Miyata 310, good bike?
03-05-19, 03:02 PM
#27
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"My only true wisdom is in knowing I have none" -Socrates
"My only true wisdom is in knowing I have none" -Socrates
03-05-19, 03:18 PM
#28
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03-07-19, 08:35 PM
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Okay, now for photos (we all can thank the kind plum tree for holding this bike for me, it has no kickstand)
Far away, not so bad
Up close, different story
Okay, what is this stuff? And why?
This says suntour Vx, don't know if that is good or bad
Anything I need to know before I start?
Far away, not so bad
Up close, different story
Okay, what is this stuff? And why?
This says suntour Vx, don't know if that is good or bad
Anything I need to know before I start?
03-07-19, 08:53 PM
#31
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Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
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03-07-19, 10:39 PM
#32
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I know some folks like their patina, but I would change these out.
These are the kind of timely, insider tips that attract new enthusiasts.
These are the kind of timely, insider tips that attract new enthusiasts.
03-08-19, 12:52 AM
#33
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Miyata originally built rifle and shotgun barrels, and manufactured their own tubing, in house. Who knew gun barrel technology would make the best bike frames?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miyata#History
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miyata#History
03-08-19, 01:20 PM
#34
Senior Member
Miyata originally built rifle and shotgun barrels, and manufactured their own tubing, in house. Who knew gun barrel technology would make the best bike frames?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miyata#History
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miyata#History
06-30-19, 07:09 PM
#35
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07-03-19, 09:13 PM
#37
Senior Member
a good bike...
Hi,
I think your Miyata is just fine. it will look better when you clean everything completely and learn some bicycle mechanics. Bicycle Co-ops often have repair classes for not much money. I ended up with a FREE' '85 610.
Aluminum foil works great for cleaning up aluminum. You can even polish aluminum parts with it. Scrunch it into a ball, and use it like sandpaper.
I think your Miyata is just fine. it will look better when you clean everything completely and learn some bicycle mechanics. Bicycle Co-ops often have repair classes for not much money. I ended up with a FREE' '85 610.
Aluminum foil works great for cleaning up aluminum. You can even polish aluminum parts with it. Scrunch it into a ball, and use it like sandpaper.
03-13-21, 09:00 PM
#39
Senior Member
It's been many years since the OP first posted. I wonder what the final outcome for that bike was? Don't know if it was ever mentioned or not but did anyone ever get the model year? Just wonderin' ! I saw that one reply referred to the 310 as a "sport tourer" but the 1985 catalog puts the 310 in the "semi-pro series" 
. To me, that means more like a racing road bike and less like a touring bike. IMHO, a touring bike would have more powerful brakes, a "granny" gear and perhaps a rear wheel with 40 spokes (perhaps other features too ).
Nevertheless, that 310 could have received a bit more (OK, a lot more
) TLC than it seemed to receive. I can't remember even thinking about painting rims but if I did, i'm pretty sure that the tires would have come off first 
.
. To me, that means more like a racing road bike and less like a touring bike. IMHO, a touring bike would have more powerful brakes, a "granny" gear and perhaps a rear wheel with 40 spokes (perhaps other features too ). Nevertheless, that 310 could have received a bit more (OK, a lot more
) TLC than it seemed to receive. I can't remember even thinking about painting rims but if I did, i'm pretty sure that the tires would have come off first .
Likes For sovende:
03-13-21, 09:06 PM
#40
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It's been many years since the OP first posted. I wonder what the final outcome for that bike was? Don't know if it was ever mentioned or not but did anyone ever get the model year? Just wonderin' ! I saw that one reply referred to the 310 as a "sport tourer" but the 1985 catalog puts the 310 in the "semi-pro series" . To me, that means more like a racing road bike and less like a touring bike. IMHO, a touring bike would have more powerful brakes, a "granny" gear and perhaps a rear wheel with 40 spokes (perhaps other features too ).
Nevertheless, that 310 could have received a bit more (OK, a lot more) TLC than it seemed to receive. I can't remember even thinking about painting rims but if I did, i'm pretty sure that the tires would have come off first .
. To me, that means more like a racing road bike and less like a touring bike. IMHO, a touring bike would have more powerful brakes, a "granny" gear and perhaps a rear wheel with 40 spokes (perhaps other features too ).Nevertheless, that 310 could have received a bit more (OK, a lot more
) TLC than it seemed to receive. I can't remember even thinking about painting rims but if I did, i'm pretty sure that the tires would have come off first .Yeah, it's a weird spot in the line up, not quite a racer but definitely not a sport tourer. I have an '85 with Golden Arrow and its a wonderful ride.
03-13-21, 10:44 PM
#41
Junior Member
My '86 Australian spec 310 as I bought it, completely original with full Shimano 105 1050. It is almost finished being restored to it's former glory.
03-14-21, 09:23 AM
#42
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I've still got my 310. I've had it for 36 years now and it still gets around 300 miles a year while rotating with my other bikes. I've made a couple changes to accommodate my aging frame, like a Brooks saddle, taller stem, and wider bars.
1984 Miyata 310
1984 Miyata 310
03-14-21, 09:30 AM
#43
Senior Member
We're all looking forward to seeing the finished product! Just curious, what specifications are different for a bike marketed in Australia? The “as purchased” photo shows aero brake levers. Was that stock in 1986?
