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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Addiction 2021.1

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Old 01-03-21, 12:36 PM
  #251  
ls01
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Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
Love Greta's shirt! HBD, BTW
How dare you!
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Old 01-03-21, 12:45 PM
  #252  
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Originally Posted by datlas
My rear shifting became quite sloppy during yesterday’s gritty ride. I cleaned/degreased drivetrain and relubed everything.

BUT

It’s still not shifting well and I have isolated the problem to the RD which is not swinging back well, and causing a severe case of slack-chain. The return spring on RD seems weak. See pic below. Suggestions?? I think I had this problem before and tried to tighten the circular return spring and it’s been several years, all I recall is it ended up not working and I got very frustrated.




Help!
If I remember correctly, there's an E clip on the back side of the "B" pivot. Should be a coil spring with the ends bent into 2 nubs that seat into holes.. take the clip off and inspect the spring,, make sure the nubs are still on it. Make sure the holes they sit in haven't sheered off. Or the "B" pivot could just need cleaning and grease.
Be careful after the clip is removed the spring is under tension and could come apart.
EDIT: Now that I look at the pic a little closer. The attachment bolt and surrounding area looks a bit beat up. You didn't drop it recently did you?

Last edited by ls01; 01-03-21 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 01-03-21, 12:45 PM
  #253  
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Originally Posted by bampilot06
While your at it that frame looks like it could be the problem, Probably best if you replace it.
"Yoo nidd noo bai-eek."
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Old 01-03-21, 12:50 PM
  #254  
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I just sold a Cycleops fluid trainer . 2 kinetics to go.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:12 PM
  #255  
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Originally Posted by ls01
If I remember correctly, there's an E clip on the back side of the "B" pivot. Should be a coil spring with the ends bent into 2 nubs that seat into holes.. take the clip off and inspect the spring,, make sure the nubs are still on it. Make sure the holes they sit in haven't sheered off. Or the "B" pivot could just need cleaning and grease.
Be careful after the clip is removed the spring is under tension and could come apart.
EDIT: Now that I look at the pic a little closer. The attachment bolt and surrounding area looks a bit beat up. You didn't drop it recently did you?
This! I’m betting broken-off “nub,” favorite failure mode of coil springs.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:14 PM
  #256  
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Originally Posted by ls01
If I remember correctly, there's an E clip on the back side of the "B" pivot. Should be a coil spring with the ends bent into 2 nubs that seat into holes.. take the clip off and inspect the spring,, make sure the nubs are still on it. Make sure the holes they sit in haven't sheered off. Or the "B" pivot could just need cleaning and grease.
Be careful after the clip is removed the spring is under tension and could come apart.
EDIT: Now that I look at the pic a little closer. The attachment bolt and surrounding area looks a bit beat up. You didn't drop it recently did you?
No recent drop. Will try to lube this better and check chain life, as well as ensure spring nubs in position. Will avoid taking spring out as that’s what I messed up several years ago, but if problem persists I may have to.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:21 PM
  #257  
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My watch died.
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
People here don't get it.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:23 PM
  #258  
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Originally Posted by datlas
Help!
I have nothing to add other than to observe that that chain looks too loose.
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
People here don't get it.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:24 PM
  #259  
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Originally Posted by datlas
No recent drop. Will try to lube this better and check chain life, as well as ensure spring nubs in position. Will avoid taking spring out as that’s what I messed up several years ago, but if problem persists I may have to.
Not sending it across the room is 90% of the battle.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:26 PM
  #260  
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
My watch died.
Needs a new battery?
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Originally Posted by rjones28
Addiction is all about class.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:29 PM
  #261  
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Originally Posted by Trsnrtr
Looks to me like an opportunity to throw away that cable eating drivetrain.
It has crossed my mind....

I have considered getting a whole new groupset for the Habanero, but an hoping to keep current version going for another 1-2 years and plan to get the next-generation Shimano when it’s out.
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Addiction is all about class.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:29 PM
  #262  
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Speaking of RDs, I've been running a Dura-Ace 7800 rear derailleur and downtube shifters all year on the Trek, but I'm wanting some lower gearing - at least 32T in the back, preferably 34T. I know that some people have run larger than 28T in the back on those derailleurs, but I'm already exceeding the capacity as it is with the short cage. Long cage 7800 is prohibitively expensive and wont' give me the max cog I want anyways.

Part of me is really wanting an XTR RD-MD980, partly because that smoked grey finish is so cool, and also because it's a rapid rise model which adds some interesting character.

However, that stupid voice of reason is telling me to spend less than half the money on a brand new 105 RD-5701-GS. I'd probably be happier with the 105 but compared to the XTR it's just so uncool.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:30 PM
  #263  
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Originally Posted by datlas
Thanks. I just lubed the pivot point and it’s slightly better already. Will work on it. Also possible chain is getting old, my vernier calipers are digital with a solar cell, so a rainy day like today renders it useless!
If I was down at the shop, I'd take it off the bike and throw in the the parts washer. At home, I'd degrease with soapy water/solvent and re-lube. Or hit it with some 1-Step.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:31 PM
  #264  
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Originally Posted by Trsnrtr
Looks to me like an opportunity to throw away that cable eating drivetrain.
I concur.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:34 PM
  #265  
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
My watch died.
Upgrade opportunity.
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Old 01-03-21, 01:40 PM
  #266  
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
My watch died.
Too bad you didn't ask Santa for one. Oops, nevermind.
#OnAShortLeashWithSantaToo
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Old 01-03-21, 01:58 PM
  #267  
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Originally Posted by eja_ bottecchia
Sure way to jinx the new year...thanks a lot.
Think positive. What’s his name is gone so we’re way ahead of the game.
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Old 01-03-21, 02:02 PM
  #268  
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Got out for a good ride. While I did not traverse and frozen lakes, I did ride on a mostly frozen creek. It was all very Instagramable.








