Noob mistake buying first used road bike - Crack in fork
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Noob mistake buying first used road bike - Crack in fork
Hello! I just took the leap an bought my first used road bike, a shiny red 2010 Cannondale CAAD9 4. I did my best to look it over really closely before agreeing to the purchase but it wasn't until I got it home that I noticed a blemmish smaller than the size of a dime on the front of the fork. Doing the quarter test the tapping sound does change when I tap on the blemmish though I'm not sure if it's just paint or an actual crack. Assuming it is a crack, I would love to get a replacement fork ASAP so I can ride it. The thing is I'm really new to road bikes and the sizes and options for forks feels overwhelming.
Can anyone point me to a resource for understanding sizing for the fork that's on it so I know what size to order as a replacement? Or, is there a simple answer here, i.e. order this fork model number xxxxx and call it a day. I'd prefer a factory replacement, but am not totally opposed to an upgrade. I just want to ride the damn thing. I'm out $500 on the purchase. Hopefully will still be a reasonable deal after I get this fork issue sorted out.
Thank you for your help!
Can anyone point me to a resource for understanding sizing for the fork that's on it so I know what size to order as a replacement? Or, is there a simple answer here, i.e. order this fork model number xxxxx and call it a day. I'd prefer a factory replacement, but am not totally opposed to an upgrade. I just want to ride the damn thing. I'm out $500 on the purchase. Hopefully will still be a reasonable deal after I get this fork issue sorted out.
Thank you for your help!
#2
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,525
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4357 Post(s)
Liked 3,994 Times
in
2,665 Posts
Hello! I just took the leap an bought my first used road bike, a shiny red 2010 Cannondale CAAD9 4. I did my best to look it over really closely before agreeing to the purchase but it wasn't until I got it home that I noticed a blemmish smaller than the size of a dime on the front of the fork. Doing the quarter test the tapping sound does change when I tap on the blemmish though I'm not sure if it's just paint or an actual crack. Assuming it is a crack, I would love to get a replacement fork ASAP so I can ride it. The thing is I'm really new to road bikes and the sizes and options for forks feels overwhelming.
Can anyone point me to a resource for understanding sizing for the fork that's on it so I know what size to order as a replacement? Or, is there a simple answer here, i.e. order this fork model number xxxxx and call it a day. I'd prefer a factory replacement, but am not totally opposed to an upgrade. I just want to ride the damn thing. I'm out $500 on the purchase. Hopefully will still be a reasonable deal after I get this fork issue sorted out.
Thank you for your help!
Can anyone point me to a resource for understanding sizing for the fork that's on it so I know what size to order as a replacement? Or, is there a simple answer here, i.e. order this fork model number xxxxx and call it a day. I'd prefer a factory replacement, but am not totally opposed to an upgrade. I just want to ride the damn thing. I'm out $500 on the purchase. Hopefully will still be a reasonable deal after I get this fork issue sorted out.
Thank you for your help!
For a fork for a straight steerer tube bike, this is what I would recommend as it is a great fork: https://whiskyparts.co/forks/no7-rd-straight#/
#3
Full Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Palm Springs, California
Posts: 462
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 206 Post(s)
Liked 460 Times
in
176 Posts
Post a photo of the alleged crack. The fork is aluminum right? Those shouldn't crack very easily, if it's carbon, well that would make sense.
There are a bunch of Cannondale forks on Ebay for under $100. Measure your steer tube and find one that isn't shorter than the one you have. You can always cut them down or use spacers, but you can't make them longer.
There are a bunch of Cannondale forks on Ebay for under $100. Measure your steer tube and find one that isn't shorter than the one you have. You can always cut them down or use spacers, but you can't make them longer.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In the foothills of Los Angeles County
Posts: 25,296
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8281 Post(s)
Liked 9,053 Times
in
4,479 Posts
Post a photo of the alleged crack. The fork is aluminum right? Those shouldn't crack very easily, if it's carbon, well that would make sense.
There are a bunch of Cannondale forks on Ebay for under $100. Measure your steer tube and find one that isn't shorter than the one you have. You can always cut them down or use spacers, but you can't make them longer.
There are a bunch of Cannondale forks on Ebay for under $100. Measure your steer tube and find one that isn't shorter than the one you have. You can always cut them down or use spacers, but you can't make them longer.
A lot of aftermarket forks will work.
#5
Full Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Palm Springs, California
Posts: 462
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 206 Post(s)
Liked 460 Times
in
176 Posts
Here's one on Ebay, there's plenty others too.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cannnondale...oAAOSwzPlfzOaz
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In the foothills of Los Angeles County
Posts: 25,296
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8281 Post(s)
Liked 9,053 Times
in
4,479 Posts
Yes, they do. Also the bike is a 2010. Most of Cannondale's bikes were aluminum then.
Here's one on Ebay, there's plenty others too.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cannnondale...oAAOSwzPlfzOaz
Here's one on Ebay, there's plenty others too.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cannnondale...oAAOSwzPlfzOaz
Aluminum forks must be pretty rare these days?
