Narrow wide chainring for a 130mm bcd crank
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Narrow wide chainring for a 130mm bcd crank
Hi all,
I'm looking for a narrow wide chainring to put on my roadbike. I currently have a 130mm bcd crankset and can't find any narrow wide chainrings which can fit. Does anyone know if narrow wide chainrings even exist for 130mm bcd? If not, are there any adapters on the market which can convert 130mm to 104mm? Or do i have to get a new crankset?
Thanks in advance
I'm looking for a narrow wide chainring to put on my roadbike. I currently have a 130mm bcd crankset and can't find any narrow wide chainrings which can fit. Does anyone know if narrow wide chainrings even exist for 130mm bcd? If not, are there any adapters on the market which can convert 130mm to 104mm? Or do i have to get a new crankset?
Thanks in advance
#2
Senior Member
Wolf tooth appear to have some:
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...14782015242275
But does it really need to be narrow/wide for at road bike. N/W seem like a feature designed for extreme off road riding.
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...14782015242275
But does it really need to be narrow/wide for at road bike. N/W seem like a feature designed for extreme off road riding.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Yeah i'm not sure if i really need a narrow wide. In any case i want to convert to a 1x system. Do you think a normal chainring will keep the chain on just as well?
#4
Newbie racer
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 3,406
Bikes: Propel, red is faster
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1575 Post(s)
Liked 1,569 Times
in
974 Posts
#5
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
It is good to have at least one chain retention measure, even for a road bike. Clutch RD, chain guide, or NW ring. Any one of those should be sufficient.
Likes For Kapusta:
#6
Quidam Bike Super Hero
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Stone Mountain, GA (Metro Atlanta, East)
Posts: 1,135
Bikes: 1995 Trek 800 Sport, aka, "CamelTrek"
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 331 Post(s)
Liked 415 Times
in
282 Posts
A search fu brought out 130/104 adapters on amazonk. Useful?
#7
Senior Member
I not so sure its obligatory on a road bile. Where I live lots of ordinary commuter bikes are "1x", usually something like a 40t in the front and a 8 or 9s cassette in the back. N/W was never a thing and I never heard anyone complain their chain come off for no reason either. You can get a chain retention device thats similar to a FD, if you wish.
#8
OM boy
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Goleta CA
Posts: 4,369
Bikes: a bunch
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 517 Post(s)
Liked 646 Times
in
438 Posts
wondering... are U looking to do a ghetto setup - double crank convert to single 1x drivetrain ?
chainline will also have an effect on chain retention - either position on the double is offset from center...
and going to a really wide range cassette means issues with chain tension - which does sometimes get exasperated when the chainline isn;t on center...
you'd be recommended to work the ring position to center chainline - which depends on whether you're mounting the ring inner or outer... all in relation to the hub/cassette alignment.
how to center the chainline will depend on the BB config/crank and hub/cassette/speed you're using... and then there's the RD...
have U considered that?
RIde On
Yuri
chainline will also have an effect on chain retention - either position on the double is offset from center...
and going to a really wide range cassette means issues with chain tension - which does sometimes get exasperated when the chainline isn;t on center...
you'd be recommended to work the ring position to center chainline - which depends on whether you're mounting the ring inner or outer... all in relation to the hub/cassette alignment.
how to center the chainline will depend on the BB config/crank and hub/cassette/speed you're using... and then there's the RD...
have U considered that?
RIde On
Yuri
#9
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,538
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4359 Post(s)
Liked 3,998 Times
in
2,668 Posts
Narrow-Wide is not just for extreme hardcore mega riding off road downhill XXXTREMENESS, it is to help chain retention and that is helpful anywhere. Sure you can get away without it, there are folks who have but it is sure nice to have a little extra protection without having to use an additional device. It is not like a narrow wide chainring is going to cause issues and shift ramps and pins aren't needed if you are running 1x so you might find a better more useful selection going to 1x specific stuff which is usually some form of chain retaining single ring.
SRAM, RaceFace (which I am currently using), Wolf Tooth (who make excellent stuff), Absolute Black, Blackspire and probably some others I missed, who make Narrow-Wide rings or similar chain retaining single rings in 130 bcd! Like I said I have been using the Race Face N/W ring on my 1X9 set up and it is fantastic no dropped chains (happened a couple times in the 1x7 guise that bike started in with a non-NW chainring but there could be some other factors) I also happily use a Shimano N/W ring on my mountain bike and I am not an extreme rider at all, overly cautious and not great mountain biker sure.
