markhr

Good luck with the hunt


If you're anywhere near london then I'd strongly recommend talking to any of these four shops, in order of my personal preference:

https://www.condorcycles.com/store.html - quite possibly the best in London

https://www.brixtoncycles.co.uk/find_us.html - almost as popular with couriers as condor - always a good sign

https://www.onyourbike.com/ - massive shop near london bridge station

https://www.bikefix.co.uk/index.php?u...&bsm_code=#a61 - another shop with a good reputation

edit: four - doh!

bautieri

No problem Dave, we're all happy to help out and offer advice so long as your willing to listen or in this case read. I hope I didn't come across as condescending when I mentioned that you could put slicks on a mountain bike. Let me clarify a bit. By putting slicks on the mountain bike you are only changing the tire itself, not the rim size. The rims would remain 26in not 700c/29in...unless you decided to purchase a 29er but we'll forget about them for now. The tires will still be as wide as the knobbies you replaced only much better on the road. You will be able to corner tighter, go faster, and break in a shorter distance with the slicks than you could with the knobbies. That last bit is due to the slicks having additional surface area in contact with the pavement at all times. As far as off roading, its all what you want to do with it. I have over 1000 miles on my Mojave (mountain bike) and maybe 100 were actual off road. The rest was commuting and paved Multi Use Paths.

Its very true that touring bikes are the best suited for long distance riding. There is no arguing that point. However each bike style has its strengths and weaknesses. Gears are gears, you shouldn't have to worry too much about them unless you meant the derailures, the little doodads that change the gears. These are the most delicate part on the bicycle, you have to be careful and make sure you don't accidentally smack them on a tree, mailbox, curb, doorway etc. Also, if you have to lay your bike down always lay it on its left side so its not resting on the derailure. Second most delicate part on a bicycle will be the rims, specifically the rear one that carries the bulk of the weight. The most stout rims will be your 26in, however 700c (skinny race type) wheels can be built up to be nearly bullet proof. Rims will be where you spend the majority of your money, often times a good solid set of hand built rims will run you the purchase price of the bicycle itself. But that's when you go to the extreme with them. Moderately priced but still strong rims might set you back a few hundred dollars (or considerably less Euros given the exchange rate). With any bicycle decision maintenance is the key. A well maintained low end bicycle will preform better than a poorly maintained top end model. See your dealer for maintenance intervals and make sure you actually stick to the schedule. Go find a shop you like and test ride every type of bicycle, ride the skinny race one, ride a touring bike, ride a comfort bike, and ride a mountain bike. Get a feel for each type of bike and buy the one you decide you cant live without. Also budget for a helmet. Remember to take pictures and share your adventures with us. It helps to keep everyone motivated.

Bau

DaveW

Condescending? Not at all Bau. I need all the help I can get.

I know how boring it is having to explain fundamentals to someone like me who don't know - but I am getting there.

You were right when you mentioned Derailleur when I thought it meant gears instead of the things that run them. As with all the other bits and bobs, I shouldn't try and take in to much info at this stage but just get a bike and get on with it and go from there. I do however find it fascinating even though I know very little.

steve2k

incase you missed it in my earlier ramblings, if you're going to commute to work (even just a few times) see if your employer is in the bike2work scheme. You could save up to 50% on the cost of a bike, helmet, lights, lock, clothes etc.

Little Darwin

If the objective is to carry around a large rider, there is no need to even approach the $2,000 figure.

Buy any bike without carbon from a major manufacturer.

I have over 3,000 miles on a 2003 Sedona DX with total maintenance (beyond normal tuning and tire replacement) of 1 broken spoke. A couple of changes for personal taste like rigid forks, but nothing that was required for weight. I weigh 350 pounds.

That is a $400 bike that many people wouldn't waste their time to look at, and it still rides well.

Other than frame/fork and wheels, there is usually nothing on a bike that needs to be extra strong due to rider weight.

With some exceptions, in the cycling world, spending more money gets you a lighter weight bike... which is more likely to break under heavy load than an inexpensive bike.

Other than a few bikes, I would crumple almost any $3,000 or higher bike on the market within a week simply by riding it, but I can ride the low end stuff with no fear.

