Repairing/restoring a Schwinn World Tourist
08-15-13, 08:40 PM
#1
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Repairing/restoring a Schwinn World Tourist
If this is the wrong place I'm sorry. I've read the stickies, the Sheldon Brown website (I think I may have read almost all of it by now... Maybe!) and have a copy of Idiot's Guide to Bikes that I've read most of.
This week I was given a World Tourist Schwinn. Well, actually... I've been looking for a basket or a trailer I could use for my small dog on craigslist and freecycle. A woman emailed me back saying she had a bike basket I could have.. but I had to take the bike too. I figured it was a Wallmart (probably pink) bike.. but the price was right (free)..so I went to check it out. A basket is a basket, you know? And I figured I could either give the bike to my sister or donate it to goodwill on my way home.
The bike was instead a World Tourist (with rack and basket) 10 speed. I personally love this style of bike and have wanted one for a long time. I think everything but the seat is original. All cables and shifters work. The freewheel..freewheels...which is fun because it is backwards. It looks like all the rust is surface rust. The stamp on it is G0985 or very close; the bike is still filthy so hard to read, but it is nearly as old as me. Yeah, I think I want to keep it.
My main reason for posting here is that up until this point in time I've generally not done more then repair a flat, oil up bits, tighten a brake or wash the bike. I know I've seen an older thread on this kind of bike on this forum but I can't find it now, of course.
Basically, this bike has the freewheel in the pedals so that you can shift while coasting. The chain never stops moving like it does on a regular bike. I'd really like to fix this up and ride it. How will this bike be different mechanically from the regular set up I've been reading about?
I've read that nail polish is used to fix up scratches. There is a big chip out on the lower tube. Should I prime it before polishing it? Would it be worth the trouble of putting a clear coat of something anti-rust over the bike frame?
The chain is a bit stiff. If I get it running smoothly again is it safe? If it needs to be replaced what size is right? I've been looking at chains and tires and tubes... I know I need 27 inch tires (or 700) but the chain measurements elude me.
My wrenches are all adjustable. This kind of bike takes metric ones, yes? I need to know what to buy size wise.
And finally, yes, I will be taking it to my LBS after I finish cleaning it up and fixing what I can before it is ridden just to be sure its all good.
Here are a few cell phone pictures of it in my messy kitchen. (my camera has dead batteries, sorry) Hope these work!
This week I was given a World Tourist Schwinn. Well, actually... I've been looking for a basket or a trailer I could use for my small dog on craigslist and freecycle. A woman emailed me back saying she had a bike basket I could have.. but I had to take the bike too. I figured it was a Wallmart (probably pink) bike.. but the price was right (free)..so I went to check it out. A basket is a basket, you know? And I figured I could either give the bike to my sister or donate it to goodwill on my way home.
The bike was instead a World Tourist (with rack and basket) 10 speed. I personally love this style of bike and have wanted one for a long time. I think everything but the seat is original. All cables and shifters work. The freewheel..freewheels...which is fun because it is backwards. It looks like all the rust is surface rust. The stamp on it is G0985 or very close; the bike is still filthy so hard to read, but it is nearly as old as me. Yeah, I think I want to keep it.
My main reason for posting here is that up until this point in time I've generally not done more then repair a flat, oil up bits, tighten a brake or wash the bike. I know I've seen an older thread on this kind of bike on this forum but I can't find it now, of course.
Basically, this bike has the freewheel in the pedals so that you can shift while coasting. The chain never stops moving like it does on a regular bike. I'd really like to fix this up and ride it. How will this bike be different mechanically from the regular set up I've been reading about?
I've read that nail polish is used to fix up scratches. There is a big chip out on the lower tube. Should I prime it before polishing it? Would it be worth the trouble of putting a clear coat of something anti-rust over the bike frame?
The chain is a bit stiff. If I get it running smoothly again is it safe? If it needs to be replaced what size is right? I've been looking at chains and tires and tubes... I know I need 27 inch tires (or 700) but the chain measurements elude me.
My wrenches are all adjustable. This kind of bike takes metric ones, yes? I need to know what to buy size wise.
And finally, yes, I will be taking it to my LBS after I finish cleaning it up and fixing what I can before it is ridden just to be sure its all good.
