jethin

Anybody have an orphan double right crank, 170mm, preferably with rings for a beater? A basic SR or the like would work just fine. Square taper, BCD 130 or 110 if rings aren’t included. (Edited as per below.)

delbiker1 

What kind of bb interface, BCD?

smontanaro 

jethin sounds like you need to sign up for the Box o' Crap.

jethin

You’re right, but I’m the kind of party pooper who wants to know what’s in the boxes before Christmas morning.

nlerner

I have this Nervar Star with 52/42 rings. Yours for the cost of mailing via USPS Priority Mail. Add some cheap French flair to that project!

jethin

Well that's about perfect. I'll pm you. "I love it when a trade comes together." John "Hannibal" Smith

jameskm

Looking for Sachs huret duopar titanium rear derailleur for my trek 720!

VintageSteelEU

I just got myself a set of hubs for my lightweight Motobecane "Superbe" project. So I thought it might be time to start completing some other bits and bobs for the build. I'm not looking for items that are absolutely perfect, NOS or whatever. They have to be in usable condition and servicable, of course, but I will be probably cleaning and polishing all the components as needed anyway. I do have backup plans in place and can find the items I'm looking for or something close enough. But thought I'll ask here first, also in case someone is looking for one of the items I have accumulated (hoarded). I'm doing a clearance and advertising them elsewhere, so the list might get shorter eventually. Please bear in mind I'm based in the UK, so delivery times on both sides will be longer (and postage more expensive) if you live elsewhere.

Stuff for trade, most of it used but in decent or very good condition:
Ultegra 6400/6401 hubset, 32H, HG/UG 6/7sp with skewers from 6200 groupset
Ultegra 6400 front hub 36H with skewer from 1055/6 (I think)
Tiagra 4500 hubset, 32H, very little use, almost NOS, no rear skewer, front skewer Tiagra 4500 (currently laced on Exal XR2 rims, can take them off)
Cinelli 1A stem, 100mm, for French steerer (22mm) - this is a model without a "dot" marking it originally was 22mm, so in other words: it must have been previously modified to fit French steerer tubes
Cinelli Campione del Mondo Handlebar 42cm with grooves for cables
Maillard hubset 1988 front, 1990 rear, English thread, 36H, solid axle
Campagnolo Xenon front hub, 36h, good condition
Shimano Exage HB-RM50 front hub, 36h, NOS
Miche primato seatpost, 26.8, grey anodised, very nice
Sakae RIngyo Custom CT-P3 seatpost, 26.4 (I think, will have to dig it out and double check) NOS
Huret Success Titane derailleur set (RD - for Campy standard dropouts, FD, Shifters), works fine and complete, not pristine
Miche Performance dual pivot brake set, 57mm reach, VGC, new pads
Some Weinmann Vainqueur 999 centre pull calipers in 610 and 710 versions
Shimano Ultegra 6400 downtube shifters, NOS
Shimano Ultegra 6400 bottom bracket, NOS
Shimano Ultegra 6400 derailleur set (RD and FD), good working condition, original pulley wheels
Shimano 1056 derailleur set (RD and FD), good working condition, original pulley wheels
Shimano Ultegra RD, good working condition, replacement pulley wheels
Suntour SVX derailleur set, good working condition
Suntour Compe V front derailleur NOS
Lyotard Berthet 9/16" pedals, decent used condition (not pristine, work well)
Plus a whole bunch of modern parts, which I have in case any of my friends need a new bicycle, but there's basically a complete commuting modern bike in there.

What I'm looking for:
I'm not really looking for anything, but there are some bits I could use:
Sakae Ringyo Swiss BB cups (SI marked on the drive side, if I remember correctly. NDS can be regular 35x1 French). I do have a spindle that will hopefully work with their cups (as it seems all their BB for 68mm shells were using the same spindle measurements). Alternatively, any Swiss threaded BB with ISO spindle in 112-114 range.
Sakae Ringyo SP-200AL/BL 9/16" pedals
Sakae Ringyo Royal Racer (RY-RC) or World Custom (WS-420SL or WS-420, with "double tube" in the mid section) handlebar
Triple crankset, JIS, BCD 130, or some 1x crankset, JIS taper, chairing has to be replacable. 170mm crank arm
Suntour ratcheting downtube shifters, but the later variety (LD-4850, not LD-1500)
28mm metric (French) seat tube, long enough to replace the current 58cm one (so needs to be a few cm longer for mitering). Current one I'm planning to replace is Columbus SL and I don't know if the replacement one can be any steel, but hopefully yes
Aluminium spacers for rear bicycle hubs, any make
Shifter clamp for the regular Suntour Power SHifters from the 70's
Weinmann straddle for centre pull brakes

rustystrings61 

EDIT: Got one through a fellow BF member, and thanks!

As it says above, looking for a 36T 110bcd chainring for a mad scientist project. I also would love to score 16 and 18T single-speed cogs for a Shimano freehub. I have stuff I can trade including stems, handlebars, chainrings, road and mountain bike bits, etc.

Thanks in advance!

EDITED TO HAVE CORRECT BCD!

