Is this Rim Safe?
#1
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Is this Rim Safe?
Hi all,
I have gotten several flats with this wheel and so decided to investigate the rim more closely thinking maybe there is a sharp edge inside somewhere. I took the tire/tube off and noticed the rim tape was not on straight and so not fully covering the spoke holes and thought this was the issue. I removed the old rim tape and planned to replace it but discovered this sharp protruding edge at the point where the two ends of the rim join together. Can I just file this sharp edge down flush with the inner rim surface or is this rim not safe and not salvageable? The outside rim braking surfaces are smooth with no gaps or cracks.
I have gotten several flats with this wheel and so decided to investigate the rim more closely thinking maybe there is a sharp edge inside somewhere. I took the tire/tube off and noticed the rim tape was not on straight and so not fully covering the spoke holes and thought this was the issue. I removed the old rim tape and planned to replace it but discovered this sharp protruding edge at the point where the two ends of the rim join together. Can I just file this sharp edge down flush with the inner rim surface or is this rim not safe and not salvageable? The outside rim braking surfaces are smooth with no gaps or cracks.
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The seam looks pretty typical and if the rim strip covers it I would have no concerns.
IIRC this rim does have rim bead hooks. What it doesn't have are the bead seating shelf and dropped center well that are more common these days. Andy
IIRC this rim does have rim bead hooks. What it doesn't have are the bead seating shelf and dropped center well that are more common these days. Andy
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If you have anything sticking up and cutting the tape, by all means file it down. Just don't get aggressive and file beyond the inside channel (or extension of the channel at the gaps at the joint). Don't remove material to pretty up those gaps. They are fine. The rim is under close to pure compression there and the gaps don't hurt anything as long as they have rim tape stretched over them.
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Yes, you can certainly file the joint smoother if it helps you sleep at night
However, it won't make a difference unless the punctures are located there. Obviously, a burr opposite the valve can't cause a puncture elsewhere.
However, it won't make a difference unless the punctures are located there. Obviously, a burr opposite the valve can't cause a puncture elsewhere.
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#8
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It is hard to show what it feels like in the picture but it actually sticks up quite a but from the surface and has a sharp edge to it. Thanks to all who have replied here. I will carefully file it smooth to at least remove the sharp edge. Something had caused all the flat tires I got with this wheel. It was either this or the fact that the original rim tape did not cover all spoke holes.After smoothing it out I will apply new rim tape.
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Kinda kooks to me like the seam has cracked in the rim channel.
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i might take a minute to de-burr it, but filing it smooth isn't needed.. it's a high spot in the weld job... smooth it a bit and ride it.
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You may have luck with some emory cloth (like sandpaper for metal) and sand it, or dremel carefully.
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Either mount the tire with a reference lined up at the valve, or use a pen to make a reference there.
Then if you get a cut on the tread side, note and mark the tire there. For a cut on the rim side mark the rim.
This way you'll know if something is causing repeat flats, or they're random, unrelated events.
Note, rim side flats within an inch on either side of the valve usually have a unique cause specific to that location.
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It is hard to show what it feels like in the picture but it actually sticks up quite a but from the surface and has a sharp edge to it. Thanks to all who have replied here. I will carefully file it smooth to at least remove the sharp edge. Something had caused all the flat tires I got with this wheel. It was either this or the fact that the original rim tape did not cover all spoke holes.After smoothing it out I will apply new rim tape.
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Wheel usable?
Hi all,
I have gotten several flats with this wheel and so decided to investigate the rim more closely thinking maybe there is a sharp edge inside somewhere. I took the tire/tube off and noticed the rim tape was not on straight and so not fully covering the spoke holes and thought this was the issue. I removed the old rim tape and planned to replace it but discovered this sharp protruding edge at the point where the two ends of the rim join together. Can I just file this sharp edge down flush with the inner rim surface or is this rim not safe and not salvageable? The outside rim braking surfaces are smooth with no gaps or cracks.