Here are a few cell phone pictures of it in my messy kitchen. (my camera has dead batteries, sorry) Hope these work!
08-16-13, 06:32 AM
#2
Mechanic/Tourist
Your bike has what is called a front-freewheeling system a short-lived attempt to address those folks who found it challenging to remember to pedal when they shift, combined with Shimano's first attempt at indexed shifting (Positron). It was a horrible idea, required non-standard derailleur and lever, shift wire (not cable) and of course the chainwheel system. Adjusting is the same as usual for the front derailleur. The rear is adjusted by putting the derailleur on the middle cog and using the single screw in the body to fine tune adjustment.
The chain on those systems needs to run smoothly. If it works OK once you lube it properly and it should be OK. If the bike has been ridden much and you replace the chain you may have to replace the cogs. You can replace with a standard freewheel, but will then need to pedal in order to shift, and you will also have a lag at times before both regular and front freewheel engage. You would have to replace with a freewheel that has the same spacing or replace the derailleur and lever as well.
I would suggest you try to keep everything as is if possible. Adjustment and maintenance of that bike is not a big challenge, and it should last a long time. Given the difficulties that come with replacement I strongly advise that you avoid use of the small cog in the rear.
The chain on those systems needs to run smoothly. If it works OK once you lube it properly and it should be OK. If the bike has been ridden much and you replace the chain you may have to replace the cogs. You can replace with a standard freewheel, but will then need to pedal in order to shift, and you will also have a lag at times before both regular and front freewheel engage. You would have to replace with a freewheel that has the same spacing or replace the derailleur and lever as well.
I would suggest you try to keep everything as is if possible. Adjustment and maintenance of that bike is not a big challenge, and it should last a long time. Given the difficulties that come with replacement I strongly advise that you avoid use of the small cog in the rear.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 08-16-13 at 10:14 AM.
08-16-13, 09:51 AM
#3
Banned
to get away from the Positron drive train will be a costly parts total ..
As a practical bike I'm a fan of Internal Gear rear Hubs ..
As a practical bike I'm a fan of Internal Gear rear Hubs ..
08-16-13, 12:57 PM
#4
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Thanks for the replies. cny-bikeman you just cleared up a few things for me, thanks. I've never heard of shift wire but I will be sure to make a note of it for when I do take it to a shop. Everything seems to work. Both of the derailleurs move as they should, the teeth are nice and square too. And I never use the little gear. One, I'm lazy and two, I don't live in a flat area. Still good to know though.
From what the woman said it wasn't ridden that much and has spent years in a garage. It's been sitting long enough for the tires to be utterly dry rotted through and through. I haven't had a chance to do more then squirt WD-40 on the chain and rusty bits yet but this weekend I hope to have time to take it apart, scrub it down/remove rust and see what is what.
I like to keep classic things as close to original as possible. And I'm on a budget. If I don't have to replace anything I'm not going to!
Feitsbob, I hope to stay with what it has on it. Although, I did briefly wonder if a fixed rear wheel gear with the front freewheel would be entertaining. The fact that I live around hills makes this very unlikely though.
From what the woman said it wasn't ridden that much and has spent years in a garage. It's been sitting long enough for the tires to be utterly dry rotted through and through. I haven't had a chance to do more then squirt WD-40 on the chain and rusty bits yet but this weekend I hope to have time to take it apart, scrub it down/remove rust and see what is what.
I like to keep classic things as close to original as possible. And I'm on a budget. If I don't have to replace anything I'm not going to!
Feitsbob, I hope to stay with what it has on it. Although, I did briefly wonder if a fixed rear wheel gear with the front freewheel would be entertaining. The fact that I live around hills makes this very unlikely though.
08-16-13, 02:03 PM
#5
Mechanic/Tourist
You need a proper chain lube for the chain, not WD-40. If it's a fair weather bike a "dry" lube will be less messy - brand is not that important, just get what the bike shop recommends (but not the most expensive). Be careful about taking it apart - "if it ain't broke...." Especially leave the shift wire alone - do not pull it out.
08-16-13, 07:39 PM
#6
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Oh, sorry if I was unclear. I WD-40'd it to loosen the wheel nuts and the rust on the chain and cogs. I'll be using something with the rather silly name of 'epic ride white lightening' to lube it. It claims it is a half wet/half dry lube for all weather. It's cheap and it works on my other bikes just fine.
