Considering a Trek Portland, but concerned...
#26
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I'm nothing but delighted with my '06 Trek Portland.
We recently celebrated our second anniversary (it hung around my LBS for two years waiting for me to buy it) and I still stand by my initial impressions from my test ride and after owning it for a couple of weeks.
As for weight, mine is a 56cm and was 23½ pounds box-stock. Kitted-out the way I have it now, it's 27½ pounds.
I had full fenders installed at the LBS and I installed the rack myself. For its anniversary, I ordered it a dynamo hub and Schmidt Edelux headlight and B&M taillight.
In my experience, the wheels are the weak link on this bike. The low spoke count, 2X paired-spoke lacing isn't up to the daily cut and thrust of urban commuting. The other issue I had was with the rear brake caliper. Avid replaced it under warranty.
That said, I'm not sure I'd buy the 2009 or 2010. My 2006 was handbuilt in Wisconsin, and has 105 with a splash of Ultegra, and Avid BB7 brakes. The newer ones are built overseas, and have downgraded components--Tiagra and some Shimano brake.
It's a real shame since the frameset is just so wonderful. Hanging crap components on that frameset is a major travesty.
But, if mine was crashed or stolen, I'd replace it in a heartbeat. I'd also replace the downgraded components.
We recently celebrated our second anniversary (it hung around my LBS for two years waiting for me to buy it) and I still stand by my initial impressions from my test ride and after owning it for a couple of weeks.
As for weight, mine is a 56cm and was 23½ pounds box-stock. Kitted-out the way I have it now, it's 27½ pounds.
I had full fenders installed at the LBS and I installed the rack myself. For its anniversary, I ordered it a dynamo hub and Schmidt Edelux headlight and B&M taillight.
In my experience, the wheels are the weak link on this bike. The low spoke count, 2X paired-spoke lacing isn't up to the daily cut and thrust of urban commuting. The other issue I had was with the rear brake caliper. Avid replaced it under warranty.
That said, I'm not sure I'd buy the 2009 or 2010. My 2006 was handbuilt in Wisconsin, and has 105 with a splash of Ultegra, and Avid BB7 brakes. The newer ones are built overseas, and have downgraded components--Tiagra and some Shimano brake.
It's a real shame since the frameset is just so wonderful. Hanging crap components on that frameset is a major travesty.
But, if mine was crashed or stolen, I'd replace it in a heartbeat. I'd also replace the downgraded components.
This must be the completely different views I was reading about. I did not check to see which year those making comments had.
I will be looking over the suggestions made by everyone. I really appreciate the help.
Last night I was seriously considering a Tricross comp, just because I like my bike now, just wish it had more than one speed..
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I would get a wheel built with a IGH like a Nexus 8 red band, a J-Tek bar end shifter and use your SingleCross frame. The SingleCross's horizontal drop outs would work fabulously with it because you don't need a chain tensioner. You could even alternaete between your SingleCross wheel and the IGH wheel if the rear cogs are approx. the same tooth count. All you need to do is zip tie the IGH shift cable to the chain stay and away you go.
Last edited by Tequila Joe; 10-19-09 at 06:14 PM.
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I tend to agree. Year round commuter here in rain/snow/cold and never have had disc brakes or felt any need for them.
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So since YOU don't need them that makes them less practical for someone else? Please! You even admit to not using them, so how were you able to detemine that they were overated?
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Again, I commute in all kinds of weather on very steep terrain and get along fine without them. How about if I say they are over rated for commuting. That better?
I stop fine with what I got, how are discs gonna help? On the other hand, if I found a nice buy on a bike with discs, maybe I'd get it.
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Last edited by daredevil; 10-19-09 at 06:50 PM.
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#34
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OK, let's try this. Disc brakes are incredible. Nothing stops like disc brakes man. I don't need em.
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Happy Portland owner checking in, have an '08 which came with the 105 components. Haven't had any component failures whatsoever so far, and the wheels were great with regular grocery loads until I ran head on in to a curb and actually bent the wheel.
I got mine powder coated blue recently.
