89 Schwinn Tempo
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89 Schwinn Tempo
I just got this 19" tempo frame and put all the components from a 23" nishiki that came with 27" wheels. I'm having clearance issues in the front. I'm wondering why or if this tempo came with 24" wheels I don't know. Doesn't look like it in the rear.
Says 700c wheels for the tempo
Says 700c wheels for the tempo
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27" <> 700c.
Also 20mm sounds kind of skinny whereas a 27" tire is probably closer to 28-32 mm, so larger compared to 20mm.
Also 20mm sounds kind of skinny whereas a 27" tire is probably closer to 28-32 mm, so larger compared to 20mm.
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The Tempo is designed for 700c wheels, with a max tire clearance of 28mm. A 27" rim is 8mm larger in diameter than 700c. I would recommend finding a set of 700c wheels for it.
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I know you’d like us to ask all the questions up front, so I’ll oblige: Did you know 27” diameter wheels were a different size than 700c? Honest question. They can appear similar.
EDIT: Didn’t see your post above before I asked my question.
EDIT: Didn’t see your post above before I asked my question.
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I knew the diameter was different but it was different in the opposite way. I always thought 700c is a 29" wheel for some reason. I threw on a 700c wheel.
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29" and 700c rims are actually the same size. 27" is called 27" because that is roughly the outer diameter of the tire if you use a standard 27"x1 1/4". If you add a 2.1" wide tire to a 700c rim, the outer diameter of the tire is roughly 29". Wheel and tires sizes have lots of confusing naming schemes.
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I just got this bianchi that is too big for me I thought that I could lower it by putting on these 27" wheels. Now I know thats not the case.
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Pretty comical as well with Vittoria and especially with their 700c tubular tires having 28" inked on the sidewall.
Anyways, your Tempo bike as stated is fitted for 700c, a smaller ERD than the old US standard 27".
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An easier way to sort through the marketing sizes is to pay attention to the ISO or ETRTO number molded on the side of modern tires. This number is also known as the Bead Seat Diameter (BSD).
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No shame in being confused by rim and tire sizes, it is almost as if it is intentionally obtuse, easy to get mixed up
Check out these links if you would like to learn more/have your brain melt:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rim-sizing.html - Rim sizing
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html - Tire sizing
Check out these links if you would like to learn more/have your brain melt:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rim-sizing.html - Rim sizing
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html - Tire sizing
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That's funny. Just went and got this frame because I had my dad stand over the nishiki and it was a bit high for him. If id known what I know now I would have just put some 700c wheels like I wanted to but thought it would raise it. Ugh I guess I'm doing double work now. Popping out those steerer tube and fork races again 👌
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Those Tempos are a fast and fun bike and in my opinion Schwinn put many nice touches on the frameset. Do we get pics of the whole bike?
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I'm not doing that double work but I am lol I had my dad stand over it this one. He said it was perfect. I think it could be one size bigger and he would say the same. He's not too particular. I'm shopping for a roller to put the nishiki back together bc it's nice. Still need a few things on the tempo. The tempos paint is pretty dang rough but idc it's kinda light with steel 700c cassette wheels and it tings real nice. It's should be a fun bike when done. Sun tour ar derailleur dia comp brakes. I want to eventually put the dual brake levers. The ones where you actually four brake levers on your bike. I don't care about aesthetics. Is there an updated version of those I could buy?
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That Nishiki is a stunning shade of blue.
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Thanks you and those are old aluminum handle bars should I get rid of those? Bc of how aluminum degrades faster than steel and all that jazz.
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Those bars look perfectly fine and usable from where I sit. Usually, steel corrodes faster than aluminum. Are they oxidized in any way, where sweat might have remained under the tape for an extended period of time?
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Up and over the bars down the left side of the stem. The left front cable goes up and over the bars down the right side. Both cables go down behind the bars. (Also slide the brake lever up the bars so their tips are level with the drops.)
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To add specifics to the original wheel size discussion, a 700C wheel is 622mm bead diameter. a 27" (27 x 1-1/4) wheel is 630mm bead diameter.
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That's funny. Just went and got this frame because I had my dad stand over the nishiki and it was a bit high for him. If id known what I know now I would have just put some 700c wheels like I wanted to but thought it would raise it. Ugh I guess I'm doing double work now. Popping out those steerer tube and fork races again 👌
You want to be able to raise the seat post enough to get some flex from it when riding but not be extending your knee to 100% straight on the peddle stroke. You want just a slight bend in the knee through the longest part of the stroke. After that, some people want a lower seat post for less drop to the bars and some want a more aggressive riding position with their seat a lot higher than their bars.
As for stand over height, my most comfortable long-range bikes are tall enough that they need leaned if I'm standing over the top tube with both feet on the ground. My seat post is basically even with the bars on one bike and a little lower on another from a taller stem geometry.
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