For me taking it apart mostly means getting the wheels off and getting the seat off. I know my limitations, even more so with a type of bike that isn't the norm. I mostly want to clean and de-rust it. The shifters all work so I will not touch them more then just adjusting them, thanks for telling me about the wire though.
I have to ask though, if the shift wire is removed does it require a special tool or something? I will be taking it to my LBS and just in case the guy has never seen one of these I'd like to know what I'd be in for.
For me taking it apart mostly means getting the wheels off and getting the seat off. I know my limitations, even more so with a type of bike that isn't the norm. I mostly want to clean and de-rust it. The shifters all work so I will not touch them more then just adjusting them, thanks for telling me about the wire though.
I have to ask though, if the shift wire is removed does it require a special tool or something? I will be taking it to my LBS and just in case the guy has never seen one of these I'd like to know what I'd be in for.
08-16-13, 07:58 PM
#7
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The wire is rare and unusual = pricey. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SCHWINN-POSI...337#vi-content
If the wire breaks you can use any cheap old derailler as the front freewheel system often, but not exclusively, used the positron. You would probably need to change the shifter also. The freewheel, as mentioned, can be replaced with a "normal" one and it just ratchets in 2 locations and you lose the shift anytime ability. Here's what the crank ratchet looks like and an old Ross which used it, but not the positron. Notice positron starts with POS and we all know what that means!
If the wire breaks you can use any cheap old derailler as the front freewheel system often, but not exclusively, used the positron. You would probably need to change the shifter also. The freewheel, as mentioned, can be replaced with a "normal" one and it just ratchets in 2 locations and you lose the shift anytime ability. Here's what the crank ratchet looks like and an old Ross which used it, but not the positron. Notice positron starts with POS and we all know what that means!
08-17-13, 01:57 AM
#8
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Thanks dedhed! That's interesting looking.
And eeeeeeee to that price. If it ever breaks I'll just remember it was a free bike!
So far the chain is good and all the rust is surface rust. It's coming off with a copper pad and a plastic brillo.The seat post was well greased and slid right out. The inside of the frame is nice and rust free. And that's all for tonight, it's 4am and my cat has reminded about actually sleeping tonight.
And eeeeeeee to that price. If it ever breaks I'll just remember it was a free bike!
So far the chain is good and all the rust is surface rust. It's coming off with a copper pad and a plastic brillo.The seat post was well greased and slid right out. The inside of the frame is nice and rust free. And that's all for tonight, it's 4am and my cat has reminded about actually sleeping tonight.
08-17-13, 02:17 AM
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For your choices of a Schwinns to restore the World Tourist with front freewheeling Positron with a step through frame is a bad choice. One of the least valuable Schwinns restoration wise and about the hardest most difficult of all. I seriously recomend you get this bike functional if possible and sell it cheap. Then buy something else to restore nice project level Schwinns from the 50's,60's and 70's are realativley cheap.
08-17-13, 02:31 PM
#10
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Well, I'm not looking to sell it. I'm looking to ride it. I prefer step through frames as my choice in clothing makes them desirable. Skirts and all that don't do well on men's frames. I often find men's bikes a bit off for me proportion wise too. Legs feel short but the arms feel stretched.
I suppose I could give a man's bike to my man but he rides less then I do . And he has a bike, a road bike, doesn't like old Schwinn bikes and would prefer a hybrid anyways.
It's functional, that much I've learned. Needs tires, brake pads and new seat. And the paintwork, of course. I had to do a lot less then I thought I would.
All the older bikes on Craigslist here seem to be old mountain bikes or BMX stuff. Or what's left of a ten speed after a hipster pulls everything of it and paints it funny colors. And so it goes.
I suppose I could give a man's bike to my man but he rides less then I do . And he has a bike, a road bike, doesn't like old Schwinn bikes and would prefer a hybrid anyways.
It's functional, that much I've learned. Needs tires, brake pads and new seat. And the paintwork, of course. I had to do a lot less then I thought I would.
All the older bikes on Craigslist here seem to be old mountain bikes or BMX stuff. Or what's left of a ten speed after a hipster pulls everything of it and paints it funny colors. And so it goes.