I got mine powder coated blue recently.
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I don't know if you're aware of it, but Bontrager's paired-spoke road wheels have such a track record of rim cracking (with or without discs) that it's the first thing I look at when they come through the door for anything. If I had a dollar for every pair of cracked Bontragers I've found just this year alone, I'd order pizza right now That's one of the things that turns me off about the present-day Portland. If it had a set of normal 32-spoke wheels with good-quality hubs and spokes, Avid calipers, a respectable crankset and bottom bracket, and at least came with brake studs so you had the option to use non-disc brakes, then I'd feel better about it.
Last edited by mechBgon; 10-19-09 at 09:42 PM.
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Discs necessary? Not really. Any decent quality caliper brake with Kool Stop salmon pads will provide sufficient stopping power.
But if you've ever had a rim let go on you from excessive wear (I have, while descending) you'd think that maybe disc brakes are a pretty good idea if you're going to be doing a lot of wet weather riding. Even more so if you live in a hilly area.
But if you've ever had a rim let go on you from excessive wear (I have, while descending) you'd think that maybe disc brakes are a pretty good idea if you're going to be doing a lot of wet weather riding. Even more so if you live in a hilly area.
Last edited by Kojak; 10-20-09 at 10:57 AM.
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I love my C'Dale XR7 Disk with Mavic Speedcity wheels and sks 45 fenders. I'll be putting on the W106 studs soon, that time of year again.
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I'm leaning toward the above poster's comments/feelings. I'm happy to see someone suggested the ***** Inc. I was looking at it online, and wondering why the salesman didn't mention it?
I would like some cross tires/similar to what I have now. The roads where I'll be riding aren't exactly perfect.
Does anyone have official word on the Jamis and it's new disc brakes at the cost of lower components? That is what I was reading online, and it seems as though their website isn't updated.
I would like some cross tires/similar to what I have now. The roads where I'll be riding aren't exactly perfect.
Does anyone have official word on the Jamis and it's new disc brakes at the cost of lower components? That is what I was reading online, and it seems as though their website isn't updated.
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In my hardcore MTB days I opted for top-notch V-Brakes, which worked great until it got wet and grimy, then they lost at least 30% (if not more) of their power and the grime sounded like sandpaper on the rims. I wore the anodizing off of some brand new rims within a few weeks of hard riding, an the rims showed visible signs of wear after one year (context: 2 hour rides, 3-4 days a week, in the relatively rainy and steep terrain of the appalacian foothills in eastern Tennessee).
If I had it to do over again, discs would've been a no brainer.
Now I live in the relatively arid West, and I feel discs are not necessary for 70% of the time (fair weather). However, the salty, grimy winter roads and occasional rainy days warrant discs (IMO) for about 30% of the weather in my area.
So, My ultimate solution is to have a 'weather bike' (presently planning to get a Swobo Baxter for this duty) and a 'fair-weather bike'.
The Portland appears to be aimed at the 'one bike for all conditions' crowd, and, based on its namesake, I would imagine that wet / gloppy conditions are part of the formula.
Count me in for discs.
If I had it to do over again, discs would've been a no brainer.
Now I live in the relatively arid West, and I feel discs are not necessary for 70% of the time (fair weather). However, the salty, grimy winter roads and occasional rainy days warrant discs (IMO) for about 30% of the weather in my area.
So, My ultimate solution is to have a 'weather bike' (presently planning to get a Swobo Baxter for this duty) and a 'fair-weather bike'.
The Portland appears to be aimed at the 'one bike for all conditions' crowd, and, based on its namesake, I would imagine that wet / gloppy conditions are part of the formula.
Count me in for discs.
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Not to drag the thread even further off-topic but I still run high quality linear-pull brakes and levers (i.e. V-brakes) on my "old school" (rigid steel) mountain bike and they perform flawlessly. I've tried a lot of bikes with disks and they do work incredibly well (especially the high quality hydraulic ones). But I'm not really sold on the fact that disk brakes are inherently "superior" to good rim brakes. Just my $0.02.
