Does anyone switch between clipless and toe clips on the same bike?
#1
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Does anyone switch between clipless and toe clips on the same bike?
When I built up my de rosa, I put chorus (maybe victory?) pedals on it and duplicated the setup on my Litespeed, which I was professionally fitted for. Same saddle-BB setback, reach, etc... I even took into account the difference in pedal/cleat stack heights. The bike felt OK, but was less than what I expected in terms of ride quality.
This morning, I threw on speedplays for my commute, and the fit is definitely more inline with what I expected. I realized that it's not just the difference in how you pedal. The clipless also locks you into a different position. I realized that I even sat further back on the saddle and evened out the center of balance around the BB even more.
I love having one bike that you can wear street shoes on a regular basis. I was just trying to figure out what pedal system the de rosa should rock, so I've been switching back and forth to decide. Definitely clipless for this one. Anyone else notice the change in fit?
This morning, I threw on speedplays for my commute, and the fit is definitely more inline with what I expected. I realized that it's not just the difference in how you pedal. The clipless also locks you into a different position. I realized that I even sat further back on the saddle and evened out the center of balance around the BB even more.
I love having one bike that you can wear street shoes on a regular basis. I was just trying to figure out what pedal system the de rosa should rock, so I've been switching back and forth to decide. Definitely clipless for this one. Anyone else notice the change in fit?
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I run both Shimano 600 Aero Pedals and Crank Bros Candy 3's on my Gazelle. The toe clip and my shoe cleat are set up so that my foot is in the same position over the spindle. I don't ever feel any difference in fit.
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I do toeclips exclusively, but I would agree w/ 20grit -- if your foot is rotated properly for you and the ball of the foot is over the pedal spindle, there should be no difference.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#4
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I have more than one pedal wrench, so changing pedals takes no time, really.
Have Lyotard 460D pedals on the old Cross bike,, , Fisher's version of a double toe clip.
made the esoteric step of cutting the toe strap and screwing it to the ends of the pedals..
road bike the Mavic 640 seem OK.. I do have a couple Time ATAC SPuD pedals, and some shoes,
I can switch them easily enough , if the seat height seems off I change it..
Have Lyotard 460D pedals on the old Cross bike,, , Fisher's version of a double toe clip.
made the esoteric step of cutting the toe strap and screwing it to the ends of the pedals..
road bike the Mavic 640 seem OK.. I do have a couple Time ATAC SPuD pedals, and some shoes,
I can switch them easily enough , if the seat height seems off I change it..
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-16-13 at 07:05 PM.
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I started to switch pedals on one bike, then received some good advice from another C&Ver, DON'T. Your cranks were not designed to have the pedal threads routinely screwed in and out and properly tightened. You might not have a problem, but they're alloy, not steel. If you begin to wear the threads, your cranks are toast. Changing a few times is no problem, but regular changing is not something I would recommend.
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#6
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TA pedal washers take care of the crank faces.. but I mostly ride my platform pedal Ergon,
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#7
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I don't change them regularly, but a pair of eggbeaters and campy NR pedals with clips/straps. Put those on tonight and proceeded to snap a toe clip while riding (plastic one). Didn't notice any change really in riding position/saddle height.
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I started to switch pedals on one bike, then received some good advice from another C&Ver, DON'T. Your cranks were not designed to have the pedal threads routinely screwed in and out and properly tightened. You might not have a problem, but they're alloy, not steel. If you begin to wear the threads, your cranks are toast. Changing a few times is no problem, but regular changing is not something I would recommend.
Perhaps you are right and that it's in my head. I do notice that with non-clipless pedals, there is more pressure being placed on the ball where there may be less in a rigid-shoe clipless setup (since the arches don't fatigue as easily). I'll have to take a look at my setup, but my pro-fit has my cleats a little bit to the rear of the ball of my foot/axle.