Rotor BSA30 w Hollowgram crank not spinning freely
05-16-21, 03:40 PM
#1
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Rotor BSA30 w Hollowgram crank not spinning freely
I have a frame with BSA68 bottom bracket, and tried to install a Hollowgram Si crankset, using the Cannondale 119mm spindle and Rotor BSA30 bottom brackets.
I have used 6mm spacer on the NDS, and no spacer on the DS (just a thin rubber spacer, ~0.5mm). The chainline is fine, and the crankset is centered. However, it either has a lot of resistance when fully tightened - so much that it can't be ridden-, or it spins freely when moderately tightened but is wonky when riding/ putting weight on it (makes a click-clack noise once a turn, and it feels like the spindle is loose inside the BB).
I have also tried a wave washer, but it would lock up the crank similar to when it's fully tightened.
Is the axle length too short? Or could it be that the bearings are seized? The lockring is pressed against the outside of the BB, but is that different than if there were a spacer?
I've read people had problems with the rotor BSA30 cups, and mine were also hard to get it initially (they were actually 30% off, but new). After i removed them and reinstalled them again they threaded in smoothly though. The spindle was also tough to install first (had to cool the spindle down and hammer it in), but now it goes in easier.
Unfortunately the BB has cartridges inside so i can't see if there is sth. wrong with the bearings.
I appreciate any help : ) This is my first bike build and was a fun project, but based on some short test rides the geometry is too slack for my taste. So i plan to put it up for sale and want to make sure that everything runs smoothly.
Here are some pictures:
view of drive side, 13mm of spindle showing
extracted crank w NDS spacers (2+4mm)
Axle mount 18mm deep until thread
drive side with crank bolt, 18mm from BB outside
I have used 6mm spacer on the NDS, and no spacer on the DS (just a thin rubber spacer, ~0.5mm). The chainline is fine, and the crankset is centered. However, it either has a lot of resistance when fully tightened - so much that it can't be ridden-, or it spins freely when moderately tightened but is wonky when riding/ putting weight on it (makes a click-clack noise once a turn, and it feels like the spindle is loose inside the BB).
I have also tried a wave washer, but it would lock up the crank similar to when it's fully tightened.
Is the axle length too short? Or could it be that the bearings are seized? The lockring is pressed against the outside of the BB, but is that different than if there were a spacer?
I've read people had problems with the rotor BSA30 cups, and mine were also hard to get it initially (they were actually 30% off, but new). After i removed them and reinstalled them again they threaded in smoothly though. The spindle was also tough to install first (had to cool the spindle down and hammer it in), but now it goes in easier.
Unfortunately the BB has cartridges inside so i can't see if there is sth. wrong with the bearings.
I appreciate any help : ) This is my first bike build and was a fun project, but based on some short test rides the geometry is too slack for my taste. So i plan to put it up for sale and want to make sure that everything runs smoothly.
Here are some pictures:
view of drive side, 13mm of spindle showing
extracted crank w NDS spacers (2+4mm)
Axle mount 18mm deep until thread
drive side with crank bolt, 18mm from BB outside
05-16-21, 09:51 PM
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Might need to face the BB shell.
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05-17-21, 01:46 AM
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thanks! i have not thought about that. I was aware of facing in the context of eliminating creaking, but it did not occur to me that a new frame could be that much off that it is unrideable (it's a ritchey P-650b btw).
So no obvious error in my setup itself?
Alternatively i was thinking of ordering a wheels manufacturing BSA30 BB, or even an xt crankset & 24mm BSA BB, with the hope that the tolerances are higher. But that would not necessarily solve the problem if its due to the BB shell.
So no obvious error in my setup itself?
Alternatively i was thinking of ordering a wheels manufacturing BSA30 BB, or even an xt crankset & 24mm BSA BB, with the hope that the tolerances are higher. But that would not necessarily solve the problem if its due to the BB shell.
05-17-21, 03:10 AM
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It won't be the BB or crank spindle, it'll be the BB shell.
05-17-21, 04:02 AM
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The 6mm non-drive spacer and the 0.5mm drive side rubber washer caught my attention as things to be swapped out where you make small changes and retest.
i don’t know enough about the BB30 standard but have a question. Is the Cannondale 30mm Hollowgram axle thought to be cross compatible with the Rotor BSA BB?
Also doing a 30mm crank axle on a traditional 68mm English threaded bottom bracket is a cool idea. I am thing of installing a Cannondale Hollowgram BB30 crank into a PF46 frame that I made my own road triple for.
i don’t know enough about the BB30 standard but have a question. Is the Cannondale 30mm Hollowgram axle thought to be cross compatible with the Rotor BSA BB?
Also doing a 30mm crank axle on a traditional 68mm English threaded bottom bracket is a cool idea. I am thing of installing a Cannondale Hollowgram BB30 crank into a PF46 frame that I made my own road triple for.
