740 mm standover, what will fit me?
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740 mm standover, what will fit me?
I am a 5'3 1/2" 105 lb person. I'm looking for a 4130 single speed that will be agile, fun, light, and low maintenance. I'd like to have paroxysms of ecstasy from my ride to work if possible but I'm not sure if that's within the budget.
I've had my Specialized Hard Rock that is nearly 30% of my body weight and a real clunker, but still in great condition, for 23 years and am ready for the bike of my dreams. I will use it primarily for commuting. I put more miles on my bike than my car. I hardly ever shift and want to keep things simple but fairly high quality. As I am approaching 60 and at some point will start shrinking, I want a bike that will still fit me in 10 years. 20 years would be better. I prefer a more relaxed geometry.
I'm finding that the pickings are very slim for my size.
Here are some of the contenders:
Mercier Kilo TT (but maybe not the pro version, which is pushing the limit at 736 mm standover)
Fuji Feather (745 mm standover for 2021 version, 750 mm for current version, this is really too risky)
Wabi Classic 42 cm (if it's ever in stock again)
State 4130
Priority Ace
Dawes Streetfighter (like the relaxed geometry but will I have to replace many parts?)
Masi Uno (standover is 723 on the smallest so I have room to shrink)
Pure cycles original (local bike shop carries this one)
The only ones the locals can get for me are the Fuji and the Pure Cycles. They are willing to assemble and upgrade if I choose to order from BikesDirect. The only one I have tried is Pure Cycles and I'm pretty sure I can do better for the money. Anything else, I would have to order before trying. The pickings are slim to none on Craiglist and Facebook.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I want this to be my forever bike but I resent that the market doesn't have much recognition for people of my size.
Thanks in advance!
I've had my Specialized Hard Rock that is nearly 30% of my body weight and a real clunker, but still in great condition, for 23 years and am ready for the bike of my dreams. I will use it primarily for commuting. I put more miles on my bike than my car. I hardly ever shift and want to keep things simple but fairly high quality. As I am approaching 60 and at some point will start shrinking, I want a bike that will still fit me in 10 years. 20 years would be better. I prefer a more relaxed geometry.
I'm finding that the pickings are very slim for my size.
Here are some of the contenders:
Mercier Kilo TT (but maybe not the pro version, which is pushing the limit at 736 mm standover)
Fuji Feather (745 mm standover for 2021 version, 750 mm for current version, this is really too risky)
Wabi Classic 42 cm (if it's ever in stock again)
State 4130
Priority Ace
Dawes Streetfighter (like the relaxed geometry but will I have to replace many parts?)
Masi Uno (standover is 723 on the smallest so I have room to shrink)
Pure cycles original (local bike shop carries this one)
The only ones the locals can get for me are the Fuji and the Pure Cycles. They are willing to assemble and upgrade if I choose to order from BikesDirect. The only one I have tried is Pure Cycles and I'm pretty sure I can do better for the money. Anything else, I would have to order before trying. The pickings are slim to none on Craiglist and Facebook.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I want this to be my forever bike but I resent that the market doesn't have much recognition for people of my size.
Thanks in advance!
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The Wabi is probably the nicest on that list (or at least was at one point not sure where they stand now) in terms of chain driven and the Priority Ace of Spades could be a neat option especially if you want low maintenance. Belt drives are low maintenance, less weight generally and super reliable. The CDX is the Gates system I would recommend the CDN is their sort of low end belt stuff and I have a feeling CDX will be much easier to find at a local shop. I don't know what a forever bike is because I have had a couple. However if it truly were a forever bike it would be a custom built bike from the tubes up by a frame builder who knows what they are doing.
My forever fixed gear at the moment is likely going to be from Dave Levy at TiCycles and going to be custom geometry road version of the Yarak with a fairly upright position and some really top end parts it has been a dream I have had for many years now and I finally have come to the point of changing very little on the spec sheet and saying the same thing in my head about it so I think this year I might pull the trigger on it. However my dream would probably retail very high and I could buy 10 Priority Ace of Spades of the price of it. But one should not have dreams that don't reach all the way up the clouds and beyond.
