Tips on re-spoking a wheel?
#1
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Tips on re-spoking a wheel?
I have an older Bianchi, spokes showing some rust, broke one a few months ago. Had bike shop replace it.
Thought about buying new wheels, but it has 7 sprockets on the rear, so bike shop told me two new wheels could be $400 to $500. Don't want to put that much into it.
I have a friend who's good at any mechanical job. Thinking we might buy new spokes, and try changing them all out.
Our idea, remove one spoke, put in a new one. Go to opposite side of wheel, and repeat process. Seems this would be a way of having a better chance of keeping correct tension on spokes.
Would this be the simplest way to do the job, for someone with little experience?
Thought about buying new wheels, but it has 7 sprockets on the rear, so bike shop told me two new wheels could be $400 to $500. Don't want to put that much into it.
I have a friend who's good at any mechanical job. Thinking we might buy new spokes, and try changing them all out.
Our idea, remove one spoke, put in a new one. Go to opposite side of wheel, and repeat process. Seems this would be a way of having a better chance of keeping correct tension on spokes.
Would this be the simplest way to do the job, for someone with little experience?
#2
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Sound like more bother than just doing a new build.
Use the instructions in "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt,
or use Sheldon's:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
Use the instructions in "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt,
or use Sheldon's:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
#3
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Hubs that accept freewheels (7-spd and under) are still being manufactured. Your LBS is claiming a ridiculous price! Best approach: Learn to build wheels & look around for ready-made handbuilt wheels that accept what you want for the rear freewheel - or the newer cassettes.
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Given the age of the wheel, you are better off replacing the whole wheel, not just the spokes. Remember, the spokes are only one variable in the equation. How smooth do the hubs feel? Is there uniform tension in the spokes or are they all over the place (listen for their tone by strumming them with your thumb.) If the hubs feel nice, you could build a new set of wheels using the old hubs, new spokes, and a new rim. -FTU
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There are offers of Mavic Open Pro/Shimano Ultegra/DT DB 14-15-14 spoked wheels for well under $300 from places that hand-build them. Which tends to be cheaper than you can buy the components for alone - never mind the labor. I'm a wheelbuilder myself, and I am more than tempted.
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Your shop is on crack. That said, if your hubs are in good shape, and of good quality to begin with, I think a rebuild is appropriate. Of course, you need to check the wear on your rims as well.
#7
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I have an older Bianchi, spokes showing some rust, broke one a few months ago. Had bike shop replace it.
Thought about buying new wheels, but it has 7 sprockets on the rear, so bike shop told me two new wheels could be $400 to $500. Don't want to put that much into it.
I have a friend who's good at any mechanical job. Thinking we might buy new spokes, and try changing them all out.
Our idea, remove one spoke, put in a new one. Go to opposite side of wheel, and repeat process. Seems this would be a way of having a better chance of keeping correct tension on spokes.
Would this be the simplest way to do the job, for someone with little experience?
Thought about buying new wheels, but it has 7 sprockets on the rear, so bike shop told me two new wheels could be $400 to $500. Don't want to put that much into it.
I have a friend who's good at any mechanical job. Thinking we might buy new spokes, and try changing them all out.
Our idea, remove one spoke, put in a new one. Go to opposite side of wheel, and repeat process. Seems this would be a way of having a better chance of keeping correct tension on spokes.
Would this be the simplest way to do the job, for someone with little experience?
Your method doesn't guarantee correct tension anymore than a ground up build. In fact, don't even bother doing what you are planning on doing. First
1) Evaluate the hub - worth rebuilding on? Was it crap quality to begin with?
2) Evaluate the rim - is it worn out? Is it steel?
Then, price out the cost of new spokes (and possibly new rim). New machine built freewheel hubs on decent rims will cost you $70 for a rear and slightly less for the front. Think you can do it for cheaper? If you are still going with just replacing the spokes then detension the whole wheel, cut out spokes and relace and retension.
You will need to learn how to build a wheel.
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I think so too.
It's one thing to replace one-at-a-time the heads-in spokes. Replacing the heads-out spokes is another story. You'll have to bend every one to get it in and then try to straighten it before you lace it to the rim. It can certainly be done, but I don't think that's the way to improve the reliability of your wheel.
It's one thing to replace one-at-a-time the heads-in spokes. Replacing the heads-out spokes is another story. You'll have to bend every one to get it in and then try to straighten it before you lace it to the rim. It can certainly be done, but I don't think that's the way to improve the reliability of your wheel.
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I agree with Operator. I have an early 80'sGianni Motta that I built, and couldn't keep the tires on. It had DA hubs that were in good shape.BUT,,,,the cost to buy new spokes,and Open Pro rims, and re-lace them was about $200.
I got a new set of OP's with 6600 ultegra 10 sp Hubs for $180at their last sale. I also bought a 7sp casette for $20 that shifts with my 7sp shifters.
At the same time, I also got new 10sp D/T shifters and a 10sp casette that I will put on as soon as the mood hits me...A move to the new century....
Bud
I got a new set of OP's with 6600 ultegra 10 sp Hubs for $180at their last sale. I also bought a 7sp casette for $20 that shifts with my 7sp shifters.
At the same time, I also got new 10sp D/T shifters and a 10sp casette that I will put on as soon as the mood hits me...A move to the new century....
Bud
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A new set of OpenPro rim, Ultegra hub, DT double butted spoked wheels is $240 from Bicycle Wheel Warehouse. For $399 you could get them with the excellent jewel-like DuraAce 7800-7850 hubs. They build excellent wheels. I have a set of each. To mount a 7-spd cassette on new wheels you will need a spacer behind the cassette.
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If both the hubs and rims are in good shape, I think re-spoking would be the most economic option, and it isn't too hard. You would need to loosen all the spokes a half turn at a time then cut them (use gloves, they can get pretty sharp)...
It would probably help to keep one from the front wheel intact, and one from each side of the rear wheel, to measure and know what size to get. Then just find a good online guide or any (preferably older Bicycling guide, public library should have one) book to help you with the lacing and truing and tensioning...
Wheelbuilding really isn't so hard, but it does require time and a little bit of patience. The most important thing is to continually stress the wheel while you the final truing. Basically, the spokes tend to wind up a little while you are truing and the wheel is well-tensioned. By pushing the wheel against a table or any hard surface, your hands on the rims, all around the rim - you allow the spokes to resume their normal positions - it's usually audible, you hear "plonk plonk plonk" as the spokes unwind - then you re-true and stress again, and repeat and repeat and repeat until you can't hear anything...
Seb
It would probably help to keep one from the front wheel intact, and one from each side of the rear wheel, to measure and know what size to get. Then just find a good online guide or any (preferably older Bicycling guide, public library should have one) book to help you with the lacing and truing and tensioning...
Wheelbuilding really isn't so hard, but it does require time and a little bit of patience. The most important thing is to continually stress the wheel while you the final truing. Basically, the spokes tend to wind up a little while you are truing and the wheel is well-tensioned. By pushing the wheel against a table or any hard surface, your hands on the rims, all around the rim - you allow the spokes to resume their normal positions - it's usually audible, you hear "plonk plonk plonk" as the spokes unwind - then you re-true and stress again, and repeat and repeat and repeat until you can't hear anything...
Seb