08-18-13, 06:50 AM
#11
Mechanic/Tourist
To clarify, if any part of the Positron rear system breaks you have to either replace with the same item or replace derailleur, cable/housing and lever. No one part of the Positron system will work with any other system.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 08-18-13 at 07:03 AM.
08-18-13, 08:12 PM
#12
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Got you. I will not touch it. It did not even need adjusted. Shifts very nicely to all gears. (I got a kick out of watching it work while I had it upside down.)
Chain looks great after I finished with it today. And so does the rest of it for that matter. Derailleur is straight, even. Looks like Ebay has plenty of parts should I ever need them. Not that cheap but not less then something decent at the LBS. So there is that if/when something breaks. 40 bucks for a cable will smart though.
Light oil, OK. I've 3 in 1 oil and sewing machine oil on hand. Both of those are rather light. I think after this my repairs will be more cosmetic (the paint and chrome cleaning. I have polish that matches, wee!) and finding some cheap gumwall tires and a knockoff leather cruiser saddle on Ebay to complete the look.
And thanks again everyone. All of this is very helpful.
Chain looks great after I finished with it today. And so does the rest of it for that matter. Derailleur is straight, even. Looks like Ebay has plenty of parts should I ever need them. Not that cheap but not less then something decent at the LBS. So there is that if/when something breaks. 40 bucks for a cable will smart though.
Light oil, OK. I've 3 in 1 oil and sewing machine oil on hand. Both of those are rather light. I think after this my repairs will be more cosmetic (the paint and chrome cleaning. I have polish that matches, wee!) and finding some cheap gumwall tires and a knockoff leather cruiser saddle on Ebay to complete the look.
And thanks again everyone. All of this is very helpful.
08-18-13, 09:08 PM
#13
Mechanic/Tourist
I was referring to a spray lube of the type typically used for bikes as it should be able to travel down the entire shift wire fairly easily, but there are others available as well. The standard 3 in 1 formula was vegetable based and can gum up, so I would not recommend it for your bike.
08-18-13, 09:50 PM
#14
Still learning
there is an alternative cable, like some motorcycle/scooter cable for far less. Use google to find it.
08-18-13, 11:25 PM
#15
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Got ya cyn-bikeman. I've used 3in1 on cables for years when I last biked but they were regular cables. Looks like the first of many trips to the LBS is in order tomorrow.
Seriously oddjob2? That is great to know. Writing that down with the other stuff.
Seriously oddjob2? That is great to know. Writing that down with the other stuff.
09-01-13, 02:33 PM
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Does anyone know if Schwinn made a 21 speed World Tourist in the 70s/80s? Saw a listing for one but have never seen one with 21 speeds.
Last edited by MEMC; 09-01-13 at 02:46 PM.
09-01-13, 02:58 PM
#17
Senior Member
The World Tourist was a very low-end 10-speed at least through 1990.
09-01-13, 10:56 PM
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Heh, rad. A good word for an 80's bike! And when I picked it up it did have a zebra fur seat cover. That really made my day.
Right now I'm stripping off the painted on white and grey Schwinn tags. They are UGLY. I plan on repainting over the spots or finding tasteful decals of fall leaves. And clear coating bits with Dresden clear coat. It's a non-yellowing spray acrylic. It should work to stop rub.
Right now I'm stripping off the painted on white and grey Schwinn tags. They are UGLY. I plan on repainting over the spots or finding tasteful decals of fall leaves. And clear coating bits with Dresden clear coat. It's a non-yellowing spray acrylic. It should work to stop rub.
09-21-13, 10:18 PM
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Hello thread!
I finished with the paint and frame sanding/nail polish touch ups. I removed all the Schwinn tags and pinstripes with acetone. They all were pretty messed up anyways. I did paint around the lugs with shiny gold paint. The frame already had some on the lugs but it was pretty dull. It looks pretty good so far. I'm thinking about repainting the fenders another color. Perhaps if I can find a chain guard to fit I can paint it to match..
I've started on the wheels. I did the front hub today.
This was what was inside.
The metal bits are like new. The grease however...hard, sticky and gritty. I'm probably going to take the rear wheel to the LBS and have him remove the freewheel on it. It was extremely satisfying to scrub this clean, repack with new grease and then watch it spin for a good 5 minutes at a light push.