My forever fixed gear at the moment is likely going to be from Dave Levy at TiCycles and going to be custom geometry road version of the Yarak with a fairly upright position and some really top end parts it has been a dream I have had for many years now and I finally have come to the point of changing very little on the spec sheet and saying the same thing in my head about it so I think this year I might pull the trigger on it. However my dream would probably retail very high and I could buy 10 Priority Ace of Spades of the price of it. But one should not have dreams that don't reach all the way up the clouds and beyond.
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On learning that the priority is aluminum, I will not be considering it further.
I did find a 49cm Dawes SST in Jacksonville FL craiglist (I am not permitted to post the URL) but I think the asking price is much too high ($350) considering it's $199 brand new. It has new tires, cables, saddle, brake levers, and bar tape. I know the stock tires are junk but I'd have to replace the bars with risers or straight ones.
It would fit, though.
I did find a 49cm Dawes SST in Jacksonville FL craiglist (I am not permitted to post the URL) but I think the asking price is much too high ($350) considering it's $199 brand new. It has new tires, cables, saddle, brake levers, and bar tape. I know the stock tires are junk but I'd have to replace the bars with risers or straight ones.
It would fit, though.
Last edited by arug; 03-13-23 at 06:43 AM.
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I wouldn't make stand over height THE metric for determining a suitable frame. It certainly is important but the overall measurements and geometry of the bike should also be taken into consideration. It is common to hear people talk about a bike needing to have 1-1/2" to 2" of clearance in stand over height for road bikes and even more for mountain bikes. This gets repeated as "gospel" all over the literature. Here's a blurb from Dick's Sporting Goods:
If you have the bike in front of you, stand over the middle of the middle of the top tube. There should be some clearance between you and the bike — typically, 2-4" for mountain bikes and 1-2" for road bikes.
If I evaluated many of the bikes I own based on that, none would meet the criteria. But all of them fit me just fine. I base my criteria on how the bike fits when I'm actually riding it. My goal isn't to spend much time straddling the top tube!
When I read posts where folks are looking for suggestions on improving bike fit I often wonder whether they are even beginning with the proper frame. In many instances they are not and now have to swap seat posts, stems and even handlebars in order to compensate. If you begin with a proper frame for your build, then any changes will likely be minor and the existing components can handle the small, incremental adjustments easily. And notice I said build, not just height, as not everyone is the same and some have short legs and long torsos while others are the exact opposite. Stand over is important, but so is the length of the top tube, effective length or otherwise.
The only way to really know is to jump on and ride. You can sort out the details from there.
If you have the bike in front of you, stand over the middle of the middle of the top tube. There should be some clearance between you and the bike — typically, 2-4" for mountain bikes and 1-2" for road bikes.
If I evaluated many of the bikes I own based on that, none would meet the criteria. But all of them fit me just fine. I base my criteria on how the bike fits when I'm actually riding it. My goal isn't to spend much time straddling the top tube!
When I read posts where folks are looking for suggestions on improving bike fit I often wonder whether they are even beginning with the proper frame. In many instances they are not and now have to swap seat posts, stems and even handlebars in order to compensate. If you begin with a proper frame for your build, then any changes will likely be minor and the existing components can handle the small, incremental adjustments easily. And notice I said build, not just height, as not everyone is the same and some have short legs and long torsos while others are the exact opposite. Stand over is important, but so is the length of the top tube, effective length or otherwise.
The only way to really know is to jump on and ride. You can sort out the details from there.
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Yeah I agree, top tube length - and slack vs steep angles change a lot of things about how a bike rides and feels so it's pretty hard to say what will fit you and be your perfect forever bike geo wise but that said... this frame on Hillarystone.com makes me cry a little each time I look at it. The top tube is just too short for me...but I find it so intriguing
Seems like the standover might work for you if the rest makes sense - I think it would be a fun, high quality whip - single speed or geared
And this is my bike - 74cm standover ...but 54.5cm top tube... Hope you find the right fit - good luck
Seems like the standover might work for you if the rest makes sense - I think it would be a fun, high quality whip - single speed or geared
And this is my bike - 74cm standover ...but 54.5cm top tube... Hope you find the right fit - good luck
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The standover metric is more of a legal safety issue than a good criterion for fit. I'm short and do not have any clearance above the top tube when standing over most of my bikes, especially track bikes which have high bottom brackets. I almost never stand over my bikes, but instead have only one foot on the ground with the other foot on a pedal and the bike tilted far enough so that my foot can reach the ground. I base fit on two basic measurements, 1) distance from pedals at bottom of stroke to top of saddle, and 2) distance from nose of saddle to location on handlebar where I place my hands. As long as the frame choice does not require an excessively short or long stem and allows my desired saddle to bar drop, then I'm good wrt fit.
