ksryder

I always squirt frame saver in steel frames because it's cheap and I have a can so it can't hurt, but I always wonder if it actually does anything. It's like taking vitamins--how do you prove that it prevented something?

If someone wants to fund a study I'd be happy to do an experiment where I compare a frame with and without frame saver after riding them on gravel throughout a Kansas winter. Maybe I'll weld the bikes together so they get the exact same amount of mileage and conditions. I'll start the gofundme posthaste.

Champ340

Last question sorry. Do you keep the water bottle bolts and other bolts in the frame when you spray the frame saver?

J.Higgins 

To be honest, I doubt that it matters. I suppose if someone felt the urge to add copious amounts of frame treatment then having all of the holes plugged would be good for keeping all of it inside the frame while you roll it around for coverage. I like to swish it around inside the frame, then prop it up in a fashion that will allow as much of it as possible to drain out.

Champ340

Is it ok to get it in the frame where the seatpost goes in? Eg will it stop the seatpost going in? Also is it ok to go on the bottom bracket threads? Thanks so much for you help. Product is on its way.

J.Higgins 

It truly doesnt matter where it goes, and in my humble opinion, getting it into the most-inaccessible crooks and crannys is what you should be trying to do anyway. Any amount of film inside the seat tube would be inconsequential to seatpost fitment, but you can fashion a "swab" out of a coat hanger and a piece of rag to clean out the seat tube. My method is to clean out the seatpost and then coat inside the tube with a grease-laden rag. I have made my own steel rod with a needle-eye on one end in which a cotton rag can be attached. I'll turn the frame upside down over a trash can, and hose out the seat tube with WD40, and let it drip into the can, and use the "swab" to clean out the seat tube, and recoat the insides of the tube with fresh grease. I also perform the same procedure to a lesser degree on the head tube.

HillRider

Yes, the rustproofer film won't interfere with installing the seatpost, the post will just push it out of the way. Same for the BB threads. And, yes, I remove all of the water bottle cage, rack mount, etc. bolts before treating the frame and use those holes to squirt the stuff into along with the tube ends and fork and stay vent holes.

After the rustproofing has been completed and dried, you can clean off exterior overspray and leakage with kerosene. It will remove the overspray and won't damage the paint.

Champ340

Brilliant thanks for the reply. I like the idea of the swab. I'll do the same. I'll be using a carbon seatpost so grease is better than carbon paste in your opinion?

Champ340

Onice again thanks alot. Would Muc-Off Bio degreaser work to remove any over spray from the frame?

HillRider

Never tried it since kerosene works so well and all you need is to dampen a rag or paper towel with it. Give Muc-Off it a try and let us know.

J.Higgins 

As long as you dont weigh 400 pounds, I think the regular grease would be fine, but if you have the paste, it cant hurt. My rule of thumb is that if I'm using carbon components on a steel frame, paste isnt necessary, but carbon-to-carbon its a must. Torqueing it properly is always the key to success with any carbon component anyway.

J.Higgins 

Kero works great, but I cant stand the smell for too long, so I use WD40, which ironically has as strong an odor as kero. Both work well, so I guess its nice to have a choice? Mineral spirits also work fine.

HillRider

Work outside. and let it evaporate after cleaning. BTW, WD-40 is just mineral spirits with a bit of added oil so, if it's OK, just get a small can of OMS (odorless mineral spirits) which is pretty much the same functionally as kerosene but smells less.