I know enough now to NOT take this freewheel apart. But can I soak it in acetone or something to sort of clean it out a bit? The actual bearings and cup/cones look good.. and the grease is still clear.
Oh, and just for myself.. these are all the links I've found pertaining to this bike.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...hwinn-Suburban -general info
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ing-chainwheel -general
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/shimano1982/pages/35.html catalog from 1982
https://biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?d=...em_id=BR-CT6MB - 'thick walled' BOSS type tool for rear freewheel
https://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-1741.html another tool lead. 'Bicycle Research CT-4'
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...l-rear-cluster - more infos/Tools
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...orld%20tourist - bottom bracket info
For Completeness, Sheldon Brown on freewheels. https://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
My kitchen/garage. I'm glad my guy isn't weird about this...
I finished with the paint and frame sanding/nail polish touch ups. I removed all the Schwinn tags and pinstripes with acetone. They all were pretty messed up anyways. I did paint around the lugs with shiny gold paint. The frame already had some on the lugs but it was pretty dull. It looks pretty good so far. I'm thinking about repainting the fenders another color. Perhaps if I can find a chain guard to fit I can paint it to match..
I've started on the wheels. I did the front hub today.
This was what was inside.
The metal bits are like new. The grease however...hard, sticky and gritty. I'm probably going to take the rear wheel to the LBS and have him remove the freewheel on it. It was extremely satisfying to scrub this clean, repack with new grease and then watch it spin for a good 5 minutes at a light push.
I know enough now to NOT take this freewheel apart. But can I soak it in acetone or something to sort of clean it out a bit? The actual bearings and cup/cones look good.. and the grease is still clear.
Oh, and just for myself.. these are all the links I've found pertaining to this bike.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...hwinn-Suburban -general info
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ing-chainwheel -general
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/shimano1982/pages/35.html catalog from 1982
https://biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?d=...em_id=BR-CT6MB - 'thick walled' BOSS type tool for rear freewheel
https://forums.bicycletutor.com/thread-1741.html another tool lead. 'Bicycle Research CT-4'
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...l-rear-cluster - more infos/Tools
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...orld%20tourist - bottom bracket info
For Completeness, Sheldon Brown on freewheels. https://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
My kitchen/garage. I'm glad my guy isn't weird about this...
Last edited by katsrevenge; 09-21-13 at 11:15 PM. Reason: adding a in progress picture.
06-27-19, 10:19 PM
#22
Old Bicycle Guy
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Ok, can someone answer me this please before I screw up my big lady. My crank has one big hex bolt and then on the outside is two small holes in what looks like gray plastic. The two small holes are to remove the gray plastic part around the hex bolt, right? Also that hex bolt is taken off backwards, right? This is for a man’s world traveler.
Thank you in advance for any help. ❤️🚴*♂️
Thank you in advance for any help. ❤️🚴*♂️
11-30-21, 01:45 PM
#23
Newbie
Glad to have found this thread (even if it's old) as I just picked up a women's World Tourist that looks in slightly worse condition than yours, katsrevenge. Will get into it as soon as I finish my two other projects. I think I'm able to post pictures now so will follow up soon with a few.
11-30-21, 02:02 PM
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While there is nothing wrong to post pics here. The Classic & Vintage subforum might be a better place. Lots of folks over there can give you all sorts of help.
John
John
Likes For 70sSanO:
12-01-21, 04:11 PM
#25
Full Member
Zombie thread brings back memories. My wife & I had a pair of these back in the early 80s. We loved them, rode them until 2003. They had the Shimano Front Freewheel system that let you shift while coasting - my wife loved that because she would always forget to shift down.
About 10 years ago I had a chance to pick up a mint pair for $150. Nostalgia kicked in and I got them. They were spotless, so I just did a teardown - cleaned and lubed everything, new tires, tubes, brakes. Sold the woman's right away, but hung onto the men's and rode it every now and then for old time's sake, until I finally sold it too. Kinda wish I kept it . . . .
About 10 years ago I had a chance to pick up a mint pair for $150. Nostalgia kicked in and I got them. They were spotless, so I just did a teardown - cleaned and lubed everything, new tires, tubes, brakes. Sold the woman's right away, but hung onto the men's and rode it every now and then for old time's sake, until I finally sold it too. Kinda wish I kept it . . . .
