Stix Zadinia

Hello all,

I'm wondering what the best road cassette is to get (53-39 crank and all other things being equal)- for mostly just flat terrain?

11-25
11-26
11-28
11-32
(in either 10 or 11 speed)

I really have no idea what to get, I'm guessing perhaps an 11-25 gives a smoother shifting?
Would a 32 cog on the 53 ring combination (big-big) overlap into the shifts from the small crank, or do you miss more relaxed shifts on the 53 ring with an 11-25?
Also, are there some significant weight changes in between the different cassettes?



Thanks much for your help

NathanC

If it's mostly flat, can you get away with an 11-23?

11-32 is very wide.

LesterOfPuppets

I'd go 12-25 or 12-27. 11t cogs suck.

Stix Zadinia

Why?


I guess, but it's not available in the setup I'm considering.

LesterOfPuppets

Cuz I'm too slow for 53x11.

Actually, I think my favorite flatland cassette for pairing with a 53/39 would be Campagnolo Centaur [h=3]14-23t (14,15,16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23)[/h]

Dean V

12-25. You won't need the 11 for flat terrain and you get a 16t cog which is much more useful.

OldTryGuy

12-23 with 39/53 works well on my Propel at age 63.

Silvercivic27

What kind of average speed are we talkin'?

ursle

How long are the crank arms?

Why not a compact 44-50 then an 11-23, pretty much get you anywhere, less weight also

Personally I love the 18t, hate not having it.

mr645

I have been using 11-28 here in South Florida, 100% flat except for bridges over highways and the Intercoastal. It may seem wide, but with this cassette I never need the small chainring. Compact up front and 25 tooth in back is plenty for climbing these bridges and the 11 is great for flying down the other side. The big front and 28 rear works but there is some chain rubbing so I really never use it.

I wonder why no one makes a single ring front for riders in flat parts of the country. I think perhaps a 50front and 11/25 or 11/28 or even one of the new 11 speed set ups would be great for many riders and the single front chainring would be lower in cost and cheaper without the physical small ring and associated cables and shifter.

merlinextraligh

But you also don't need the 25, and an 11-23 gets you the 16.

Actually, no one can answer this question for the OP. It depends on a bunch of stuff, your intended use, how strong you are, your preferred cadence.

For example, if you don't race, and aren't riding somewhere with long steep descents, you don't need an 11.

But if you do race, and you prefer to sprint at a relatively low cadence (100 rpm or so), there will be times you'd want an 11, particularly for a downhill, down wind finish.

Conversely, if you're not a strong climber, even in relatively flat terrain you might want the 25 for the occassional bridge, or small hill, particularly if you're doing those into a steep headwind.

wphamilton

^ (He's a racer) Let me say as a non-racer, non-hill-bomber he's right. My latest choice was an 11-25 based on whim (it's not all that critical). 8-speed but the same principles apply. Mostly flat rides but some hills of course. I never use the 11 except in the small ring, which is not the best practice anyway. To be honest, the 12 isn't all that necessary either. I just wouldn't make the 11 cog a requirement unless you have a specific need for it.

nhluhr

*Intracoastal. Intercoastal would be the Atlantic ocean.

roadwarrior

21-19-18-17-16-15-14-13-12-11

53-39.

Most are one steps because on flatter terrain I find two steps on the top end keeps me "between gears' so to speak.

10 speeds is plenty for me.

If I go to a location with more hills, 23-21-19-18-17-16-15-14-13-12

merlinextraligh

That bridge has even more vertical ( got to clear ocean going vessels that can be quite tall) but the average grade is pretty shallow. More crosswind issues though.

nhluhr

cvall91

Like others have said, it really depends on your fitness. I'm using a 12-26(27?) that came with my bike and it works just fine until I can get an 11-23. I wouldn't say I'm just a recreational cyclist so I prefer the smaller cogs. There have been a handful of times though that I would've liked to have an 11 cog over 12. Some group rides can surge to 35+ and sometimes a leadout before a sprint, I would've liked to have that 11 cog available for use but it's not something that's holding back my riding.

cyclezen

53-39 ?....
forget the 11
here
https://www.cambriabike.com/Shimano-U...lver-1223T.asp

Stix Zadinia

Why is this? Is shifting quality not the same?


The 172.5 crank arm length was suggested to me personally by the shop owner. I'm new to road bikes (coming from a MTB) so I don't really know much details about my speed, etc. Btw I consider myself to be fit (nothing spectacular, but ok I guess).

The LBS owner also said I'd do better (well, my knees would) with a compact crankset. Is this true?



Thanks again everyone for your input!

dudemanppl

12-21, only choice.

merlinextraligh

your bike will not shift as smoothly with 32 tooth cog, as it will with a 28, or smaller. In fact an 11-32 is beyond spec for a regular cage rear derailleur.

More importantly, the 11-32 gives you big gaps between gears. If you need the 32 for the low gear that's ok. But if you don't need the low gear, most people prefer smaller jumps between gears.






Depends. If you need a gear lower than 39/28 to easily spin up your toughest climb, then yes. If 39/28 is a low enough gear for you, going to a compact crank is not going to change anything with regard to your knees.

Here's a tool, that may help you wrap your head around some of this:


https://www.gear-calculator.com/#

merlinextraligh

I have an 11-21 on my disc wheel for TT's.

For just riding around, I prefer an 11-23.


The reason being is that you can stay in the big ring more with the 11-23. With the 11-21, unless you want to completely cross chain, your lowest gear in the big ring is 53/19. With the 11-23, that becomes 53/21.

Those two teeth may be the difference between staying in the big ring into a strong headwind, or up a bridge,and shifting to the small ring.

Conversely, all you're giving up is the 18 tooth cog on the 11-21, which isn't a big deal ( and if you need the precise ratio of the 18, it's virtually duplicated by 39/13 on the 11-23)

big chainring 

I'm a flatlander. I ride 45/52 with a 14-22 five speed freewheel. I could use a 13 now and then but really don't like riding that fast anyway.
As long as I have a 52/16, 88" gear, I'm good.

MDfive21

whatever gets you a 1 tooth differential from 13 to 19.

VA_Esquire

I run a 42/54 with a 11-23......The Hampton Roads is quite flat.