Kinekt seatpost pre-load - how tight?
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Kinekt seatpost pre-load - how tight?
Hi folks,
I have a Kinekt 2.1 and I have the option of running it with an Orange spring (which is pretty stiff), or a Black spring but then I need to tighten the preload to 3-4 to make the seat not bounce around too much. What would you recommend? Is a preload of "3" too much already?
I have a Kinekt 2.1 and I have the option of running it with an Orange spring (which is pretty stiff), or a Black spring but then I need to tighten the preload to 3-4 to make the seat not bounce around too much. What would you recommend? Is a preload of "3" too much already?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,792
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5826 Post(s)
Liked 2,660 Times
in
1,478 Posts
I prefer setting preload for effect, rather than by the numbers. I like to preload using about 1/4 of the travel, so I have 3/4ths left and room for over travel on rebound.
You'll need a twist tie, pipe cleaner, or similar.
Set the preload at some logical starting place. Tie the twist tie at the base of the sliding part. Ride a few seconds on smooth pavement, then see how far up the tie has moved. Adjust preload accordingly.
Reset the tie, and leave the there for a number of rides. Ideally, it will get pushed almost to the top, meaning you're using the full travel range without bottoming out.
If you tend to bottom, use a stiffer elastomer, if not getting much travel, use a softer one.
You'll need a twist tie, pipe cleaner, or similar.
Set the preload at some logical starting place. Tie the twist tie at the base of the sliding part. Ride a few seconds on smooth pavement, then see how far up the tie has moved. Adjust preload accordingly.
Reset the tie, and leave the there for a number of rides. Ideally, it will get pushed almost to the top, meaning you're using the full travel range without bottoming out.
If you tend to bottom, use a stiffer elastomer, if not getting much travel, use a softer one.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Likes For FBinNY:
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I prefer setting preload for effect, rather than by the numbers. I like to preload using about 1/4 of the travel, so I have 3/4ths left and room for over travel on rebound.
You'll need a twist tie, pipe cleaner, or similar.
Set the preload at some logical starting place. Tie the twist tie at the base of the sliding part. Ride a few seconds on smooth pavement, then see how far up the tie has moved. Adjust preload accordingly.
Reset the tie, and leave the there for a number of rides. Ideally, it will get pushed almost to the top, meaning you're using the full travel range without bottoming out.
If you tend to bottom, use a stiffer elastomer, if not getting much travel, use a softer one.
You'll need a twist tie, pipe cleaner, or similar.
Set the preload at some logical starting place. Tie the twist tie at the base of the sliding part. Ride a few seconds on smooth pavement, then see how far up the tie has moved. Adjust preload accordingly.
Reset the tie, and leave the there for a number of rides. Ideally, it will get pushed almost to the top, meaning you're using the full travel range without bottoming out.
If you tend to bottom, use a stiffer elastomer, if not getting much travel, use a softer one.
Question - when you say having room for over travel on rebound, what do you mean?
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,792
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5826 Post(s)
Liked 2,660 Times
in
1,478 Posts
Imagine a scale of 0-10 with zero being fully compressed. You want the post to settle to about 8 under your weight. This way it can compress all the way to below one without bottoming out. OTOH, after a bump it will overshoot, so it can rebound to 9 without hitting the top, before settling back to 8.
Likes For FBinNY:
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,792
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5826 Post(s)
Liked 2,660 Times
in
1,478 Posts
The actual setting doesn't matter to the post. The key is to set it so you don't bottom out, or hit the top on rebound.
Banging into the end stops is what will kill the post fastest.
Banging into the end stops is what will kill the post fastest.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Likes For FBinNY:
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter