WNCGoater

You are absolutely correct. Must have had a senior moment there. And I just replaced a chain a month ago! I count the links of the original and shorten the new chain to match. THEN that little master link is put in to splice it all together. You will need the chain break tool to do that.

Sorry for passing on bad info, good catch Retro Grouch.

VegasTriker

You are making this far too complicated. The picture you showed is a chain breaker that will work on any standard bike chain from 5 to 10 speed. It will be a bit more difficult to press out the pin on a 9 speed chain where the pin ends have been mushroomed but I have used that exact tool on chains from 8 to 10 speeds. Buy the SRAM chain you list. It will work on any bike with a 9 speed cluster in the rear. Hold it next to your existing chain and match the length. It will not have stretched enough to make this inaccurate as a way to measure chain length. Or count the links in your existing chain and push the pin out to match the number of links. I can't believe the bike shop told you that you should change the chain every year and a half. Unless your commute is really long, you should not be putting that many miles on the bike. I would only change the chain after thousands of miles unless the shifting got squirrely. You can probably get away with using the existing cassette unless it thousands of miles on it. If the new chain skips on some gears (assuming you have adjusted the rear derailleur correctly) then you should also change the cassette.

BTW, this is a classic example of why it pays to learn simple bike mechanics. The 10 pound labor charge for removing and replacing a cassette is a good example. If you have done it once, it should not take more than 5 minutes.

rachel120

Not yet, but I'm slowly teaching it to swear. 😉

On a serious note I have found that my phone autocorrects to words I use commonly, even if I spelled the word I'm using right. For example if I swype "car" my phone nearly always substitutes "cat". I can't type what my phone says when I swype "duck", but it took 6 months for that. Typing one letter at a time reduces the amount of autocorrects but does not eliminate them.

SylvainG

I have that same exact chain breaker but if that is a picture of what you exactly have, it is missing the screw that holds the chain against the breaker's grooves. I have a 9 speeds too and have no problem breaking a link with it.

VegasTriker

Nope, it is not missing a part. Chain breakers come both ways. The addition of the pin stop on the left side of the tool may be an improvement on the older design without it. If you look online most of the new ones have a stop but there ares still many that do not. I've had chain breakers like the one pictured for decades and none came with the stop but I probably haven't bought one in the last 5 years.

Desmond56

Thanks Shimagnolo
I can simply buy a link/ link pair.

Desmond56

Hi thanks for your help and support. As in my previous response I can get a good quality link. The shop said I wouldn't need to change the large central cogs (3 cogs on this). Surely that is as susceptible to wear as the cassette. What about the fiddly spring loaded governor assembly (don't know it's name)? Does this not wear out?

Also I never use the back nine gear cassette. I jump up and down using the larger gears. So with a damaged cog I can simply not use that one.

Desmond56

Hi. I have just got ...
2 PAIRS KMC 9 &10 Speed Missing Link Quick Link Chain Link Join Link

These are 4 half links and are identical. A chain has an outer link and an inner link. I was expecting 2 of the halves to be smaller (smaller pins that is).

What do I do? break the chain links so that I have 2 inner links and use one of the pairs? That means I don't need both of the links.

Maelochs

It means that if you want to repair the chain and lose one of the sides of one of links, you aren't standing on the side of the road feeling around in the grass and gravel in the dark cursing and trying to think who you could call for a ride who wouldn't tell anyone.

VegasTriker

The inner and outer links for the master link are identical. You have two master links. Pick any two of the four and join the ends of the chain. I told you that you are making this entirely too hard. Just be sure to count the links in both the old and new chain and make sure the new one matches the old one before you join the halves.

SylvainG

Yes, you need your chain breaker to break away the outer links so you're left with inner links on both ends of the chain. You then use the Missing Link to tie both inner ends together.

yadder

And what nobody say what need change 3 things together??? If you change onle chain your cassete and cranks don't work wit new chain! Because that details adapted for old chain. If u want something change you must change complete- cassette-chain-front cogs . It's rule or law good worked bicycle transmission.

Desmond56

Thanks yadder. I have examined the cassette in close detail. There is nothing wrong with it. As it says "If it's not broke, don't fix it".

The link removing tool works better on the NEW replacement links. Working out how to use the tool better. You don't need the smaller adjustment that is just screwed in. It leaves a hole for the old link to be pushed out of.

Thanks for all your help. Bike is working fine now.

dabac

Wear is quite dependent on the number of teeth being engaged.



Since the chainrings generally have more teeth engaging the chain, they wear slower.


On my commuter I get about two chains per casssette and 2-3 cassettes per crankset.



Sounds like you're talking about the derailer/derailleur.


Please, if you're gonna do - and ask about - bike mechanics, learn the words.

If not by heart, here's one place to look them up:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_bicycle_parts


It'll make it easier both for you and for anyone trying to answer.





Eventually, yes.
For a bike not used in mud or heavy dust, very eventually.
For road use, a derailer may well last the life of the bike.


Wearing out the pulley wheels is easier, particularly if you're a bit lax about replacing the chain.
But replacing them is no big drama.

Desmond56

Hi Thanks. I have a tendency to leave the back cogs on the smallest cog of the nine and jump through the gears using the 3 larger gears. I was thinking if the cassette was wearing down I could simply shift it to the next largest gear of nine) on the back wheel.

Also
What is the crankset?

Also how often do I need to change the derailer as this would also were down?

Falchoon

dabac

That is bad technique. Probably twice over.
Running the chain from smallest rear to smallest front has it running at a severe angle.
It increases wear, often causes noise and serves no functional purpose.
To dumb it down you're using the go-fastest rear gear together with the go-slowest front gear.
You can get the same overall gear ratio at another, mechanically healthier ratio.

I also rather wonder if you actually need the highest gear.
At a rough estimate, it'll take an average rider to 25+ mph.
Are you that fast regularly?

A better habit would be to leave the bike on the middle gear in the front, and then use the rears as you see fit.
Or shift the rear into the 4th-6th gear/sprocket range, leave it there and then follow your front shifting habit.
Bad idea.
If you truly shift the way you say, the chain is likely to be so stretched when the smallest sprocket begins to give you trouble that it won't engage well with the 2nd smallest.

I gave you a link. Start doing your homework.
Complete cranksets can often be had for less than replacement chainrings, making it a sensible option.

There's no set mileage, there's no set age.
Wear is determined by usage conditions.
You replace when worn enough to merit replacement.

The teeth on the derailer pulleys should have clearly flat tops.
If they've gotten pointy, it's time to replace.

The hinges and joints on a derailer used in muddy conditions can eventually get worn.
The derailer will then begin to sway and flop about a bit.
When it's floppy enough to touch the spokes, or to noticeably degrade shifting, it's time to replace.

Really, I think you have the wrong bike for your level of interest in riding technique.
You would be better served with a 3-5 gears internal gear bike.