Ways to improve friction shifters?
#1
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Ways to improve friction shifters?
My 79 Raleigh Competition, which I ride regularly, has clamp-on friction shifters (Campy Nuovo Gran Sport). They don't like to stay tight and when they loosen up, trouble can follow. I avoid standing up to put more force on the pedals because I'm never totally confident the derailleur won't slip. Every now and then I reach down and tweak the friction adjustment (tighten the knurled outer wheel on the the shifter)
I thought maybe some vintage enthusiast here might have a trick or two to make these shifters hold their adjustment better. Maybe - add a thin disc of some grippier material? Or do something to 'lock' the adjustment wheel in position?
I thought maybe some vintage enthusiast here might have a trick or two to make these shifters hold their adjustment better. Maybe - add a thin disc of some grippier material? Or do something to 'lock' the adjustment wheel in position?
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#2
Newbie
They are famous for slipping. Maybe try a bit of medium strength locktite on the threads and make sure the washers are free from grease or oil. If that doesnt work try switching out to Simplex Retrofriction or Suntour Power Shifters.
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#3
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Is it just the right/rear you're having trouble with?
I had a couple sets of these and they worked fine. But they were in good shape. I don't know what yours are like. I always fully overhaul these. Upon assembly, I lightly grease everything (except the threads!), then lightly wipe away any residual grease from the washer(s).
If you're trying to reach a 28t cog with a Record or NR rear mech, it might not just be the shifters causing the issue. Maybe add a little bit more detail with what you're working with.
I had a couple sets of these and they worked fine. But they were in good shape. I don't know what yours are like. I always fully overhaul these. Upon assembly, I lightly grease everything (except the threads!), then lightly wipe away any residual grease from the washer(s).
If you're trying to reach a 28t cog with a Record or NR rear mech, it might not just be the shifters causing the issue. Maybe add a little bit more detail with what you're working with.
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I would find an exploded parts diagram and (carefully!) disassemble them one side at a time. Lay the parts out in order from post to nut. Compare your parts (order and orientation) with the diagram. It's not unusual for a washer to be placed in the wrong spot in the stack or to be flipped (if not symmetrical).
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My 79 Raleigh Competition, which I ride regularly, has clamp-on friction shifters (Campy Nuovo Gran Sport). They don't like to stay tight and when they loosen up, trouble can follow. I avoid standing up to put more force on the pedals because I'm never totally confident the derailleur won't slip. Every now and then I reach down and tweak the friction adjustment (tighten the knurled outer wheel on the the shifter)
I thought maybe some vintage enthusiast here might have a trick or two to make these shifters hold their adjustment better. Maybe - add a thin disc of some grippier material? Or do something to 'lock' the adjustment wheel in position?
I thought maybe some vintage enthusiast here might have a trick or two to make these shifters hold their adjustment better. Maybe - add a thin disc of some grippier material? Or do something to 'lock' the adjustment wheel in position?
#6
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Thread Starter
these guys at Velo Orange are currently in production by Dia Compe, and you only need the cheaper ones, not the 11s version with more pull. 55 bucks plus shipping.
UPDATE: I see they're available with their own clamp mount.
Thanks for the tip. This is probably the right solution.
Last edited by jimh12345; 09-06-21 at 07:06 PM.
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The Gran Sport shifter is significantly different from the Record shifter. The Dia-Compe levers will not fit on the Gran Sport clamp.
#9
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Clean the threads really well with WD-40 and let them dry. Reassemble, mount and test. If you're experiencing the same issue, use a small amount of blue Loctite on the threaded portion only.
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I had the same problem with some old Suntour friction shifters. They were severely worn so it was not a design or install problem. In frustration I just took them apart and reassembled them using Elmers School Glue. Wow... They held up for a year and a half before I had to do it again...
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#11
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Not everything Campagnolo is glorious. This is one of those products. You should be able to find all sorts of stuff used or new to replace them with and you will be amazed as to why you didn't do it sooner.
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My 79 Raleigh Competition, which I ride regularly, has clamp-on friction shifters (Campy Nuovo Gran Sport). They don't like to stay tight and when they loosen up, trouble can follow. I avoid standing up to put more force on the pedals because I'm never totally confident the derailleur won't slip. Every now and then I reach down and tweak the friction adjustment (tighten the knurled outer wheel on the the shifter)
I thought maybe some vintage enthusiast here might have a trick or two to make these shifters hold their adjustment better. Maybe - add a thin disc of some grippier material? Or do something to 'lock' the adjustment wheel in position?
I thought maybe some vintage enthusiast here might have a trick or two to make these shifters hold their adjustment better. Maybe - add a thin disc of some grippier material? Or do something to 'lock' the adjustment wheel in position?