I have gotten several flats with this wheel and so decided to investigate the rim more closely thinking maybe there is a sharp edge inside somewhere. I took the tire/tube off and noticed the rim tape was not on straight and so not fully covering the spoke holes and thought this was the issue. I removed the old rim tape and planned to replace it but discovered this sharp protruding edge at the point where the two ends of the rim join together. Can I just file this sharp edge down flush with the inner rim surface or is this rim not safe and not salvageable? The outside rim braking surfaces are smooth with no gaps or cracks.
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It is hard to show what it feels like in the picture but it actually sticks up quite a but from the surface and has a sharp edge to it. Thanks to all who have replied here. I will carefully file it smooth to at least remove the sharp edge. Something had caused all the flat tires I got with this wheel. It was either this or the fact that the original rim tape did not cover all spoke holes.After smoothing it out I will apply new rim tape.
Nope, just not the best/prettiest weld job.
That's not a split, that's the seam where the two ends of the metal are joined. I'm going to guess from the look that the rim is initially pinned and than a quick weld on the inside to keep it from moving as extra insurance. That seam s readily available on lots of different rims and especially older rims since most were only pinned together and held just fine.
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#16
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I filed the rough edge down last night. No issues with that at all. Before doing anything else I decided to put the wheel in the truing stand. I got the side to side pretty true but the radial trueness is not great and there is a slight hop at the seam joint. I will try and see if I can improve it some more. I rode this wheel before and did not notice any hop but it definately does not run as true as any of the other wheels that I own.
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Lots of pinned rims don't always spin out perfectly round near the seam, in most of the instances I can recall the seam stuck out more to be more like a hop and between a 1/4 and full turn tighter of the two spokes that flank it have been needed to bring it closer into round there. Pinned rims can also be slightly out of alignment there are well, this is one of the reasons rims went to milled sidewalls, braking is significantly improved but the seam is also milled smooth and flat in the process. My limited experience with Wolber is that they were decent but softer which made them more prone to moving with small tweaks and easy to over adjust so a little more care needed, but still a decent wheel when built, just finding the difference between new materials, construction and shapes vs. older designs.
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It isn't terrible, but IMO it's done. It's a 50 year old antique wall art now. Ride a newer bike.
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There's nothing wrong with that rim.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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The seam looks typical. But anything sharp should be smoothed.
HOWEVER, that spoke hole on the right? MAJOR burr sticking up! I'd want to be sure to address that as well as all the other spoke holes. Emery cloth will work, but a Dremel will make much quicker and cleaner work of it. I'd use one of their steel cutting bits with really fine teeth. It will throw really tiny aluminum shards, so be sure to maybe use a vacuum to catch 'em all and be sure the rim is clear of them all. Careful they can stick in your skin too!
Big cause of repeated flats is sharp spoke hole edges and cheapo rim strips. Under high road tire pressure, cheapo rim strip (rubber, for example) gets pushed into the spoke hole, exposing the edges, flatting your tube. Replace rim strips quality alternatives like Velox.
HOWEVER, that spoke hole on the right? MAJOR burr sticking up! I'd want to be sure to address that as well as all the other spoke holes. Emery cloth will work, but a Dremel will make much quicker and cleaner work of it. I'd use one of their steel cutting bits with really fine teeth. It will throw really tiny aluminum shards, so be sure to maybe use a vacuum to catch 'em all and be sure the rim is clear of them all. Careful they can stick in your skin too!
Big cause of repeated flats is sharp spoke hole edges and cheapo rim strips. Under high road tire pressure, cheapo rim strip (rubber, for example) gets pushed into the spoke hole, exposing the edges, flatting your tube. Replace rim strips quality alternatives like Velox.
#23
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Thanks to all for these interesting ,and helpful comments. Yes, for sure I also noticed the spoke holes have the sharp edges. They will get covered by rim tape but will take care of the burr first. I may end up using this wheel on the trainer only even though I think it will be OK. Will see.