DaveW

Hi guys, starting to piece this whole thing together. Can someone advice me on what chainring I need. Is it or would it be the same as a triple on a Mountain bike? I'm asking because of my size and the problem with long inclines or small hills.

markhr

A triple will give you a bail out gear. You can get around this by using a compact double (110pcd) but you may lose a few gear inches at the top end. Personally, I use a compact double but central London's not exactly the swiss alps.

DaveW

I was looking at the Specialized Globe Sport which has lower gears so wondered if this kind of thing would be ok?

I have a few hills where I live but many more long inclines including the road I live in. I'm not confident at being able to tackle long inclines or short hills straight away. Also this bike is far less than my original budget which seems everyone's opinion to be to big for a beginner. Also there is a shop not to far away that deals with Specialized so I could give it a whirl before buying.

Any thoughts?

steve2k

Go give it a whirl and see what you think.
As for long inclines and hills, don't be afraid to get into your lowest gear to go up hills. It's much easier on your knees and muscles and better for burning fat (I think but looking at me you'll see I'm no expert on this).
It's not a race to the top, and there are no prizes for arriving with knackered knees.

Little Darwin

For the long inclines, just grab a lower gear and don't get consumed by how long it looks.

The trick is to drop down a gear or two, and pedal just like you are on the flats, only slower... psychologically I think it can seem difficult because the destination (the top of the incline) doesn't ever seem to get closer. I don't know how to deal with that except to pretend that you are in some Wonderland where the road is longer than it looks, but have fun with it. I really think that if you concentrate on enjoying the ride you will just get up without too much trouble.

And if you need a little extra motivation, think about the fun of going down the descent, which is to follow.

DaveW

Can I clarify something please. A suggestion by Bau was to get a Mountain bike and change the tires, but I notice they have 32 spokes and the advice I have been given is to get 36. So do I need new wheels as well as tires?

Black Shuck

No, 26" 32 spoke wheels are plenty strong. You might want slick tires on it for street/road riding. I'm around 210lb and have been jumping rocks and logs with 32 spoke mountainbike wheels since November. If mountainbikes interest you, check out the Kona Hoss Deluxe. It's heavy but foolproof.

late

1) You have 2 choices with gearing. Road crank and Mtn bike crank.
With a road triple the smallest ring is 30T and a Mtn bike crank will have a
small ring that's 24T or 26T.

My impulse with an adult getting back into cycling and looking at touring would
be to suggest the Mtn crank.

For your first cassette, I suggest getting a 34T bailout gear. When you get in better shape you can change it. But I spend a lot of time in my granny gear when I'm in the mountains.

2) Since you have the money, and want to tour, why not get a touring bike?
If you want to play in the dirt, next year get a Mtn bike. The old adage of 'jack of all trades, master of none' applies here.

3) Wheels are a LOT tougher than they were in the old days. 32 spokes is plenty
if it's a strong rim. 4 spokes just doesn't add that much, but the rim needs to be strong enough to deal with what you throw at it.

I forget if you plan on touring with a tent and everything. That adds a lot of weight, and you should be looking at rims that are pretty strong. You can economise elsewhere, but get good wheels. The Velocity Dyad makes a good wheel.
https://www.velocityusa.com/default.asp?contentID=584

...Have you done any test rides yet?

markhr

+1

I weigh 95kg and ride on 32 spoke 700c wheels (29" mtb equivalent) with no problems.

markhr

Sorry, buddy, that isn't quite correct.

Crankset choice is divided, most commonly, between single, double and triple chainrings. It doesn't matter if it's a mountain or a road crankset you will have those options available.

Also, there are multiple PCD (pitch circle diameter) sizes available in all the crankset options giving almost unlimited large chain ring sizes (as long as it clears the ground and you can actually pedal, that is). Low gearing is limited by the PCD but, given that one of smallest commonly available crankset pcds is 74mm, this can handle a chainring of just 24 teeth.

A blurb from Specialities TA on pcd - https://www.specialites-ta.com/produi...adapt_1_gb.htm

Another chart of chainrings they make by pcd - https://www.specialites-ta.com/produi...ture-route.pdf

DaveW

Mark, I weigh 300 pounds which is about 136 kilos.

Late, I am putting together a few options and then hoping to try some in the next few days.

markhr

a C&A wheel thread - https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=394487

mkadam68

Don't forget to save some $$$ for accessories:

clothing (shorts, jersey, gloves), helmet, water bottles, tube patch kit, frame pump, etc...

I would think $200 or less should do it (100 pounds or so)