Off the original topic but riffing on things mentioned above:
Also just as of note riding off road doesn't have to be extreme and extreme isn't always a good description of anything unless it truly is. Everyone needs a chain that doesn't come off and a drivetrain that shifts decently and all that sort of jazz it doesn't require extremity to be needed even if what was mentioned was actually extreme. I do often see in cycling discussions it seems like you can only either be puttering along in the neighborhood on a cruiser bike or doing extreme hardcore downhill or Tour de France road racing and that just simply isn't true. There are plenty of different levels to cycling and different disciplines and I find that generally if you are doing "extreme" stuff or racing you probably aren't going to hang around here, not saying you can't but those who dedicate their life to serious racing are generally not coming to a rinky-dink bike forum to ask should I buy this brake caliper or is my bike good enough or wet or dry lube, they have sponsors and such and they have a whole team and probably don't need us. Now I love this forum as I am sure many of you who are reading this so I mean "rinky-dink" in the most endearing of terms and yes some folks here have raced or done professional mechanic work for teams but in the heat of their career it is unlikely.
SRAM, RaceFace (which I am currently using), Wolf Tooth (who make excellent stuff), Absolute Black, Blackspire and probably some others I missed, who make Narrow-Wide rings or similar chain retaining single rings in 130 bcd! Like I said I have been using the Race Face N/W ring on my 1X9 set up and it is fantastic no dropped chains (happened a couple times in the 1x7 guise that bike started in with a non-NW chainring but there could be some other factors) I also happily use a Shimano N/W ring on my mountain bike and I am not an extreme rider at all, overly cautious and not great mountain biker sure.
Off the original topic but riffing on things mentioned above:
Also just as of note riding off road doesn't have to be extreme and extreme isn't always a good description of anything unless it truly is. Everyone needs a chain that doesn't come off and a drivetrain that shifts decently and all that sort of jazz it doesn't require extremity to be needed even if what was mentioned was actually extreme. I do often see in cycling discussions it seems like you can only either be puttering along in the neighborhood on a cruiser bike or doing extreme hardcore downhill or Tour de France road racing and that just simply isn't true. There are plenty of different levels to cycling and different disciplines and I find that generally if you are doing "extreme" stuff or racing you probably aren't going to hang around here, not saying you can't but those who dedicate their life to serious racing are generally not coming to a rinky-dink bike forum to ask should I buy this brake caliper or is my bike good enough or wet or dry lube, they have sponsors and such and they have a whole team and probably don't need us. Now I love this forum as I am sure many of you who are reading this so I mean "rinky-dink" in the most endearing of terms and yes some folks here have raced or done professional mechanic work for teams but in the heat of their career it is unlikely.
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2021
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for the info guys. I decided to order a cheap normal chainring (46t) just to see if it will work. I think the chainline won't really be an issue. I'm fitting the new ring on a triple ring crankset so i'm hoping the middle option will work (i did this on my mtb as well (with a NW ring though) and never have an issue with chainline there). I think i also have a chainguide lying around somewhere in case i need it.
Where on amazon did you find the 130/104 bcd adapter? Do you have a link? I haven't been able to find any
Where on amazon did you find the 130/104 bcd adapter? Do you have a link? I haven't been able to find any
#11
OwainGyndwr
I not so sure its obligatory on a road bile. Where I live lots of ordinary commuter bikes are "1x", usually something like a 40t in the front and a 8 or 9s cassette in the back. N/W was never a thing and I never heard anyone complain their chain come off for no reason either. You can get a chain retention device thats similar to a FD, if you wish.
Yeah, that's pretty much my stock move when selecting and building a commuter. Both the above bikes have been my utility/commuters starting in 2009. They were both 2x9 and 3x7 respectively. The fd is locked and lowered to prevent 'chain drop'. 'Paul' makes a nice limiter, but why pay 50-75.00 when one can just use the stock frt der to accomplish the task? The upper bike is 48×12-26t 1x9 cassette. The bottom is 44x13-28t 1x7 freewheel. Swapped out the 44t for a 46t Origin8. They both have served their purpose really well. Sold the red bike when moving to New Zealand. It's a Fantom CX from bikesdirect. The Reid is an Aussie brand made in Taiwan.
#12
Senior Member
Litepro makes narrow-wide chainrings in 130BCD in sizes from 45t all the way to 58t. I've got them on both my bikes (one a 46t, the other a 50t), and they work really well (never dropped a chain) and look good.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26529516817...EAAOSwbQBhMCzg
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26529516817...EAAOSwbQBhMCzg
#13
Obsessed with Eddington
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Brussels (BE) 🇧🇪
Posts: 1,330
Bikes: '16 Spesh Diverge, '14 Spesh Fatboy, '18 Spesh Epic, '18 Spesh SL6, '21 Spesh SL7, '21 Spesh Diverge...and maybe n+1?
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 532 Post(s)
Liked 621 Times
in
368 Posts
Agreed! ONLY if you ride on cobblestones do you really need a clutch and a chain guide or N/W ring for a 1x intended for road use. On gravel/CX, use a clutch with one or both chain retention mechanisms for the chainring.