Soody

How can I remove a pitted cup that is flush with the hub shell?

Kontact 

You probably cannot. On some it can be done with a punch from the opposite side of the hub.

Do you have a replacement available? If not, what is the point?

FBinNY 

There's almost always a pocket behind the race. If so, removal only takes a bit of creative thinking.

Find a disc, ie. a dime with an OD larger than the race ID, yet small enough to fit into the pocket.

File 2 sides to make a racetrack oval, so it'll fit through the hole. Slide it in and let it flop behind the race spanning the hole.

Now punch it out from the opposite side.

OR

IF there's in fact a bit of room, but not a big pocket, to get behind the race, buy a toggle bolt wall anchor. Slide it in and let it expand behind the race, then drive it out.

maddog34

look again.. look at the surface of the cup that the balls ride on.. look at that area at the left side of the cup, near the shadow... note the pitted groove?

yep, that cup needs replaced... badly.

maddog34

aluminum has a far quicker expansion ratio than steel... HEAT the hub with a Heat gun( a blow dryer on high might suffice) then drive the cup out with a punch and large heavy hammer... i use a 2 lb. Body/Drilling hammer. Make certain the Hub is on a softer surface, but solidly backed(Wood works well!).. otherwise your hammering force gets changed into entire wheel/hub motion.

the real trick is getting the fresh Cup located squarely to the hub's Axis...Drive only on the upper lip of the cup or you may damage the fresh cup! Using a brass drift is also advised, but will not completely prevent damage to any seating surface contacted..... Careful depth measurement will help once the cup is mostly in place... manufacturers would use a properly shaped installation tool that sets depth from the lip of the hub....

Note: the TONE of your impacts will change once the cup reaches the "fully Seated"point.

the Aluminum hub WILL BE DAMAGED by any contact while installing the fresh cup... Be Aware, Be Careful,and Take your time.
If you get frustrated, set your tools down and walk away for a few minutes.....

Soody

yeah i've done it with a punch a few times. Pretty sure I do have a replacement. I have a lot of wheels to scavange parts from. This one is a nice tricolour hub with a good rim, good spokes, so i want to save it.

Soody

Thank you these are great ideas. Will investigate

Crankycrank

Another trick is to get a circlip slightly larger than the I.D. of the race's axle hole and compress and install in the gap. You can then use a drift or small socket to drive it out with the overlap of the circlip. If you are lucky enough to find a new race, before installing put it in the freezer for an hour and pour boiling water over the hub where the race fits. Expansion/Contraction thing helps the race slide in easier.

maddog34

AKA:"A SWEAT FIT" since the rapid temp. change during install causes condensation to collect on the part that warms up from a cold temperature... i use a toaster oven to heat the hub, 200-250* is good.. use leather gloves.... don't tell your wife about this... M/C engine cases leave a distinct petrochemical odor when heated in the Stove's Oven.... Guess who gets told to clean the oven.

SJX426 

HF had this tool set that I used to overhaul the bearings in an air wrench. Couldn't find it on a search


The ends are split into four sections that expand when the screw is turned. Then hammer out.

davidad

If that is a shimano hub you are wasting time trying to remove the race. I have done it, but there is no replacement part from shimano. They did not want the race replaceable.
To my limited knowledge Campi was the only cup and cone manufacturer who had a replaceable inner race and made the parts.

gearbasher

I bought a cheap "blind bearing" puller like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/KELEN-Bearing...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I used it to remove cups from Campy hubs. As stated previously, heat the shell first and a couple shots with the puller and they pop right out.