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I'm a big fan of the Kona Jake. I just posted mine in the "If money were no object" thread.
Disc brakes are definitely nice to have around here in the winter. Here's a suggestion: get a Kona Jake (or Jake the Snake if you feel you must) and have the fork replaced with something disc specific and put an Avid BB7 Road disc brake on it. Rear disc brakes are overkill. Even a weak rim brake is usually powerful enough to skid the rear wheel, at which point it's no longer providing stopping power. The front brake is what really stops you.
If you went the above route with the base level Jake (Sellwood Cycle Repair has 2009's in stock for $800), Kona Project 2 touring disc fork ($80) and Avid BB7's ($70) you'd have about $700 left over for wheels and other upgrades (relative to the Trek Portland).
Plus, unlike the Trek Portland, you could use the Jake for CX racing.
Disc brakes are definitely nice to have around here in the winter. Here's a suggestion: get a Kona Jake (or Jake the Snake if you feel you must) and have the fork replaced with something disc specific and put an Avid BB7 Road disc brake on it. Rear disc brakes are overkill. Even a weak rim brake is usually powerful enough to skid the rear wheel, at which point it's no longer providing stopping power. The front brake is what really stops you.
If you went the above route with the base level Jake (Sellwood Cycle Repair has 2009's in stock for $800), Kona Project 2 touring disc fork ($80) and Avid BB7's ($70) you'd have about $700 left over for wheels and other upgrades (relative to the Trek Portland).
Plus, unlike the Trek Portland, you could use the Jake for CX racing.
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Aurora Elite looks great... 631 frame, cr-mo fork, XT rear/Tiagra front der, Tiagra shifters, Avid BB7 road discs. Mavic A119/formula hubs, Vittoria Randonneur tires. Comes with a rear rack and full fenders.
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So lets see... Your name is Daredevil, right?
I ride in rain, mud, and snow and happen to be glad for the Avid BB7's on my CX commuter. I rarely feel the need for them, but I'm glad they are there. It only takes one scary moment on a rim-brake equipped bike to make a believer out of you.
Last edited by dwr1961; 10-20-09 at 01:25 PM.
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I'm a big fan of the Kona Jake. I just posted mine in the "If money were no object" thread.
Disc brakes are definitely nice to have around here in the winter. Here's a suggestion: get a Kona Jake (or Jake the Snake if you feel you must) and have the fork replaced with something disc specific and put an Avid BB7 Road disc brake on it. Rear disc brakes are overkill. Even a weak rim brake is usually powerful enough to skid the rear wheel, at which point it's no longer providing stopping power. The front brake is what really stops you.
If you went the above route with the base level Jake (Sellwood Cycle Repair has 2009's in stock for $800), Kona Project 2 touring disc fork ($80) and Avid BB7's ($70) you'd have about $700 left over for wheels and other upgrades (relative to the Trek Portland).
Plus, unlike the Trek Portland, you could use the Jake for CX racing.
Disc brakes are definitely nice to have around here in the winter. Here's a suggestion: get a Kona Jake (or Jake the Snake if you feel you must) and have the fork replaced with something disc specific and put an Avid BB7 Road disc brake on it. Rear disc brakes are overkill. Even a weak rim brake is usually powerful enough to skid the rear wheel, at which point it's no longer providing stopping power. The front brake is what really stops you.
If you went the above route with the base level Jake (Sellwood Cycle Repair has 2009's in stock for $800), Kona Project 2 touring disc fork ($80) and Avid BB7's ($70) you'd have about $700 left over for wheels and other upgrades (relative to the Trek Portland).
Plus, unlike the Trek Portland, you could use the Jake for CX racing.
This could also be a great way to go. AL frame, but that's not the worst thing in the world.
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I actually consider the aluminum frame to be an advantage.
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Here's one. I owned a 2008 model. Hated it. Rode like crap. Even with the 28's. But so has every aluminum Trek that I've owned.
OP, don't let brakes be your decider. I like in Portland also and use a Tricross with canti brakes. Works fine in wet weather. In fact, it's my wet weather bike. I just changed the pads out for Kool Stop Salmon pads. Works fine in the rain.