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I found a Fuji Feather in my size in my region. Blue book value is no more than $263 but seller is asking $400. The prices on new have fallen from $799 to $699 at the Fuji website this week. (I've been checking obsessively). Is there any reason why the asking price would be inflated?
Last edited by arug; 03-14-23 at 12:33 PM.
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That explains why LBS were concerned with this one measurement. There is very little in my size, period, and nothing in this category of bikes in LBS so we didn't get to the point of effective tube top or other measurements with any of the four that I visited.
I found a Fuji Feather in my size in my region. Blue book value is no more than $263 but seller is asking $400. The prices on new have fallen from $799 to $699 at the Fuji website this week. (I've been checking obsessively). Is there any reason why the asking price would be inflated?
I found a Fuji Feather in my size in my region. Blue book value is no more than $263 but seller is asking $400. The prices on new have fallen from $799 to $699 at the Fuji website this week. (I've been checking obsessively). Is there any reason why the asking price would be inflated?
also just got thisemail from wabi
Oh yeah and your right there is a pretty limited selection in this market but other markets (like Japan) are ...still limited - NJS Export brings up 7 listings if you search under 74cm
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... of course you would have to drill for brakes if you got a Keirin frame and you wanted to use it as a single speed, as they are a particular category of track frames that aren't made with brake holes.
also bear in mind the standover measurement will change based on tire size.
also bear in mind the standover measurement will change based on tire size.
Last edited by Bianchi pc; 03-14-23 at 04:07 PM.
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Thanks. I did not receive any notification from them.
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You wouldn't be notified unless you had signed up to be notified when the Wabi Classic 42cm was back in stock like I did. Anyway, I'd suggest that you place an order now if you're truly interested as I imagine they will sell out quickly.
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Nice!
And a belated thanks to you TT.
my ride is so much smoother (and nicer) since I changed my tire pressure to what you recommended for my weight and I just changed my tires to the Grand Prix 5000s you also recommended -- my tires were old but I was waiting till I started getting more flats to switch to the new the tires.
the other day I hit a hard pothole and for I think the first time in my life both tires went flat similtaniusly which I took as a sign it was time... changed them last night and took them for the first ride today - 23mm front and 25 rear.
the weather was horrible but they preformed well - good traction in the wet and there is less of a lightbulb shape from the tires swelling out from the rims than there was before - so in theory should be more aero than the ones I had on before.
And a belated thanks to you TT.
my ride is so much smoother (and nicer) since I changed my tire pressure to what you recommended for my weight and I just changed my tires to the Grand Prix 5000s you also recommended -- my tires were old but I was waiting till I started getting more flats to switch to the new the tires.
the other day I hit a hard pothole and for I think the first time in my life both tires went flat similtaniusly which I took as a sign it was time... changed them last night and took them for the first ride today - 23mm front and 25 rear.
the weather was horrible but they preformed well - good traction in the wet and there is less of a lightbulb shape from the tires swelling out from the rims than there was before - so in theory should be more aero than the ones I had on before.
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Also I just did a google search for 'bicycle blue book bike forums' and the threads that came up concluded that they were far from accurate.
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I think this is true for most bikes, but multiple sources state that the Feather was available for $300-$400 on sale pre-pandemic. It is appropriate to offer a seller as much or more than what they probably paid new for a used bike that is not in high demand?
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I don't know, but I wouldn't bet on the seller coming down to $263 or less for a complete and intact Fuji Feather.
But if that's what your willing to spend on one you can always ask...
But if that's what your willing to spend on one you can always ask...
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The seller removed the rear brake. Also there is a ****** post on a very similar bike, "240_for_this_fuji_feather?" (I am not allowed to post links) and the answer seems to be a resounding "No."
#20
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I am a 5'3 1/2" 105 lb person. I'm looking for a 4130 single speed that will be agile, fun, light, and low maintenance. I'd like to have paroxysms of ecstasy from my ride to work if possible but I'm not sure if that's within the budget.