This says the CAAD9 has a carbon bladed fork. Cannondale CAAD9 - BikeRadar
Last edited by big john; 12-08-20 at 11:36 PM.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Unfortunately, I can’t post pics yet because I’m new to the forum, but it looks like an impact type blemish. I’m going to strip the paint in a few minutes here and see what’s under there.
as far as the research I’ve done, it’s a carbon fork. I am not sure about the steer tube tho. Does the angle from the top of the fork down to where the wheel mounts matter much? The stock one has a nice forward bend to it. I see some aftermarket forks are straight and some have various degrees of bends. I don’t want to change the factory dimensions unless I have to. Thx,
as far as the research I’ve done, it’s a carbon fork. I am not sure about the steer tube tho. Does the angle from the top of the fork down to where the wheel mounts matter much? The stock one has a nice forward bend to it. I see some aftermarket forks are straight and some have various degrees of bends. I don’t want to change the factory dimensions unless I have to. Thx,
#8
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,614
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10964 Post(s)
Liked 7,491 Times
in
4,189 Posts
There will be a lot of replacement forks on the internet.
2 measurements you need in order to replicate the original fork are axle to crown(a-c) and rake.
a-c is the distance from the middle of the axle to the crown(where the headset is). Measure from the middle of the axle dropouts straight up. Just leave the QR skewer in for an easy reference as to where the middle of the dropout is.
Rake is the distance the dropout is in front of the head tube if an imaginary line were drawn along the head tube to the ground.
just Google this, its super easy to understand with a visual and they are all over Google.
Random guess- your a-c will be 367-375mm and your rake will be 43 or 45mm. These are common ranges for short reach caliper road bikes.
You may be able to get these numbers online as bike nerds measure this stuff and post about it.
Also, the fork may have the measurements on it. They may be in a sticker on the steerer tube, which fits inside then frame's headtube. I would check that first as its simple and exact. Its requires loosening a few bolts.
Replacements can cost $75-400, depending on what you want.
Ritchey and Columbus are reputable brands and have forks in the $200ish range. There are then generic forks that are priced well and could work great.
A few quick examples
https://www.amazon.com/1-125-Carbon-...52849253&psc=1
https://www.nashbar.com/ritchey-comp...0aAvaREALw_wcB
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...IaAoPvEALw_wcB
2 measurements you need in order to replicate the original fork are axle to crown(a-c) and rake.
a-c is the distance from the middle of the axle to the crown(where the headset is). Measure from the middle of the axle dropouts straight up. Just leave the QR skewer in for an easy reference as to where the middle of the dropout is.
Rake is the distance the dropout is in front of the head tube if an imaginary line were drawn along the head tube to the ground.
just Google this, its super easy to understand with a visual and they are all over Google.
Random guess- your a-c will be 367-375mm and your rake will be 43 or 45mm. These are common ranges for short reach caliper road bikes.
You may be able to get these numbers online as bike nerds measure this stuff and post about it.
Also, the fork may have the measurements on it. They may be in a sticker on the steerer tube, which fits inside then frame's headtube. I would check that first as its simple and exact. Its requires loosening a few bolts.
Replacements can cost $75-400, depending on what you want.
Ritchey and Columbus are reputable brands and have forks in the $200ish range. There are then generic forks that are priced well and could work great.
A few quick examples
https://www.amazon.com/1-125-Carbon-...52849253&psc=1
https://www.nashbar.com/ritchey-comp...0aAvaREALw_wcB
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...IaAoPvEALw_wcB
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
That is great info, thank you! I'm learning a ton as quickly as I can and this is helpful.
Good news - I sanded the paint off the area and there does not appear to be any damage to the carbon. I feel pretty lucky. Bummer I had to ruin such a nice finish but definitely worth the piece of mind and it saved me a few hundred bucks.
I'll post pics once I surpass the min posting threshold and you guys can see what I was talking about and maybe flame me for over reacting. I appreciate everyones help tho!
Good news - I sanded the paint off the area and there does not appear to be any damage to the carbon. I feel pretty lucky. Bummer I had to ruin such a nice finish but definitely worth the piece of mind and it saved me a few hundred bucks.
I'll post pics once I surpass the min posting threshold and you guys can see what I was talking about and maybe flame me for over reacting. I appreciate everyones help tho!
Likes For Iwr:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 781
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 479 Post(s)
Liked 277 Times
in
156 Posts
Now we get to see your painting skills too ;-)
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Henrico, Virginia
Posts: 166
Bikes: 1978 Jack Taylor "Tour of Britain", 2010 Cannondale CAAD9-4, 2013, Cannondale Supersix Evo Red Racing, 1969 Jack Taylor Ladies "Tourist" (wife's), 2010 Specialized Dolce Sport (wife's)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
I have a 2010 CAAD 9-4. The entire fork is carbon - blades and steerer.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,520
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 354 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20810 Post(s)
Liked 9,456 Times
in
4,672 Posts
Just curious, but did you check both sides of the fork when you did the tap test? The change in tone could have been attributed to differences in thickness and/or layup as the fork transitioned from one section to the adjacent.
Likes For WhyFi:
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I actually did. Again with being new and all I wanted a control group for my tap test so tested both sides. There was a distinct change in sound when I went over the blemish. The pain is pretty thick and I now attribute the slight change in sound to the areas where the paint was lifting off the carbon.
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Nope. Even here you won't get flamed for worrying about a cracked fork, investigating options, sanding, discovering... Now, if this story had gone the other way - "I think my fork's cracked. Meh, gonna ride it anyway." Yeah - put on the flame suit.
Now we get to see your painting skills too ;-)
Now we get to see your painting skills too ;-)