spclark 

Background: rode bikes a lot as a kid (Schwinn, Raleigh) then bought a Motobecane Grand Record on Easter Sunday back in 1972. Many miles ridden where I lived back then, more after a move then the bike path got put in across the street. Brought the Moto along when we moved to new home a decade ago, didn't ride it at all in that ten years until I got inspired earlier this summer.

I work p/t six blocks from home, seems silly to drive back and forth. Hilly enough to make me hesitate walking; going to's fine as I'm fresh and it's usually cool. Going FROM's the big turn off as I can log seven miles on my feet in a day's shift so those hills are a turn-off even though it's just 3/4 mile walk home.

(I had a pic uploaded then learned I have to have ten posts before I can do that... oh well.)

So I bought a 2022 Kona Dew+ at LBS for commuting, recreation in April. Turns out I can still ride one of these things!

That inspired me to get the Motobecane ready to ride once again. I spent the last three weeks taking it apart for thorough cleaning, replaced all the ball bearings everywhere they live, had a new stem expander made up to replace the rusty steel one I couldn't bust loose fifteen years ago when I did this routine the last time.

Where I'm really interested to learn more is about what I need to look at when I start shopping for updating to clincher rims. This Moto came with Mavic 36-hole tubular rims, Record hubs & 5-speed sprocket, Record derailleur. I'd like to explore what the potential is for putting clinchers on this bike without having to change much of anything else. Cartridge bearings ought to be easier to maintain than the ball & cup hubs I have now and clinchers seem to be what's commonplace now with tubulars more of a specialty.

All replies & comments most welcome!

obrentharris 

The important thing to keep in mind when looking at new wheels for the Motobecane is that your rear axle spacing from face of locknut to face of locknut is 120mm. Most modern road bikes are 130mm. Also your motobecane takes a freewheel while the modern bikes take cassettes. The wheels you are looking for are still available. You might want to ask for brand suggestions in the "Classics and Vintage" forum here at Bike Forums. There is an active "ISO and for trade" thread in the stickys at Classics and Vintage. There is a good chance that you could post a trade request in that thread and find someone who would like to trade wheels with you, maybe even someone within driving distance. C&V is a very active forum with a lot of members.

Your local bike shop could also probably order a set of the correct wheels for you.
Brent

Wildwood 

Did you say early '70s Schwinn & Raleigh?
And into your 8th decade?
Welcome.
Several good places on Bike Forums for oldies.
You'll find 'em. If you stay.


Actually '80s more my preference

Before latest modifications. Wrenching can be fun, too.

spclark 

Thanks Brent, that's all helpful.

I'm still learning the lingo, just started with a cassette bike so freewheel's more my comfort level. Do cassettes allow coasting? I'd expect the Kona I bought bears a cassette in back yet it allows coasting like the MB's freewheel.

I'm new here so plenty of time yet to explore the "ISO..." side path in C&V.

Thanks for your input. I'm forever grateful for the advice and comments I get from folks more experienced than I can claim on the forums I'm inclined to bother with.

Yep!
That too, yep!
Thanks!
Nice finding this Forum, appreciate the input from its members!
I'm staying!

This is a comfortable place. Hopefully iin time I may be able to 'pay back' what others have kindly provided on my behalf.

Nice collection of rides you have there too WW!.

For the time being I'm happy with the two I now have, they're enough to serve my modest needs and certainly enough to keep be busy with what maintenance issues they'll need in service.

VegasTriker

Yes, cassettes work the same as a freewheel so when you stop pedaling, the cranks are not pulled on by the chain. I'm not sure what the spacing is for the rear wheel. I owned a 1973 Motobecane Le Champion for decades. I finally gave it away because the narrow high pressure tires and a case of carpal tunnel syndrome (cyclists palsy) made the bike way too uncomfortable to ride. Remember it has French threads so any threaded part with the exception of the freewheel will need the same thread. The least expensive upgrade to the wheels would be to switch out the rims. It is possible to line up the new 27" rim with the old, switch the spokes, and have a bike shop true the wheel. You can still get 5 speed freewheels as they are used on some cheap bikes. Buying vintage NOS parts can be really expensive. They go for a premium. I'm not sure of the brake reach so switching to a more modern 700C wheel may not be possible if the brakes can't be set to contact the rim.

There is nothing wrong with the Record hubs if you maintained the bike when you used it in the past. Just check the bearing races. If they are not pitted or scored, I'd stay with that hub. When I gave away my Le Champion it was all original. However when I built it at the bike shop I worked in I used Phil Wood hubs and custom wheels instead of the ones that came with the bike.

Classtime 

Depending on your budget: place a wanted to buy post on the C&V forum for nice 120 Campy Record Hubs and have your shop build a wheelset with DT Competitions and HPlus-Son rims, or build them yourself, or search CL for a second hand set of 700c clinchers. Real easy to saw off 5mm from the rear axle and remove a spacer.

big john

You could have a pair of rims laced onto your current hubs.
DT Swiss 535 700c Rim Black 36-H 622 x 19 ETRTO 7630024324184 | eBay

spclark 

Races are in perfect shape, no rust or pitting; I last rebuilt them maybe 2008 or so, no riding after 2013. I just cleaned & re-lubed every new bearing on the bike, lacing new rims onto those hubs'd be my first choice for new clinchers if I have to stick with just one pair of wheels.

Thanks for the insight about cassettes serving as freewheels too. I think my new Kona has a cassette, there are channels barely visible on the outer rim under the smallest cog on the hub.

So it seems! Thanks for that link. Here's a couple I found a few minutes ago, maybe closer to home:

https://www.randombikeparts.com/prod...rims-black-new

https://www.randombikeparts.com/coll...5c-black-new-1

So these things are out there, I just need to do some looking about. Thanks all!

Was wondering if the length of an axle could stand cutting down to fit dropouts! Thanks for that!

VegasTriker

Cutting the axle is probably a bad idea for two reasons. You may bung up the threads and make the axle unusable. While most rear wheels may have some spacers included to get the spacing correct for using quick releases if you cut an axle designed for 134 mm to 128 mm, there may not be enough axle beyond the end of the cassette to still work with the quick release.