I've had my Specialized Hard Rock that is nearly 30% of my body weight and a real clunker, but still in great condition, for 23 years and am ready for the bike of my dreams. I will use it primarily for commuting. I put more miles on my bike than my car. I hardly ever shift and want to keep things simple but fairly high quality. As I am approaching 60 and at some point will start shrinking, I want a bike that will still fit me in 10 years. 20 years would be better. I prefer a more relaxed geometry.
I'm finding that the pickings are very slim for my size.
Here are some of the contenders:
Mercier Kilo TT (but maybe not the pro version, which is pushing the limit at 736 mm standover)
Fuji Feather (745 mm standover for 2021 version, 750 mm for current version, this is really too risky)
Wabi Classic 42 cm (if it's ever in stock again)
State 4130
Priority Ace
Dawes Streetfighter (like the relaxed geometry but will I have to replace many parts?)
Masi Uno (standover is 723 on the smallest so I have room to shrink)
Pure cycles original (local bike shop carries this one)
The only ones the locals can get for me are the Fuji and the Pure Cycles. They are willing to assemble and upgrade if I choose to order from BikesDirect. The only one I have tried is Pure Cycles and I'm pretty sure I can do better for the money. Anything else, I would have to order before trying. The pickings are slim to none on Craiglist and Facebook.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I want this to be my forever bike but I resent that the market doesn't have much recognition for people of my size.
Thanks in advance!
I've had my Specialized Hard Rock that is nearly 30% of my body weight and a real clunker, but still in great condition, for 23 years and am ready for the bike of my dreams. I will use it primarily for commuting. I put more miles on my bike than my car. I hardly ever shift and want to keep things simple but fairly high quality. As I am approaching 60 and at some point will start shrinking, I want a bike that will still fit me in 10 years. 20 years would be better. I prefer a more relaxed geometry.
I'm finding that the pickings are very slim for my size.
Here are some of the contenders:
Mercier Kilo TT (but maybe not the pro version, which is pushing the limit at 736 mm standover)
Fuji Feather (745 mm standover for 2021 version, 750 mm for current version, this is really too risky)
Wabi Classic 42 cm (if it's ever in stock again)
State 4130
Priority Ace
Dawes Streetfighter (like the relaxed geometry but will I have to replace many parts?)
Masi Uno (standover is 723 on the smallest so I have room to shrink)
Pure cycles original (local bike shop carries this one)
The only ones the locals can get for me are the Fuji and the Pure Cycles. They are willing to assemble and upgrade if I choose to order from BikesDirect. The only one I have tried is Pure Cycles and I'm pretty sure I can do better for the money. Anything else, I would have to order before trying. The pickings are slim to none on Craiglist and Facebook.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I want this to be my forever bike but I resent that the market doesn't have much recognition for people of my size.
Thanks in advance!
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I'm 5'2", 29" inseam and have a 42cm Wabi I got back in 2020. It's certainly a very nice bike. However, I find it very aggressive position-wise and almost too small. With all of the spacers under the stem, and the stem turned upwards at a 17d angle, I still have an almost 3" drop from my saddle to the (drop)bars. You say you're approaching 60. Depending on your flexibility (especially going into the next 10 years), it's just something to keep in mind. I can't assess your flexibility but I would be more inclined to say you might want to take the Wabi off your list of considerations.
I also decided against the Feather--too aggressive.
Right now I am very flexible and in great shape--I still feel like a little kid--but I can't assume that what works now will work in 10-20 years. But I do know now that I strongly prefer a more upright position. I also know that if I am totally in love with my bike I will use it more often.
Jamis Beatnik is relaxed, but it's hi-ten and the smallest size is a little too big for me. I think the State 4130 single speed 46cm might work but I keep reading issues about quality control.
Last edited by arug; 03-18-23 at 01:31 AM.
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For what it is - a beast - the Specialized Hardrock is one heck of a bike. It is truly a 30 year bike, not only because of it's ruggedness but also because it can be adapted to be different bikes over those years. Mine was a commuter, a trail bike, a touring bike, an (albeit heavy) road sport bike, a kid hauler, an ice bike, and a single speed town bike. Over the years it had aggressive MTB tires, 32mm slicks, studded tires, and hybrid tires. Fenders and rear rack were well accommodated; they came and went.