Portlandjim

I have 2 Campagnolo #804 36t inner chainrings, one NOS the other used in good condition. I am taking at least a week off, bike rides in the eastern sierra, so can't get photos or ship anything until I get back. $50 shipped in the USA

for the used one. Jim Merz

rustystrings61 

Sorry, my mistake - I need a 110 bcd, and preferably very cheap as this is for a beater.

Lovely stuff you have there, though, and I think I need to thank you for the design of the '88 Sirrus I should be riding!

danarello

Does anyone know what size ball bearings I need and where I can find some? My steering is indexing pretty badly right now. My mechanic and I want to replace the bearings and rotate the cups 90 degrees so that the steering will be smooth when turning the handlebars.

curbtender

They should be caged unless someone has gone to loose balls. Have you tried a clean and lube?

danarello

Hello curbtender, I have not tried a clean and lube yet. Mechanic said ball bearings are usually caged from factory. He prefers to replace with loose ball bearings. At any rate, we might need the special tool used to extract the cups from the head tube or mechanic might be able to use a hammer and pipe the correct diameter.

VintageSteelEU

If your headset is "indexing", I think the problem might be not the bearing balls / bearings, but the races and the best course of action would be to replace them. If that's not possible, new loose bearing balls might, indeed, help somewhat. As for the size, most likely 5/32". Or 3/16". Your mechanic should have a gauge to measure them, digital calipers are another option.

ehcoplex 

You can pretty easily make your own DIY 'special tool' for extracting the cups. Get some 3/4" copper pipe (Lowe's, HD, local building supply should have 12" lengths, maybe even shorter- unless the bike is really tall you probably only need 8"), dremel 3 length-wise cuts about 1.5" long and bend them to flare out. Pull it up into the head-tube from the non-flared end, tap with a hammer.

Senior Ryder 00 

[QUOTE=ehcoplex;22965294]You can pretty easily make your own DIY 'special tool' for extracting the cups. Get some 3/4" copper pipe (Lowe's, HD, local building supply should have 12" lengths, maybe even shorter- unless the bike is really tall you probably only need 8"), dremel 3 length-wise cuts about 1.5" long and bend them to flare out. Pull it up into the head-tube from the non-flared end, tap with a hammer.


[/QUOTE

Or an old steel seat tube from your local bike co-op or shop.
Cheers,

mrv 

https://wheelsmfg.com/ - can sell you parts - BUT NO RETURNS, so you gotta know what you're getting and get the thing that's right.

I'd just go new headset, which means you need to figure out JIS or ISO, and figure out stack height. If you're not dialed in to what all that means, SheldonBrown (may he rest eternally in peace) can get you educated.
As previously mentioned, your Local Bike Shop may be the easiest way to go, and get educated on everything in the process. (right now my LBS is quite swamped, so that's good for the shop, but makes it bad for me trying to use him as a bike-co-op - in exchange for beer and tool rental fees.....)

ciao!

Unca_Sam

I wanted to echo that you should look into replacing the headset, rather than looking into rotating the races. I would only bother with rotating the cups if the headset was something special or rare, or if I'm seriously strapped for cash. Tange makes very affordable headsets for whatever size your headset is. Given this is a Schwinn, the biggest measurement will be what size the fork crown is: 26.4 is ISO and 27.0 is JIS.

rccardr 

That headset has already been replaced once, it’s not original.
A $20 Tange with a 27.0 crown race will solve your problems without creating new ones.

danarello

Thank you Unca Sam and Doc for making my repair a lot easier! I went to Sheldon Brown's website under "Headset Anatomy" then scrolled down to "Indexed steering" "Brinelling." Learning something new everyday!

danarello

Hi Doc, A quick search revealed: Tange-Seiki Levin CDS 1" Threaded Headset: 27.0mm Crown Race Chrome on the 365 Cycles Online Store for $20.98. It comes with 5/32 inch ball bearings. Do you think this is compatible?

JohnDThompson 

Most likely 5/32", but possibly 3/16". The only way to be sure is to open it up and look. Both sizes are common, inexpensive, and readily available.

If, when you open it up, you find that the balls are held in a retainer, you can usually replace them with loose balls and add one more than was in the retainer. This will prevent the balls from falling back into the frets created by retained balls. Often, this is enough without having to remove, rotate and reinstall the lower cup or crown race.

A couple caveats, though: some high-end Campagnolo and Shimano headsets use retainers with a full complement of balls; in that case, you won't be able to insert an additional ball and will need to rotate the lower cup or crown race. You don't need to do both; whichever one is easiest to remove will suffice. You just want to make it so the frets don't line up anymore. And you shouldn't need to do it to the upper race or cup, as these seldom get fretting damage, since they are not load bearing and only serve to maintain alignment.

JohnDThompson 

An old 1" steel seatpost works well, and has a less sloppy fit than a 3/4" pipe.

jdawginsc 

Absolutely believe that to be compatible. The bearings are mated to Headset races.

You may wish to double check the fork crown diameter, in case someone milled it down to fit a 26.4 crown race. Also you can check the head tube inside diameter but I near guarantee the cups will fit.

The stack height is on the low side 33.3, so you might need some spacers in there (save them from the current headset). Better than too much stack.