Shifter adjusting screws become loose if they are not completely prevented from rotating as the shifter lever is moved. Must shifters use some sort of a key between the lever and the adjusting screw - either flats on the monting boss or a tabbed washer on the outer surface of the shifter, which fits in a slot on another plate keyed to the mounting boss. There are variations, the Simplex pattern (tab in a U-shaped slot) is the best because you can squeeze the slot tight and thus hold the washer completely immobile.
These shifters are different. They have a mounting screw and an adjusting nut, They use a tabbed washer, which fits into a slot on a plate which is pressed on to the screw, sandwiching the mounting band.
I found that the screws had become loose in the band, and would rotate a few degrees back-and-forth as the lever was moved. I silver-soldered the inner edges of the screws to the band and all was well.
However, if your screws are tight then it may be that the tab that fits in the slot has sufficient clearance to also allow such movement. If so I would peen the tab a little to widen it, that'd be easier than trying to make the slot shorter.
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#13
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I have the same problem when standing in the pedals going up steep hills. I read a BF thread a while back where somebody said that you can eliminate the ghost shifting using copper washers. I just looked for the thread but can't find it.
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Consider changing out your shifters to Retrifrictions, from Simplex.
As long as the clutch springs and the internal friction barrels are in good condition, you should not have any problem with them staying in gear. Nice thing is, you never have to adjust any pivot nuts or D rings to maintain good friction/resistance to derailleur springs, after you install them on your bike.
Be aware though that Retrofrictions will be hitting its max, in terms of shift cable wrap/lever throw at 7 speeds, because of their smallish cable barrel diameter.
As long as the clutch springs and the internal friction barrels are in good condition, you should not have any problem with them staying in gear. Nice thing is, you never have to adjust any pivot nuts or D rings to maintain good friction/resistance to derailleur springs, after you install them on your bike.
Be aware though that Retrofrictions will be hitting its max, in terms of shift cable wrap/lever throw at 7 speeds, because of their smallish cable barrel diameter.
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#15
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Thread Starter
These - and their cousins the Valentinos - are my favourite shifters from Campagnolo, because they have such a nice large adjuster. I did had a pair that constantly loosened, and I fixed them (see below).
Shifter adjusting screws become loose if they are not completely prevented from rotating as the shifter lever is moved. Must shifters use some sort of a key between the lever and the adjusting screw - either flats on the monting boss or a tabbed washer on the outer surface of the shifter, which fits in a slot on another plate keyed to the mounting boss. There are variations, the Simplex pattern (tab in a U-shaped slot) is the best because you can squeeze the slot tight and thus hold the washer completely immobile.
These shifters are different. They have a mounting screw and an adjusting nut, They use a tabbed washer, which fits into a slot on a plate which is pressed on to the screw, sandwiching the mounting band.
I found that the screws had become loose in the band, and would rotate a few degrees back-and-forth as the lever was moved. I silver-soldered the inner edges of the screws to the band and all was well.
However, if your screws are tight then it may be that the tab that fits in the slot has sufficient clearance to also allow such movement. If so I would peen the tab a little to widen it, that'd be easier than trying to make the slot shorter.
Shifter adjusting screws become loose if they are not completely prevented from rotating as the shifter lever is moved. Must shifters use some sort of a key between the lever and the adjusting screw - either flats on the monting boss or a tabbed washer on the outer surface of the shifter, which fits in a slot on another plate keyed to the mounting boss. There are variations, the Simplex pattern (tab in a U-shaped slot) is the best because you can squeeze the slot tight and thus hold the washer completely immobile.
These shifters are different. They have a mounting screw and an adjusting nut, They use a tabbed washer, which fits into a slot on a plate which is pressed on to the screw, sandwiching the mounting band.
I found that the screws had become loose in the band, and would rotate a few degrees back-and-forth as the lever was moved. I silver-soldered the inner edges of the screws to the band and all was well.
However, if your screws are tight then it may be that the tab that fits in the slot has sufficient clearance to also allow such movement. If so I would peen the tab a little to widen it, that'd be easier than trying to make the slot shorter.
So, silver-soldering could remove that play, but I have no experience with anything but electronic soldering.
My rear Nuovo Gran Sport derailleur recently failed due to crack in the housing. I found a replacement on Ebay. But it's not NOS, and clearly these components are aging out. Oh, and I turn 70 today, and am not anxious to cut short my cycling career with some goofy fall caused by equipment failure. So maybe it's time to buy some nice new friction shifters, and maybe even think about a newer derailleur. I'll preserve the retro look of the bike but feel confident and even a bit smug riding it around town.
Thanks to all for replies - I read every one and learned a few things.
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#16
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Retrofrictions are great, but if you are on a budget the Suntour Power Shifters are very nice and infinitely more plentiful.