T.A. Cyclotourist chainstay clearance
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T.A. Cyclotourist chainstay clearance
I'm seriously coveting a cyclotourist crankset, but I'm trying to figure out if it will work on a frame I have with 135mm rear spacing. Chainline & chainring clearances obviously significant factors, but in estimating the appropriate bb spindle length, and anticipating possible chainstay clearance problems, I'm wondering if anybody could tell me how far inward of the bb spindle end the inner face of the crank arm typically lies. Q factor (the outer face of the crank) wouldn't bother me much, I'm more concerned about getting safely clear of those wider stays, without a ridiculous chainline.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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The T.A. Cyclotouriste always appealed to me too. I've recently put a set of the SunXCD Cyclotourise clone cranks on one of my bikes, and was a bit surprised at how wide the Q factor was. If you can't find a real T.A., this isn't a bad option, and I feel would certainly provide plenty of clearance at the chainstays.
Steve in Peoria
Steve in Peoria
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The TA cranks have no different clearance issues than any other crank. Why would it? It is just a matter of getting the right bottom bracket width.
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Here are measurements of the various TA spindles, from the TA catalog:
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I believe that the Stronglight/T.A. spindle ends were closer to JIS taper than to what is now ISO, in case you're thinking of getting a cartridge BB. Those are available in a lot of widths. As suggested previously, if anybody's chainrings are going to clear your chainstays and give you a good chainline with your cassette, there's no reason that a T.A. can't be made to as well.
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Using a 116.5mm, 2-chainwheel TA spindle, I get a total clearance of 86.2mm between the inside ends of 170mm cranks arms.
FWIW, I measured using a digital caliper from the inside of the drive-side arm at the back of the pedal spindle to the seat tube, plus the diameter of the seat tube, plus the distance from seat tube to inside of non-ds arm: 29.26mm + 28.05mm (metric tubing) + 28.89mm = 86.20mm. There might be slight variation due to how far the crank arms are pressed onto the spindle combined measurement error.
FWIW, I measured using a digital caliper from the inside of the drive-side arm at the back of the pedal spindle to the seat tube, plus the diameter of the seat tube, plus the distance from seat tube to inside of non-ds arm: 29.26mm + 28.05mm (metric tubing) + 28.89mm = 86.20mm. There might be slight variation due to how far the crank arms are pressed onto the spindle combined measurement error.
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Just bought one of these on French eBay for €40 + shipping.
Just look for "pedalier" + "ta" or "ancien" and plenty will pop up for affordable prices.
Just look for "pedalier" + "ta" or "ancien" and plenty will pop up for affordable prices.
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Thanks to all of you for the very helpful info. I’ve taken the plunge buying a very clean looking set off eBay. I’ll figure out exact spindle length when it arrives - am anticipating some fudging to make it all work. In any any case I can’t imagine a more handsome, affordable crankset that will work as a sub compact for the touring/gravel workhorse I’m cooking up.
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Thanks to all of you for the very helpful info. I’ve taken the plunge buying a very clean looking set off eBay. I’ll figure out exact spindle length when it arrives - am anticipating some fudging to make it all work. In any any case I can’t imagine a more handsome, affordable crankset that will work as a sub compact for the touring/gravel workhorse I’m cooking up.
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I'm seriously coveting a cyclotourist crankset, but I'm trying to figure out if it will work on a frame I have with 135mm rear spacing. Chainline & chainring clearances obviously significant factors, but in estimating the appropriate bb spindle length, and anticipating possible chainstay clearance problems, I'm wondering if anybody could tell me how far inward of the bb spindle end the inner face of the crank arm typically lies. Q factor (the outer face of the crank) wouldn't bother me much, I'm more concerned about getting safely clear of those wider stays, without a ridiculous chainline.
Thanks.
Thanks.
It's a reasonable assumption (lots of experience on this forum and others) that those TA cranks with proper BB spindles and cups will clear the TA crankarm ends with at least 5 mm free space on each side, and it should be equal both sides. If the 135 mm bike has perhaps another 6 mm width, I think you probably have no problem.
This checking worked for me even with a road frame designed to clear 650b 42 mm tires, and achieving proper chainline for a 130 mm rear hub (same chainline as for a 120 mm or 126 mm, BTW).
Last edited by Road Fan; 03-21-18 at 11:06 AM. Reason: make my meaning intelligible!!
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