OP, don't let brakes be your decider. I like in Portland also and use a Tricross with canti brakes. Works fine in wet weather. In fact, it's my wet weather bike. I just changed the pads out for Kool Stop Salmon pads. Works fine in the rain.
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1. It seems for the price the components aren't up to snuff. I guess this is a trade off for the disc brakes?
Trek changed components in 2008. Many feel the 2007 Portland was the best example (10-speed cassette and BB7 brakes):
https://www.trekbikes.com/au/en/bikes...chive/portland
2. Price. I'm not opposed to spending this amount of money for a solid commuter. I guess this kind of coincides with 1.
The Raleigh Sojourn is a decent deal at $1000. BB5 brakes and bar end shifters for that price point, but you get a Brooks B17 saddle and WTB mountain drop bars with Brooks leather wrap. Here's a review:
https://www.dartanyonrace.com/2009/04/s-is-for-bicycle/
3. Potential for theft. I won't be leaving this out overnight, or really anywhere in the open for long periods of time. I have a locker at work, and the rest is shopping or going to work out.
Well, times are hard and even the Kids plastic trikes are being stolen. We use 2 U-locks now on all our bikes.
At the Trek store the guy suggested I take a ride on a Jake the Snake. They didn't have my size in stock, but could have one sent. I declined for the moment.
Any other bikes I should consider?
Plenty of disc brake bikes, in road, cyclocross, 29'er, etc. Salsa La Cruz should be on your short list.
I read completely polarizing views on almost everything on the bike. It's light for what it does. It's a heavy bike. The brakes are top notch. I've had serious adjusting issues with the brakes. Etc. Help?
Heavy compared to what and what's the main purpose of the bike? As far as brakes, the majority will stay with some form of rim brakes and they still do the job, but I doubt many ever experienced having to pull wet leaves and gunk 'at speed' out of rim brakes so they could stop. Disc brake pad adjustment is done with a knob(s) you turn with your hand. My neighbor has a Schwinn World DBX (discontinued) because he was tired of replacing worn rims (lives in the hills) and loves his BB7 disc brakes.
#50
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I think I'm down to these:
Salsa La Cruz
Kona ***** Inc.
Potentially the Jamis Aurora Elite
and this:
You've all given me lots to think about and many options. Thanks for helping me out.
Salsa La Cruz
Kona ***** Inc.
Potentially the Jamis Aurora Elite
and this:
I'm a big fan of the Kona Jake. I just posted mine in the "If money were no object" thread.
Disc brakes are definitely nice to have around here in the winter. Here's a suggestion: get a Kona Jake (or Jake the Snake if you feel you must) and have the fork replaced with something disc specific and put an Avid BB7 Road disc brake on it. Rear disc brakes are overkill. Even a weak rim brake is usually powerful enough to skid the rear wheel, at which point it's no longer providing stopping power. The front brake is what really stops you.
If you went the above route with the base level Jake (Sellwood Cycle Repair has 2009's in stock for $800), Kona Project 2 touring disc fork ($80) and Avid BB7's ($70) you'd have about $700 left over for wheels and other upgrades (relative to the Trek Portland).
Plus, unlike the Trek Portland, you could use the Jake for CX racing.
Disc brakes are definitely nice to have around here in the winter. Here's a suggestion: get a Kona Jake (or Jake the Snake if you feel you must) and have the fork replaced with something disc specific and put an Avid BB7 Road disc brake on it. Rear disc brakes are overkill. Even a weak rim brake is usually powerful enough to skid the rear wheel, at which point it's no longer providing stopping power. The front brake is what really stops you.
If you went the above route with the base level Jake (Sellwood Cycle Repair has 2009's in stock for $800), Kona Project 2 touring disc fork ($80) and Avid BB7's ($70) you'd have about $700 left over for wheels and other upgrades (relative to the Trek Portland).
Plus, unlike the Trek Portland, you could use the Jake for CX racing.
You've all given me lots to think about and many options. Thanks for helping me out.