polymorphself 

I'm realizing I was reading some of the thread quickly and conflating some terminology.

That said, the 700c wheel/hub set in question is the only one I'll have to use here, and rebuilding the rear wheel for a free hub/cassette isn't an option.

polymorphself 

So the tire/fender gap question is solved with a wine cork.

Now I need to decided whether to:

A) Continue using the 7sp freewheel and use a shorter fender screw. The closeness of the freewheel to the chain stay seems like it may not be an issue.

B) Find a 6sp freewheel. This would be in spec measurement wise, if it matters, and give me the chance to get a less worn freewheel, though this one isn't. bad.

abdon 

I prefer a spring setup. It allows you to push the fender in so you can have an easier time removing the wheel



It takes a bit of work to get the hardware to fit but worth the effort.

squarenoise 

Yes! Another vote for the Spring Thing! Being able to remove the wheel without deflating the tire is a huge bonus.

polymorphself 

Thanks. Any recommendations for a freewheel that fits the bill?

abdon 

Shimano Hyperglide freewheel. Much better shifting.

Classtime 

Let me toss another consideration while you research FWs: Your Trek is set up with 1/2 step + granny. If you've never learned how that works, you owe it to yourself to check it out. My 620 had it and it was really really neat with the original Helicomatic. It was almost as neat with 700c Shimano hubs and a FW I had on hand. I was about to go custom FW with IRD when I sold the TREK.
So....play with a gear calculator and the FWs you are considering, stay 6 speed, have a look at IRD (I think they are fine), or have Pastorbob build you one, have fun.

polymorphself 

Thanks for the reply. My daily rider is an 86 Voyageur with 1/2 step+granny so definitely familiar. I’m totally neutral towards it, but perhaps at this point would miss it were I to switch. I haven’t ridden anything else in 3 years.

The pastorbobnlnh idea isn’t a bad one. He helped me out with a freewheel cleaning about 6 years ago and it was a great service.

polymorphself 

Update: Pulled the trigger on a nice looking Shimano 600 EX 13-24 (MF6208). We'll see how this goes.

abdon 

You would have gotten a giant improvement on your shifting if you would have gone with the hyperglide I mentioned, specially under load. It would have also been at a fraction of the cost.

Jeff Neese

None whatsoever.

An 83" Trek 720 is one of the most perfectly designed bicycles ever made. Some of us have put many thousands of miles on ours, under a wide variety of conditions, over many years. It was designed as a 126mm 6-speed. Keep it that way. It's no surprise that the donor wheel with the 7-speed doesn't fit very well. It's not supposed to.

You're on the right path buying a replacement 6-speed, but as someone else pointed out, could you have found a HG version? Hyperglide really does shift smoother.

polymorphself 

Is this what you're referencing? I'm seeing a lot of hyperglide cassettes, but few freewheels: https://www.ebay.com/itm/12513917321...Bk9SR9aO5uHMYg

abdon 

Here's one:

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-TZ500.../dp/B073XV284Z

If you look at the teeth they are not evenly cut, they are designed so when you shift teeth on the next sprocket engage the chain before it leaves the previous one. This gives you oh so much better shifting specially under load, which considering yours is a touring bike I would think you will face that more often than not.

Long story short Hyperglide is the technology they incorporated into their then new hub system which years later they retrofitted into the freewheels they still make.

abdon 

Meh. I have a 135mm mountain bike hub on mine with 0 issues. While I do have freewheels on some of my other bikes I was doing fully loaded touring on this one so the stronger hub was an improvement. That triple cross 36h Shimano XT laced to Velocity Dyad rim is good enough to be mounted on a tandem bike.

chain_whipped

Sometimes there's too much negativity with armchair bikey forum experts that for some the best they've physically done is used a slip joint plier on removing hex head bolts (as seen on Youtube... not joking).

Its just a bike hub, axle thingy apparatus. There's nothing complicated, just hollow threaded rods, spacer / washers and nuts. All readily available and cost pittance. Don't ever think it. Have 6 speed freewheels on 120mm spaced and worked perfect for years. Seven speed Shimano Mega-range freewheel on 125mm spaced used with a heavy duty rigged early Trek 520. Also, years of using what the experts dread 'Helicomatic' hubs. Bye.

polymorphself 

Thanks both, I have purchased the HG above and cancelled the 600 order. Not loving the largest cog being black but it's irrelevant, sounds like this will fit well and shift well and, yes, was very inexpensive!

niliraga 

when i've not been patient enough to find the right wine cork to drill, the guts of old screw-fixed bar end plugs have also worked a treat in this role, depending on the distance you need to span.

abdon 

If it makes you feel better my otherwise full campagnolo '69 Schwinn Paramount has a twist tooth 5 speed Shimano free wheel. They don't make a 5 speed hyperglide but the twist tooth shifts better than the straight cut original free wheel.

ThermionicScott 

Is it just the perspective, or is the eyelet bent inward a little?

RiddleOfSteel

Looks a little bent inward to me as well. Not that unbending it would net a solution to the problem, but it all helps, haha.

polymorphself 

Huh, good catch. It just may be…Here are some photos, as well as NDS comparisons. The frame in general is in immaculate condition. Only 3 or 4 slight scratches on the fork blade and some decal scuffs, otherwise nearly perfect. Single owner and garage kept outside of a few tours in the early 90’s.

If bent, possible to be a factory oversight? I don’t see any sign of damage or stress.

The more I look at it I’m wondering if the dropout itself is titled in a bit?

Hobbiano 

It would be a good idea to check your dropout alignment. Does the axle seem straight on the wheel that came with it when you turn it? I don't know if I'd try to straighten the fender braze on by itself but if the dropout is out of alignment that should be straightened to avoid axle or bearing damage. And that could be why the braze on appears to be bent in.
Google dropout alignment tool. Its an easy and quick job if you know someone who has the tool and knows how to use it. Very simple to do.

busdriver1959

Getting back to the bolt. It needs to be replaced with a stainless bolt that is cut to the correct length, no threads sticking out. After cutting, file the end to a slight dome shape, sand and then polish to a mirror finish. The mirror finish won’t affect the performance of the bike in any way but you’ll be able to look down with disdain on all those cyclists out there with unpolished bolts.

squarenoise 

That Drive side dropout definitely looks bent, but at least it's a fairly painless fix.

Regarding the 7speed freewheel, I have that same Sachs paired with 7speed Shimano bar ends and it shifts REALLY well in index mode. Sure not quite as nice as Hyperglide, but totally acceptable.

Your rear spacing also looks like it's enough to clear the chain, especially after addressing the bent dropout and too long fender screw. If the cain isn't rubbing the dropout, I'd ride as is.

I've seen a lot of comments regarding the potential for bent axels and/or weeker wheels do to the extra dish and I'm not discrediting those claims, but I'd think there are extra factors to consider. Like rider weight, loaded vs unloaded, type of terrain, etc. I personally wouldn't ride my 7speed freewheel bikes cross country, but have no worries riding them around town.

fender1

Me too. Faster and easier than cutting a bolt IME.