Last edited by sovende; 03-14-21 at 09:42 AM.
03-14-21, 10:02 AM
#44
Senior Member
It's been many years since the OP first posted. I wonder what the final outcome for that bike was? Don't know if it was ever mentioned or not but did anyone ever get the model year? Just wonderin' ! I saw that one reply referred to the 310 as a "sport tourer" but the 1985 catalog puts the 310 in the "semi-pro series" . To me, that means more like a racing road bike and less like a touring bike. IMHO, a touring bike would have more powerful brakes, a "granny" gear and perhaps a rear wheel with 40 spokes (perhaps other features too ).
Nevertheless, that 310 could have received a bit more (OK, a lot more) TLC than it seemed to receive. I can't remember even thinking about painting rims but if I did, i'm pretty sure that the tires would have come off first .
. To me, that means more like a racing road bike and less like a touring bike. IMHO, a touring bike would have more powerful brakes, a "granny" gear and perhaps a rear wheel with 40 spokes (perhaps other features too ).Nevertheless, that 310 could have received a bit more (OK, a lot more
) TLC than it seemed to receive. I can't remember even thinking about painting rims but if I did, i'm pretty sure that the tires would have come off first .Re-reading the replies, I did see that this bike was given a permanent "time out" in the OP's garage. Very sad as many folks here would have loved to rehab that bike
. I would have, that's for sure 
.
03-14-21, 01:47 PM
#45
Junior Member
Last edited by AUPedla; 03-14-21 at 01:51 PM.
03-14-21, 06:12 PM
#46
Senior Member
The frame serial number starts with an 'O', so I assume it was made in '86 for sale in '87. Differences I can find are downtube shifters on the side not top, dual bidon mounts, full 105, 'black' rims, there are probably some others I have missed. Interestingly my 310 had 'no brand' aero brake levers whereas they were BR-1050 non-aero in the AU spec. I found the picture below of an original AU spec bike. My rebuild is going to have gum hoods rather than black and black seat rather than white, so a mix of the AU and US colourway.
). I can imagine long rides in the “outback” might leave a rider a bit parched 
. RE: the “no name” aero brake levers, perhaps the former owner swapped out the OEM non-aero 105s? Can you get gum rubber hoods for aero ever sets? IDK?I’m pretty sure you are going to end up with a fine looking (and performing) bike and as I said before, looking forward to seeing the final product!
03-14-21, 06:25 PM
#47
Junior Member
How do you know that it was sold in 1987? What is the second character in the date code (the fortnight made)? The catalog references by “raganddbone” does not show a Three Ten in their lineup for 1987 so I’m going to say it’s definitely a 1986 model. I do see that the catalog shows top mount shifters in 1986. No idea why the Australian market would not be equipped with the same 🤔. I can kinda see why one just might need an extra water bottle mount (had to look up “bidon”, not common usage in my circle ). I can imagine long rides in the “outback” might leave a rider a bit parched . RE: the “no name” aero brake levers, perhaps the former owner swapped out the OEM non-aero 105s? Can you get gum rubber hoods for aero ever sets? IDK?
I’m pretty sure you are going to end up with a fine looking (and performing) bike and as I said before, looking forward to seeing the final product!
). I can imagine long rides in the “outback” might leave a rider a bit parched . RE: the “no name” aero brake levers, perhaps the former owner swapped out the OEM non-aero 105s? Can you get gum rubber hoods for aero ever sets? IDK?I’m pretty sure you are going to end up with a fine looking (and performing) bike and as I said before, looking forward to seeing the final product!
I'm fitting BR-1050 that are non-aero brake levers with gum hoods.
Last edited by AUPedla; 03-14-21 at 06:29 PM.
03-14-21, 06:55 PM
#48
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The color and decal scheme looks like it would have been an 85 in Canada, but I guess in Australia it's a bit different? Would have had symmetric shifters too in 85. Not that I would argue with the serial number.
03-14-21, 07:01 PM
#49
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Nice to see this thread come back. I bought the 25" 1981 and two days later spotted a '84-'85 in 19 1/2" in the same burgundy color and offered $80. He grabbed it and so now I have a his 'n here set. The serial number is '85 but the color stopped in '84.
03-14-21, 07:07 PM
#50
Senior Member
It’s hard to say for sure what the path of a frame might be from when it leaves the frame shop to when final assembly of a bike is complete. I have a Schwinn bike with a frame serial # indicating it was made in 1987 but the head badge shows final assembly (or close to it) occurring in early 1988 AND it being sold as a 1988 model.
RE: the shifters, are the bosses clamp mounted or welded to the sides of the down tube? If clamp mounted, is there a diamond shaped mounting guide welded to the underside of the down tube? Just so you know, none of my questions have any real significance since your bike “is what it is”, I’m just curious
. Plus I enjoy “chatting” with folks from Australia .
RE: the shifters, are the bosses clamp mounted or welded to the sides of the down tube? If clamp mounted, is there a diamond shaped mounting guide welded to the underside of the down tube? Just so you know, none of my questions have any real significance since your bike “is what it is”, I’m just curious
. Plus I enjoy “chatting” with folks from Australia .