Last edited by WhyFi; 01-03-21 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 01-03-21, 02:03 PM
  #269  
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Originally Posted by abshipp
Speaking of RDs, I've been running a Dura-Ace 7800 rear derailleur and downtube shifters all year on the Trek, but I'm wanting some lower gearing - at least 32T in the back, preferably 34T. I know that some people have run larger than 28T in the back on those derailleurs, but I'm already exceeding the capacity as it is with the short cage. Long cage 7800 is prohibitively expensive and wont' give me the max cog I want anyways.

Part of me is really wanting an XTR RD-MD980, partly because that smoked grey finish is so cool, and also because it's a rapid rise model which adds some interesting character.

However, that stupid voice of reason is telling me to spend less than half the money on a brand new 105 RD-5701-GS. I'd probably be happier with the 105 but compared to the XTR it's just so uncool.
Get the one you really, really want.

#yolo
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Old 01-03-21, 02:16 PM
  #270  
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Originally Posted by rjones28
Get the one you really, really want.

#yolo
Well I'll have to wait a little longer. Someone bought the only good one on eBay

#snoozing
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Old 01-03-21, 02:17 PM
  #271  
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Originally Posted by abshipp
Speaking of RDs, I've been running a Dura-Ace 7800 rear derailleur and downtube shifters all year on the Trek, but I'm wanting some lower gearing - at least 32T in the back, preferably 34T. I know that some people have run larger than 28T in the back on those derailleurs, but I'm already exceeding the capacity as it is with the short cage. Long cage 7800 is prohibitively expensive and wont' give me the max cog I want anyways.

Part of me is really wanting an XTR RD-MD980, partly because that smoked grey finish is so cool, and also because it's a rapid rise model which adds some interesting character.

However, that stupid voice of reason is telling me to spend less than half the money on a brand new 105 RD-5701-GS. I'd probably be happier with the 105 but compared to the XTR it's just so uncool.
There are times when looking at the relative cost is pretty sensible and there are times when looking at the absolute cost differential is much better. It's like when people try to rag on expensive socks, "are your $15 socks 10 times better than my $1.50 socks?" Pfft - I don't know if they're 10 times better, but they're certainly $13.50 better." In this instance, I think it's more sensible for you to look at the absolute rather than relative price difference - in the grand scheme of things, it's not that much, 'specially when you factor life expectancy and usage.
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Old 01-03-21, 02:31 PM
  #272  
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Originally Posted by abshipp
Speaking of RDs, I've been running a Dura-Ace 7800 rear derailleur and downtube shifters all year on the Trek, but I'm wanting some lower gearing - at least 32T in the back, preferably 34T. I know that some people have run larger than 28T in the back on those derailleurs, but I'm already exceeding the capacity as it is with the short cage. Long cage 7800 is prohibitively expensive and wont' give me the max cog I want anyways.

Part of me is really wanting an XTR RD-MD980, partly because that smoked grey finish is so cool, and also because it's a rapid rise model which adds some interesting character.

However, that stupid voice of reason is telling me to spend less than half the money on a brand new 105 RD-5701-GS. I'd probably be happier with the 105 but compared to the XTR it's just so uncool.
Consider a Wolf Tooth or similar RD hanger extender?
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Old 01-03-21, 02:57 PM
  #273  
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Originally Posted by rjones28
Upgrade opportunity.
I believe I have one that's been collecting dust that someone gave me many months ago. Still sad to see the old TimeX retired.
Originally Posted by WhyFi
I did ride on a mostly frozen creek.
^^^
Things I have never had a desire to do.

wut

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People here don't get it.
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Old 01-03-21, 03:08 PM
  #274  
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Originally Posted by Velo Vol
I'm guessing that it's about leaving his feet and driving down his shoulders at the end. Eh. Totally meaningless game, anyway. Well, other than Jefferson breaking the rookie receiving yardage mark.
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Old 01-03-21, 03:17 PM
  #275  
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
There are times when looking at the relative cost is pretty sensible and there are times when looking at the absolute cost differential is much better. It's like when people try to rag on expensive socks, "are your $15 socks 10 times better than my $1.50 socks?" Pfft - I don't know if they're 10 times better, but they're certainly $13.50 better." In this instance, I think it's more sensible for you to look at the absolute rather than relative price difference - in the grand scheme of things, it's not that much, 'specially when you factor life expectancy and usage.
Not a bad way of looking at things. I know that I'll only think about the purchase price at the POS, once I've got it in-hand the pain will already have passed.

I am trying to get away from buying everything used though, which complicates things. There's no way I'm paying the NOS prices for one of those XTRs, if I'm spending that much money I'll just get 11s Campagnolo

Originally Posted by datlas
Consider a Wolf Tooth or similar RD hanger extender?
I may or may not already be exceeding the total capacity of the RD by 5 teeth

I do need to pick up another goat link for the MTB at some point though
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