Play In Rear Hub
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Play In Rear Hub
This is an eight speed Deore hub.
I removed the cassette to adjust the cones.
This is the problem.
I can discern no play in the non drive side.
Yet the drive side has significant play.
The freehub also has some play.
I removed the cassette to adjust the cones.
This is the problem.
I can discern no play in the non drive side.
Yet the drive side has significant play.
The freehub also has some play.
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As blamester mentioned, you have to take it apart in order to know what's going on. Wiggling things around won't give you, or us, any insight as to why it's loose. You may have a damaged bearing ball, pitted hub races and cones, needs a cleaning and lube, etc., etc.
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I guess the first question is did you try to put pressure on the end of the DS axle, or pull toward the NDS, to see if the play does move from DS to NDS. I've adjusted cones and find that sometimes I can feel play on one side, but if I try to put pressure the other way I can feel the play on the other side. The only word in your post that is concerning is the word significant.
I'm no freehub body assemble expert, but basically you have a inner core, with pawls, and an outer shell. A simplistic view the inner core gets attached to the hub, and the hub bearing cup is threaded tightly onto the inner core. The outer shell just rotates and any freehub body shell play doesn't impact the play in the hub bearings.
You can see in the image from Park Tool, the bearing cone threads onto the inner race/pawls core and is tightened against the adjustment washers:
If the freehub body is not firmly attached to the rear hub, there can be play. Or if the bearing race is not tight and it moves there can be play.
John
I'm no freehub body assemble expert, but basically you have a inner core, with pawls, and an outer shell. A simplistic view the inner core gets attached to the hub, and the hub bearing cup is threaded tightly onto the inner core. The outer shell just rotates and any freehub body shell play doesn't impact the play in the hub bearings.
You can see in the image from Park Tool, the bearing cone threads onto the inner race/pawls core and is tightened against the adjustment washers:
If the freehub body is not firmly attached to the rear hub, there can be play. Or if the bearing race is not tight and it moves there can be play.
John
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If that freehub bolt was loose, you may still have problems. That shouldn't have happened, and it may be damaged. Keep a close eye on it. If it reoccurs and a new freehub and bolt doesn't fix it, the threads in the hub are damaged and you'll need a new hub or wheel.
The last time I needed to replace that style freehub, I bought a NOS hub pretty cheap on eBay and stripped it. If there's a bike co-op near you, you'll probably find salvaged parts there.
The last time I needed to replace that style freehub, I bought a NOS hub pretty cheap on eBay and stripped it. If there's a bike co-op near you, you'll probably find salvaged parts there.
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If that freehub bolt was loose, you may still have problems. That shouldn't have happened, and it may be damaged. Keep a close eye on it. If it reoccurs and a new freehub and bolt doesn't fix it, the threads in the hub are damaged and you'll need a new hub or wheel.
The last time I needed to replace that style freehub, I bought a NOS hub pretty cheap on eBay and stripped it. If there's a bike co-op near you, you'll probably find salvaged parts there.
The last time I needed to replace that style freehub, I bought a NOS hub pretty cheap on eBay and stripped it. If there's a bike co-op near you, you'll probably find salvaged parts there.