Point being, the Hardrock sets a pretty high bar for bike longevity, capable of morphing as needed as its owner's interests vary.
That's a pretty tall order for any bike. Now at 60 (and me at 62) you're looking at 20 years of significant change (which does not include legs shrinking by the way, but primarily the spinal column) both physical and in lifestyle. The bikes you're looking at are low end and highly specialized in nature. Which is fine, but I think not nearly the highly flexible platform provided by the Hardrock.
A very long winded way of suggesting you buy what makes you happy today. If it puts a smile on your face today, there's a good chance it will tomorrow. If/when that changes, you get the joy of shopping for another bike.
Standover height as a measure of appropriate frame size was marginally useful for average sized and average proportioned people purchasing horizontal top tube road racing bikes. It was most useful for bike shops because it got bikes out the door quickly. If standover height requires tippy toes, it takes one and only one instance of slamming the top tube against your naughty bits before you learn a different dismounting technique.
Perhaps the Dutch, with their step-through Stadsfiets, have standover figured out. I want one, but maybe I'll wait another 8 years until I'm 70.
Point being, the Hardrock sets a pretty high bar for bike longevity, capable of morphing as needed as its owner's interests vary.
That's a pretty tall order for any bike. Now at 60 (and me at 62) you're looking at 20 years of significant change (which does not include legs shrinking by the way, but primarily the spinal column) both physical and in lifestyle. The bikes you're looking at are low end and highly specialized in nature. Which is fine, but I think not nearly the highly flexible platform provided by the Hardrock.
A very long winded way of suggesting you buy what makes you happy today. If it puts a smile on your face today, there's a good chance it will tomorrow. If/when that changes, you get the joy of shopping for another bike.
Standover height as a measure of appropriate frame size was marginally useful for average sized and average proportioned people purchasing horizontal top tube road racing bikes. It was most useful for bike shops because it got bikes out the door quickly. If standover height requires tippy toes, it takes one and only one instance of slamming the top tube against your naughty bits before you learn a different dismounting technique.
Perhaps the Dutch, with their step-through Stadsfiets, have standover figured out. I want one, but maybe I'll wait another 8 years until I'm 70.
Last edited by downtube42; 03-18-23 at 02:37 AM.
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Yeah, it won't die. Aside from regular tune ups and replacing things as they broke or aged, I've only switched out the tires to smoother ones for the road. I briefly considered replacing the rock shox forks with light carbon ones but haven't done so yet because it would probably have an adverse effect on selling it in the future. I have a rack and dorky rear baskets, which I love. I can fit a lot of groceries in them. Or beer.
I want something very light, because there was a year at work when the elevator was out of order and a couple of times I had to carry my bike up and down 4 flights of stairs when I forgot my bike lock. Those moments are permanently etched in my brain. It's not the same as the typical 200-lb guys carrying their 20-lb bikes like they are twigs or something. I want the twig this time!
I want something very simple, because I'm not handy at all and I've spent a fortune on maintenance and upkeep. Less stuff on the bike means less stuff to fail. I never shift so it's pointless to pay for more than a single speed.
And finally, I want something that is sufficiently well-built to last a long time.
But it is painful to see that $600-$900 is considered entry level. My head and my salary are still stuck at pre-pandemic levels.
I want something very light, because there was a year at work when the elevator was out of order and a couple of times I had to carry my bike up and down 4 flights of stairs when I forgot my bike lock. Those moments are permanently etched in my brain. It's not the same as the typical 200-lb guys carrying their 20-lb bikes like they are twigs or something. I want the twig this time!
I want something very simple, because I'm not handy at all and I've spent a fortune on maintenance and upkeep. Less stuff on the bike means less stuff to fail. I never shift so it's pointless to pay for more than a single speed.
And finally, I want something that is sufficiently well-built to last a long time.
But it is painful to see that $600-$900 is considered entry level. My head and my salary are still stuck at pre-pandemic levels.
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Cool single speed up on eBay that might fit the bill for you.
Would obviously be lighter without the front rack or the comfy saddle - but I think it's a handsome bike as is.
The standover is almost a centemeter over your stated ideal but 25 or 28mm tires would bring it down if need be.
Food for thought at least.
Cheers
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That would be great if it were very light. It looks about the same weight as what I have now. Ideally I'd have something 18 lb or less, if it exists.