SethB

So, video explains it all. There is a LOUD clunk clunk noise from hub when coasting.. I can feel it throughout the whole bike too. Time to replace? Or can it be fixed?

Also, if replacing: I kind of want to upgrade to a wider rim for wider tires, would buying the whole setup be cheaper, or would buying them separate and lacing it all together myself be cheaper?

Seems to only make the noise really bad at a specific spot, so like rotating the crankarms changes how loud the clunk is.

Thanks.

VID:

Andrew R Stewart 

Sounds like a bearing noise, possibly a cracked race/cone in the freehub body? If so and if the parts are available replacing just the FH body could be done. But not knowing the details it's impossible for us to say much specific about repair possibility and/or cost. Cheap "basic/repair grade" wheels can be as little as $50 and high end "component" wheels can cost many $100. Buying the hub and reusing the spokes might be doable but that's a lot of cost/work to retain all the wear that the spokes and rim already have. Generally a pre made wheel will cost close to that of the separate parts, before lacing labor is figured in. Andy

WizardOfBoz

Maybe a bearing cone, but what about a pawl that came loose? Pretty easy to pull the cogs and check. Until then, premature to say "go ahead and buy a new wheel!".

Suggest that this is a ready, aim fire situation rather than a ready fire aim one.

hrdknox1

Most likely a bad bearing. I would search the internet for instructions on how to remove the bearings. As you get to the bearings you will identify any other cause. If it is a bearing, I would replace both. The cost for this repair is a fraction of buying a wheel.

HillRider

Is the noise there only when coasting or also when pedaling? If only when coasting, the problem is most likely in the freehub body. If both then it's probably a wheel bearing.

If you want a different rim, then buying a premade wheel is probably the better choice.

SethB

It's definitely only there during coasting. Any other time it's fine. It's also weird that it's only at a specific spot. So like spinning the crank changes the the loudness of the clunk.

I'll have to see if LBS has a cassette lock ring tool, only tool I don't have 😔 then I can pull it apart and dive in.

Would you guys recommend not riding till it's fixed? Can I at least commute short distances?

alcjphil

First thing I would do would be to take the wheel off the bike and spin the cassette backward by hand to see if you can feel where the freehub is catching. If this gets worse, the freehub could possibly lock up and you would not be able to coast and the derailleur could be sucked into the cogs and all heck could break out, so riding the bike could be a crapshoot.. Referring back to your original post, wider tires do not necessarily require wider rims, within reason of course. Often, frame/fork clearance is the limiting factor when it comes to wider tires

Miele Man

I'd also check and make sure it's not the bottom bracket. I'd substitute a spare wheel if I had one and see if the noise goes away.

Cheers

PdalPowr

Definitely sounds like a hub gremlin.🤔


Be careful they can get nasty.😉

Bill Kapaun

With the wheel removed, you can also check for a broken axle or bad axle bearings.

SethB

Yeah... I just put a new RD on.. would not be happy if that happened.. Maybe I'll throw the old one on.. its broken anyhow so if it goes into the cogs oh well..

But about the tires - I read that the rim should not fall below 37ish percent of the width of the tire. I have 16mm wide rims. I think I can get away with 2.6 wide tires on my frame. I have 2.4 on now and plenty of room. If I put the 2.6 wide tires on my current rims, they would buldge and not be flat enough to give me full traction - while doable, I read that its not advised.

BB is brand new, plus, the noise is NOT there while peddling, so it can't be the BB anyhow.

Great! I have enough SAAB gremlins, don't need any more gremlins!!!!!

Is this done by simply putting finger in and feeling the bearing move around? How do I do that without pulling apart everything?

Bill Kapaun

If you have a broken axle, you'll have a couple pieces of loose axle.
If not broken, rotate slowly and feel for roughness.

Don't you have ANY incentive to do SOME BASIC INSPECTION?

SethB

Im not sure I understand your last sentence

I have done basic inspection? Its all inside.. nothing much I can do. I guess the reason I asked was because when I had the wheel off nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I am getting my cassette lock ring tool and chain whip tomorrow, that will further help with the inspection. So until then, I have done quite a bit of inspection but can't really determine anything.

Andrew R Stewart 

By "inspection" Bill likely means take stuff apart and look. There's no way we here in front of our computers can do the work to give you a specific and correct answer. I think Bill is reflecting the opinion that many old timers share. Real answers are not found when those asking don't look for them and this interweb world makes many believe that they get all the answers by asking others. Andy

SethB

Normally I do take everything apart. But I didn't have the cassette tool till today. All I could do was take off the wheel. Which didn't really prove anything.

But. I got the cassette and axle apart. Axle is good, needs cleaning and grease but nothing broken. Definitely in freehub body/pawls.

Is there a way to take that apart to access everything inside? I'm gonna clean it all good with Carb cleaner or brake cleaner. I would like to soak it in mineral spirits tho, so taking it apart would be best.

This is what I wanna take apart, where the cassette goes on, I wanna slide that off.

Bill Kapaun

Some Shimano hubs use a 10mm hex wrench.
You haven't identified your hub, so who knows?

SethB

This is all I got from the trek website:

Formula DC22 Rear Alloy hub

SethB

So it appears that if I use a 10mm (or similar) allen key, I could remove the freehub from the wheel. Will that then allow me to take apart the actual freehub and service the pawls and such inside? I would hate to clean it out without being able to regrease everything again. I may just spray what I can with brake cleaner and drop some oil in wherever I can.

SethB

Now, from what I am learning, it either has sealed bearings, or not. Is there a way to check without taking it apart? I guess only by finding some sort of service manual?

Mad Honk 

Seth,
Removing the freehub won't make disassembly any easier. There appears to be a grease seal above the actual races of the freehub. If that is the case you will need to remove the seal to exposed two slots in the bearing race that will allow you to disassemble the freehub. Shimano makes a tool for that but the one I have doesn't engage the slots very well, so I made a tool with an old socket and a dremmel blade. To remove the race you need to remember that it is a left hand thread, so turn it to the right. ONLY loosen the race (don't remove it), and then remove the freehub from the hub body. You can then disassemble the freehub on the bench. Do so over a cloth or shop towel, as there are between 51 and 115 1/16" bearings inside the freehub and they will all spill out as you disassemble it. After it is open you can do an inspection and see what is damaged. HTH, MH

SethB

Thank you! Then I can just remove the dust cap and the race with it attached to the wheel? Good. Gonna try that now. I appreciate the help, honestly

fishboat

Youtube has "RJ The Bike Guy" that offers some good videos. This one may help:


https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCaA...2xiBbAUVZsvDYQ

Mad Honk 

Bill K,
My bet is on a broken pawl, which will likely result in the need for a new freehub. Smiles, MH

SethB

This helped SO MUCH. Thank you man.


Surprisingly, nothing was broken! However, I don't think there was any grease left, and what was left was clumps of dirt. I cleaned everything out, regreased it, and now its whisper quite. We will see how long this lasts. Cones and races didn't show signs of pitting either. I think I got lucky this time. I never had the proper tools to maintenance this so I never did it and I could've been in for a much worse experience. I do admit, it seems like the pawls are really worn, or the spring mechanism is worn, or both. Occasionally, when pedaling, I can feel it skip once then catch. I felt this before I took it apart and wasn't sure what it was, but after looking inside the freehub, its obvious its the pawls.

Thank you to all for helping me out with this. Sorry I was a little all over the place

Now, about upgrading, if I get a new hub/wheel assembly in the future, are cassettes cross compatible with all hubs?