991 Raleigh Technium Olympian; looking for feedback.
#26
Senior Member
Not every bike is destined for a re-birth as new. If it were mine, I would tear it down and put in some elbow grease. You'd be surprised what a thorough cleaning, a magic eraser, and some rubbing compound will do. Touch up the white paint (easy to match), re-grease all the bearings and put it all back together. Roll with the triple and the wider tires, dial in the canti brakes, and you have a path, gravel, road bike for as long as you want it. The eye focus on the cool graphics will hide a lot of sins. Update along the way if the mood strikes.
Last edited by sdn40; 07-24-21 at 05:07 PM.
#27
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Not every bike is destined for a re-birth as new. If it were mine, I would tear it down and put in some elbow grease. You'd be surprised what a thorough cleaning, a magic eraser, and some rubbing compound will do. Touch up the white paint (easy to match), re-grease all the bearings and put it all back together. Roll with the triple and the wider tires, dial in the canti brakes, and you have a path, gravel, road bike for as long as you want it. The eye focus on the cool graphics will hide a lot of sins. Update along the way if the mood strikes.
Have you done bearings? I was thinking that I'd want that done too, but was wondering if I should attempt it myself. Are there torque specs?
#28
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No, there's no torque specs for bearing cones that I'm aware of, and I wouldn't trust them if they existed, because circumstances alter cases. You adjust them by feel, and the differences between "too tight", "too loose", and "ahhh..perfect!" are not subtle. Just play with it, and you'll figure it out pretty quickly. Plus, it's almost impossible to do permanent damage to cup and cone bearings on the repair stand. It's possible, sure... but you'd have to really be trying to screw things up. (Like using a cheater bar or an impact gun or something.) It's riding them maladjusted, dry, and dirty that makes them die.
Working on bikes isn't really that hard. It's the weird incompatibilities and 14 competing standards for everything that will trip you up. The actual turning-the-wrenches part is pretty straightforward. (As long as you have the tools. Buy the tools.)
--Shannon
Last edited by ShannonM; 07-25-21 at 01:19 AM.
#29
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If you're going to overhaul the hubs and bottom bracket, the specialized tools (without which you cannot do the job at all so don't even try just buy the danged tools) will cost you way less than the labor. It's an easy but slow job, and when you're paying by the hour, it ends up costing a whole lot. If you have the correct bicycle-bearing-specific tools, it's not difficult, just a bit fiddly and slow the first few times you do it. If you don't, it's an impossible nightmare. Buy the tools. There are no good substitutes for bicycle cone wrenches, headset wrenches, and bottom bracket tools. Yes, they're way more expensive than they should be. That's because literally nothing else works.
No, there's no torque specs for bearing cones that I'm aware of, and I wouldn't trust them if they existed, because circumstances alter cases. You adjust them by feel, and the differences between "too tight", "too loose", and "ahhh..perfect!" are not subtle. Just play with it, and you'll figure it out pretty quickly. Plus, it's almost impossible to do permanent damage to cup and cone bearings on the repair stand. It's possible, sure... but you'd have to really be trying to screw things up. (Like using a cheater bar or an impact gun or something.) It's riding them maladjusted, dry, and dirty that makes them die.
Working on bikes isn't really that hard. It's the weird incompatibilities and 14 competing standards for everything that will trip you up. The actual turning-the-wrenches part is pretty straightforward. (As long as you have the tools. Buy the tools.)
--Shannon
No, there's no torque specs for bearing cones that I'm aware of, and I wouldn't trust them if they existed, because circumstances alter cases. You adjust them by feel, and the differences between "too tight", "too loose", and "ahhh..perfect!" are not subtle. Just play with it, and you'll figure it out pretty quickly. Plus, it's almost impossible to do permanent damage to cup and cone bearings on the repair stand. It's possible, sure... but you'd have to really be trying to screw things up. (Like using a cheater bar or an impact gun or something.) It's riding them maladjusted, dry, and dirty that makes them die.
Working on bikes isn't really that hard. It's the weird incompatibilities and 14 competing standards for everything that will trip you up. The actual turning-the-wrenches part is pretty straightforward. (As long as you have the tools. Buy the tools.)
--Shannon
#31
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#32
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#33
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#34
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I've got approximately 50% of the cable left. It's been badly damaged from pulling out. I'm a little nervous it's going to rip out and stab me while I'm messing with it👀
I think I need to know more about this, before I can diagnose, anyway. Moving it by hand, it has a lot of resistance. IDK what's normal, though. Is it a good idea for me to remove it, clean and lube it, before I mess with it?
Here are photos of the retention clip. Should the groove be there? I'm guessing this wear is abnormal and cutting the cable as it pulls through? What do you think?
I think I need to know more about this, before I can diagnose, anyway. Moving it by hand, it has a lot of resistance. IDK what's normal, though. Is it a good idea for me to remove it, clean and lube it, before I mess with it?
Here are photos of the retention clip. Should the groove be there? I'm guessing this wear is abnormal and cutting the cable as it pulls through? What do you think?
Something is amiss. adding some purchase to the cable- looping about the bolt will add surface area and assist, but there is plenty there to diagnose before reattaching the cable.
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#36
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Others might cringe, but RJ is not a bad source...the Park videos often are more modern stuff, but are also excellent.
Overhauling Bearings can be therapeutic...and once you have tools, are simply the cost of grease.
The tools will pay for themselves pretty quickly.
you might want to post a WTB and list tools. You never know what this group has on here!
Also, sometimes someone gets rid of a bunch of tools on CL or FB.
Overhauling Bearings can be therapeutic...and once you have tools, are simply the cost of grease.
The tools will pay for themselves pretty quickly.
you might want to post a WTB and list tools. You never know what this group has on here!
Also, sometimes someone gets rid of a bunch of tools on CL or FB.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
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The groove is supposed to be there to hold the cable. Throw the housing away and get all new.
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#39
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Thank you for all responses. I've been working crazy hours and haven't had time to mess with this bike, but I will soon. My 30 day return time ended yesterday.
The sale of the other Technium I wanted to look at has fallen through. The seller notified me that a friend wanted to turn it into a single speed. I asked if I could look at it anyway, as I'm trying to sort out sizing for myself, and also asked after any parts that were to be removed from it. No response:/
So, back to the front derailleur: I have one member suggesting the roughness of the retention assembly may be useful and another saying to replace. I'm considering removing the burr from the groove and continuing to use the existing assembly. I understand that if I deepen the groove, that may cause slippage also.
I'm going to order a new cable and front derailleur, get some new wrap on the handlebars and get it riding, then go from there. Wish me luck!🍀
The sale of the other Technium I wanted to look at has fallen through. The seller notified me that a friend wanted to turn it into a single speed. I asked if I could look at it anyway, as I'm trying to sort out sizing for myself, and also asked after any parts that were to be removed from it. No response:/
So, back to the front derailleur: I have one member suggesting the roughness of the retention assembly may be useful and another saying to replace. I'm considering removing the burr from the groove and continuing to use the existing assembly. I understand that if I deepen the groove, that may cause slippage also.
I'm going to order a new cable and front derailleur, get some new wrap on the handlebars and get it riding, then go from there. Wish me luck!🍀
#40
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I cleaned and lubed the front derailleur, took a magic eraser to it, gave it fresh wrap and it's looking and riding pretty good!
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#42
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Thanks Will! I'm still fiddling with it. It's got a toe trap on one pedal I haven't been able to get off, I've got a pair of water bottle holders on it now, and I'm going to drop the seat and bar stem an inch each and rotate the bars down a bit. I'm not done fiddling with the travel on the front derailleur yet, either. Fun!